Le Verre Volé sur Mer

This is no longer included among the favorite 350 addresses that make up Our Guide to Paris Restaurants. We’ve maintained this page so that you can refer to the practical information and other reviews of interest. Feel free to share your own opinion in the comments.

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Our review: It came as a total surprise that this, the seafood offshoot of beloved wine bar Le Verre Volé, would be one of my least favorite dining experiences in Paris. Let’s be blunt: this was the worst meal I’ve had in several years. Uncomfortable churn-em’ highchair seating and blindingly bright lamps could be forgiven if there was more than one dish that beckoned a second bite.

We ordered everything on the menu and finished nothing, not even the plate of six Maldon oysters (18 euros) that arrived after everything else, floating warmly in a pool of salted meltwater. I’m not sure how Cyril Bordarier, who is generally respected in the  Paris wine and restaurant scene, has created something with such an astringent atmosphere, with so little wine (the number of whites and reds can be counted on one hand), and with food that is remarkably, memorably unpleasant to eat.

– Meg Zimbeck, November 2014

Practical information

Address: 53 rue de Lancry, 75010
Nearest transport: Jacques Bonsergent (5)
Hours: Closed for dinner on Monday & Tuesday. Serving bento lunch Monday-Friday. Small French style plates (like at Le Verre Volé) at night and for lunch on weekends.
Reservations: accepted for dinner only
Telephone: 01 48 03 21 38
Average price for lunch: €10-19
Average price for dinner: €20-39
Style of cuisine: seafood, small plates, bento
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

Table à Découvert (2015) “Le «bento» du jour à 14 €, une explosion de couleurs entre riz blanc et noir (qui lui donne une couleur violette), chou fleur, seiche tendre et encre, purée de je dirais potimarron, feuilles de salades diverses assaisonnées de cette terrible sauce (dashi, sauce soja), crevettes séchées, noisettes, chou rouge/pomme/raisins secs et truite crue.”

Le Figaro (2014) “Bento du jour (truite de banka crue marinée, chou kale, patates douces sautées, brocolis sauce huître…): frais comme un jardin marin. Entremets pistache, vanille et perles du Japon: délicat.”

Not Drinking Poison in Paris (2014) “The seaside version is, alas, a rigid, cack-handed cash-in. From the Little Mermaid wall artwork to the miniscule wine list to the confoundingly amateurish cuisine, it screams of a concept in search of a vision, or, at very least, a competent chef… Across the board, dishes lacked all salt and acid… the entire effort has been phoned-in with scant attention to quality. Bordarier is capable of good restaurateurism. But for now he’s gone fishin’.”

A Nous Paris (2014) “À deux pas du canal Saint-Martin, l’institution-mère avait déjà les yeux dans l’eau. Voilà qu’elle y pêche ses idées. Après son bistrot (10e), sa cave à vins (11e) et son épicerie (11e), le Verre volé de Cyril Bordarier inaugure donc une façon de “boissonnerie”. Dans les esprits, une dînette jouant sur le verre et l’épuisette.”

Le Fooding (2014) “We succumbed the other night to the divine XXL Scottish knifefish, served warm and almost raw with an herb pesto and croutons; the really good Saint-Jean-de-Luz mackerel ceviche with tiger’s milk, sweet chili aioli sauce and fried Chulpi corn kernels; the excellent smoked and lacquered herring, eggplant in an Asian marinade, killer rice with saffron, piquillos and pimento, charred with a torch before dinner service.”

Gault & Millau (2014) “Cette minuscule table marine se concentre sur une formule toute simple : deux entrées du jour au choix (de très jolis rouleaux de printemps truite Banka nouilles soba et purée d’aubergine pour notre compte) et un bento du jour (qu’il est d’ailleurs possible d’emporter) aux produits hyper frais et au dressage soigné… Service plein de gentillesse, compensant largement l’inconfort des tabourets auxquels il manque des repose-pieds. Bières, thé ou vin au verre pour accompagner.”

9 thoughts on “Le Verre Volé sur Mer”

  1. The Mouth says:

    Hi Jonathan, I’m glad you had a good experience. The chef who was cooking during my visit has since left. Perhaps it’s better now. I won’t be returning to try it again because the manager of this place provided the now-departed chef with the personal phone number of another blogger who wrote a negative review and didn’t object when that chef threatened to knock that blogger’s teeth in. Paris is full of brilliant restaurants. I don’t need to give my money to bullies.

  2. Jonathan Kent says:

    I ate there last night and thought the food was stunning. Sorry to disagree with you. The only plat of the five we ordered I would have given up was the oysters – because so long as it a good oyster, an oyster is an oyster is an oyster.
    The other four each hit a variety of perfect notes, subtly contrasting with one another, from a lobster sashimi in broth to a carpaccio of dory, bream on olive tapenade – all excellent. The wine was OK, and frankly overpriced, but it was a memorable meal. I’d say ‘judge for yourselves’ – the above review reflects an experience so different from mine that I can only conclude that it’s very much a matter of personal taste. It’s a little over priced but aside from that I had a wonderful time

  3. winnie says:

    Actually I find that a candid review of the restaurant, that is the food, atmosphere, service and ambience, pointing out weak spots as well as highlights, is helpful. I don’t need to know if someone had a meaningful personal interaction with the chef and I’m not the only New Yorker who got bored with reading about the interior of a certain critic’s mouth.

  4. Alice says:

    Interesting, I had already read mixed reviews about Bordarier’s latest venture but it was hard to believe. On a different note, it’s really great to see that PBM is now leaning towards more honest reviews and less news sharing. I would just disagree with Alexandra’s comment on French press being only almost entirely boosterism, that’s overly simplistic.

  5. Stephen Grant says:

    Good for you, Meg. If we can’t count on you to give us the straight goods, what’s the point?

  6. Alexandra says:

    Meg, thank you for being frank. The state of the food press in French is almost entirely boosterism, pure and simple. Very important to have pointed opinion in the Anglophone media since it serves a public that has, maybe, five – ten whole meals to eat in Paris while traveling. Visitors don’t have the same luxury as locals, and given the high prices, and, most often, service and booking problems, that you find so often in Paris, there is a lot at stake for diners. Glad to see PBM entering into more serious opinion-mongering as well as the aggregation you already do so well.

  7. Phillamb168 says:

    Food in Paris is for the most part way too expensive to leave my only evening out per week to chance, I really appreciate this sort of honesty – there’s often too much ‘Oh la la c’est PARIS, la city of lights!’ in anglophone (and francophone, if we’re honest) reviews. To a higher standard, you must be held.

  8. Meg says:

    Hi Alice, thanks for your comment. Naturally, I disagree. This isn’t a grenade, it’s an opinion. And as far as I’m concerned, there is far too little analysis happening in what passes as food writing in Paris today. Our own site has been guilty of simply sharing the news about new openings, without weighing in about whether they are actually worth our readers’ time and money. This new opening is not. And from now on we’re going to be a lot more direct (which is not to say unkind) in sharing how we really feel about Paris restaurants. A food scene needs criticism, and a site like this needs discussion (and to be held to a high standard), so keep the comments coming.

  9. Alice Marshall says:

    Okay, you had a bad meal, but this ‘review’ really isn’t food criticism. It’s grenade throwing, like you did with Lazare. A real food critic edits out their personal emotional response and seeks to understand what went wrong. PbM shoots from the hip, which isn’t grown or useful to the reader.

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