The man behind the curtain in this white-on-white, Kubrick-esque space in the new Mandarin Oriental is molecular master Thierry Marx.
Practical information
Address: 251 rue Saint-Honoré (in the Mandarin Oriental hotel), 75001
Nearest transport: Tuileries (1)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 70 98 78 88
Website
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Average price for lunch: more than 100€
Average price for dinner: more than 100€
Style of cuisine: modern French
Special attributes: molecular gastronomy, haute cuisine, renowned chef, valet parking
Type of crowd: suits, foodies, style hounds
Interior: polished & modern
Atmosphere: formal
Reviews of interest
- François Simon (2011) “…une sorte de galaxie post El Bulli, traumatisée par Ferran Adria et cherchant dans l’obscurité l’interrupteur. Le serveur annonce l’entrée, pardon …un <opus>, (anagramme de oups) : un œuf défractionné avec six petits pois qui montent sur un toboggan de parmesan. Est ce bon ? Pas franchement. Mais, c’est complexe (dix saveurs au minimum) , ce qui, en soi, n’est pas un goût.”
- Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “..ça déménage, bouscule les papilles, les yeux, les habitudes. Balance entre les modes. Flirte avec le moléculaire, retombe sur le réel….c’est une expérience remuante, fine, vive, légère, vous laissant, in fine, l’estomac net et sans nulle lourdeur, le palais nettoyé, remis à neuf, sous le regard, apaisant, apaisé, d’un service enthousiaste.”
- Alexander Lobrano (2011) “Main courses will also demonstrate Marx’s prolific gastronomic imagination, commitment to healthy eating, and fascination with both Japan and new culinary techniques, including his signature risotto of bean sprouts and truffles in soy milk foam…”
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