After leaving his post at the rococo, subterranean Konfidential, Gagnaire- and Adria-alum Akrame Benallal has resurfaced with a sleek, eponymous restaurant in the 16th, where he continues to serve up his creative, globally-influenced cooking in a no-choice menu format. Weekday lunch formules at 25€ and 35€, otherwise 45€ and 55€ for four or five courses, respectively.
That executive chef Phillipe Labbés name is nearly homophonous to the name of this luxe enclave in the new Shangri-La hotel is only coincidence. “The bee” (as it translates) is actually a nod to the building’s Bonapartian heritage; it was built in 1896 by a princely nephew of the former emperor, whose coat of arms included a few golden bees. A century later, critics are buzzing about this addition to Paris’ haute dining scene. Many dishes present a main ingredient in dueling acts; meat and fowl come from royal lineage; the room is fit for modern aristocrats. It probably goes without saying that the prices will sting.
Once widely heralded, this modern, Mediterranean bistro in the 16th has lately inspired lukewarm reviews.
In the former spot of La Table de Joël Robuchon, Les Tablettes reopens with a new chef (Jean-Louis Nomicos) and a pop attitude.
This MIchelin one-star is in a grand pavilion in the Bois de Boulogne.
Pascal Barbot continues to impress diners (those who manage to get a reservation) with a culinary high wire act that is both grounded and innovative, French and global, serious and playful.
La Table de Joël Robuchon is now closed. Look for Robuchon at his other Paris locations, L’Atelier Etoile de Joël Robuchon, and L’Atelier Saint-Germain de Joël Robuchon.
The specialty at this elegant address in the 16th is seafood, though whether it is any good seems up for debate.
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