Lazare

Sole Dieppoise with spinach at Lazare restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

NOTE: This restaurant is closed for renovations until April 2, 2016. The bustling Saint-Lazare train station is home to this eagerly anticipated new restaurant from chef Eric Fréchon (L’Epicure and Mini Palais). Open seven days a week but requiring advance reservations and suffering, by many accounts, from atrocious service that undermines Fréchon’s delicious Norman-inflected cooking.

Practical information

Address: In the front of Gare Saint-Lazare, rue Intérieure, 75008
Nearest transport: Saint-Lazare (3, 12, 13, 14)
Hours: Open every day from 7:30am-midnight
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
E-mail: 01 44 90 80 80
Average price for lunch: 6-100€
Average price for dinner: 60-100€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano for Condé Nast Traveler (2015) “Chef Eric Frechon’s welcome respite in the busy Gare St-Lazare serves elevated French home cooking, including lamb shoulder confit and veal entrecôte with mushrooms.”

Patricia Wells for Condé Nast Traveler (2015) “An honest update of the Parisian brasserie, it serves a changing anthem of favorites—meaty daubes, rich mussels in cream, classic green bean salad with artichokes and hazelnuts.”

Atabula (2014) “On a d’abord l’impression que ce lieu a toujours existé, que l’on y arrive en habitué et que l’on en repart avec le sourire du bien-nourri.”

Not Drinking Poison in Paris (2014) “The difficulty of attaining a reservation is now proportionate to the quality of the food and service and ambience on offer, which is to say it’s no biggie.”

The Financial Times (2014) “Colas’s food is very good, particularly a whole mackerel en gelée, and Tuesday’s special, a fricassée of chicken with vin jaune. Only frosty receptionists let down another young, enthusiastic and talented team.”

John Talbott (2013) “OK but nothing to write home about.”

The New York Times (2013) “An irresistible roster of classic and contemporary French comfort food, including, during our visit, an excellent mackerel terrine with horseradish sauce and morels sautéed in vin jaune that we had as starters, and the sole Dieppoise, in an egg-enriched fish fumet with mushrooms and mussels, and veal steak sautéed with morels and baby potatoes that followed. At the urging of our neighbors, we concluded with a sublime dark chocolate tart and a sauté of Mirabelle plums with lemon verbena.”

Simon Says (2013) “L’ambiance est assez bon enfant, avec le mélange propre aux gares. Le lieu fonctionne d’autant mieux qu’il est constamment abreuvé par un défilé impressionnant de passants: c’est comme de rester dans la voiture pendant le lavage auto.”

Meg Zimbeck (2013) “Lazare is not an open and friendly haven for travelers or gastronomes. It is a club masquerading as a restaurant, employing the sort of velvet rope snobbery that one expects to find at Le Montana or a Costes establishment. There is nothing Eric Fréchon’s kitchen could have produced which could have salvaged the worst service I’ve received in nine years of writing about Paris restaurants.”

L’Express (2013) “Cette fabuleuse bistronomie déliée, précise, nostalgique et moderne… En un mot, glorieusement française.”

Table à Découvert (2013) “Oh la, on m’avait pourtant prévenu, mais je confirme, elles font partie des meilleures cuvées de moules de Bouchot que j’ai pu goûter dans ma vie.”

Le Figaro (2013) “Une carte dense comme horaires SNCF mais ouverte à tous  les passages: sandwich Paris-Beurre dès potron minet, journaliers de bonnes façons (du lundi quenelle au samedi omelette), bourgeoise en filet de sole Dieppoise, mondanités en fritures de gambas ketchup maison…”

Patricia Wells (2013) ” I’d go back again and again for the moist, perfectly cooked lamb, falling off the bone, set on a bed of well-seasoned bulgar, the meat itself flavored with black olives, tomato, thin slices of lemon, and whole pieces of star anise.”

Atabula (2013) “Le dimanche, Lazare propose non pas des brunchs, mais des «déjeuners de grands-mères». Au menu: poulet rôti, pommes de terre grenaille, flan aux œufs ou tarte aux pommes. Si ce retour aux sources culinaires séduira peut-être certains Parisiens, il faudra tout de même expliquer aux  grands-mères, les vraies, pourquoi plutôt qu’aller gentiment déjeuner chez elles, ils resteraient sur le quai…”

 

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