The couple behind Hidden Kitchen now has a very public showcase — in a gorgeous, windowed room tucked behind the Palais Royal — for the bold, refined, contemporary American cooking that earned them a loyal following over the years (and made booking nearly impossible). Unique, four- or six-course tasting menus at 55€/70€.
It is impossible to overstate the fervor with which the second coming of Daniel Rose’s Spring was anticipated. Faithful fans and the soon-to-be-converted are all hoping to be saved by a meal here. The menu changes constantly, according to the season and D-Rose’s whim. Update September 2011 - Now serving lunch on Wednesday & Friday, in addition to dinner Tuesday through Saturday.
Now open: Racines, version 2.0, featuring the same product-driven cooking as the original, in a Philippe Starck-designed space.
Camélia by Thierry Marx, is the “second” restaurant in the new Mandarin Oriental, to his flagship Sur Mesur.
The man behind the curtain in this white-on-white, Kubrick-esque space in the new Mandarin Oriental is molecular master Thierry Marx. Lunch menu, 70€; dinner, 145€ or 180€.
Book many weeks in advance for a seat at this fantastic table d’hotes, run by a young American couple in their apartment near Palais Royal. Ten courses, including bubbly and wine pairings. OCTOBER 2011: Hidden Kitchen has closed, but you can find the pair at their new venture, Verjus.
Adeline Grattard (formerly of Astrance) serves inspired Franco-Chinois fare, with teas to match. Yes, Yam’Tcha is hard to book, but that’s what happens when a restaurant is as universally praised as this one.
Once upon a time, Olivier Magny ran wine tastings and classes out of his own apartment. Now he’s opened a vast, slick wine bar near Les Halles with a list of about 500 bottles and 40 glass pours.
After working for Ducasse for seven years, Kei Kobayashi — by all accounts extremely talented — has opened an eponymous restaurant in the old Gerard Besson space, offering a very personal take on haute cuisine, turning a landscape of French ingredients and traditions into a sort of zen garden.
“Bistronomie” is a not-so-neologism, a mash up of “bistro” and “gastronomie” coined to describe the new (then, a decade or so ago) wave of small, casual places opened by chefs who had done time in the haute-est kitchens of France. It certainly applies here.
The market at Les Halles is long gone, but its legacy is still in evidence at Chez Denise, an old-school, shoulder-to-shoulder, red-checked tablecloth classic. Marrow bones, steaks, frites: It’s the belly of paris, in your belly. Open until 5 a.m., Monday to Friday.
With its zinc bar, hearty home cooking, and colorful local clientele, this beloved wine bar (and its Turkish toilet) seems impervious to change. Meals are served only at lunch; the rest of the day you can stop for a glass of Morgon or Brouilly and a snack. Wonderfully, refreshingly cheap.
There’s no menu at Konfidential, hidden in a 15th century cave below a boutique hotel of the same name, only the whim and skill of chef Akrame Benallal, who has worked for Pierre Gagnaire and Ferran Adria. Konsider yourself warned/informed. UPDATE (April 2011): Chef Benallal has moved on to open Akrame.
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