All posts by The Mouth

Lobrano loves the new Cantonese LiLi

LiLi (75016) Alexander Lobrano thinks this brand new Cantonese restaurant will be one of the biggest hits of the rentrée with “an extravagant but carefully edited program of temptations that debuts with dim sum, including the juicy Shanghai style soup dumplings below and also other more delicate and tantalizing versions of the genre, including the lobster-stuffed caviar-dressed single dim-sum that was so good I ate it in one excited bite.”

Find practical information and additional reviews on our guide page for LiLi

Read the full review from Alexander Lobrano 

Yam’Tcha to close & relocate

Yam'Tcha Paris

Stephane Davet reports today that Yam’Tcha – the celebrated and nearly impossible-to-book restaurant from chef Adeline Grattard – will be closing at some point in the next few months in order to reopen in a larger space. The new restaurant will also be in the Les Halles neighborhood but will pass from 20 to 35 covers and have space for four cooks instead of three. Anyone who has seen their current set -up can understand why she might want some more elbow room in the kitchen.

Read the full story in Le Monde

 

Wine geek finds new refuge in Haut Marais

Monsieur Henri (75003) Natural wine scene fixture Dzine Breyet has opened a new wine bar in the haute Marais, featuring “harsh lighting, a low ceiling, and ill-advised primary-coloured wine storage cages,” according to Aaron Ayscough. However, “the value of a divey geek wine bar like Monsieur Henri lies in individualist eccentricities [like multiple Jura white being offered by the glass that night]. Monsieur Henri contains magnums of challenging wines. It offers cult eau de vie de cidre. It is perceptibly run by someone with a passionate investment in the scene.”

Read the full review at Not Drinking Poison in Paris

Bon Appétit reviews Le Comptoir nine years after it opens

Le Comptoir du Relais (75006) Editor-in-Chief Adam Rapoport acknowledges the (still) impossibility of scoring a reservation at Yves Camdeborde’s restaurant, and then gives it some more much-needed mainstream press coverage. The appeal for him lies in “the restaurant’s bustling, studio-apartment-size space, completely free of pretense in a city famous for pretense,” and the fact that “there is no menu—you eat whatever inventive, abundantly fresh, elevated bistro dishes Camdeborde chooses to cook that evening.” Also, the cheese (much of which comes, we’ve heard, from Twiggy’s place inside the covered Saint-Germain market): “Finally, there is the cheese board, oozing with only-in-France creations (and honey and quince jam and all that good stuff) that your waiter plunks down on the table after your meal and lets you have at it.”

For practical information and additional reviews, see our page for Le Comptoir du Relais

Read the full review from Bon Appétit

Aux Deux Cygnes wine bar opens on rue Keller

Aux Deux Cygnes (75011) Aaron Ayscough thought the pristine & professional wine bar could benefit from “a little more anarchy, a little more scuff on its polish,” but found that the wine list “by emphasizing outlier categories like Languedoc whites and Swiss reds, manages to retain interest without following trends or touting big names.”

Read the full review on Not Drinking Poison in Paris

washed rind and blue cheeses food tour Paris

Recently Devoured: Tastes from our Tours

While our stops and samples change with every tour (you’re not guaranteed to taste what’s pictured below), there’s always something delicious and photo-worthy. Here are some recently snapped tastes to share from our food & wine tours in Paris.
IMG_5599Goat cheese, while it’s still in season, Taste of the Left Bank

Charcuterie ParisBasque charcuterie, Taste of the Marais 

P1230621Seasonal mushrooms, Taste of the Latin Quarter

La Derniere Goutte ParisDiscovering French wine, Taste of Saint-Germain

IMG_7520Pâtes de fruit, Taste of the Marais 

Premiere Pression ProvenceSmall production AOC olive oils, Taste of the Left Bank

Patrick Roger chocolates in ParisChocolate boxes, Taste of Saint-Germain

IMG_7497Terrine and pâté en croute, Taste of the Marais 

 

maraisfoodtourchocolatefromjacquesgeninChocolate box, Taste of the Marais 

CharcuterieCharcuterie, Taste of the Left Bank 

IMG_3767Rustic apple tart, Taste of Saint-Germain

Cooked shrimpBite sized shrimp, Taste of the Latin Quarter

French cheese & wineThe big spread, French Cheese & Wine Workshop

Traditional loaves from PoilaneTraditional loaves, Taste of Saint-Germain


La Fine Mousse opens a restaurant pairing beer & food

La Fine Mousse Restaurant (75011) Kate Robinson visited La Fine Mousse’s new restaurant, which aims to “bring beer to the dinner table and prove that it’s a worthy companion to exceptional food.” There were “still a few wrinkles to iron out, especially considering the price point,” but “there’s no denying the quality of the ingredients or the creativity of the menu.”

Read the full review at Haven in Paris

Find additional reviews and practical information for the beer bar on our page for La Fine Mousse.

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Our Guide to Summer

We’ve rounded up our favorite outdoor destinations for dining, drinking, and picnicking, and let you know which restaurants will be open and closed in August.

What’s Open in August

Our Guide to Outdoor Dining

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Our Guide to Outdoor Drinking

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Our Guide to Picnicking

paris picnic

Gyoza Bar opens new location in Marais

Gyoza Bar 2 (75003) – The Japanese dumpling bar now has a chic second location in the Haut Marais that Paris Bouge declared “tout comme dans l’autre restaurant… Cuisiné par des mains expertes sur un plan de travail tout en ouverture, ce petit chausson rapide en bouche, cuit à la vapeur et grillé d’un côté, se trempe dans une sauce soja-agrume parfaitement relevée.” What is different at this location, however, is flavored angel food cake roll-ups from Pâtisserie Ciel for dessert.

For practical information and additional reviews, read our guide page for Gyoza Bar 2.

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Best Picnic Spots & Provisions in Paris

Paris is packed with ideal picnic locations, but where to buy the food and wine? Here are our selection of the best stops for portable provisions (cheese, charcuterie, breads, sweets, prepared foods and bottles) near our favorite picnic spots.

Our Favorite Picnic Spots in Paris

Click on any of our favorite picnic places below for our map showing where to buy your food and wine at each location.

Picnicking at the Sacré-CœurAt the Sacré-Cœur

2695777756_4d11b56d6e_oAlong the Seine

Canal Saint-MartinCanal Saint-Martin

Photo by Dewet via Flickr Champ de Mars (photo via Dewet/Flickr)

Tuileries Palais Royal Palais Royal/The Tuileries (photo via Dalbera/Flickr)

invalides-e1403525719945Esplanade des Invalides

2705502231_d136f84a5d-e1372745672332Luxembourg Gardens (photo by Nadya Peek via Flickr)

4275615569_c166ceeea3Parcs des Buttes-Chaumont and de la Villete

Place-des-Vosges Place des Vosges

Some tips for a pique-nique Parisien:

  • Those whistles you hear in the parks late at night? They’re important. They’re the last call for frolicking before the gates close and you will get locked in the park if you dally too long.
  • It’s perfectly acceptable to borrow a tire-bouchon (corkscrew) from a picnic neighbor if you find yourself without an opener. Or ask your wine shopkeeper to open and re-cork your bottle.
  • Drinking is fine in public places. Except these public places.
  • Cheap blankets and disposable serveware can be found at any grocery store. Plastic cups (aka gobelets) can also be bought by the sleeve or individual piece at most bodegas.

Other Warm Weather Posts: 

Eggplant with Brie. Photo by Aaron Ayscough.

Encore

Brand-name suppliers (Joel Thiebault, Quatrehommes, Annie Bertin, Hugo Desnoyers, Christophe Vasseur, Terroirs d’Avenir) and natural wines are the backbone of this trend-heavy, but pleasant, modern French bistro helmed by the young Japanese chef Yoshi Morie.

Practical information

Address: 43 rue Richer, 75009
Nearest transport: Cadet (7), Grands Boulevards (8, 9)
Hours: Lunch and dinner Monday-Friday; closed Saturday & Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 72 60 97 72
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “L’adresse ne manque pas de zèle mais, à s’y attarder, dans ses tics et détails, il ne serait pas interdit de commencer à se lasser d’un bon ton devenu filon.”

Philippe Toinard (2013) “Et qui fait le buzz, serions-nous tenté d’ajouter ! Réseaux sociaux et blogosphère se sont enflammés pour cette adresse ouverte pendant l’été, et ce pour une unique raison, la présence en cuisine de Yoshi Morie que certains ont connu au Petit Verdot (6e). À tous les écouter et les lire, il a un talent fou. Certainement, mais à condition de goûter sa cuisine au dîner, parce qu’au déjeuner, c’est bon mais ça ne mérite pas tout ce tintamarre. Or, on attend d’un chef que sa cuisine soit aussi séduisante au déjeuner qu’au dîner.”

Adrian Moore (2013) “had one of the best meals of the pre-rentrée: 30€ for three delicious courses: a bright, crunchy mussels and cauliflower starter flavored with a vadouvan emulsion (French/Indian spice mix), and main course of monkfish with mixed cooked and raw vegetables (broccoli, burnt aubergine), all dishes doing a perfect job of creating layers of comforting taste and washed down with well chosen wines from our charming waitress. The dessert was the best I’ve had this season: a violet and fig compote with a Timut pepper sorbet.”

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “The only things I’m likely to remember about this place in two week’s time are the soulful icon of the smooth old wooden butcher’s block incorporated into the bar, the excellent white Gaillac we drank, the exceptionally alert and friendly service…I don’t doubt that Yoshi Morie is a sincere and talented chef, but I’d want him to find his own unique culinary signature and dare some livelier music on the plate before I returned for an encore, especially at these prices.”

John Talbott (2013) “This was chow worth schlepping 30 minutes for.”

Aaron Ayscough (2013) “And a plat of monkfish, chanterelles, and sea snails was a singularly intense marriage of forest and sea, like a walk in a public park in Atlantis. Every ingredient was in magnificent form: the monkfish flesh rich but not chewy, the chanterelles hauntingly bright and peachy.”

Chefs Michael Greenwold and James Whelan of The Sunken Chip in Paris | parisbymouth.com

The Sunken Chip

Michael Greenwold of Roseval and James Whelan of L’Inconnu have teamed up to open the first dedicated fish and chips shop in Paris. Hake, pollock or catch of the day are available alongside thick chips and mushy peas. Pickled eggs, fish nuggets, chip butties (french fry sandwiches) and candies from across the chunnel make for an authentic Brit experience.

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Pork belly at La Regalade Conservatoire restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

La Régalade Conservatoire

Chef Bruno Doucet took over La Régalade from his boss Yves Camdeborde in 2004, then added La Régalade Saint Honoré in 2010. This third location, part of a new boutique hotel designed by Jean-Michel Wilmotte, opened in February 2013 and is serving classic Doucet bistro fare like house-made terrine, pork belly with lentils, sea bream with fennel, rice pudding, and a Grand Marnier soufflé. Affordably priced with prix-fixe menus at lunch (26€) and dinner (35€).

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Fish Club Exterior

Fish Club

This outpost from the ECC crew (just down the street from its meat-centric sister spot Beef Club), is a sleek fish joint with a South American twist. Crab cakes, ceviches, tinned fish, oysters and other seafood small plates are accompanied by a tight list of pisco based cocktails and interesting French beers.

Practical information

Address: 58 rue Jean Jacques Rousseau, 75001
Nearest transport: Les Halles (4)
Hours: Open every day; dinner only
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 40 26 68 75
E-mail: reservation@eccfishclub.com
Average price for cocktail: 12€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: South american, oysters & fruit des mer
Website

Reviews of interest

Emmanuel Rubin “Les façons tapas remplacent les assiettes XXL et, Amérique contre Amérique, plutôt que l’influence yankee, la cuisine verse dans les ceviches, tiraditos et autres miniatures péruviennes, mélange de cru et de grill, d’épices et d’agrumes, de naturel et d’énergique, que l’internationale foodeuse plébiscite désormais. Pour le reste, mêmes punitions, mêmes motifs: cocktails et flacons inspirés, additions pimentées, public impatient de s’y coincer, service et carnet de résa asphyxiés.”

Le Fooding (2013) “Notre préféré? Le Fish Club : combinaison de maigre de ligne, leche de tigre (marinade du ceviche opacifié par les sucs de poisson cru)calamar frit, oignon rouge, patate douce, maïs frit et piment aji amarillo.”

World’s Best Bars (2013) “There’s a South American influence in the drinks list with pisco-based cocktails featuring prominently – and their drink prices are pretty reasonable, especially given the quality. There’s also a decent selection of wines to choose from, mainly white, as well as a menu full of fresh, vibrant dishes, like Peruvian ceviche (in keeping with the Latin American theme), oysters, crabcakes and caviar.”

 

Kouign Amann at La Pointe du Groin restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

La Pointe du Grouin

Named for a pig’s snout (and not its other end), this dirt-cheap Breton wine bar is sandwiched between Thierry Breton’s two other eateries Chez Michel and Chez Casimir.  Don’t worry if you don’t understand the system–it’s not clear that there is one. Just sidle up to the bar, let them know how hungry you are, and wait for the small plates to roll out. Expect hearty regional fare including breaded pig snout with tapenade and braised oxtail with celery root purée, plus spot-on desserts like chocolate kouign amann and prune-studded far breton.  On the beverage front, it’s wines by the magnum and box wine that isn’t atrocious. The small-plates lunch is augmented by excellent sandwiches on Breton’s own bread with ingredients like house-smoked salmon, raw cream and piment d’Espelette. These can be packed to-go for travelers headed to the nearby Gare du Nord.

  An absolute favorite

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Photo via Bistrot Belhara's Facebook page

Bistrot Belhara

Picture perfect Parisian bistro with Basque-inflected food from Thierry Dufroux, who sharpened his teeth at Alain Ducasse, Bernard Loiseau, Michel Guérard, and Bistro Volnay. The restaurant can be reserved privately for large groups on Sundays and Mondays.

Practical information

Address: 27 rue Duvivier, 75007
Nearest transport: École Militaire (8), La Tour-Maubourg (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 45 51 41 77
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French, Basque
Website

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “Casually elegant, technically perfect, and respectfully traditional with a tweak of irreverence to make it his own. Small wonder then that this restaurant has so impressively established itself as a neighborhood favorite within months of opening, and this while walking the tight-rope of an affluent but reflexively parsimonious clientele who are wary of anything that wanders too wide of the mark of traditional French food.

Thierry Richard (2013) “Le Bistrot Belhara possède tous les attributs du petit caboulot parisien comme on les aime, le décor aux accents familiers (bar, banquette de velours rouge, carreaux de ciment, menu à l’ardoise), le patron en cuisine à la bonne humeur communicative, le service de tabliers noirs à la connivence facile, ses ambiances de province bourgeoise, bien mise, sûre d’elle et sereine, savoureuse.”

Slate (2013) “Toutes ces préparations exactes, mitonnées avec amour, figurent au menu à 35 euros avec quelques suppléments. On est loin du bistrot de quartier, on est en présence d’un singulier passionné des casseroles qui sait réjouir les hôtes et emballer les saveurs comme dans un grand restaurant.”

John Talbott (2013) “It was scores-ville; a wonderful warm “rustic” pate en croute with foie gras and duck and a rich red wine sauce and sweetbreads just like I love them – crispy outside, moist inside with perfectly cooked teeny tiny potatoes.”

François-Régis Gaudry (2013)”Sans aucun doute l’une des révélations 2013! On n’avait pas senti depuis des mois tant de coeur à l’ouvrage, de sincérité et de précision d’exécution dans un zinc de moins de 30 couverts.”

Philippe Toinard (2013) “Une remarquable épaule de lapin confite au romarin…ça n’est en rien comparable au riz au lait, noisettes et marmelade d’abricots qui pourrait postuler, s’il existait, au trophée du meilleur riz au lait.”

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “Girolles, œuf mollet, lard: d’une rondeur «sur sapide». Coques, palourdes au vin blanc, poulpe et encornets à l’ail: gagnerait à ne pas s’assortir de spaghetti. Caneton croisé frotté au piment d’Espelette: rassurant.”

 

Pirouette restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Pirouette

Chef Tomy Gousset passed through the kitchens of Le Meurice and Daniel Bouloud (NYC) before opening this stunning new restaurant in the underserved district just north of Les Halles. Serious technique is brought to bear on beautiful veggies and offal alike. The consistently delicious dishes, the polished room and the very good wine list all add up to something that’s much greater than the bargain prices should allow. There’s a prix fixe at lunch for only 15€, and diners can go à la carte at lunch or dinner for 36€. Recommended.

 An absolute favorite

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Jules et Shim by Catherine Down

Jules et Shim

Be prepared to bibimbap it by the Canal as there are only two tiny tables at this Truffaut film-inspired Korean takeaway. Kimbap or lukewarm bibimbap available with your choice of shrimp, beef bulgogi, spiced pork or simply veg. Make sure to ask for the sauce piquante. There’s also a 4-person picnic prix fixe for 44€.

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Restaurant David Toutain (photo Meg Zimbeck)

Restaurant David Toutain

David Toutain is back. The much lauded chef, who brought acclaim to Agapé Substance before jumping ship back in December 2012, returned with his own place during the last days of 2013.  His meticulous and conceptual cooking highlights seasonal produce, with vegetables often playing the starring role. This is by no means a vegetarian restaurant, but Toutain’s ability to bring out the beauty in oft-ignored roots reminds us of his former boss Alain Passard. Tasting menus range from 42€ at lunch to 98€ for the most extensive menu (available at lunch or dinner). Wine pairings – thoughtfully done – are available for another 40-50€.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 29 rue Surcouf, 75007
Nearest transport: Invalides (8)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance at reservation@davidtoutain.com
Telephone: 01 45 51 11 10
Average price for lunch: 40-59€
Average price for dinner: 60-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

Sugared & Spiced (2014) “Clever, beautiful small plates made up of pristine ingredients.”

François-Régis Gaudry for L’Express (2014) “Retenez le nom de ce chef surdoué: il va faire le tour du monde.”

Adrian Moore (2014) ” His surprise menus are inventive, eclectic, and hyper-seasonal.”

Philippe Toinard for A Nous Paris (2014) “Reconnaissons à ce trentenaire sa capacité à tout maîtriser, les différentes cuissons, la transformation des produits bruts en mille et une textures (bouillon de pelures de pommes de terre, poudre de fenouil ou mousse de speck), et ce sens de l’association osée (huître et kiwi/œuf, maïs et caramel/chocolat blanc, chou-fleur et glace au lait de coco).”

Patricia Wells (2014) “David Toutain is a cerebral chef. Nothing is accidental and when you enter his brand new 7tharrondissement restaurant you are subject to his rules and his way of thinking. Yet you never feel as though your arm is being twisted. This is not a restaurant for a casual meal, but rather one that is meticulously planned and thought out, and begs for, yes deserves,  your attention. And it’s well worth your time.”

Alexander Lobrano for T Magazine (2014) “The rhythm of the prix-fixe menu, which changes daily, is intentionally varied. Toutain composes meals so that a quiet dish, like seared foie gras in baked potato bouillon with black truffles, sets up the drama of another dish meant to dazzle, like a monochromatic white composition of cuttlefish with yuba (bean-curd sheet) and nearly translucent Parmesan gnocchi, seasoned with the juice extracted from cooking the cheese at a very low temperature for many hours.”

Le Fooding (2014) “Chez lui, Toutain joue en sourdine. Décor aéré presque sévère (bois, béton, aplats gris), service cravaté et… carte muette ! Tout commence par une page blanche – une table en bois massif qui s’habille pièce à pièce : serviette, verres, cailloux, coupelles, terres cuites.”

John Talbott (2013) “Any striking plusses? The wonderful warmth of the newly gathered staff (quite astonishing). The innovative, consistent, explosive food.”

Additional images

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Oysters with kiwi

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Gnocchi with foie gras, black truffle, and potato skin broth

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Pork cooked in a crust flecked with coffee beans, served with orange, carrot and potimarron

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Cabillaud (cod) with broccoli and pil pil

IMG_5231

24 month Comté with black truffle

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Candied topinambour (Jerusalem artichoke) with crème de praline and topinambour ice cream

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Poire confit (candied pear)

La Maison du Chou exterior | parisbymouth.com

La Maison du Chou

In a pretty place tucked behind the abbey of Saint-Germain, MOF Manuel Martinez is producing tender cream puffs that are filled to order. Never soggy, not too sweet, and piped with a tangy filling based on fromage blanc and flavored with vanilla (nature), coffee or chocolate. A single puff is 1.70€ (about the same price as a macaron from the nearby Ladurée), or you can buy 3 for 5€, 6 for 12€ or 12 for 18€. A few tables provide a place to sip the coffee and tea that are also for sale.

Practical information

Address: 7 rue de Furstenberg, 75006
Nearest transport: Mabillon (10) or Saint-Germain (4,10)
Hours: Open Tuesday-Sunday from 11am-7pm
Telephone: 09 54 75 06 05
Website

Additional locations

Address: 5 rue Jean du Bellay, 75004
Nearest transport: Pont Marie (7)
Hours: Open every day from 11am-7pm

Reviews of interest

Sous Style (2013) An interview with Kansas-born manager Emma Gilkeson: “Our choux are different because, first of all, we fill them as you order them, in order to keep a crunchy texture of the pâte. Second, our cream isn’t a heavy  crème patissiere, it consists of mousse-like texture and a balance of sugar and fromage blanc.”

Le Figaro (2013) “Une adorable échoppe sur l’une des plus ravissantes places de Paris et un chou garni minute devant vos yeux. Une fois de plus, il s’agit d’une histoire de transmission, d’héritage gourmand pour ce cuisinier qui souhaitait aussi retrouver le goût des douceurs grand-maternelles.”

Caroline Mignot (2013) “Cette placette est l’une des plus charmantes de Paris selon moi, il y a une ambiance très particulière, une tranquilité que l’on ne trouve nulle part ailleurs, les arbres (des paulownias, arbres d’ornement originaire de Chine et de Corée), le lampadaire à cinq globes, les constructions basses, tout semble différent et surtout figé dans le temps….Voici mon préféré, le nature. Une crème mousseuse à base d’oeufs, d’un sirop de sucre et de fromage blanc, ce qui lui confère une saveur acidulée et une légèreté extra.”

Our Guide to Normandy

Normandy-Cow

Activities for Food Lovers

Musée de Camembert (in Vimoutiers)

Delicious Normandy Food Tours (in Bayeux)

Restaurants

Le Vauban (in Port-en-Bessin-Huppain)

Auberge le Clos Saint Julien (in Saint-Julien-sur-Calonne)

Manoir de la Drôme (in Balleroy)

Restaurant La Sapinière (in Saint-Laurent-sur-Mer)

La Rotonde (in Port-en-Bessin-Huppain)

Cheese & Dairy

La Fromagerie Graindorge (in Livarot)

Coopérative Isigny Sainte-Mère (in Isigny-sur-Mer)

La Fromagerie de Bayeux (in Bayeux)

Wine & Cider

Cave Cidricole Lecornu (in Bayeux)

La Ferme de la Sapinière (in Saint-Laurent-sur-Mer)

Le Volet Qui Penche (in Bayeux)

Markets

Saturday Market in Bayeux

Sweets

Biscuiterie Les Sablés d’Asnelles (in Asnelles-sur-Mer)

Pâtisserie la Reine Mathilde (in Bayeux)

 

 

Monsieur Bleu

Our Guide to Outdoor Dining

Casual favorites with outdoor seating 

O DivinÔ Divin

  • Ô Divin – A pocket sized restaurant near the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont with a hidden courtyard, natural wines, and interesting food. Saturday nights are a small plates wine bar format. Monday is pork couscous. Tuesday-Friday nights feature ambitious and mostly successful modern plates from young chef Mathieu Moity.
  • Will – There’s a smattering of lime green chairs on the sidewalk at this brand new modern bistro near the Aligre market.
  • Le Square Gardette – A taxidermized haven with a handful of outdoor tables, it’s Bobo paradise on a sunny day.
  • Café dei Cioppi – A cobbled terrasse tucked away in a quiet passage just east of Bastille. Almost universally adored, this tiny spot, hidden from the street, is the Italian restaurant everyone wishes were in their neighborhood. Booking imperative.
  • Le Comptoir du Relais – Yves Camdeborde’s beloved bistro, once neo and now classic, has several sidewalk tables. Book months in advance for weeknight, no-choice dinner, or just queue up at lunch or weekends for the so-called “brasserie menu”.
  • Chez Michel – This Breton bistrominique near the Gare du Nord serves a four course feast featuring dishes that are baked in a massive dining room oven. A few outdoor tables are available as well.
  • Chez Casimir – This bustling annex of Chez Michel offers some sidewalk seating along with hearty seasonal cooking and a heavy dose of old Paris charm.
  • Philou – There are a few sheltered seats outside one of our favorite absolute favorite bistros. Chef Philippe Damas showcases some of the season’s best ingredients.
  • Maria Luisa – A popular one for pizza near the canal, with outdoor seating.
  • Nanashi in Saint-Germain – A dappled courtyard inside the Bonpoint boutique featuring colorful, Japanese-inflected salads, soups, and small plates, as well as a decidedly non-Japanese coffee cream tart, courtesy of a Rose Bakery alum.
  • Le Bal Café – At this café/exhibition space on a quiet impasse near Place de Clichy, a pair of former Rose Bakery cooks are giving modern British cooking a very good name, and a serious barista is serving some of the best coffee in town. We like the handful of seats in a quiet, sunny spot facing an outdoor playground.
  • La Fontaine de Mars – Breezy indoor/outdoor dining at this perpetual favorite.  This mainstay on the crowded rue Saint-Dominique, offers classic cooking with a southwestern tilt. Open every day.
  • Nüba- Probably the best nightclub food in all of Paris. The décor is somewhat sterile, but it barely matters when the backdrop is a waterfront view from the rooftop of Les Docks.
  • La Rotonde – Snag a sidewalk seat at this classic Montparnasse café and brasserie. They serve standards like onion soup and steak tartare all day long.
  • Le Marché des Enfants Rouges – The oldest covered market in the city is also one of the most unusual. There are fruits, flowers, fish, but more importantly, several tiny international restaurants which serve only at lunchtime. The Moroccan stand with its heaps of couscous and fruit-studded tajines is our favorite. Enjoy a cup of mint tea at one of their tiled tables and soak up some sun in the midst of the bustling market. There’s also a fish & chips station, a colorful French brunch destination, Japanese bento boxes and more.

Posh & beautiful with really good food

Le Mini Palais - outdoor terrasseLe Mini Palais

  • Le Mini Palais – Towering columns, palm trees, spacious seating… c’est la classe. Eric Fréchon of the Bristol is the consulting chef of this contemporary, chic brasserie.
  • Les Climats – Go for the sweet, shady terrasse (only open at lunch) but stay for the all-Burgundy wine list.
  • La Grand Cascade – Gorgeous forest-side dining at this Michelin one-star in a grand pavilion in the Bois de Boulogne.
  • Napoleone – The latest addition from Chef Christian Etchebest (from the Cantines de la Cigaledu Troquet & du Troquet Dupleix) is better than most of what you’ll find along the Champs-Élysées. The neo-bistrot has a striking terrace, a classic menu and is open late.
  • Laurent – Luxury and history come together at Laurent, where you can dine in the former hunting lodge of Louis XIV or, better yet, at a table in the garden. Fine dining, fine setting.
  • Drouant – A collection of plant-protected outdoor tables, smack in the city center. Facing a very pretty square, Drouant has been around since 1880. Now run by Antoine Westermann, the menu offers elegantly updated classics with an emphasis on seafood.
  • Chamarre Montmartre – Chef Antoine Heerah draws from the flavors and ingredients of his native Mauritius — and all around the Indian ocean — and fuses them with French technique.

Extraordinary settings with just average food

Monsieur Bleu

Monsieur Bleu (photo courtesy of their Facebook page)

  • Monsieur Bleu – The food leaves a little something to be desired, but with one of the best views of the Eiffel Tower in all of Paris, the terrace is showstopping.
  • Hotel Amour – Fashion types flock to to this boutique hotel for lunch in the secluded back garden.
  • Mama Shelter – Picnic tables, hammocks, lounges and comfort food are on offer at this rooftop terrace at the boutique hotel in the 20th.
  • La Terrasse – Lunch with a view, atop the Galeries Lafayette department store.
  • Rosa Bonheur – The mood goes from picnic to party as the day progresses at this pavillion in the Parc des Buttes Chaumont. Small plates, straightforward plats du jour and drinks.
  • Les Trois Garçons - The service is lackadaisical but congenial, and the food is often uneven, but the large, shady terrace is one of the nicest in the neighborhood and they’re open all day, every day.

Le Servan opens & everyone talks about the chef’s boyfriend

Aaron Ayscough clocks the first review of the long-awaited Le Servan from sister duo Tatiana (formerly Arpège & Astrance) and Katia Levha. He’s impressed:  “Almost every component of my meal at Le Servan was sterling, a tour de force of talent and good taste.”

John Talbott calls chef Levha the “very attractive Filipino… consort of Bertrand Grebaut (of Septime),” which hurts us inside. Apparently he likes this, naming Le Servan “the best prix-qualité ratio of the year 2014.” Talbott isn’t alone in tittering about Levha’s love life: the number of writers who have managed to review this restaurant without mentioning the chef’s boyfriend can be counted on three fingers.

Read the full review from Not Drinking Poison in Paris and John Talbott

For practical information and additional reviews, read our page on Le Servan.

About the Mouth

Our Staff

Meg Z pic

Meg Zimbeck, Founder & Editor-in-Chief

Catherine Down

Catherine Down, Assistant Editor

sara

Sara Garcia, Director of Food & Wine Tours

francesca

Francesca Hansen, Director of Development

Our Contributing Editors

Aaron Ayscough

Aaron Ayscough

Alexander Lobrano

Alexander Lobrano

Clotilde Dusoulier

Clotilde Dusoulier

Phyllis Flick

Phyllis Flick

Dorie Greenspan

Dorie Greenspan

Camille Malmquist

Camille Malmquist

John Talbott

John Talbott

Lindsey Tramuta

Lindsey Tramuta

Patricia Wells

Patricia Wells

Together, our Contributing Editors have:

  • penned thousands of articles for food and travel magazines & websites, including: The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, The Los Angeles Times, The International Herald Tribune, Bon Appetit, Saveur, Food & Wine, Gourmet, Conde Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure, Olive, Parade, Metropolitan, Budget Travel, Town & Country TRAVEL, USA Weekend, Serious Eats, BlackBook, Gridskipper, ELLE à Table, Régal, L’Express, Saveurs, ELLE, & Glamour.
  • written more than 20 books about food, earning six James Beard awards and one IACP Cookbook of the Year award.
  • created blogs that collectively draw more than one million monthly page views. Two of these have been ranked among the World’s 50 Best Food Blogs. More than 100,000 fans subscribe to these blogs on Google Reader.
  • tweeted to a combined audience of more than 25,000 Twitter followers.

Contact Information

Best Baguette 2013 Paris Photo Meg Zimbeck

Mapped: All of Paris’ Top Baguettes

Last week, we reported that Antonio Teixeira had been named the winner (for the second time) of the Best Baguette in Paris competition. We now present the rest of the prizewinning bakers from this annual contest. Because of several ties, the top ten is actually a top 15 list in 2014. The 14th arrondissement, home to the grand prize winner and two other best baguettes, has once again displaced Montmartre as the best ‘hood for bread.

Below, we’ve listed and mapped all the top baguette bakers going back to 2011, so you can always find a good baguette when you need one.


View The Best Baguettes in Paris in a larger map

Paris’ Top Baguettes in 2014

1. Antonio Teixeira from Aux Delices du Palais, 60 boulevard Brune, 75014.

2. A tie between Christian Vabret from Au Petit Versailles du Marais at 27 rue François Miron, 75004 and Ali Ben Kadher from La Montmartoise at 43 rue de Clignancourt, 75018.

3. Benjamin Turquier from 134 RdT at, you guessed it, 134 rue de Turenne, 75003. This is the third time Turquier, who also wins awards for his buttery croissants, has placed in the top ten ranking for baguette.

4. A tie between Naceur Ben Habhab from Au Pain d’Autrefois at 83 rue Damrémont, 75018 and Guillaume Delcourt from Maison Delcourt at 100 rue Boileau, 75016.

5. A tie between Philippe Gosselin from Gosselin Saint Honoré at 125 rue Saint Honoré, 75001 and Mohamed Ellini from Les Artisans du Pain at 81 rue Didot, 75014.

6. Grégory Zore from Boulangerie Mulot at 75 rue de Seine, 75006.

7. Dominique Saibron from Macaron’s Café at 77 avenue du Général Leclerc, 75014.

8. A three-way tie between Benoît Castel from Liberté at 39 rue des Vinaigriers, 75010 and Narcisse Pasquier from La Petite Marquise at 3 place Victor Hugo, 75116 and Patrick Hardel from Acacias Etoile at 31 rue des Acacias, 75017.

9. Hamid Meksem from Meksem at 27 rue Campo Formio, 75013.

10. Sébasien Beasse and Vanessa Lecor from Le Petrin Normand at 152 rue de la Convention, 75015.

Judging the Best Baguettes in Paris

Paris’ Top Baguettes in 2013

1. Au Paradis du Gourmand, 156 Rue Raymond Losserand, 75014

2. Boulangerie Raphaëlle, 1 rue Feutrier, 75018

3. Boulangerie Damiani, 125 avenue du Clichy, 75017

4. Christian Vabret, 27 rue Francois Miron, 75004

5. Maison Cailleaud, 104 Cours de Vincennes, 75012

6. Yosuké Fijié from Maison Landemeine, 56 rue du Clichy, 75009

7. Dominique Saibron, 77 avenue du Géneral Leclerc, 75014

8. Le Grenier à Pain Lafayette, 91 rue Faubourg Poissonière, 75009

9. La Parisienne, 12 rue Coustou, 75018

10. Claude Besnier, 40 rue du Bourgogne, 75007

Evaluating the meilleur baguette de Paris

Paris’ Top Baguettes in 2012

1.  Boulangerie Mauvieux 159 rue Ordener, 75018

2. Raoul Maeder 111 boulevard Haussmann, 75008

3. Alexandre Chauvin, Boulangerie Audou, 10 rue de Chanzy, 75011

4. Dominique Anract, La Pompadour, 110 rue de la Tour, 75016

5. Arnaud Delmontel, 39 rue des Martyrs, 75009

6. Narcisse Pasquier and David Pasquereau, La Petite Marquise, 3 place Victor Hugo, 75016

7. Guillaume Delcourt, 100 rue Boileau, 75016

8. Eran Mayer, 100 rue du Théatre, 75015

9. Benjamin Turquier, 134 RdT, 134 rue de Turenne, 75003

10. Ludovic Jeanette, Les Saveurs de Wagram, 169 avenue de Wagram, 75017

not all are created equal

Paris’ Top Baguettes in 2011

1. Pascal Barillon, Au Levain d’Antan, 6 rue des Abbesses, 75018

2. Gaétan Romp, 14 rue de la Michodière, 75002

3. Pascal Jamin, Les Saveurs du 20ème, 120 rue de Bagnolet, 75020

4. Gontran Cherrier, 22 rue Caulaincourt, 75018

5. M. Risser, Le Fournil du Village, 12 place J.B. Clément, 75018

6. Gilles Levaslot, Les Gourmandises d’Eiffel, 187 rue de Grenelle, 75007

7. Jean-Noël Julien from Julien, 75 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001

8. Philippe Marache, 92 av de la République Paris, 75011

9. Philippe Bogner, 204 rue des Pyrénées, 75020

10. Le Grenier à Pain Saint-Amand, 33 bis rue Saint-Amand, 75015

View The Best Baguettes in Paris in a larger map

Additional Reading

Alain Ducasse Saint-Germain Chocolat

Genin & Ducasse to Open Left Bank Chocolate Shops

We used to say that “it’s impossible to be a top chocolatier and not have a shop in Saint-Germain. Except for Jacques Genin in the Marais.” That was later amended to add Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse when it opened near Bastille.

And now both of these outliers are opening shops in Saint-Germain.

The wonderful site Painrisien recently tweeted a picture of the storefront window at 26 rue Saint-Benoit, advertising the imminent arrival of Ducasse. That means you’ll soon be able to buy a box of bonbons and eat it while standing in line for Le Relais de L’Entrecôte.

The left bank outpost for Jacques Genin is more of a distant dream, but they confirmed that they are indeed looking for a space near Saint-Germain or Saint-Sulpice. He’s a bit busy right now painting several hundred chocolate eggs but hopes to return to the search sometime after Easter.

Just to recap, here’s a list of our favorite chocolatiers in and around Saint-Germain. Additional listings can be found in Our Guide to Chocolate Shops.

Saint-Germain

Henri Leroux
Jean-Charles Rouchoux
Jean-Paul Hévin
La Maison du Chocolat
Patrick Roger
Patrice Chapon
Pierre Hermé
Pierre Marcolini

Pretty Close to Saint-Germain

Franck Kestener (eastern side of Luxembourg Gardens)
Michel Chaudun (near Chez l’Ami Jean)