View larger map
More and more we’ve been finding ourselves around the border of the 9th and 10th arrondissments, on and around rue des Petites Écuries and rue Richer, a stretch of real estate that Alexander Lobrano calls “an urban axis that offers a fascinating lesson in the realities of life in Paris”. And, we would add, some great food.
Here’s where we’re eating. Click on the restaurant names for all the details.
Vivant You may or may not find Pierre Jancou on the premises, but his lusty cooking style and zealous produce sourcing are always in full evidence.
L’Office Revamped last fall, with a new (American) chef in the kitchen, this cool neighborhood bistro pulls off great contemporary cooking with ease.
Big Fernand Queue up here for juicy, American-style burgers, with great French toppings, served by a team of enthusiastic, fast-moving (for real!) mustachioed men in plaid. No truck chasing necessary.
L’Orient d’Or There’s plenty of heat at this Hunanese table, our go-to for a chili-laden Chinese feast. Our favorites include the fiery lamb with cumin, the General Tso’s Chicken, and sizzling cabbage.
Albion There’s nothing perfidious (or English, really) about this spacious cave à manger, opened late last year by Hayden Clout and chef Matt Ong Fish, both exes of Fish. A fine place for some bottle shopping.
Autour d’Un Verre Join neighborhood locals and the vins natures crowd at this beloved little bistro for hearty, straightforward cooking.
Nanashi For a healthy lunch, it’s hard to beat Kaori Endo’s colorful, organic fare at this bobo canteen. (Though the tarts and cakes make this one to consider for afternoon tea, too).
What about you? Do you have any favorite addresses in this area?
I do have some off the beaten path reccos (mostly since I live in this area) – try the Tibetan at Tashi Tagyé, also on Rue Richer. Simple but excellent food at great value. Also
Tchaikhana de Boukhara is a great try for Uzbek cuisine.
Ooh, thanks, M. The Tibetan is great, I agree. I haven’t tried the Uzbek spot.
- The great Italian traiteur Coopérativa Latte Cisternino, 46 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière,
- Kiku
- Urfa Dürüm, only half a block from rue des Petites Ecuries.
And Özslem. There is such a thing as a good kebab, just as there is such a thing as good fish&chips (perhaps not in Paris, alas).
Great addresses all, Parigi.
Nothing English about Albion? Clearly you haven’t had their (yummy) sticky toffee pudding or their posset.
You’re right, Ptitpois, there are definitely some (delicious) English touches. But I wouldn’t classify the whole menu as English. Would you? P.S. The ladies at Le Bal know a thing or two about posset.
Le Galopin! Romain Tischenko’s ultra-fresh and seasonal menu is phenomenal (call a week ahead for a table)
We’re fans of Le Galopin, Lindsey. It’s on the other side of the 10th, though, an area that deserves its own post. (Coming soon?)
While most of Passage Brady is to be avoided, I love Velan, just inside on te right. It’s by far the best spice shop I know.
camille, try the massive cash & carry shop on rue cail. that’s where i get my supplies, being indian and all. it puts most supermarkets i know back home to shame.
I would, actually. I do think Albion is the only gastropub in Paris.
I think rue Cail is a great alternative to the horrible passage Brady
i agree. but that’s probably for a different post.