Hidden in plain sight on a street of tourist traps, this charming crêperie elevates the genre with organic ingredients, nutty galettes flecked with buckwheat, tender dessert crêpes, flowing cider, and sweet service.
This crêperie brings a little luxury to the genre, plus organic Bréton ingredients, a list of about 20 artisanal ciders, and Olivier Roellinger consulting. Continuous service every day.
Yves Camdeborde’s beloved bistro, once neo and now classic. Book months in advance for weeknight, no-choice dinner, or just queue up at lunch or weekends for the so-called “brasserie menu”, a free-for-all that can feel a bit like a tourist zoo at times. At worst, it’s sloppy and hectic. At best, it’s delicious.
After early visits to Agapé Substance, both Pudlo and Bruno Verjus invoked the word “genius” to describe 30 year-old chef David Toutain, whose resumé includes stints at L’Arpège, Mugaritz (in Spain) and Corton (NYC). The kitchen isn’t so much open as eat-in; the narrow space seats only 26, and gives diners a view of Toutain’s seemingly improvised cooking. Expect artful, spare presentations, pristine ingredients, and a dash of molecular technique. Lunch menus at 39, 51, and 65€; dinner at 51, 78, and 99€.
Cyril Lignac is perhaps the most mediatized of Parisian chefs, with not only books, but a magazine and television shows, too. In 2008 he took over Le Chardenoux, a historic bistro in the 11th. Now he’s moved into another landmark, the former Claude Sainlouis, in the heart of the Saint Germain, preserving the mid-century décor but updating the menu with his own take on bistro cooking, which is to say: There will be foam. Lunch menu, 25€. À la carte, closer to 50€. Open every day.
Hélène Darroze is one of the only women to have a Michelin star, which is an interesting sociological fact, if not necessarily a reason to eat at her eponymous restaurant. Darroze hails from southwestern France, and her cooking is strongly accented with flavors from that region, here elevated to one-star levels in a modern, luxe dining room, as well as the less formal “salon,” where small plates are available. Menus from 52€ (lunch) to 125€.
L’Epi Dupin has been attracting a mix of loyal locals and tourists (a functioning website surely appeals to the latter) since it opened in 1995. The old-fashioned room was updated a few years ago, and the more modern space is surely more reflective of chef François Pasteau’s contemporary market menu. Two course lunch for 24€, three course dinner for 34€.
Un Dimanche à Paris, run by Pierre Cluizel of the renowned chocolate-making family, is many things. It’s a boutique, selling gorgeous chocolates and pastries; it’s a cocktail lounge and salon du thé; it’s an event and teaching space, offering cooking classes; and it’s an elegant restaurant, where chocolate finds its way into everything, sweet and savory.
The “bread” part of Bread & Roses is a lovely range of organic loaves. The rest of it is an English-accented lunch spot and tea salon featuring fresh tarts (savory and sweet), sandwiches, and lively salads, plus flaky scones, serious cheesecake, and a few grocery items, including Marmite. What you won’t find are any bargains.
This neighborhood restaurant on the south side of the Luxembourg gardens offers a mix of classic and contemporary French cooking with Asian touches.
The old Chez Maitre Paul space has been given a fresh coat of paint by a new team who seem keen on pleasing the old faithful clientele of Paul while broadening their culinary horizons with oyster “bon bons” and other twists on an otherwise classic menu. The three-course, 21€ lunch is a good place to start.
Régis’ fantastic oysters come from the Marenne-Oleron and are available for dégustation on the spot in the sea blue dining room, to to take home. Take note: Like most oyster bars, Régis has a long summer closure.
La Rotonde is a classic Montparnasse café and brasserie, serving standards like onion soup and steak tartare all day, along with oysters and other seafood in season.
Natural wines, great products, in an exquisite old space. Slightly draconian hours.
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