L’Avocat soufflé à la pistache; pointe de vanille, L’Arpège.

Photo: Food Snob.

The book is filled with my favorite recipes (more than 300 of them) for what I think of as ‘elbows on the table’ food from France.  It’s the unfussy, delicious food that my friends and I make in France.  This is not a by-the-rules book on French food.  It’s not Mastering the Art of French Cooking (what else could be?).  And it’s not a book of traditional French food (a Basque tortilla made with potato chips is hardly traditional), although it’s got its share of time-honored recipes – I can’t wait for you to try the Cheese-Topped Onion Soup!  Instead, it’s my personal take on the bright, fresh, simple food that’s being cooked today in the country of my heart.  Oh, and there are lots of stories and lots of gorgeous, gorgeous pictures by Alan Richardson.

> Continue reading at Dorie Greenspan

Le Fooding

Here is the schedule:

October 1

00h00- 4h00 : Inaki Aizpitarte (Le Chateaubriand) ; 4h – 8h : Yves Camdeborde (Le Comptoir du Relais) ; 8h – 12h : Christian Etchebest (La Cantine du Troquet) ; 12h – 16h : Alberto Herraiz (Fogon) ; 16h – 20h :  Stéphane Jégo (L’Ami Jean) ; 20h – 00h : William Ledeuil (Ze Kitchen Galerie)

> Continue reading at Paris Notebook

> Continue reading at Table à Découvert

Practical information

Address: 6 rue Bailleul, 75001
Nearest transport: Louvre-Rivoli (1)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday for dinner, Wednesday-Saturday for lunch. Closed Sunday & Monday. Saturday lunch throughout the summer will feature lobster rolls instead of the traditional lunch menu.
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 45 96 05 72
Website
Map

Average price for lunch: €23 for the bouillon garni, small plates for an additional charge
Average price for dinner: €50-100 (menu €64)
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: open kitchen, excellent wine selection, market cooking, celebrity chef
Type of crowd: Foodies
Interior: polished & modern
Atmosphere: casual

Trusted reviews

• Chroniques du Plaisir (2010) “On sait où se trouve la priorité ici : dans la cuisine. Celle qui nous régale et nous étonne par sa simplicité et ses audaces modestes. Une de mes adresses préférées à Paris. Courez-y!”
• Chez Ptipois (2010) “Spring est une alchimie délicate à laquelle il faut laisser le temps de trouver ses repères, surtout en présence d’un si radical changement de données… Le repas que j’ai fait ce tout premier soir – salle pas tout à fait pleine, ce qu’on ne verra plus de sitôt – était remarquable, mais je vois très bien que ce sera carrément merveilleux quand la vitesse de croisière sera atteinte.”
• Bruno Verjus (2010) “24 couverts cosmopolites offrent une salle concentrée et attentive aux gestes des Chefs. Le plaisir s’offre depuis la cuisine, scène ouverte aux clients spectateurs. Le pas à pas de l’élaboration des assiettes construit l’imaginaire de leur dégustation.”
• David Lebovitz (2010) “Finally came dessert, which started with bowls of raspberries, with the gentle dampness of berries that have been just-picked, floating in a light peach tea with unsweetened cocoa nibs bobbing in the broth, which provided not-too-sweet transition to dessert.”
• Meg Zimbeck for BlackBook (2010) “Nearly all of the hooks that comprised Rose’s story have changed within the last three years. The underdog who cooked alone and undercharged for every plate has grown into the Hot Chef who manages a team and sometimes speaks in terms of branding.”
• Barbra Austin (2010) “What’s refreshing is that Josh is not afraid to include wines from beyond the Hexagon.  International selections are difficult to find in chauvinist France, and it’s a joy for this lover of aromatic whites to see German and Austrian bottles holding court with their Alsatian cousins.  I can’t wait for the wine bar to open on the lower level.”
• Mr. Lung (2010) “Dish-side, Daniel Rose’s cuisine has always been very emotional, and it is not surprising that some of his feelings find their way to the table. There is now some restlessness, hesitations and even a sense of aggravation that were never palpable at the first Spring or in the lasts months of Table 28. But do not think that the food is bad.  His major qualities are still there: sensitivity, the mastery in roasting, the accuracy of each dish… Yet it is obvious that the team has settled in the new venue and needs to find their marks.”
• Adrian Moore (2010) “I loved the buzz and the open kitchen, and hope the fact that an American has created the most interesting restaurant in Paris in years might make them sit up and actually do something about it.”
• Chrisoscope (2010) “L’esprit chaleureux et personnel, presqu’intime de Daniel Rose est toujours présent. Le plus beau, c’est que ça ne fait que commencer, et que ça va surement aller crescendo. Même si je ne pense pas qu’ils courent après les étoiles Michelin, elles ne sont vraiment pas loin. Bravo!”
• Alexander Lobrano (2010) “Our lunch as privileged guineau pigs was sensational. Rose plans to build his lunch menu around bouillon with different garnishes… the best bouillon I’ve ever had in my life–deep, ruddy, potent and profoundly soothing, with grilled chicken and tiny vegetables. Desserts were superb, too…”
• John Talbott (2010) “It was the most interesting and fascinating food experience I think I’ve ever had… The concept for lunch: a fixed price bouillon of the day with chicken, although pigeon could be substituted, and veggies; and a selection of something like 10 small plates, which depending on whether you were on the fly or siitting down to an extended repast, could be served family/Asian style or one by one, in portions that will probably serve two persons.”
• The Paris Kitchen (2010) “…he’s within a week of finally reaching the finish line to open his much anticipated restaurant SPRING… two long years after signing the papers and facing snail-paced red tape delays due to unexpected historic renovation complications with more architects, city planners and town hall. When the rest of us might have given up, he kept going as best he could with a smile – telling himself that every interruption must have a reason and higher purpose.”

Have you been?

Share you thoughts in the comments below, or add your photos to our Flickr group.

**

Practical information

Address: 40 blvd Haussmann (in the Galeries Lafayette), 75009
Nearest transport: Chaussée d’Antin – Lafayette (7, 9)
Hours: Open for lunch Monday through Saturday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 82 34 56
Map

Average price for lunch: €35-49
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: outdoor dining, rooftop dining, panoramic view, open Monday
Type of crowd: suits, style hounds, tourists
Interior: polished & modern
Atmosphere: casual

Trusted reviews

• John Talbott (2010) “The 4 servers often seemed more akin to the ladies in the store downstairs who enjoy talking about last night’s date, than hustling to serve 14 customers.”

• The Paris Kitchen (2010) “…monumental views of Paris…with gorgeous food created by former l’Arpège protégé Fumiko Kono and Master Pâtissier Pierre Hermé.
• Le Figaro (2010) “L’ensemble n’est pas mal fichu même si, comme souvent lorsque l’appétit se pique d’altitude, les vertiges d’environnement viennent chiper la vedette à l’assiette.”

Have you been?

Share you thoughts in the comments below, or add your photos to our Flickr group.

**

That resto had maybe 30 covers and this two-story place has about double that number, in very commodious space.  We were supposed to be five and for that we needed to be able to communicate.  Even with the four that showed up, I’m glad we were on the second floor.

> Continue reading at John Talbott’s Paris

Charcuterie, La Bodeguita.

Photo: Barbra Austin

Q-TEA restaurant

While each dish takes about 20 minutes our hostess said, once they started appearing, they came in prompt succession and if I’ve got it right, we had a salad of bitter cucumber and some kind of sliced sweet pear, Shanghai spring rolls with bok choy, fish with slightly hot red pepper on cellophane noodles, a seafood, tofu and XO marmite, chicken croustillant (that I thought was the hit of the evening), turnips stuffed with shitakes, a whole fried bass (my #2), a mango/melon melange and a vanilla “milkshake.”

> Continue reading at John Talbott’s Paris

Duck neck with toasted garlic, L’Avant Comptoir.

Photo: Meg Zimbeck