Charcuterie at Bones restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Bones

After making a name for himself at Au Passage, Aussie chef James Henry is back with an ambitious restaurant. Its name is reflected in Henry’s attention to raw materials – stripped-down brick and stone in the dining room, and pristine products in the kitchen. Ingredients that Henry doesn’t make himself (bread, butter, fresh cheese and charcuterie) are carefully sourced from Annie Bertin, Terroirs d’Avenir, La Ruchotte, and other reputable producers. Preparations might be raw, pickled, smoked, barbecued or frozen, but the integrity of the base ingredient still shines through. The no-choice tasting menu includes four courses plus amuses for 47€. Add another 8€ for cheese. Up front, there’s a bar serving craft beers and wines by the glass, along with oysters, raw fish sliced to order, and house-made charcuterie. Expect loud music and plenty of youthful eastern Paris attitude. Named as one of our favorite new restaurants of 2013.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 43 rue Godefroy Caviagnac, 75011
Nearest transport: Voltaire (9)
Hours: Dinner Tuesday through Saturday; Closed Sunday and Monday.
Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance (no reservations for bar)
Telephone: 09 80 75 32 08
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2014) “There is something un-Parisian about this place, from the chalkboard that says the bread is made in-house to the exceptionally friendly, bearded waitstaff (the sommelier is happy to open a bottle of wine for you to try before committing). The massive côte de bœuf is particularly outstanding and goes down well with any of the reds on the wine list.”

Aaron Ayscough (2013) “The natural wine list at Bones is respectable, and wine buyer Pierre Derrien has succeeded in getting admirable allocations of certain sought-after natural producers (Pfifferling, Ganevat, Cornelissen, etc.). Derrien also deserves a lot of credit for actively expanding the list, pushing boundaries, and offering clients more than what they might otherwise demand. I hope he’ll forgive me if I still suggest that the list at Bones could use slightly better oversight, more staff training, and faster service.”

Le Figaro (2010) “Côté bar, on grignote charcuteries affinées maison, butternut et ricotta, foie gras et figue fraîche ou carpaccio de mulet noir. Côté resto, on déroule trois savoureux amuse-bouches (cœurs de canard, huîtres fumées, gambas à la plancha), deux entrées (dont un rouget, ­piperade d’anthologie), un plat (pintade croustillante ou cœur de veau) et un dessert (glace amande, quetsche, meringue). Les assiettes, graphiques et minimalistes, ont toutes le même squelette: trois produits de choix. Sans fausse note.”

Lindsey Tramuta (2013) “Henry plays up raw materials in design and approaches pedigreed ingredients in a noble, unpretentious way. You’ll find small plates of raw, seared, pickled, smoked or grilled fish, meat and vegetables that you’d be hard pressed to find on the plate anywhere else.”

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “This place matters most as the launch pad for a young man who is quite certainly fated to become a very successful and well-known chef, whether this future unfolds in Paris or elsewhere. It’s also just a big sweet gulp of fresh air for anyone who wants Paris to ignore the 3 Bs–Berlin, Barcelona and Brooklyn, and coin its own idea of a grandly Gallic good time at the beginning of this new century as surely as it did the last one.”

T Magazine (2013) “At the bar, three kinds of oysters are offered à l’unité, superbly fresh and bright. Bar menu bedfellows include vividly citrusy sea bass carpaccio and fulsome paper-thin slices of cured, dried and smoked duck breast. By-the-glass options span Sicilian Lamoresca to Le Pic Gris from Vallée du Rhône.”

Le Fooding (2013) “La trouvaille, c’est cet espace mixte et brut, music bar pour picoreurs de nuit, gastro cool pour bâfreurs de sensations, suprême bistroy pour les debout et les assis. La cuisine, griffée James Henry… est un manifeste de gastronomie populaire en vibration avec des pépites de choc… Sans trop se risquer, l’une des adresses de la nouvelle année.”

Le Figaro (2012 preview) “Barbe de trois jours, tatouages sur les biceps, T-shirt branché… James Henry a le look de son âge: 29 ans… Sa spécialité: cuisiner le cru, notamment les légumes. Il n’hésite pas à dynamiser les légumes oubliés. Sa force: sa jeunesse et sa fougue. Il ose des produits improbables et le résultat est bon. Son lieu jaune, accompagné de sa purée d’héliantis caramélisés en témoigne. Sa botte secrète: peu de produits à la fois. Pas d’assiettes fourre-tout mais des compositions simples, souvent concentrées autour de trois produits.”

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6 thoughts on “Bones”

  1. This was a nice meal all around. Although our reservation was misplaced, the seasoned crew was able to extend a table to my wife and I granted we finish before the next guests. The food was a fine example of a well balanced tasting menu. The ingredients were fresh and well pared, the flow of the meal felt natural in each course. Not enough can be said for this fine young chef and the wonderful staff assembled. Meeting James Henry was a treat, but from start to finish the entire experience of Bones and her family was pleasant. This is one of the finest meals in easily the most approachable setting I have had to date. For some reason this reminded me of Momofuku Ko in the relaxed setting juxtaposed with the flawlessly executed cuisine. Paris has a new gem, I will want to see if they can keep the feel and execution as the notoriety grows.

  2. Come for the food, leave with the bread! I, too, took a chunk home and it made the most brilliant toast. James’s bread can go toe to toe with any other glamorous pain de campagne out there. Oh yeah, the rest of the food is great too. Glad this place exists. Hope I’ll still be able to book it before 2014.

  3. James comes in early each day to make his own bread – he even gave us half a loaf as a parting gift tonight. Excellent meal all round and very enthusiastic and casual staff

  4. Another one for our fall “list” ~ I already have more places on the list than number of meals we can have in a 2 week period. :)

    Jo

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