Bigarrade

Chef Christophe Pélé sold and left Bigarrade in early 2012. Chef Yasuhiro Kanayama has taken over, to much acclaim.

Practical information

Address: 106 rue Nollet, 75017
Nearest transport: Brochant (13)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Saturday; lunch, Tuesday-Friday; Closed Saturday, closed Sunday
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 42 26 01 02
Website
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Average price for lunch: 50-99€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, no-choice menu, open Monday
Type of crowd: foodies
Interior: polished & modern
Atmosphere: formal

Reviews of interest

  • Alexander Lobrano (2012) “…superb…Though compatible with Pele’s approach, Kanayama’s cooking is actually much subtler and even more quietly provocative when it comes to sensual contrasts of texture, as seen in a sublime little dish of lobster with grilled banana in lemon-verbena foam…La Bigarrade remains an urgently well-recommended…”
  • John Talbott (2012) “it’s a “forced” or “surprise” menu and the plates (with identifying announcements in French or English) roll out one after another…A strawberry/foie gras concoction, marinated fish with microtomed cauliflower, razor clams with petit pois and apricots…barbue with carrots and orange slices, veal with cabbage…Go? Goodness yes.”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012 – new chef) “…microcompositions tellement graciles…Tout est très soigné, précis, méticuleux, sûrement cérébral et peut-être plein de sentiment, seulement voilà, on ne peut s’interdire cette impression de manger la bouche en cul-de-poule…”
  • Bruno Verjus (2011) “Ici réside l’âme de la cuisine. La précision, le ballet de la gestuelle du chef, l’intelligence des mets, des saveurs, me laissent à chaque fois sans voix et presque sans mot… Du génie à l’état pur!”
  • Meg Zimbeck (2010) “…deflating and befuddled. It was cluttered and careless, like a teenager’s MySpace page that uses seven different fonts. We were subjected, over and over again, to pairings that made absolutely no sense.”
  • Thierry Richard (2009) “Belle, étonnante, subtile et sacrément bien maîtrisée la cuisine de Christophe Pelé est un ravissement.”
  • John Talbott (2008) “…it didn’t come off for any of us as over a 5/10 meal… It is often said that Bigarrade is the “new Spring”, but we think it is not.”
  • François Simon (2008) “…franchement, c’est brillant.”

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8 Comments on Bigarrade

  1. Not in 2012, but I promised to do so when they have the Coutume coffee. Which they will be tasting monday I hear, my return should be soon I presume. Surely one of the resto in Paris of great spirit, surely not a “staged restaurant” like so many everywhere.

  2. You make a compelling case, my dear Tache. Have you been back to l’Astrance lately? It’s been ages since I read anything about it.

  3. I would say Pascal Barbot was obviously the strong influence on Pele’s cuisine, and Christophe had made a coherent style on Barbot IMO. That being said the highs at l’Astrance are higher as well as the lows. Not sure but maybe the “surprise” menu influence was really pushed along in Paris by Barbot 10 years ago when they opened, when daniel rose was still in art school or what ever. The highs and lows at la Bigarrade were not as extreme, and that being said there were still wtf? moments. At l’Astrance for the $ you usually have a couple of WTF? moments as well just more pronounced for the $.

  4. Well, I didn’t make the comment (that Bigarrade was the new Spring), and I’m not a great fan of “X is the new Y” comparisons in general, but it’s hardly a leap to talk about Daniel Rose’s influence at a time (4 years ago) when open kitchens and improvisational no-choice menus were relatively rare.

    I wish Pele luck with whatever comes next. I know many people who loved this restaurant, even if I myself found it to be maddenly incoherent.

  5. When la Bigarrade first opened Christophe Rohat recommended Pele. One could say it is more like a petit l’Astrance cuisine-wise with actually a more cohesive menu usually. One could also forgive somewhat more given the extremely attractive menu pricing vs ingredient quality. Probably all D Rose had as input maybe was about the logistics of an open kitchen, which was probably a bit different coming from the Royal Monceau at the time of opening. As we know “consulting” is a very very general wide open definition. Pele also is not a “thermal-regulator cook” he works hard a la minute prep and cooking. He will do something new after a good long vacation with coffee and press.

  6. Can’t speak for the author (John Talbott) who wrote that, but people were likening it to Spring when it opened because it had an open kitchen, a no-choice tasting menu, and because Daniel Rose consulted on the project.

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