Il Brigante

pizza carboneri at il brigante pizzeria in paris | parisbymouth.com

You get dinner and a show at Il Brigante where the kitchen and dining room are one and the same, and a Calabrian pizzaiolo is turning out masterful cracker-crusted pizzas loaded with authentic Italian imports. It’s smokey, steamy, and entertaining. Try the Carboneri with a runny egg, guanciale, bufala mozzarella, pecorino and a sprinkling of black pepper. The restaurant is as tiny as the menu (just pizza and a handful of desserts) so advanced booking is advised unless you want to queue outside for quite some time. Pizzas available to go, too.

Catherine Down, January 2015

Practical information

Address: 14 rue du Ruisseau, 75018
Nearest transport: Jules Joffrin (12)
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 44 92 72 15
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Italian & pizza

Reviews of interest

L’Express (2015) “Dans sa gargote montmartroise, Salvatore Rotiroti est le roi de la pizza. Sa pâte ultrafine est un sommet du genre, qu’il garnit de guanciale (joue de cochon séchée) et de copeaux de grana padano.”

Not Drinking Poison in Paris (2014) “Half of the pizzas I’ve eaten at Il Brigante have possessed enjoyable crusts. Specifically, the white pizzas, which, at the best of times, are fulsome and brittle-soft, like a new cotton duvet. Chef-owner Salvatore Rototori’s dough seems to misbehave slightly under red sauce, remaining lean and unimpressive.”

Time Out (2013) “Pizzas are thin-based, crunchy and generously loaded with fresh and flavourful ingredients. We loved the San Nicolas (ricotta, mozzarella, bresaola, rocket and parmesan, €16) and the Ronzatti (scamorza, marinated broccoli and Neapolitan sauce, €15), washed down with a carafe of Italian red (€12).”

Le Fooding (2013) “Et puis il y a les pizzas tout court, rondes, pâte extrafine et craquante sur les bords. Comme celles de Salvatore, 100% calabrais, grand brigand gentil qui pizzaiole les produits du pays: guanciale (joue de cochon), supressata (salami pimenté), capicollo (épaule de cochon aux épices), saucisse napolitaine, scamorza, pousses de navet…”

John Talbott (2013) “A pizzeria with attitude.”

Le Figaro (2013) “Une dizaine de pizzas, de 9 à 16 €, qui dépassent largement le cadre de l’assiette, avec une pâte fine, légère et craquante. Les garnitures vous envoient directement dans le sud de l’Italie à l’image de l’excellente Ronzatti, à base de saucisse napolitaine, scamorza fumée et brocoli-rave. Au menu également: sopressata, guanciale, capicollo, roquette marinée, ricotta di buffala…”

Le Journal du Dimanche (2013) “Parce que si l’on doit faire un reproche à Il Brigante, c’est la longue attente (en tout cas, ce soir-là).”

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