Jeu de Quilles by Barbra Austin

Jeu de Quilles

Benoit Reix packs them into his tiny, bright bistro, watching from behind the counter as diners happily devour dishes from his small, always-changing menu. Meats come from next-door-neighbor Hugo Desnoyer, and the wines are natural.

Practical information

Address: 45 rue Boulard, 75014
Nearest transport: Mouton-Duvernet (4)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 53 90 76 22
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French, French bistro

Reviews of interest

Patricia Wells (2011) “The tiny, friendly, open spot offers Desnoyer’s lamb from Aubrac, beef from the Auvergne and Normandy (photo), succulent pork, as well as fresh langoustines and razor clams, heirloom tomato salad, and a carefully selected list of wines…I’ll go back: The place is too easy, friendly, and generous not to.”

Barbra Austin for Girls’ Guide to Paris (2010) “…the best ingredients served simply and thoughtfully…”

Bruno Verjus (2009) “…le meilleur des viandes, poissons et légumes…la spontanéité dans le coeur comme dans l’assiette, le naturel mélange terre/mer (délicieuse tortilla de pomme de terre et palourdes tièdes…)”

François Simon (2010) “…tranche de boudin, salade de tarbais, carré d’agneau Desnoyer… boeuf de Galice, faux-filet, San Daniele, burrata, saucisson de l’Ardèche…Tout est dans la netteté et dans l’honnêteté…”

John Talbott (2008) “…we both chose the veal which with sliced veggies and fries were all again (sorry) very good product.  Our dessert was a shared clafoutis of mirabelles and again was quite good.”

Caroline Mignot (2008) “…la noix de veau, tendre, encore un peu rosée à l’intérieur, délicieusement saisie dans ses sucs de cuisson, une pincée d’estragon…Une redescente exquise dans les joies de Paris.”


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