All posts by The Mouth

washed rind and blue cheeses food tour Paris

Recently Devoured: Tastes from our Tours

While our stops and samples change with every tour (you’re not guaranteed to taste what’s pictured below), there’s always something delicious and photo-worthy. Here are some recently snapped tastes to share from our food & wine tours in Paris.
IMG_5599Goat cheese, while it’s still in season, Taste of the Left Bank

Charcuterie ParisBasque charcuterie, Taste of the Marais 

P1230621Seasonal mushrooms, Taste of the Latin Quarter

La Derniere Goutte ParisDiscovering French wine, Taste of Saint-Germain

IMG_7520Pâtes de fruit, Taste of the Marais 

Premiere Pression ProvenceSmall production AOC olive oils, Taste of the Left Bank

Patrick Roger chocolates in ParisChocolate boxes, Taste of Saint-Germain

IMG_7497Terrine and pâté en croute, Taste of the Marais 

 

maraisfoodtourchocolatefromjacquesgeninChocolate box, Taste of the Marais 

CharcuterieCharcuterie, Taste of the Left Bank 

IMG_3767Rustic apple tart, Taste of Saint-Germain

Cooked shrimpBite sized shrimp, Taste of the Latin Quarter

French cheese & wineThe big spread, French Cheese & Wine Workshop

Traditional loaves from PoilaneTraditional loaves, Taste of Saint-Germain


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La Fine Mousse opens a restaurant pairing beer & food

La Fine Mousse Restaurant (75011) Kate Robinson visited La Fine Mousse’s new restaurant, which aims to “bring beer to the dinner table and prove that it’s a worthy companion to exceptional food.” There were “still a few wrinkles to iron out, especially considering the price point,” but “there’s no denying the quality of the ingredients or the creativity of the menu.”

Read the full review at Haven in Paris

Find additional reviews and practical information for the beer bar on our page for La Fine Mousse.

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Our Guide to Summer

We’ve rounded up our favorite outdoor destinations for dining, drinking, and picnicking, and let you know which restaurants will be open and closed in August.

What’s Open in August

Our Guide to Outdoor Dining

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Our Guide to Outdoor Drinking

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Our Guide to Picnicking

paris picnic

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Gyoza Bar opens new location in Marais

Gyoza Bar 2 (75003) – The Japanese dumpling bar now has a chic second location in the Haut Marais that Paris Bouge declared “tout comme dans l’autre restaurant… Cuisiné par des mains expertes sur un plan de travail tout en ouverture, ce petit chausson rapide en bouche, cuit à la vapeur et grillé d’un côté, se trempe dans une sauce soja-agrume parfaitement relevée.” What is different at this location, however, is flavored angel food cake roll-ups from Pâtisserie Ciel for dessert.

For practical information and additional reviews, read our guide page for Gyoza Bar 2.

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Best Picnic Spots & Provisions in Paris

Paris is packed with ideal picnic locations, but where to buy the food and wine? Here are our selection of the best stops for portable provisions (cheese, charcuterie, breads, sweets, prepared foods and bottles) near our favorite picnic spots.

Our Favorite Picnic Spots in Paris

Click on any of our favorite picnic places below for our map showing where to buy your food and wine at each location.

Picnicking at the Sacré-CœurAt the Sacré-Cœur

2695777756_4d11b56d6e_oAlong the Seine

Canal Saint-MartinCanal Saint-Martin

Photo by Dewet via Flickr Champ de Mars (photo via Dewet/Flickr)

Tuileries Palais Royal Palais Royal/The Tuileries (photo via Dalbera/Flickr)

invalides-e1403525719945Esplanade des Invalides

2705502231_d136f84a5d-e1372745672332Luxembourg Gardens (photo by Nadya Peek via Flickr)

4275615569_c166ceeea3Parcs des Buttes-Chaumont and de la Villete

Place-des-Vosges Place des Vosges

Some tips for a pique-nique Parisien:

  • Those whistles you hear in the parks late at night? They’re important. They’re the last call for frolicking before the gates close and you will get locked in the park if you dally too long.
  • It’s perfectly acceptable to borrow a tire-bouchon (corkscrew) from a picnic neighbor if you find yourself without an opener. Or ask your wine shopkeeper to open and re-cork your bottle.
  • Drinking is fine in public places. Except these public places.
  • Cheap blankets and disposable serveware can be found at any grocery store. Plastic cups (aka gobelets) can also be bought by the sleeve or individual piece at most bodegas.

Other Warm Weather Posts: 

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Eggplant with Brie. Photo by Aaron Ayscough.

Encore

Brand-name suppliers (Joel Thiebault, Quatrehommes, Annie Bertin, Hugo Desnoyers, Christophe Vasseur, Terroirs d’Avenir) and natural wines are the backbone of this trend-heavy, but pleasant, modern French bistro helmed by the young Japanese chef Yoshi Morie.

Practical information

Address: 43 rue Richer, 75009
Nearest transport: Cadet (7), Grands Boulevards (8, 9)
Hours: Lunch Tuesday-Friday; Dinner Monday-Friday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 72 60 97 72
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French & Japanese
Website

Reviews of interest

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “L’adresse ne manque pas de zèle mais, à s’y attarder, dans ses tics et détails, il ne serait pas interdit de commencer à se lasser d’un bon ton devenu filon.”

Philippe Toinard (2013) “Et qui fait le buzz, serions-nous tenté d’ajouter ! Réseaux sociaux et blogosphère se sont enflammés pour cette adresse ouverte pendant l’été, et ce pour une unique raison, la présence en cuisine de Yoshi Morie que certains ont connu au Petit Verdot (6e). À tous les écouter et les lire, il a un talent fou. Certainement, mais à condition de goûter sa cuisine au dîner, parce qu’au déjeuner, c’est bon mais ça ne mérite pas tout ce tintamarre. Or, on attend d’un chef que sa cuisine soit aussi séduisante au déjeuner qu’au dîner.”

Adrian Moore (2013) “had one of the best meals of the pre-rentrée: 30€ for three delicious courses: a bright, crunchy mussels and cauliflower starter flavored with a vadouvan emulsion (French/Indian spice mix), and main course of monkfish with mixed cooked and raw vegetables (broccoli, burnt aubergine), all dishes doing a perfect job of creating layers of comforting taste and washed down with well chosen wines from our charming waitress. The dessert was the best I’ve had this season: a violet and fig compote with a Timut pepper sorbet.”

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “The only things I’m likely to remember about this place in two week’s time are the soulful icon of the smooth old wooden butcher’s block incorporated into the bar, the excellent white Gaillac we drank, the exceptionally alert and friendly service…I don’t doubt that Yoshi Morie is a sincere and talented chef, but I’d want him to find his own unique culinary signature and dare some livelier music on the plate before I returned for an encore, especially at these prices.”

John Talbott (2013) “This was chow worth schlepping 30 minutes for.”

Aaron Ayscough (2013) “And a plat of monkfish, chanterelles, and sea snails was a singularly intense marriage of forest and sea, like a walk in a public park in Atlantis. Every ingredient was in magnificent form: the monkfish flesh rich but not chewy, the chanterelles hauntingly bright and peachy.”

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Photo courtesy of The Sunken Chip

The Sunken Chip

Michael Greenwold of Roseval and James Whelan of L’Inconnu have teamed up to open the first dedicated fish and chips shop in Paris. Hake, pollock or catch of the day are available alongside thick chips and mushy peas. Pickled eggs, fish nuggets, chip butties (french fry sandwiches) and candies from across the chunnel make for an authentic Brit experience.

Practical information

Address: 39 rue des Vinaigriers, 75010
Nearest transport: Jacques Bonsergent (10), Château d’Eau (4)
Hours: Closed Monday and Tuesday; Open Wednesday-Sunday
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 53 26 74 46
Website

Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: fish and chips
Special attributes: chip butty (a french fry sandwich), pickled eggs, t0-go

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “The batter on their yellow pollack, sea bream, monkfish nuggets, and squid is light as a feather, and the quality of the fish is every bit as good, which is to say very, as you’d find at any serious Paris restaurant.”

Caroline Mignot (2013) “La chair du poisson est tendre, se détache bien et la panure croustillante et fine lui va à ravir. Pour l’accompagner, de grosses frites bien dorées et goûteuses – un peu épaisses peut-être.”

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “Le fish & chips (version merlu): bon mix tendre et croustillant harnaché de frites (très réussies) et de la classique purée de petits pois menthe (mushy peas).”

Aurélie Chaigneau (2013) “Le best du fish and chips débarque à Paris.”

John Talbott (2013) “The chips sure were sunken but the hake was magnificent.”

Aaron Ayscough (2013) “The Sunken Chip’s fish, sourced daily from a Breton fisherman and fine restaurant supplier called Thomas Sarraco, is impeccable. Of the three types I tried, the most impressive were the ugliest and least-invitingly named: “fish nuggets,” which is The Sunken Chip’s counter-intuitive way of selling monkfish cheek, the sôt-l’y laisse of the sea, savoured by every chef I know for its pliant delicacy. Who cares if it looks like something found in the fry-oil at the end of a shift?”

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “The fish and chips platter won me straight away, because the fish was so fresh–the seafood here comes from Thomas Saracco, a young small-boat fisherman in Brittany who’s won a reputation for his best-quality catch, and the batter was almost tempura like. Alas, the chips were soggy–I think the fryer needs some adjusting, but the dreaded side of mushy peas…were delicious–bright green, sweet, and garnished with chopped fresh mint.”

Sophie Doran (2013) “Servings are generous and the produce is top notch.”

Go Go Paris (2013) “There’s all sorts of authentically Brit sides, from home-made pickled onions or eggs to the “chip butty,” or chip sandwich, to English sodas including Ben Shaws Cream Soda or Vimto. Like everything else on the menu, the fish is of great quality; caught fresh daily and in France.”

 

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Pork belly 2013

La Régalade Conservatoire

Chef Bruno Doucet took over La Régalade from his boss Yves Camdeborde in 2004, then added La Régalade Saint Honoré in 2010. This third location, part of a new boutique hotel designed by Jean-Michel Wilmotte, opened in February 2013 and is serving classic Doucet bistro fare like house-made terrine, pork belly with lentils, sea bream with fennel, rice pudding, and a Grand Marnier soufflé. Affordably priced with prix-fixe menus at lunch (26€) and dinner (35€).

Practical information

Address: 7-9 rue Conservatoire
Nearest transport: Bonne Nouvelle (8, 9) or Poissonière (7)
Hours: Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday
Reservations: Last-minute ok (this may change)
Telephone: 01 44 83 83 60
Average price for lunch: 26€
Average price for dinner: 35€
Style of cuisine: French bistro
Website

Reviews of interest

Aaron Ayscough (2014) “A course in restaurant archaeology. Somewhere, amid the incompletely obsequious service and the fossilized wine lists and the scattered décor, lay the bones of a pioneering restaurant concept.”

Caroline Mignot (2013) “La cuisson de ce cabillaud 1/2 sel rôti à la plancha est assez exceptionnelles, c’est ferme, il y a de la mâche et de la douceur en même temps, c’est extra.”

John Talbott (2013) “Don’t expect a gutsy repetition of the old original in the 14th or somewhat more refined St Honore version, to my taste-buds he’s gone a bit over the top with #3.”

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “Our main courses were excellent. Francois tucked into a big juicy steak sliced and presented on a mound of stewed beef cheeks and carrots in a red-wine enriched jus; Bruno and loved our griddled half-salted cod with a pistachio crust on a bed of winter vegetables and shellfish… After our main courses, a few sticking points registered. When the delightful hotel manager excused himself and went home, service fell off a cliff in the dining room… And as good as the food is and as attractive as Wilmotte’s dining room may be, this place has very little atmosphere. All of these flaws will doubtless be remedied as the restaurant settles in, however.”

François-Régis Gaudry (2013) “Bruno Doucet garde toujours les pieds sur terre. Même quand il s’adosse au Nell, un nouveau boutique hôtel designed by Jean-Michel Wilmotte et auréolé de 5 étoiles. Sa troisième Régalade… est un petit bijou en noir et blanc où le chef récite avec le même entrain sa formule magique : menu-carte entrée+plat+dessert à 35 € (valable le soir), avec toujours la terrine entière qui vous arrive en cadeau de bienvenue et cet anthologique riz au lait au rayon desserts, servi dans son saladier avec son petit pot de caramel au beurre salé…”

 

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Maison F

Just north of Grands Boulevards, this fashionable address is serving aged beef, stiff cocktails, and many varieties (some of them good) of frites.

Practical information

Address: 5 rue Rongemont, 75009
Nearest transport: Grands Boulevards (lines 8,9)
Hours: Open for lunch Monday-Friday, open for dinner Tuesday-Saturday. Closed all day Sunday, Saturday lunch & Monday dinner.
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Tel: 01 42 46 23 16
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Website

Reviews of interest

François Simon (2014) “Je cherchais de bonnes frites, les voici, Maison F!”

Emmanuel Rubin (2014) “L’adresse désire verser la frite du côté du chic (est-ce vraiment sa nature ?) en la déclinant pour arbitrer une cuisine somme toute bourgeoise. Plus prétexte qu’à propos.”

Paris Bouge (2013) “Sur la carte, trois frites en permanence : la frite Allumette, la Pomme de terre frites au blanc de bœuf et la Pomme Pont Neuf. Et toutes les semaines, des frites pas banales se rajoutent à la carte : risotto, polenta en ce moment. La Maison F, c’est surtout de la qualité et des fournisseurs choisis pour leur excellence.”

David Lebovitz (2013) “It was disquieting to be presented with rectangular plates, with carefully arranged fries in a neat row. They didn’t taste bad, but suffered from the non-crispy fry syndrome that is a problem in Paris…Our steaks (€28) were thin and not very juicy.”

Meg Zimbeck (2013) “It’s not there yet, but I think that in another month this place will have improved dramatically. They seem to care. For those who are looking for a place with a lot of style, and who care a touch more about scene than sustenance, this will be a good launching pad for a big night out.”

My Little Paris (2013) “Ce nouveau resto, c’est un peu la maison haute-couture de la frite française. En collection permanente, 3 variétés de frites. Et chaque semaine, un nouveau type à la carte. En ce moment, ce sont les fameuses Botero. Dévorez-les en finger food au bar à cocktail, ou au resto à l’étage, accompagnées d’une côte de bœuf fondante. Exquis.”

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Fish Club Exterior

Fish Club

This outpost from the ECC crew (just down the street from its meat-centric sister spot Beef Club), is a sleek fish joint with a South American twist. Crab cakes, ceviches, tinned fish, oysters and other seafood small plates are accompanied by a tight list of pisco based cocktails and interesting French beers.

Practical information

Address: 58 rue Jean Jacques Rousseau, 75001
Nearest transport: Les Halles (4)
Hours: Open every day; dinner only
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 40 26 68 75
E-mail: reservation@eccfishclub.com
Average price for cocktail: 12€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: South american, oysters & fruit des mer
Website

Reviews of interest

Emmanuel Rubin “Les façons tapas remplacent les assiettes XXL et, Amérique contre Amérique, plutôt que l’influence yankee, la cuisine verse dans les ceviches, tiraditos et autres miniatures péruviennes, mélange de cru et de grill, d’épices et d’agrumes, de naturel et d’énergique, que l’internationale foodeuse plébiscite désormais. Pour le reste, mêmes punitions, mêmes motifs: cocktails et flacons inspirés, additions pimentées, public impatient de s’y coincer, service et carnet de résa asphyxiés.”

Le Fooding (2013) “Notre préféré? Le Fish Club : combinaison de maigre de ligne, leche de tigre (marinade du ceviche opacifié par les sucs de poisson cru)calamar frit, oignon rouge, patate douce, maïs frit et piment aji amarillo.”

World’s Best Bars (2013) “There’s a South American influence in the drinks list with pisco-based cocktails featuring prominently – and their drink prices are pretty reasonable, especially given the quality. There’s also a decent selection of wines to choose from, mainly white, as well as a menu full of fresh, vibrant dishes, like Peruvian ceviche (in keeping with the Latin American theme), oysters, crabcakes and caviar.”

 

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La Dame de Pic (photo courtesy of her blog)

La Dame de Pic

This is the Paris outpost from Anne-Sophie Pic, named in 2011 as “the world’s best female chef” for her three-star restaurant in Valence. Here, and working with Philippe Bousseton, the nose for perfumer Takasago, Pic has created three menus based upon fragrance profiles. Menus at 49€ (lunch), 79€, 100€ and 120€.

Practical information

Address: 20 rue du Louvre, 75001
Nearest transport: Louvre-Rivoli (1)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 42 60 40 40
Website

Average price for lunch: 35-49€ (menu 49€)
Average price for dinner: more than 100€ (menus at 79, 100, 120€)
Style of cuisine: modern French/haute cuisine
Special attributes: open on Monday, renowned chef

Reviews of interest

Caroline Mignot (2013) “Le vacherin au parfum de rose, de riz, de gingembre et de thé sencha. Si j’ai retrouvé avec plaisir tous les textures du vacherin (glacée, fondante, craquante), la délicatesse des notes était tellement poussée qu’elle m’a fait passer un peu à côté des parfums. Comme un parfum très, très léger qui se sent à peine sur la peau. Si je devais rester dans la métaphore du parfum, je dirais qu’il n’était pas assez capiteux à mon goût.”

Patricia Wells (2012) “Anne-Sophie Pic’s week-old La Dame de Pic near the Louvre is the sensation of the rentrée… She sports her feminine role, but does not flaunt it or play it cute. Ingredients are impeccable, preparations are complicated but not overdone, and the taste theme throughout is one of  softness and smoothness with a required touch of crunch. I would never think of pairing warm oysters with cauliflower, but Anne-Sophie offers a regal, cloud-like presentation of warm Gillardeau oysters bathed in a frank and fragrant cream of cauliflower and jasmine, surprising as well as satisfying.”

Alexander Lobrano via Twitter (2012) “La Dame du Pic in Paris…nah; Anne-Sophie Pic is a terrific chef but this place is way too high concept and over-priced.”

Bruno Verjus (2012) “Une belle table à fréquenter d’urgence avant la folie de la mode à venir. Une haute cuisine française pour le prix d’un bistrot chic parisien. L’adresse sincère d’une Dame de coeur.”

 

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Kouign Amann at La Pointe du Groin

La Pointe du Grouin

 An absolute favorite

Named for a pig’s snout (and not its other end), this dirt-cheap Breton wine bar is sandwiched between Thierry Breton’s two other eateries Chez Michel and Chez Casimir.  Don’t worry if you don’t understand the system–it’s not clear that there is one. Just sidle up to the bar, let them know how hungry you are, and wait for the small plates to roll out. Expect hearty regional fare including breaded pig snout with tapenade and braised oxtail with celery root purée, plus spot-on desserts like chocolate kouign amann and prune-studded far breton.  On the beverage front, it’s wines by the magnum and box wine that isn’t atrocious. The small-plates lunch is augmented by excellent sandwiches on Breton’s own bread with ingredients like house-smoked salmon, raw cream and piment d’Espelette. These can be packed to-go for travelers headed to the nearby Gare du Nord.

Practical information

Address: 8 rue de Belzunce, 75010
Nearest transport: Gare du Nord (4,5), Poissonnière (7)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: No telephone
Average price for lunch: under 10€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: French-Breton, small plates & tapas

Reviews of interest

Caroline Mignot (2014) ” Le lieu comme j’en connais assez peu à Paris : un bar à tapas bretons, très accessibles soit dit en passant, brut de décoffrage comme son patron Thierry Breton, où l’on respire et d’où l’on n’a pas envie de partir, tout cela faisait que j’avais envie de revenir.”

Aaron Ayscough (2013) “Some diners might balk at the anarchic scene at La Pointe du Grouin, the majority of guests seem reassured by its lack of pretense…”

Philippe Toinard (2013) “Entre restaurant, table d’hôtes et pâtisserie – boulangerie, Thierry Breton a imaginé un lieu où tout est permis mais où le client en fait plus que de coutume.”

Aaron Ayscough (2013) “It’s spacious, rangy, and weird, offering magnums of natural wine and simple small plates at a price-quality ratio approaching the one achieved when Manhattan was bought for beads. It’s a Paris wine bar that explodes the traditional Parisian opposition between egalité and haute-qualité: a place where many can drink well for very little.”

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “bistrot de vagabondage nappé de carreaux et de bonnes intentions par la bande du voisin Chez Michel, où les appétits trouveront à pique-niquer dans l’urbain à grand renfort de gaillardises bretonnantes et de casse-croûte ventrus.”

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Shaved beet atop crab, heirloom tomatoes and miso vinaigrette

Abri

Bright and modern both in the room and on the plate, Abri is on its way to being the best-loved bistro of the rentrée.

Practical information

Address: 92 rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière, 75010 (map)
Nearest transport: Poissonnière (7)
Hours: Monday and Saturday lunch from 10am-7pm with sandwiches only. Four-course tasting lunch menu Tuesday through Friday, and six-course tasting dinner menu Tuesday to Saturday.
Reservations: book several weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 83 97 00 00
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: modern French
Special attributes: open Monday, prix-fixe, market-based cooking, exceptional desserts

Reviews of interest

Caroline Mignot (2012) “J’adooooooore la tarte tatin et c’est un dessert que je n’ai plus l’habitude de déguster au restaurant. Petite part extra, dense en goût, en texture, ça envoie (pâte feuilletée et pommes très caramélisées, je crois que la photo parle d’elle-même). Glace à la vanille terrible et caramel blond foncé, un peu épais, bien collant et fort en goût. Ohhh que c’était bon.”

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “This [dessert] was easily the best happy ending I’ve enjoyed all year, in fact, and it underlined the 360 degree excellence of this miniature kitchen and its remarkably self-exigent high-performance staff. This inflection of charm, excellence and affordability won’t last long, so go now.”

Chroniques du Plaisir (2012) “C’est sans aucun doute mon coup de cœur de cette rentrée… Tout dans cette adresse m’enchante : le décor au dépouillement et à la sophistication (une place pour chaque chose) très nipponne, l’assiette toute aussi dépouillée mais savoureuse du chef japonais… Franchement, on rêverait d’un Paris avec un Abri à chaque coin de rue.”

John Talbott (2012) “The 5 Japanese young-folks who cook and serve here have grabbed a tiger by the tail; today they turned away at least 10 people at lunch who didn’t have reservations and it’s only going to get worse, so book early.”

Le Fooding (2012) “Le chef japonais Katsuaki Okiyama (Robuchon, Taillevent et l’Agapé Bistrot, tout de même), vient d’inventer, dans une cantinette en longueur du haut du faubourg Poissonnière, un genre nouveau: la restaurandwicherie gastronomique… Qui sert tantôt le sus-décrit méga-sandwich les lundi et samedi de 10h à 17h, tantôt des menus dégustation quatre plats (au déjeuner pour 22€) ou six plats (au diner pour 38,50€).”

 

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Photo via Bistrot Belhara's Facebook page

Bistrot Belhara

Picture perfect Parisian bistro with Basque-inflected food from Thierry Dufroux, who sharpened his teeth at Alain Ducasse, Bernard Loiseau, Michel Guérard, and Bistro Volnay. The restaurant can be reserved privately for large groups on Sundays and Mondays.

Practical information

Address: 27 rue Duvivier, 75007
Nearest transport: École Militaire (8), La Tour-Maubourg (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 45 51 41 77
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French, Basque
Website

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “Casually elegant, technically perfect, and respectfully traditional with a tweak of irreverence to make it his own. Small wonder then that this restaurant has so impressively established itself as a neighborhood favorite within months of opening, and this while walking the tight-rope of an affluent but reflexively parsimonious clientele who are wary of anything that wanders too wide of the mark of traditional French food.

Thierry Richard (2013) “Le Bistrot Belhara possède tous les attributs du petit caboulot parisien comme on les aime, le décor aux accents familiers (bar, banquette de velours rouge, carreaux de ciment, menu à l’ardoise), le patron en cuisine à la bonne humeur communicative, le service de tabliers noirs à la connivence facile, ses ambiances de province bourgeoise, bien mise, sûre d’elle et sereine, savoureuse.”

Slate (2013) “Toutes ces préparations exactes, mitonnées avec amour, figurent au menu à 35 euros avec quelques suppléments. On est loin du bistrot de quartier, on est en présence d’un singulier passionné des casseroles qui sait réjouir les hôtes et emballer les saveurs comme dans un grand restaurant.”

John Talbott (2013) “It was scores-ville; a wonderful warm “rustic” pate en croute with foie gras and duck and a rich red wine sauce and sweetbreads just like I love them – crispy outside, moist inside with perfectly cooked teeny tiny potatoes.”

François-Régis Gaudry (2013)”Sans aucun doute l’une des révélations 2013! On n’avait pas senti depuis des mois tant de coeur à l’ouvrage, de sincérité et de précision d’exécution dans un zinc de moins de 30 couverts.”

Philippe Toinard (2013) “Une remarquable épaule de lapin confite au romarin…ça n’est en rien comparable au riz au lait, noisettes et marmelade d’abricots qui pourrait postuler, s’il existait, au trophée du meilleur riz au lait.”

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “Girolles, œuf mollet, lard: d’une rondeur «sur sapide». Coques, palourdes au vin blanc, poulpe et encornets à l’ail: gagnerait à ne pas s’assortir de spaghetti. Caneton croisé frotté au piment d’Espelette: rassurant.”

 

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Pirouette restaurant Paris

Pirouette

Chef Tomy Gousset passed through the kitchens of Le Meurice and Daniel Bouloud (NYC) before opening this stunning new restaurant in the underserved district just north of Les Halles. Serious technique is brought to bear on beautiful veggies and offal alike. The consistently delicious dishes, the polished room and the very good wine list all add up to something that’s much greater than the bargain prices should allow. There’s a prix fixe at lunch for only 15€, and diners can go à la carte at lunch or dinner for 36€. Recommended.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 5 rue Mondétour, 75001
Nearest transport: Les Halles (1, 4, 7, 11) Etienne Marcel (4)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 40 26 47 81
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: open on Monday, renowned chef, prestige ingredients

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2014) “Loiseau and Ledeuil have nothing on Tomy Gousset; what innovation! Another place with both astonishing food and wonderful service, decor and welcome; not to mention great prices.”

John Talbott (2013) “Pirouette in the 1st is one of those really feel good and eat good places where you feel equally well-treated by the front room guys and chefs in back.  The menu always seems interesting and doesn’t repeat much, so every time is like the first time for us.”

Thierry Richard (2013) “Autres souvenirs mémorables, une déclinaison de veau (ris, rognons et langue) délicieuse variation de textures et de goût nappée d’une purée maison montée au beurre, une aiguille fumée à la pomme verte étincelante de fraicheur et d’audace, des gnocchis maison au potiron et lamelles de parmesan d’une absolue légèreté. Bref, du très bon.”

Caroline Mignot (2012) “Ce que je ne réalise pas à la première bouchée, mais à la deuxième de ce filet de saumon très, très tendre (cuit à coeur), de cette purée de lentille assez lisse, de ces 2-3 copeaux de parmesan et de ces brins de roquette, c’est que je suis dans le mou et que sur tout mon déjeuner, j’ai l’impression de manger sans mâcher.  Tout est bon hein, mais j’ai une drôle de sensation et je me dis que des lentilles entières et cuites un peu fermes auraient été parfaites. Le pigeon de mon amie est très bien soit dit en passant.”

Philippe Toinard (2012) “Un duo espiègle avec des créations qui sortent de l’ordinaire comme cet octopus (poulpe) cuit à la plancha. Mal préparé, la mastication peut s’avérer douloureuse. Ici, il est furieusement tendre et nous voici réconciliés avec ce mollusque des fonds rocheux. A suivre, une assiette d’abats de veau, ris, rognons et langues. Si les ris et les rognons sont souvent à la carte des restaurants, la langue n’a en général pas son mot à dire. Ici, elle est mise en valeur par une cuisson qui la rend presque fondante.”

 

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Dining room at Allard

Allard

The sepia-toned dining room at this historic bistro remains the same, but Alain Ducasse and protégé Laëtitia Rouabah have taken over the kitchen and the accompanying carte of classic Burgundian dishes. Reviews are mixed.

Practical information

Address: 41 Rue Saint-André des Arts, 75006
Nearest transport: Saint-Michel (4)
Hours: Open every day for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
Telephone: 01 43 26 48 23
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: classic French
Special attributes: open Sunday, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Caroline Mignot (2014) “La carte passe d’une région à l’autre, avec des plats de tradition, savoureux et évoquant la générosité.”

John Talbott (2013) “In other words, come for comfort food not a food experience.  So maybe one should for the carte but there’s no need for me to return for the “menu” which fell apart in mid-meal, just to have a great salad frisee and figs.”

François-Régis Gaudry (2013) “Jolie salade de frisée aux croûtons et gros lardons potelés, honnête saumon grillé à la sauce béarnaise, savarin au rhum et sa crème fouettée moelleusement tradi. Pour vous extirper d’un coup sec de ce flash-back dans la France de René Coty, Alain Ducasse a trouvé la solution miracle: une addition qui ne compte pas en anciens francs mais en euros. Et, l’air de rien, ça en fait, des euros.”

Patricia Wells (2013) “My salade de frisée (curly endive with cubes of bacon and croutons) arrived as an ignored orphan, without even a sprinkle of the classically vinegary dressing…Desserts have a way to go…both the fig and the blackberry tarts looked and tasted as though they had been made for a much earlier date, with under-cooked crust not worthy of a neophyte.”

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “L’addition est franchement perchée et le rétro préformaté. Du coup, Paris n’est pas là. Comme si, Ducasse, cette fois, réveillait la belle endormie sans y mettre la langue.”

 

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Restaurant David Toutain (photo Meg Zimbeck)

Restaurant David Toutain

David Toutain is back. The much lauded chef, who brought acclaim to Agapé Substance before jumping ship back in December 2012, returned with his own place during the last days of 2013.  His meticulous and conceptual cooking highlights seasonal produce, with vegetables often playing the starring role. This is by no means a vegetarian restaurant, but Toutain’s ability to bring out the beauty in oft-ignored roots reminds us of his former boss Alain Passard. Tasting menus range from 42€ at lunch to 98€ for the most extensive menu (available at lunch or dinner). Wine pairings – thoughtfully done – are available for another 40-50€.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 29 rue Surcouf, 75007
Nearest transport: Invalides (8)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance at reservation@davidtoutain.com
Telephone: 01 45 51 11 10
Average price for lunch: 40-59€
Average price for dinner: 60-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

Sugared & Spiced (2014) “Clever, beautiful small plates made up of pristine ingredients.”

François-Régis Gaudry for L’Express (2014) “Retenez le nom de ce chef surdoué: il va faire le tour du monde.”

Adrian Moore (2014) ” His surprise menus are inventive, eclectic, and hyper-seasonal.”

Philippe Toinard for A Nous Paris (2014) “Reconnaissons à ce trentenaire sa capacité à tout maîtriser, les différentes cuissons, la transformation des produits bruts en mille et une textures (bouillon de pelures de pommes de terre, poudre de fenouil ou mousse de speck), et ce sens de l’association osée (huître et kiwi/œuf, maïs et caramel/chocolat blanc, chou-fleur et glace au lait de coco).”

Patricia Wells (2014) “David Toutain is a cerebral chef. Nothing is accidental and when you enter his brand new 7tharrondissement restaurant you are subject to his rules and his way of thinking. Yet you never feel as though your arm is being twisted. This is not a restaurant for a casual meal, but rather one that is meticulously planned and thought out, and begs for, yes deserves,  your attention. And it’s well worth your time.”

Alexander Lobrano for T Magazine (2014) “The rhythm of the prix-fixe menu, which changes daily, is intentionally varied. Toutain composes meals so that a quiet dish, like seared foie gras in baked potato bouillon with black truffles, sets up the drama of another dish meant to dazzle, like a monochromatic white composition of cuttlefish with yuba (bean-curd sheet) and nearly translucent Parmesan gnocchi, seasoned with the juice extracted from cooking the cheese at a very low temperature for many hours.”

Le Fooding (2014) “Chez lui, Toutain joue en sourdine. Décor aéré presque sévère (bois, béton, aplats gris), service cravaté et… carte muette ! Tout commence par une page blanche – une table en bois massif qui s’habille pièce à pièce : serviette, verres, cailloux, coupelles, terres cuites.”

John Talbott (2013) “Any striking plusses? The wonderful warmth of the newly gathered staff (quite astonishing). The innovative, consistent, explosive food.”

Additional images

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Oysters with kiwi

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Gnocchi with foie gras, black truffle, and potato skin broth

IMG_5226

Pork cooked in a crust flecked with coffee beans, served with orange, carrot and potimarron

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Cabillaud (cod) with broccoli and pil pil

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24 month Comté with black truffle

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Candied topinambour (Jerusalem artichoke) with crème de praline and topinambour ice cream

IMG_5243

Poire confit (candied pear)

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Our Guide to Normandy

Normandy-Cow

Activities for Food Lovers

Musée de Camembert (in Vimoutiers)

Delicious Normandy Food Tours (in Bayeux)

Restaurants

Le Vauban (in Port-en-Bessin-Huppain)

Auberge le Clos Saint Julien (in Saint-Julien-sur-Calonne)

Manoir de la Drôme (in Balleroy)

Restaurant La Sapinière (in Saint-Laurent-sur-Mer)

La Rotonde (in Port-en-Bessin-Huppain)

Cheese & Dairy

La Fromagerie Graindorge (in Livarot)

Coopérative Isigny Sainte-Mère (in Isigny-sur-Mer)

La Fromagerie de Bayeux (in Bayeux)

Wine & Cider

Cave Cidricole Lecornu (in Bayeux)

La Ferme de la Sapinière (in Saint-Laurent-sur-Mer)

Le Volet Qui Penche (in Bayeux)

Markets

Saturday Market in Bayeux

Sweets

Biscuiterie Les Sablés d’Asnelles (in Asnelles-sur-Mer)

Pâtisserie la Reine Mathilde (in Bayeux)

 

 

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Monsieur Bleu

Our Guide to Outdoor Dining

Casual favorites with outdoor seating 

O DivinÔ Divin

  • Ô Divin – A pocket sized restaurant near the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont with a hidden courtyard, natural wines, and interesting food. Saturday nights are a small plates wine bar format. Monday is pork couscous. Tuesday-Friday nights feature ambitious and mostly successful modern plates from young chef Mathieu Moity.
  • Will – There’s a smattering of lime green chairs on the sidewalk at this brand new modern bistro near the Aligre market.
  • Le Square Gardette – A taxidermized haven with a handful of outdoor tables, it’s Bobo paradise on a sunny day.
  • Café dei Cioppi – A cobbled terrasse tucked away in a quiet passage just east of Bastille. Almost universally adored, this tiny spot, hidden from the street, is the Italian restaurant everyone wishes were in their neighborhood. Booking imperative.
  • Le Comptoir du Relais – Yves Camdeborde’s beloved bistro, once neo and now classic, has several sidewalk tables. Book months in advance for weeknight, no-choice dinner, or just queue up at lunch or weekends for the so-called “brasserie menu”.
  • Chez Michel – This Breton bistrominique near the Gare du Nord serves a four course feast featuring dishes that are baked in a massive dining room oven. A few outdoor tables are available as well.
  • Chez Casimir – This bustling annex of Chez Michel offers some sidewalk seating along with hearty seasonal cooking and a heavy dose of old Paris charm.
  • Philou – There are a few sheltered seats outside one of our favorite absolute favorite bistros. Chef Philippe Damas showcases some of the season’s best ingredients.
  • Maria Luisa – A popular one for pizza near the canal, with outdoor seating.
  • Nanashi in Saint-Germain – A dappled courtyard inside the Bonpoint boutique featuring colorful, Japanese-inflected salads, soups, and small plates, as well as a decidedly non-Japanese coffee cream tart, courtesy of a Rose Bakery alum.
  • Le Bal Café – At this café/exhibition space on a quiet impasse near Place de Clichy, a pair of former Rose Bakery cooks are giving modern British cooking a very good name, and a serious barista is serving some of the best coffee in town. We like the handful of seats in a quiet, sunny spot facing an outdoor playground.
  • La Fontaine de Mars – Breezy indoor/outdoor dining at this perpetual favorite.  This mainstay on the crowded rue Saint-Dominique, offers classic cooking with a southwestern tilt. Open every day.
  • Nüba- Probably the best nightclub food in all of Paris. The décor is somewhat sterile, but it barely matters when the backdrop is a waterfront view from the rooftop of Les Docks.
  • La Rotonde – Snag a sidewalk seat at this classic Montparnasse café and brasserie. They serve standards like onion soup and steak tartare all day long.
  • Le Marché des Enfants Rouges – The oldest covered market in the city is also one of the most unusual. There are fruits, flowers, fish, but more importantly, several tiny international restaurants which serve only at lunchtime. The Moroccan stand with its heaps of couscous and fruit-studded tajines is our favorite. Enjoy a cup of mint tea at one of their tiled tables and soak up some sun in the midst of the bustling market. There’s also a fish & chips station, a colorful French brunch destination, Japanese bento boxes and more.

Posh & beautiful with really good food

Le Mini Palais - outdoor terrasseLe Mini Palais

  • Le Mini Palais – Towering columns, palm trees, spacious seating… c’est la classe. Eric Fréchon of the Bristol is the consulting chef of this contemporary, chic brasserie.
  • Les Climats – Go for the sweet, shady terrasse (only open at lunch) but stay for the all-Burgundy wine list.
  • La Grand Cascade – Gorgeous forest-side dining at this Michelin one-star in a grand pavilion in the Bois de Boulogne.
  • Napoleone – The latest addition from Chef Christian Etchebest (from the Cantines de la Cigaledu Troquet & du Troquet Dupleix) is better than most of what you’ll find along the Champs-Élysées. The neo-bistrot has a striking terrace, a classic menu and is open late.
  • Laurent – Luxury and history come together at Laurent, where you can dine in the former hunting lodge of Louis XIV or, better yet, at a table in the garden. Fine dining, fine setting.
  • Drouant – A collection of plant-protected outdoor tables, smack in the city center. Facing a very pretty square, Drouant has been around since 1880. Now run by Antoine Westermann, the menu offers elegantly updated classics with an emphasis on seafood.
  • Chamarre Montmartre – Chef Antoine Heerah draws from the flavors and ingredients of his native Mauritius — and all around the Indian ocean — and fuses them with French technique.

Extraordinary settings with just average food

Monsieur Bleu

Monsieur Bleu (photo courtesy of their Facebook page)

  • Monsieur Bleu – The food leaves a little something to be desired, but with one of the best views of the Eiffel Tower in all of Paris, the terrace is showstopping.
  • Hotel Amour – Fashion types flock to to this boutique hotel for lunch in the secluded back garden.
  • Mama Shelter – Picnic tables, hammocks, lounges and comfort food are on offer at this rooftop terrace at the boutique hotel in the 20th.
  • La Terrasse – Lunch with a view, atop the Galeries Lafayette department store.
  • Rosa Bonheur – The mood goes from picnic to party as the day progresses at this pavillion in the Parc des Buttes Chaumont. Small plates, straightforward plats du jour and drinks.
  • Les Trois Garçons - The service is lackadaisical but congenial, and the food is often uneven, but the large, shady terrace is one of the nicest in the neighborhood and they’re open all day, every day.
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Le Servan opens & everyone talks about the chef’s boyfriend

Aaron Ayscough clocks the first review of the long-awaited Le Servan from sister duo Tatiana (formerly Arpège & Astrance) and Katia Levha. He’s impressed:  “Almost every component of my meal at Le Servan was sterling, a tour de force of talent and good taste.”

John Talbott calls chef Levha the “very attractive Filipino… consort of Bertrand Grebaut (of Septime),” which hurts us inside. Apparently he likes this, naming Le Servan “the best prix-qualité ratio of the year 2014.” Talbott isn’t alone in tittering about Levha’s love life: the number of writers who have managed to review this restaurant without mentioning the chef’s boyfriend can be counted on three fingers.

Read the full review from Not Drinking Poison in Paris and John Talbott

For practical information and additional reviews, read our page on Le Servan.

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About the Mouth

Our Staff

Meg Z pic

Meg Zimbeck, Founder & Editor-in-Chief

Catherine Down

Catherine Down, Assistant Editor

sara

Sara Garcia, Director of Food & Wine Tours

francesca

Francesca Hansen, Director of Development

Our Contributing Editors

Aaron Ayscough

Aaron Ayscough

Alexander Lobrano

Alexander Lobrano

Clotilde Dusoulier

Clotilde Dusoulier

Phyllis Flick

Phyllis Flick

Dorie Greenspan

Dorie Greenspan

Camille Malmquist

Camille Malmquist

John Talbott

John Talbott

Lindsey Tramuta

Lindsey Tramuta

Patricia Wells

Patricia Wells

Together, our Contributing Editors have:

  • penned thousands of articles for food and travel magazines & websites, including: The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, The Los Angeles Times, The International Herald Tribune, Bon Appetit, Saveur, Food & Wine, Gourmet, Conde Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure, Olive, Parade, Metropolitan, Budget Travel, Town & Country TRAVEL, USA Weekend, Serious Eats, BlackBook, Gridskipper, ELLE à Table, Régal, L’Express, Saveurs, ELLE, & Glamour.
  • written more than 20 books about food, earning six James Beard awards and one IACP Cookbook of the Year award.
  • created blogs that collectively draw more than one million monthly page views. Two of these have been ranked among the World’s 50 Best Food Blogs. More than 100,000 fans subscribe to these blogs on Google Reader.
  • tweeted to a combined audience of more than 25,000 Twitter followers.

Contact Information

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Best Baguette 2013 Paris Photo Meg Zimbeck

Mapped: All of Paris’ Top Baguettes

Last week, we reported that Antonio Teixeira had been named the winner (for the second time) of the Best Baguette in Paris competition. We now present the rest of the prizewinning bakers from this annual contest. Because of several ties, the top ten is actually a top 15 list in 2014. The 14th arrondissement, home to the grand prize winner and two other best baguettes, has once again displaced Montmartre as the best ‘hood for bread.

Below, we’ve listed and mapped all the top baguette bakers going back to 2011, so you can always find a good baguette when you need one.


View The Best Baguettes in Paris in a larger map

Paris’ Top Baguettes in 2014

1. Antonio Teixeira from Aux Delices du Palais, 60 boulevard Brune, 75014.

2. A tie between Christian Vabret from Au Petit Versailles du Marais at 27 rue François Miron, 75004 and Ali Ben Kadher from La Montmartoise at 43 rue de Clignancourt, 75018.

3. Benjamin Turquier from 134 RdT at, you guessed it, 134 rue de Turenne, 75003. This is the third time Turquier, who also wins awards for his buttery croissants, has placed in the top ten ranking for baguette.

4. A tie between Naceur Ben Habhab from Au Pain d’Autrefois at 83 rue Damrémont, 75018 and Guillaume Delcourt from Maison Delcourt at 100 rue Boileau, 75016.

5. A tie between Philippe Gosselin from Gosselin Saint Honoré at 125 rue Saint Honoré, 75001 and Mohamed Ellini from Les Artisans du Pain at 81 rue Didot, 75014.

6. Grégory Zore from Boulangerie Mulot at 75 rue de Seine, 75006.

7. Dominique Saibron from Macaron’s Café at 77 avenue du Général Leclerc, 75014.

8. A three-way tie between Benoît Castel from Liberté at 39 rue des Vinaigriers, 75010 and Narcisse Pasquier from La Petite Marquise at 3 place Victor Hugo, 75116 and Patrick Hardel from Acacias Etoile at 31 rue des Acacias, 75017.

9. Hamid Meksem from Meksem at 27 rue Campo Formio, 75013.

10. Sébasien Beasse and Vanessa Lecor from Le Petrin Normand at 152 rue de la Convention, 75015.

Judging the Best Baguettes in Paris

Paris’ Top Baguettes in 2013

1. Au Paradis du Gourmand, 156 Rue Raymond Losserand, 75014

2. Boulangerie Raphaëlle, 1 rue Feutrier, 75018

3. Boulangerie Damiani, 125 avenue du Clichy, 75017

4. Christian Vabret, 27 rue Francois Miron, 75004

5. Maison Cailleaud, 104 Cours de Vincennes, 75012

6. Yosuké Fijié from Maison Landemeine, 56 rue du Clichy, 75009

7. Dominique Saibron, 77 avenue du Géneral Leclerc, 75014

8. Le Grenier à Pain Lafayette, 91 rue Faubourg Poissonière, 75009

9. La Parisienne, 12 rue Coustou, 75018

10. Claude Besnier, 40 rue du Bourgogne, 75007

Evaluating the meilleur baguette de Paris

Paris’ Top Baguettes in 2012

1.  Boulangerie Mauvieux 159 rue Ordener, 75018

2. Raoul Maeder 111 boulevard Haussmann, 75008

3. Alexandre Chauvin, Boulangerie Audou, 10 rue de Chanzy, 75011

4. Dominique Anract, La Pompadour, 110 rue de la Tour, 75016

5. Arnaud Delmontel, 39 rue des Martyrs, 75009

6. Narcisse Pasquier and David Pasquereau, La Petite Marquise, 3 place Victor Hugo, 75016

7. Guillaume Delcourt, 100 rue Boileau, 75016

8. Eran Mayer, 100 rue du Théatre, 75015

9. Benjamin Turquier, 134 RdT, 134 rue de Turenne, 75003

10. Ludovic Jeanette, Les Saveurs de Wagram, 169 avenue de Wagram, 75017

not all are created equal

Paris’ Top Baguettes in 2011

1. Pascal Barillon, Au Levain d’Antan, 6 rue des Abbesses, 75018

2. Gaétan Romp, 14 rue de la Michodière, 75002

3. Pascal Jamin, Les Saveurs du 20ème, 120 rue de Bagnolet, 75020

4. Gontran Cherrier, 22 rue Caulaincourt, 75018

5. M. Risser, Le Fournil du Village, 12 place J.B. Clément, 75018

6. Gilles Levaslot, Les Gourmandises d’Eiffel, 187 rue de Grenelle, 75007

7. Jean-Noël Julien from Julien, 75 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001

8. Philippe Marache, 92 av de la République Paris, 75011

9. Philippe Bogner, 204 rue des Pyrénées, 75020

10. Le Grenier à Pain Saint-Amand, 33 bis rue Saint-Amand, 75015

View The Best Baguettes in Paris in a larger map

Additional Reading

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Alain Ducasse Saint-Germain Chocolat

Genin & Ducasse to Open Left Bank Chocolate Shops

We used to say that “it’s impossible to be a top chocolatier and not have a shop in Saint-Germain. Except for Jacques Genin in the Marais.” That was later amended to add Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse when it opened near Bastille.

And now both of these outliers are opening shops in Saint-Germain.

The wonderful site Painrisien recently tweeted a picture of the storefront window at 26 rue Saint-Benoit, advertising the imminent arrival of Ducasse. That means you’ll soon be able to buy a box of bonbons and eat it while standing in line for Le Relais de L’Entrecôte.

The left bank outpost for Jacques Genin is more of a distant dream, but they confirmed that they are indeed looking for a space near Saint-Germain or Saint-Sulpice. He’s a bit busy right now painting several hundred chocolate eggs but hopes to return to the search sometime after Easter.

Just to recap, here’s a list of our favorite chocolatiers in and around Saint-Germain. Additional listings can be found in Our Guide to Chocolate Shops.

Saint-Germain

Henri Leroux
Jean-Charles Rouchoux
Jean-Paul Hévin
La Maison du Chocolat
Patrick Roger
Patrice Chapon
Pierre Hermé
Pierre Marcolini

Pretty Close to Saint-Germain

Franck Kestener (eastern side of Luxembourg Gardens)
Michel Chaudun (near Chez l’Ami Jean)

 

 

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French coffee championships

Coutume & Lomi Trophy at Coffee Championships

One of the best things about last weekend’s Salon Success Food, other than the name itself, was the French Coffee Championship competition that was part of it.

BBS (which stands for Barista Bartender Solutions, a name that just screams Success Food) took home both 1st and 3rd place in the Barista competition, but Kevin Ayers from Coutume snagged 2nd place.

Coutume also picked up a 3rd place trophy for Latté Art (via Mati Touis), but Cafe Lomi‘s Magdalena Bronzinska took home 1st place for her foamy rendition of… what exactly? We wish we knew. But we do know that Café Lomi is organizing an atelier to learn Latté Art on March 29, and you can read more about it on their Facebook page.

Additional Links

 

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25 Est

Best Spots for Outdoor Sipping

When the weather is beautiful, head to one of these spots for leisurely outdoor drinking. You may want to ignore the nibbles here (if hungry, see our guide to outdoor dining) but these are all great settings for sipping en plein air.

Eastern & Northeastern Paris

le perchoir

Le Perchoir (75011) – Watch the sun set over Sacré-Coeur from this rooftop perch in Ménilmontant. A scene on the weekends.

Photo by malias via FlickrPhoto by malias via Flickr

Le Baron Rouge (75012) Join the rest of the neighborhood here on Sunday afternoons for a post-market glass of wine. Be prepared to use a curbside car as a perch for your glass.

Near the Canal

Cafe A

Café A (75010) A former convent provides sanctuary for those who’d like a peaceful drink near the garrulous Gare de l’Est.

La Pointe Ephemere

Point Ephémère (75010) – A canal-side drinking destination (live music inside) with occasional visits from Le Camion Qui Fume burger truck.

In or Around the Parc de Buttes Chaumont

Rosa Bonheur

Rosa Bonheur (75019) Absolute madness on the weekends, with hour-long lines to get in and a bouncer standing by. If you can’t deal, just bring a bottle of rosé and sip with friends on the grass nearby.

La Pavillon du Lac

Le Pavillon du Lac (75019) A collection of tables beneath the trees within the beautiful Parc des Buttes Chaumont. Much more relaxed and family-oriented than Rosa Bonheur.

o divin

O Divin (75019) They’ve recently transformed into a proper restaurant on Monday-Friday nights, but Saturdays revert to the old wine bar formula at this hidden treasure behind the park, and you can always show up for an early glass before dinner.

Bar Ourcq

BarOurcq (75019) Chaise lounges, pétanque, and inexpensive draft beers by the Bassin de la Villette. A total scene on the weekends.

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La Rotonde (75019) Hot pink tables and plenty of potted plants pepper the Place de Stalingrad, with a view of the Bassin de la Villette.

28° Est

25°Est (75019) Cheap pints on a large terrasse overlooking the Bassin de la Villette. What’s not to like?

Central Paris, Right Bank

Le Saut du Loup Terrasse

Le Saut du Loup (75001) Drink in the beautiful architecture of the Musée des Arts Decoratifs, then drink on the Philippe Boisselier designed terrace sandwiched between the Louvre and the Tuileries.

Café Marly (75001) As close as you can get to the Pyramide du Louvre without waiting in line for hours. It’s Costes, and therefore annoying, but damn, it’s pretty.

le delicieux

Le Déli-Cieux (75009) Shop till you drop at the Printemps department store, then quench your thirst atop the rooftop terrasse. It’s one of the best panoramic views in the city.

The Left Bank

La Pavillon de la Fontaine Luxembourg Gardens

Le Pavillon de la Fontaine (75006) Grab a rickety metal garden chair and soak up the dappled rays at this café inside the Luxembourg gardens.

nuba

Nuba (75013) This bar on the roof of Les Docks boasts a waterfront view, good music, and better food than you’ll find at most clubs.

Petit Bain

Le Petit Bain (75013) A neon green barge that is part concert venue, part restaurant, part floating terrace.

General Beuret

Le Général Beuret (75015) Friendly service and a smattering of sidewalk tables on a placid square right off the Rue Vaugirard. Happy Frites, a pint of beer or verre de vin alongside a plate of fries, is 5€ and runs every day from 6-8pm.

For Teetotalers (and Tea-totalers) 

Café Maure de la Mosquée de Paris (75005) Turns out they don’t serve alcohol at the mosque? So opt for a mint tea under the eucalyptus trees instead.

musee-de-la-vie-romantique

Un Thé Dans Le Jardin (75009) Practice the romantic arts in the shaded garden of the Musée de la Vie Romantique. It’s hard to find a prettier or more peaceful place for a cup of tea.

lheure gourmand

L’Heure Gourmande (75006) A quiet and cozy tea room with a few lovely tables on a cobbled passageway.

 

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Alec

Alexander Lobrano

Alexander Lobrano by Steven RothfeldAlexander Lobrano is the Consulting Features Editor for Paris by Mouth.

Alec was European Correspondent for Gourmet magazine from 1999 until it closed in 2009, and has written about food and travel for Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, Travel & Leisure, Departures, Conde Nast Traveler, and many other publications in the United States and the United Kingdom since he moved to Paris in 1986. He is a contributing editor at Saveur magazine and a regular contributor to the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, and the Guardian. In 2011, he was awarded the IACP’s Bert Greene award for culinary writing for his article “Spirit of the Bistro” in Saveur magazine. He is the author of Hungry for Paris: The Ultimate Guide to the City’s 109 Best Restaurants, Second Edition (Random House, 2014) and Hungry for France (Rizzoli, 2014).

Top 3 Paris Tastes

Website

Books

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F Simon

François Simon leaves Le Figaro

I heard a rumor about this a few weeks ago, and could hardly believe that one of this city’s most influential food critics was being “pushed out” of his post at Le Figaro. We have no idea whether he was actually pushed or chose to jump, but Simon has just confirmed on his blog that his review of the new Juveniles was his last for the newspaper.

He’s now throwing himself into his new blog, which features more videos, an illegible header font, and some content translated into English and Japanese. We’ll be following, and wish him all the best.

 

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beer bars

Our Guide to Craft Beer Bars & Shops

Paris Bars for Drinking Craft Beer

75001

Le Sous-Bock
Au Trappiste

75004

Les Dessous de Paris

75005

Académie de la Bière
Brewberry
L’Envol Québécois
Le Mayflower

75006

La Marine

75009

Dirty Dick
Glass

75011

La Fine Mousse 

75012

Express de Lyon 
Troll Café

75013

La Fût Gueuze

75014

Falstaff

75018

Le SuperCoin 

 

beer-shops

Paris Shops for Buying Craft Beer

75001

Bières Cultes

75002

Bière et Malt

75004

La Cave à Bulles 
La Moustache Blanche 

75005

Brewberry 

75011

Paris St-Bière

75012

Pommier

75014

Bootlegger
Chop’In

75018

Brasserie de la Goutte d’Or
People’s Drug Store

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