There’s plenty of enthusiasm at this Menilmontant newcomer, run by an young but experienced team. Light and bright, based on pedigreed produce, the cooking is firmly of the moment (as is the exposed brick and industrial lighting of the room).
Devotees of natural wine make the pilgrimage up the hill to this Belleville institution. Phillipe Pinoteau presides over the floor (don’t expect a smile, and don’t take it personally), and Raquel Carena tends the fire, offering her own brand of bistro cooking, sometimes delicate, sometimes hearty, always heartfelt. The lunch menu at 16€ is one of the best deals in town.
Unless you live there, it’s unlikely that you’ll find yourself in the outskirts of the 20th arrondissement. But if you do, and if you’re hungry, you might consider a meal at this old-fashioned bistro. Open every day.
Updated comfort food (conceived by Alain Senderens) is on the menu at Mama Shelter, a mod boutique hotel that could exist in any major city. Far from central Paris, the rooms are surprisingly affordable. Brunch, at 39€ a head, is less so.
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