All posts by The Mouth

Porte 12 from André Chiang opens in the 10th

Porte 12 by Andre Chiang in ParisPhoto from the Porte 12 Facebook page

The Pourcel Brothers, Pudlo and Sophie Brissaud all announced over the weekend the arrival of Porte 12, the new restaurant signed by André Chiang. While the Singapore-based chef is certainly attached, it’s Vincent Crepel who will be running the kitchen after working for Chiang at his eponymous Restaurant André in Singapore (currently ranked #37 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list) 2014.

Another sign of the expanding gastro-gentrification in this neighborhood, Porte 12 has opened at 12 rue des Messageries in the 10th, a few steps from either Abri or Albion and a few blocks north of Vivant Table. The intimate space was previously a textile and lingerie atelier and is illuminated by corset-shaped chandeliers.

We haven’t yet been, and have no idea about prices or style of food (“a pure experience conceived on an honest and yet imaginative journey,” according to their website), but we’ll keep you posted.

Read the full article (in French) on the Pourcel Brothers’ Blog

 

Ducasse re-opens Plaza Athénée as vegetarian(ish)

ducasseLe Marché d’Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée

Alain Ducasse, who is is often described as the “most Michelin starred chef in the world,” lost some twinkle when his eponymous restaurant at the Plaza Athénée closed last year for renovations. It will reopen on Monday with a revamped décor by designer Patrick Jouin and a dramatically re-envisioned menu that celebrates fish, cereals and vegetables. No meat, or rather less meat.

The headlines have been rather splashy. The Guardian told us on Friday that “France’s top chef bans meat from the menu” after free transport rag Metronews reported on Thursday that “Avec Alain Ducasse, le Plaza Athénée devient végétarien.”

The same sort out headlines were trotted out back in 2001 when Alain Passard introduced his first vegetable inspired menu at L’Arpège. It wasn’t true then, and of course it isn’t true now that either chef has eliminated meat. Still, Ducasse’s focus on vegetables is certainly interesting. Is it sincere? Why here and not at any of the other 25+ restaurants in his collection? Is it a way to distinguish the Plaza Athénée from Le Meurice, whose three-star kitchens he is also overseeing?

If it is good, then all this cynicism will melt away (like cholesterol from a newly converted vegetarian’s heart).

Read the full article at The Guardian

Practical information and past reviews on our guide page for Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée

 

Septime alums to open new bistro in the 17th

bertrand grebaut septime marco gare au gorilleGrébaut’s former sous-chef Marco (at right) will be opening Gare au Gorille in October

Good news for people (like us) who have a hard time getting into Septime: two alums have joined forces to open a new bistro in October on the rue des Dames.

Marco, who was second to Bertrand Grébaut at the time of Septime’s opening, will be running the kitchen at Gare au Gorille. Louis, who is known by Septime fans as “the really tall and nice one,” will be taking care of the front of house.

Julien Duboué sells Dans les Landes, opens A Noste

dans les landesDans les Landes was sold in July

Earlier this summer, Julien Duboué sold his easy-going tapas restaurant Dans Les Landes (included in Our Guide to the Latin Quarter) in order to open a new place near the Bourse. A Noste opened this week at 6 bis rue du 4 Septembre, and John Talbott shared his enthusiasm in a review entitled “Wow, wow, wow, this place is hot, hot, hot.”

There is a taloa truck parked inside, and they seem to be serving the Basque corn tortilla snacks on the ground floor along with tapas and drinks. One floor up, they’re serving a fixed menu that features giant meat skewers carved table side.

As for Dans Les Landes, we haven’t been back since it was sold in July. However, we did revisit Afaria after Duboué sold it, and promptly removed it from our guide (it was terrible). Let’s hope Dans les Landes doesn’t sink in similar fashion.

 

 

Pierre Sang Boyer opens 2nd restaurant

After two years in Oberkampf, chef Pierre Sang (a former contestant on the French version of Top Chef) has opened a second location at 6 rue Gambey, 75011.

Just like his first restaurant, reservations are not accepted and hopeful diners should expect to put in plenty of time on the sidewalk. Open Tuesday-Saturday for dinner only. He tends not to stick to a single format, but for the moment is charging €49 for five small plates.

 

kraft singles from the jeepers flickr

Pasteurized Cheese Recalls in the U.S.

Just in time to ruin Labor Day barbecues in America, Kraft recalled over 7,500 cases of “pasteurized prepared cheese product” Kraft Singles due to storage temperature concerns. This is the third such recall this year for the company including a Velveetacheese stuffed hotdog and cottage cheese mishaps. Good thing it wasn’t raw milk…

You can find more info on the recalled products here.

Photo via Flickr by JeepersMedia

cocktails

Our Guide to Paris Cocktail Bars

Whether you’re looking for a nightcap or an apéro, an old fashioned hotel bar or a new wave dive, here’s our guide to the best craft cocktails organized by arrondissement. Happy tippling!

75001

Beef Club
Fish Club
Bar 228 at Le Meurice

75002

Experimental Cocktail Club 
Lockwood
Harry’s New York Bar
Silencio

75003

Candelaria 
Le Mary Celeste 
Grazie
Little Red Door

75004

Sherry Butt 

75005

Curio Parlour

75006

Prescription Cocktail Club

75008

Le Forum

75009

Artisan
Buvette
Dirty Dick 
Glass

75010

Le Coq

75011

L’Entrée des Artistes
Moonshiner
Red House

Café des Abattoirs in The New York Times

Café des Abattoirs (75001) Lindsey Tramuta reported on Café des Abattoirs in the Times this week, calling it a “modern grill-meets-Lyonnaise bouchon” run by the Rostang sisters who “uphold their father’s penchant for simple dishes prepared with top-tier ingredients, in a family-friendly environment that has a whiff of nostalgia… Despite a few missed opportunities — a short, predictable wine list and uninspired desserts — this is feel-good Rostang cooking at its finest.”

For practical information and additional reviews, see our guide page for Café des Abattoirs

Read the full review in The New York Times

Pietro from Retro’Bottega opens a new wine Squatt

Squatt (75011) Looking for an antidote to the ubiquitous Nicolas chain? Aaron Ayscough suggests the brand new “junkyardy wine shop and épicerie” from Pietro Russano, the owner of Retro’Bottega, which is “stuffed with unusual French and Italian selections, not to mention sincere personality… The selection is a 30% – 70% split between Italian and French wines.” Beware though as “Squatt’s French selection is presently a little patchy.”

Read the full review on Not Drinking Poison in Paris

Posh cocktails with a panoramic view

L’oiseau Blanc (75016) LiLi isn’t the only new opening at the Hotel Peninsula Paris, there’s also a rooftop bar with “360 degree view of Paris in a sophisticated and staid space. The drinks menu features around a dozen drinks ranging from appropriate classics (Aviation, anyone?) to twists on classics like their Take Off (gin, sweet vermouth and bitters). Here you’ll find the excellent service and hush hush feel that high-end hotels are known for.” Forrest Collins recommends going early as she suspects many of the best terrace seats are reserved for hotel guests.

Read the full review at 52 Martinis

Lobrano loves the new Cantonese LiLi

LiLi (75016) Alexander Lobrano thinks this brand new Cantonese restaurant will be one of the biggest hits of the rentrée with “an extravagant but carefully edited program of temptations that debuts with dim sum, including the juicy Shanghai style soup dumplings below and also other more delicate and tantalizing versions of the genre, including the lobster-stuffed caviar-dressed single dim-sum that was so good I ate it in one excited bite.”

Find practical information and additional reviews on our guide page for LiLi

Read the full review from Alexander Lobrano 

Yam’Tcha to close & relocate

Yam'Tcha Paris

Stephane Davet reports today that Yam’Tcha – the celebrated and nearly impossible-to-book restaurant from chef Adeline Grattard – will be closing at some point in the next few months in order to reopen in a larger space. The new restaurant will also be in the Les Halles neighborhood but will pass from 20 to 35 covers and have space for four cooks instead of three. Anyone who has seen their current set -up can understand why she might want some more elbow room in the kitchen.

Read the full story in Le Monde

 

Wine geek finds new refuge in Haut Marais

Monsieur Henri (75003) Natural wine scene fixture Dzine Breyet has opened a new wine bar in the haute Marais, featuring “harsh lighting, a low ceiling, and ill-advised primary-coloured wine storage cages,” according to Aaron Ayscough. However, “the value of a divey geek wine bar like Monsieur Henri lies in individualist eccentricities [like multiple Jura white being offered by the glass that night]. Monsieur Henri contains magnums of challenging wines. It offers cult eau de vie de cidre. It is perceptibly run by someone with a passionate investment in the scene.”

Read the full review at Not Drinking Poison in Paris

Bon Appétit reviews Le Comptoir nine years after it opens

Le Comptoir du Relais (75006) Editor-in-Chief Adam Rapoport acknowledges the (still) impossibility of scoring a reservation at Yves Camdeborde’s restaurant, and then gives it some more much-needed mainstream press coverage. The appeal for him lies in “the restaurant’s bustling, studio-apartment-size space, completely free of pretense in a city famous for pretense,” and the fact that “there is no menu—you eat whatever inventive, abundantly fresh, elevated bistro dishes Camdeborde chooses to cook that evening.” Also, the cheese (much of which comes, we’ve heard, from Twiggy’s place inside the covered Saint-Germain market): “Finally, there is the cheese board, oozing with only-in-France creations (and honey and quince jam and all that good stuff) that your waiter plunks down on the table after your meal and lets you have at it.”

For practical information and additional reviews, see our page for Le Comptoir du Relais

Read the full review from Bon Appétit

Aux Deux Cygnes wine bar opens on rue Keller

Aux Deux Cygnes (75011) Aaron Ayscough thought the pristine & professional wine bar could benefit from “a little more anarchy, a little more scuff on its polish,” but found that the wine list “by emphasizing outlier categories like Languedoc whites and Swiss reds, manages to retain interest without following trends or touting big names.”

Read the full review on Not Drinking Poison in Paris

washed rind and blue cheeses food tour Paris

Recently Devoured: Tastes from our Tours

While our stops and samples change with every tour (you’re not guaranteed to taste what’s pictured below), there’s always something delicious and photo-worthy. Here are some recently snapped tastes to share from our food & wine tours in Paris.
IMG_5599Goat cheese, while it’s still in season, Taste of the Left Bank

Charcuterie ParisBasque charcuterie, Taste of the Marais 

P1230621Seasonal mushrooms, Taste of the Latin Quarter

La Derniere Goutte ParisDiscovering French wine, Taste of Saint-Germain

IMG_7520Pâtes de fruit, Taste of the Marais 

Premiere Pression ProvenceSmall production AOC olive oils, Taste of the Left Bank

Patrick Roger chocolates in ParisChocolate boxes, Taste of Saint-Germain

IMG_7497Terrine and pâté en croute, Taste of the Marais 

 

maraisfoodtourchocolatefromjacquesgeninChocolate box, Taste of the Marais 

CharcuterieCharcuterie, Taste of the Left Bank 

IMG_3767Rustic apple tart, Taste of Saint-Germain

Cooked shrimpBite sized shrimp, Taste of the Latin Quarter

French cheese & wineThe big spread, French Cheese & Wine Workshop

Traditional loaves from PoilaneTraditional loaves, Taste of Saint-Germain


La Fine Mousse opens a restaurant pairing beer & food

La Fine Mousse Restaurant (75011) Kate Robinson visited La Fine Mousse’s new restaurant, which aims to “bring beer to the dinner table and prove that it’s a worthy companion to exceptional food.” There were “still a few wrinkles to iron out, especially considering the price point,” but “there’s no denying the quality of the ingredients or the creativity of the menu.”

Read the full review at Haven in Paris

Find additional reviews and practical information for the beer bar on our page for La Fine Mousse.

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Our Guide to Summer

We’ve rounded up our favorite outdoor destinations for dining, drinking, and picnicking, and let you know which restaurants will be open and closed in August.

What’s Open in August

Our Guide to Outdoor Dining

Monsieur-Bleu-e1374487034563

Our Guide to Outdoor Drinking

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Our Guide to Picnicking

paris picnic

Gyoza Bar opens new location in Marais

Gyoza Bar 2 (75003) – The Japanese dumpling bar now has a chic second location in the Haut Marais that Paris Bouge declared “tout comme dans l’autre restaurant… Cuisiné par des mains expertes sur un plan de travail tout en ouverture, ce petit chausson rapide en bouche, cuit à la vapeur et grillé d’un côté, se trempe dans une sauce soja-agrume parfaitement relevée.” What is different at this location, however, is flavored angel food cake roll-ups from Pâtisserie Ciel for dessert.

For practical information and additional reviews, read our guide page for Gyoza Bar 2.

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Best Picnic Spots & Provisions in Paris

Paris is packed with ideal picnic locations, but where to buy the food and wine? Here are our selection of the best stops for portable provisions (cheese, charcuterie, breads, sweets, prepared foods and bottles) near our favorite picnic spots.

Our Favorite Picnic Spots in Paris

Click on any of our favorite picnic places below for our map showing where to buy your food and wine at each location.

Picnicking at the Sacré-CœurAt the Sacré-Cœur

2695777756_4d11b56d6e_oAlong the Seine

Canal Saint-MartinCanal Saint-Martin

Photo by Dewet via Flickr Champ de Mars (photo via Dewet/Flickr)

Tuileries Palais Royal Palais Royal/The Tuileries (photo via Dalbera/Flickr)

invalides-e1403525719945Esplanade des Invalides

2705502231_d136f84a5d-e1372745672332Luxembourg Gardens (photo by Nadya Peek via Flickr)

4275615569_c166ceeea3Parcs des Buttes-Chaumont and de la Villete

Place-des-Vosges Place des Vosges

Some tips for a pique-nique Parisien:

  • Those whistles you hear in the parks late at night? They’re important. They’re the last call for frolicking before the gates close and you will get locked in the park if you dally too long.
  • It’s perfectly acceptable to borrow a tire-bouchon (corkscrew) from a picnic neighbor if you find yourself without an opener. Or ask your wine shopkeeper to open and re-cork your bottle.
  • Drinking is fine in public places. Except these public places.
  • Cheap blankets and disposable serveware can be found at any grocery store. Plastic cups (aka gobelets) can also be bought by the sleeve or individual piece at most bodegas.

Other Warm Weather Posts: 

Chefs Michael Greenwold and James Whelan of The Sunken Chip in Paris | parisbymouth.com

The Sunken Chip

Michael Greenwold of Roseval and James Whelan of L’Inconnu have teamed up to open the first dedicated fish and chips shop in Paris. Hake, pollock or catch of the day are available alongside thick chips and mushy peas. Pickled eggs, fish nuggets, chip butties (french fry sandwiches) and candies from across the chunnel make for an authentic Brit experience.

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Pork belly at La Regalade Conservatoire restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

La Régalade Conservatoire

Chef Bruno Doucet took over La Régalade from his boss Yves Camdeborde in 2004, then added La Régalade Saint Honoré in 2010. This third location, part of a new boutique hotel designed by Jean-Michel Wilmotte, opened in February 2013 and is serving classic Doucet bistro fare like house-made terrine, pork belly with lentils, sea bream with fennel, rice pudding, and a Grand Marnier soufflé. Affordably priced with prix-fixe menus at lunch (26€) and dinner (35€).

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Kouign Amann at La Pointe du Groin restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

La Pointe du Grouin

Named for a pig’s snout (and not its other end), this dirt-cheap Breton wine bar is sandwiched between Thierry Breton’s two other eateries Chez Michel and Chez Casimir.  Don’t worry if you don’t understand the system–it’s not clear that there is one. Just sidle up to the bar, let them know how hungry you are, and wait for the small plates to roll out. Expect hearty regional fare including breaded pig snout with tapenade and braised oxtail with celery root purée, plus spot-on desserts like chocolate kouign amann and prune-studded far breton.  On the beverage front, it’s wines by the magnum and box wine that isn’t atrocious. The small-plates lunch is augmented by excellent sandwiches on Breton’s own bread with ingredients like house-smoked salmon, raw cream and piment d’Espelette. These can be packed to-go for travelers headed to the nearby Gare du Nord.

  An absolute favorite

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Pirouette restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Pirouette

Chef Tomy Gousset passed through the kitchens of Le Meurice and Daniel Bouloud (NYC) before opening this stunning new restaurant in the underserved district just north of Les Halles. Serious technique is brought to bear on beautiful veggies and offal alike. The consistently delicious dishes, the polished room and the very good wine list all add up to something that’s much greater than the bargain prices should allow. There’s a prix fixe at lunch for only 15€, and diners can go à la carte at lunch or dinner for 36€. Recommended.

 An absolute favorite

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Jules et Shim by Catherine Down

Jules et Shim

Be prepared to bibimbap it by the Canal as there are only two tiny tables at this Truffaut film-inspired Korean takeaway. Kimbap or lukewarm bibimbap available with your choice of shrimp, beef bulgogi, spiced pork or simply veg. Make sure to ask for the sauce piquante. There’s also a 4-person picnic prix fixe for 44€.

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Restaurant David Toutain in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Restaurant David Toutain

David Toutain is back. The much lauded chef, who brought acclaim to Agapé Substance before jumping ship back in December 2012, returned with his own place during the last days of 2013.  His meticulous and conceptual cooking highlights seasonal produce, with vegetables often playing the starring role. This is by no means a vegetarian restaurant, but Toutain’s ability to bring out the beauty in oft-ignored roots reminds us of his former boss Alain Passard. Tasting menus range from 42€ at lunch to 98€ for the most extensive menu (available at lunch or dinner). Wine pairings – thoughtfully done – are available for another 40-50€.

 An absolute favorite

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