Two years after the closure of his first New York outpost, Joël Robuchon will bring his relaxed fine dining back to New York with a brand new restaurant in Battery Park City . This atelier will be considerably bigger (at 11,000 square feet) and will include a bar & lounge space for small plates — a first for Robuchon’s global Atelier empire. Continue reading Joël Robuchon to return to NYC
Purveyors of fine chocolate in Paris are suffering major losses this year. Back in February, Denise Acabo’s beloved chocolate shop L’Etoile d’Or was rocked by an explosion. Then yesterday, Patrick Roger’s atelier in Sceaux suffered a major fire.
There were no (human) casualties in the fire that broke out on around 3pm, but production of those delicious pralines and bonbons has of course ground to a halt.
To more fully grasp how awful this is, check out David Lebovitz’ video documenting the delicious work that took place in (and hopefully will return soon to) this atelier.
Anne-Sophie Pic, one of a small number of chefs to possess three Michelin stars and a vagina, has been expanding in recent months at an almost Ducassian rate. In the past two years, the Valence-based chef has opened a casual restaurant called Daily Pic in that city as well as La Dame de Pic in Paris (right across from the Louvre). In 2015, she plans to open two restaurants in New York.
According to the New York Times, “she plans to open a cafe on the ground floor of 510 Madison Avenue (at 53rd Street) that will be a branch of Metcafé, in Monaco. There will a more formal restaurant, “relaxed yet elegant,” on the second floor, with echoes of her Paris restaurant, La Dame de Pic.”
– Read more about the expansion from the New York Times
– Read more about the expansion on Eater
– Read more about the Paris restaurant on our guide page for La Dame de Pic
The Pourcel brothers report that the official hunting season opened yesterday in France, so we can expect to see some gibier à plumes (wild birds) turning up on restaurant menus soon, to be followed later in the season by gibier à poils (wild hare, boar and deer).
An interesting detail: while nearly 580,000 deer and 556,000 wild boars are killed each year in France, most of the wild game sold in France is actually imported from New Zealand and Eastern Europe.
Read the full article from Les Fréres Pourcel
Find additional resources in Our Guide to Wild Game in Paris
The folks at L’Express have created a handy guide to navigating this, the 5th edition of Tous au Restaurant. Just like Restaurant Week celebrations in other cities, Tous au Restaurant (September 22-28) aims to bring more people into restaurants by offering discounted meals – in this case, it’s buy one, get one free. And just like Restaurant Week celebrations in other cities, this is a terrible week for people who normally already visit restaurants (i.e. you, the readers of this website) to set foot in any of the participating restaurants.
Read the full article at L’Express but proceed with caution
Laurent Fréchet from Pirouette – a restaurant that has become a quiet favorite of ours – is planning to open a new outpost in the 1st. Construction has just begun in the old Pierre au Palais Royal space at 10 rue de Richelieu, so it will probably be several months before the new restaurant L’Hurluberlu is open.
As chef, they’ve hired a former cook from Le Meurice, according to Atabula, and there are no plans to close Pirouette.
Read the full story from Atabula
Learn more on our guide page for Pirouette
Eataly in Rome
Eataly, the super-sized Italian food court/store with outposts in New York, Tokyo, and Istanbul, has struck a deal to open in Paris in 2015 or 2016. In partnership with Galeries Lafayette, Eataly will open their 6ooo m2 store in the Marais (so as not to compete with Galeries Lafayette’s own food hall) right next to the BHV.
While we were scratching our heads while visiting Eataly Rome, wondering why such a superstore was necessary in a city filled with excellent mom & pop purveyors, Eataly Paris seems like a brilliant idea. There are so few sources for good Italian products in Paris, and (we think) a lot of pent up demand. Between this, the opening of Caffé Stern, and whatever projects Giovanni Passerini and Pierre Jancou get up to next, we’re expecting a big wave of Italophilia in 2015.
Read the full story from Le Figaro
The Restaurant Senderens has, with the retirement of the eponymous chef Alain Senderens, reverted to its previous incarnation: Lucas Carton. We’ve been hearing rumblings since January about Senderens retiring and passing the reigns to chef Julien Dumas.
Alain Senderens, now 74 years old, made his name at the restaurant L’Archistrate where he won, between 1968-1978, all three Michelin stars. He took over the kitchens of Lucas Carton in 1985 and brought that restaurant to three-star status, before “handing back his stars” in 2005, re-baptizing the restaurant in his own name, and lowering the prices.
According to the website (we haven’t yet been), prices at Lucas Carton now range from 35-44€ for a starter, and 51-83€ for a mains. The restaurant upstairs, formerly known as Bar le Passage, has been renamed as Le Marché du Lucas and, like before, features a lower price point – 44€ at lunch and 51€ at dinner.
Part concept shop, part café, the stylish space has small plates, cookies, cakes and a tightly edited, but well-prepared, coffee menu. Beans are sourced from Norwegian producer Solberg & Hansen, and beverages can be prepared to-go, as well.
Address: 12 rue Perrée, 75003
Nearest transport: Temple (3), Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday 9am-6pm
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 44 61 53 60
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Soups/salads/sandwiches
Reviews of interest
Seth Sherwood (2014) “…takes a more maximalist approach, offering a cafe attached to a two-level concept store packed with art books, cushions, accessories and clothing by cultishly admired designers.”
Lindsey Tramuta (2013) “Sometimes I wonder which is the bigger draw here, the goods the Broken Arm trio carries in their commodious concept store or the coffee and stunning natural light in the adjacent café. Of little importance, it’s a fine location to caffeinate with well-trained staff.”
Serious Eats (2013) “Eager baristas here serve Solberg & Hansen espresso and have just begun to expand their program to include filter coffee beverages. Enjoy your enthusiastically prepared cup alongside tasty breakfast snacks like crispy granola and fresh cheese. The cafe’s a bit strange, but highly competent and quite pleasant.”
Eater (2013) “Broken Arm is one of the few specialty coffee shops in Paris with outdoor seating in the Marais Nord. This café focuses on espresso, and the baristi are among Paris’ most skilled.”
Haven in Paris (2013) “The Broken Arm Café differs from the recent spate of Aussie-owned coffee shops in Paris by sourcing their beans from the opposite climate – Solberg & Hansen, a coffee supplier and roaster from Norway. The barista…is pulling beautiful espresso shots with rich crema and, of course, micro-foamed and swirly art-topped lattes. A selection of homey pastries, including the wonderfully lavender-ombred blueberry cheesecake I sampled, accompanies the impeccable coffee.”
Le Fooding (2013) “Chaque jour, une seule soupette (parmesan, croûtons, ciboulette), un seul sandwich baguette (crème de pois chiches, mimolette vieille, courgettes, coriandre), un unique bun brioché au sésame toasté (feuilles de betterave, suprême de volaille, mimolette, ou saumon fumé, cream cheese, citron, aneth et cresson), une salade de légumes ou de fruits et un gros cheesecake aux myrtilles (de chez Rachel) à découper en quartiers. C’est beau, bon, frais.”
Photo from the Porte 12 Facebook page
The Pourcel Brothers, Pudlo and Sophie Brissaud all announced over the weekend the arrival of Porte 12, the new restaurant signed by André Chiang. While the Singapore-based chef is certainly attached, it’s Vincent Crepel who will be running the kitchen after working for Chiang at his eponymous Restaurant André in Singapore (currently ranked #37 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list) 2014.
Another sign of the expanding gastro-gentrification in this neighborhood, Porte 12 has opened at 12 rue des Messageries in the 10th, a few steps from either Abri or Albion and a few blocks north of Vivant Table. The intimate space was previously a textile and lingerie atelier and is illuminated by corset-shaped chandeliers.
We haven’t yet been, and have no idea about prices or style of food (“a pure experience conceived on an honest and yet imaginative journey,” according to their website), but we’ll keep you posted.
Read the full article (in French) on the Pourcel Brothers’ Blog
Le Marché d’Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée
Alain Ducasse, who is is often described as the “most Michelin starred chef in the world,” lost some twinkle when his eponymous restaurant at the Plaza Athénée closed last year for renovations. It will reopen on Monday with a revamped décor by designer Patrick Jouin and a dramatically re-envisioned menu that celebrates fish, cereals and vegetables. No meat, or rather less meat.
The headlines have been rather splashy. The Guardian told us on Friday that “France’s top chef bans meat from the menu” after free transport rag Metronews reported on Thursday that “Avec Alain Ducasse, le Plaza Athénée devient végétarien.”
The same sort out headlines were trotted out back in 2001 when Alain Passard introduced his first vegetable inspired menu at L’Arpège. It wasn’t true then, and of course it isn’t true now that either chef has eliminated meat. Still, Ducasse’s focus on vegetables is certainly interesting. Is it sincere? Why here and not at any of the other 25+ restaurants in his collection? Is it a way to distinguish the Plaza Athénée from Le Meurice, whose three-star kitchens he is also overseeing?
If it is good, then all this cynicism will melt away (like cholesterol from a newly converted vegetarian’s heart).
Read the full article at The Guardian
Practical information and past reviews on our guide page for Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée
Grébaut’s former sous-chef Marco (at right) will be opening Gare au Gorille in October
Good news for people (like us) who have a hard time getting into Septime: two alums have joined forces to open a new bistro in October on the rue des Dames.
Marco, who was second to Bertrand Grébaut at the time of Septime’s opening, will be running the kitchen at Gare au Gorille. Louis, who is known by Septime fans as “the really tall and nice one,” will be taking care of the front of house.
Dans les Landes was sold in July
Earlier this summer, Julien Duboué sold his easy-going tapas restaurant Dans Les Landes (included in Our Guide to the Latin Quarter) in order to open a new place near the Bourse. A Noste opened this week at 6 bis rue du 4 Septembre, and John Talbott shared his enthusiasm in a review entitled “Wow, wow, wow, this place is hot, hot, hot.”
There is a taloa truck parked inside, and they seem to be serving the Basque corn tortilla snacks on the ground floor along with tapas and drinks. One floor up, they’re serving a fixed menu that features giant meat skewers carved table side.
As for Dans Les Landes, we haven’t been back since it was sold in July. However, we did revisit Afaria after Duboué sold it, and promptly removed it from our guide (it was terrible). Let’s hope Dans les Landes doesn’t sink in similar fashion.
After two years in Oberkampf, chef Pierre Sang (a former contestant on the French version of Top Chef) has opened a second location at 6 rue Gambey, 75011.
Open Tuesday-Saturday for dinner only. He tends not to stick to a single format, but for the moment is charging €49 for five small plates.
Just in time to ruin Labor Day barbecues in America, Kraft recalled over 7,500 cases of “pasteurized prepared cheese product” Kraft Singles due to storage temperature concerns. This is the third such recall this year for the company including a Velveeta, cheese stuffed hotdog and cottage cheese mishaps. Good thing it wasn’t raw milk…
You can find more info on the recalled products here.
Photo via Flickr by JeepersMedia
Whether you’re looking for a nightcap or an apéro, an old fashioned hotel bar or a new wave dive, here’s our guide to the best craft cocktails organized by arrondissement. Happy tippling!
Café des Abattoirs (75001) Lindsey Tramuta reported on Café des Abattoirs in the Times this week, calling it a “modern grill-meets-Lyonnaise bouchon” run by the Rostang sisters who “uphold their father’s penchant for simple dishes prepared with top-tier ingredients, in a family-friendly environment that has a whiff of nostalgia… Despite a few missed opportunities — a short, predictable wine list and uninspired desserts — this is feel-good Rostang cooking at its finest.”
For practical information and additional reviews, see our guide page for Café des Abattoirs
Read the full review in The New York Times
Squatt (75011) Looking for an antidote to the ubiquitous Nicolas chain? Aaron Ayscough suggests the brand new “junkyardy wine shop and épicerie” from Pietro Russano, the owner of Retro’Bottega, which is “stuffed with unusual French and Italian selections, not to mention sincere personality… The selection is a 30% – 70% split between Italian and French wines.” Beware though as “Squatt’s French selection is presently a little patchy.”
Read the full review on Not Drinking Poison in Paris
L’oiseau Blanc (75016) LiLi isn’t the only new opening at the Hotel Peninsula Paris, there’s also a rooftop bar with “360 degree view of Paris in a sophisticated and staid space. The drinks menu features around a dozen drinks ranging from appropriate classics (Aviation, anyone?) to twists on classics like their Take Off (gin, sweet vermouth and bitters). Here you’ll find the excellent service and hush hush feel that high-end hotels are known for.” Forrest Collins recommends going early as she suspects many of the best terrace seats are reserved for hotel guests.
Read the full review at 52 Martinis
LiLi (75016) Alexander Lobrano thinks this brand new Cantonese restaurant will be one of the biggest hits of the rentrée with “an extravagant but carefully edited program of temptations that debuts with dim sum, including the juicy Shanghai style soup dumplings below and also other more delicate and tantalizing versions of the genre, including the lobster-stuffed caviar-dressed single dim-sum that was so good I ate it in one excited bite.”
Find practical information and additional reviews on our guide page for LiLi
Read the full review from Alexander Lobrano
Stephane Davet reports today that Yam’Tcha – the celebrated and nearly impossible-to-book restaurant from chef Adeline Grattard – will be closing at some point in the next few months in order to reopen in a larger space. The new restaurant will also be in the Les Halles neighborhood but will pass from 20 to 35 covers and have space for four cooks instead of three. Anyone who has seen their current set -up can understand why she might want some more elbow room in the kitchen.
Read the full story in Le Monde
Monsieur Henri (75003) Natural wine scene fixture Dzine Breyet has opened a new wine bar in the haute Marais, featuring “harsh lighting, a low ceiling, and ill-advised primary-coloured wine storage cages,” according to Aaron Ayscough. However, “the value of a divey geek wine bar like Monsieur Henri lies in individualist eccentricities [like multiple Jura white being offered by the glass that night]. Monsieur Henri contains magnums of challenging wines. It offers cult eau de vie de cidre. It is perceptibly run by someone with a passionate investment in the scene.”
Read the full review at Not Drinking Poison in Paris
Le Comptoir du Relais (75006) Editor-in-Chief Adam Rapoport acknowledges the (still) impossibility of scoring a reservation at Yves Camdeborde’s restaurant, and then gives it some more much-needed mainstream press coverage. The appeal for him lies in “the restaurant’s bustling, studio-apartment-size space, completely free of pretense in a city famous for pretense,” and the fact that “there is no menu—you eat whatever inventive, abundantly fresh, elevated bistro dishes Camdeborde chooses to cook that evening.” Also, the cheese (much of which comes, we’ve heard, from Twiggy’s place inside the covered Saint-Germain market): “Finally, there is the cheese board, oozing with only-in-France creations (and honey and quince jam and all that good stuff) that your waiter plunks down on the table after your meal and lets you have at it.”
For practical information and additional reviews, see our page for Le Comptoir du Relais
Read the full review from Bon Appétit
Aux Deux Cygnes (75011) Aaron Ayscough thought the pristine & professional wine bar could benefit from “a little more anarchy, a little more scuff on its polish,” but found that the wine list “by emphasizing outlier categories like Languedoc whites and Swiss reds, manages to retain interest without following trends or touting big names.”
Read the full review on Not Drinking Poison in Paris
While our stops and samples change with every tour (you’re not guaranteed to taste what’s pictured below), there’s always something delicious and photo-worthy. Here are some recently snapped tastes to share from our food & wine tours in Paris.
Goat cheese, while it’s still in season, Taste of the Left Bank
Basque charcuterie, Taste of the Marais
Seasonal mushrooms, Taste of the Latin Quarter
Discovering French wine, Taste of Saint-Germain
Pâtes de fruit, Taste of the Marais
Small production AOC olive oils, Taste of the Left Bank
Chocolate boxes, Taste of Saint-Germain
Terrine and pâté en croute, Taste of the Marais
Chocolate box, Taste of the Marais
Charcuterie, Taste of the Left Bank
Rustic apple tart, Taste of Saint-Germain
Bite sized shrimp, Taste of the Latin Quarter
The big spread, French Cheese & Wine Workshop
Traditional loaves, Taste of Saint-Germain
La Fine Mousse Restaurant (75011) Kate Robinson visited La Fine Mousse’s new restaurant, which aims to “bring beer to the dinner table and prove that it’s a worthy companion to exceptional food.” There were “still a few wrinkles to iron out, especially considering the price point,” but “there’s no denying the quality of the ingredients or the creativity of the menu.”
Read the full review at Haven in Paris
Find additional reviews and practical information for the beer bar on our page for La Fine Mousse.
Gyoza Bar 2 (75003) – The Japanese dumpling bar now has a chic second location in the Haut Marais that Paris Bouge declared “tout comme dans l’autre restaurant… Cuisiné par des mains expertes sur un plan de travail tout en ouverture, ce petit chausson rapide en bouche, cuit à la vapeur et grillé d’un côté, se trempe dans une sauce soja-agrume parfaitement relevée.” What is different at this location, however, is flavored angel food cake roll-ups from Pâtisserie Ciel for dessert.
For practical information and additional reviews, read our guide page for Gyoza Bar 2.
Paris is packed with ideal picnic locations, but where to buy the food and wine? Here are our selection of the best stops for portable provisions (cheese, charcuterie, breads, sweets, prepared foods and bottles) near our favorite picnic spots.
Our Favorite Picnic Spots in Paris
Click on any of our favorite picnic places below for our map showing where to buy your food and wine at each location.
Champ de Mars (photo via Dewet/Flickr)
Palais Royal/The Tuileries (photo via Dalbera/Flickr)
Luxembourg Gardens (photo by Nadya Peek via Flickr)
Some tips for a pique-nique Parisien:
- Those whistles you hear in the parks late at night? They’re important. They’re the last call for frolicking before the gates close and you will get locked in the park if you dally too long.
- It’s perfectly acceptable to borrow a tire-bouchon (corkscrew) from a picnic neighbor if you find yourself without an opener. Or ask your wine shopkeeper to open and re-cork your bottle.
- Drinking is fine in public places. Except these public places.
- Cheap blankets and disposable serveware can be found at any grocery store. Plastic cups (aka gobelets) can also be bought by the sleeve or individual piece at most bodegas.