Chicken consommé with foie gras and wild mushrooms

Vivant Table

Pierre Jancou has relaunched Vivant Table with chef Sota (ex-Troisgros, Robuchon, Stella Maris & Toyo) at the helm and more ambitious menus at 29/39€ at lunch and 55€ at dinner. There’s also a carte blanch menu with 7-8 dishes (no choice). The wine remains all-natural, but the cooking is better than ever. Update: Jancou sold Vivant Table and Vivant Cave in December 2013 to the owners of Racines.

Practical information

Address: 43 rue des Petites Ecuries, 75010
Nearest transport: Bonne Nouvelle (8, 9)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
Telephone: 01 42 46 43 55
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, renowned chef, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Thierry Richard (2012) “Il en sort des assiettes très travaillées, parfumées, à l’équilibre délicat dont la matière première reste de toute première qualité (cet épatant talent de Pierre Jancou pour le sourcing). L’adresse y a gagné en sophistication et un saut quantitique a été réalisé, menant les desserts à un excellent niveau.”

Bruno Verjus (2012) “Le chef Sota arbore un parcours idéal, Troisgros, Stella Maris, Robuchon, Toyo… rien de moins ! Aidé de son second Masaki san, ils caressent une cuisine subtile, élégante où les mets se mêlent de régaler. Une cuisine cuisinée. Hommage à la cuisine du début du XX ème siècle, évocation d’Edouard Nignon, rêve de mangeur… Voici le pâté en croûte de ris de veau accommodé de champignons, de langoustines et de noix fraîches.”

Le Figaro (2011) “L’atmosphère gouail­leuse et le service à son affaire donnent l’impression que les murs ont toujours abrité ce bistrot à vins, nature exclusivement.”

Barbra Austin (2011) “…plump Challans duck leg, with seared cabbage and a hunk of crisp polenta with deep, toasted flavor…an absurdly good burrata…Relying on high heat, timing, and good seasoning, there’s nothing precious about the food here. Unless, of course, you’re talking about the price…”

Patricia Wells (2011) “We ushered in fall with another hit: crunchy polenta topped with wild pleurote (oyster) mushrooms …A main course of Challans duck – moist, tender, meaty – was set upon a golden bed of mashed potatoes with the crunch of coarse salt…”

Thierry Richard (2011) “…je retrouve dans ses plats une forme d’animalité rustique, basique sans être simpliste, comme une cuisine ramenée à son essentielle volupté…”

David Lebovitz (2011) “Vivant is funky, and fun…I wanted the poulard…with crisp skin and a mound of glowingly fresh vegetables….I chose the Lieu de ligne (line-caught pollack)…we decided to share a plate of Italian cheeses; a wonderfully salty, crumbly pecorino, and a milky wedge of Tallegio…”

Phyllis Flick (2011) “It may be a new restaurant but you wouldn’t know from the decor, with its faded charm and cool ambiance…simple but well-prepared cuisine using only exceptional products.”

John Talbott (2011) “The carte is simple: lots of bio-natural-organic-etc wines (look, this is the guy who did it at La Cremerie and Les Racines, why not keep the winning formula?), today – 4 starters (Parma ham, burrata, foie gras mi-cuit and greens) and 4 mains (pork, duck, gnocchi with ragout and a fish from St Jean de Luz)…”

Caroline Mignot (2011)”Personnellement, je n’ai aucun regret à avoir payé 40 € pour mon entrée et mon plat à midi…Les asperges blanches cuites al dente, mais bien saisies par endroits…volaille toute désossée se mange bouchée après bouchée avec béatitude.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2011) “…quelques produits de belle extraction…vindicatif et tatoué patron militant les flacons qui font aujourd’hui l’alter-vigne nature et biodynamique…voilà au vif du bo-bon appétit ! Délicieusement caricatural.”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “What Jancou serves is good, solid, carefully sourced and prepared food, with a strong feint at the Emiglia-Romagnan kitchen…everything we ate was delicious, the venue is just beautiful, and there’s a great ambience here.”

Sophie Brissaud (2011) “…une cuisine chaleureuse, populaire, à base d’ingrédients exceptionnels.”

Bruno Verjus (2011) “Ardoise sage pour ce premier jour où l’on retrouve les intuitions de ses précédents succès… Des producteurs auteurs, des produits travaillés à minima…Les prix sont Jancouseques, c’est à dire moins sages.”

 

 

 

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5 thoughts on “Vivant Table”

  1. Dear Meg,

    We haven’t changed the prices since January and they are now fixed.
    It’s 29 (starter-main or main-desert) or 39 for starter-main-desert at lunch and 55 at night for amuse bouche-starter-main and desert (with choices for lunch and diner).
    And always the carte Blanche menu with 7 to 8 dishes.

    Best,

    pierre

  2. Hi Sarah,

    They change their format pretty regularly, but during my most recent visit there was no choice for some courses and a choice between two dishes for other courses. You can see a photo of the menu here (but please note that the prices have since gone up).

    Cheers,
    Meg

  3. Bonjour! Had a question about Vivant that I can’t seem to answer online right now (w/ their website under construction): with their dinner menus are you able to choose your food for each course or is it a chef’s tasting menu where they send you out the same thing everyone else is eating that evening? Thanks so much!

  4. Pierre is the shit…… God bless you
    In fact I have to admit that I’ve just heard of you tonight through a Greek friend (the terroirista) while talking about Cornelissen, Arianna Occhipinti, COS, Patrick Piuze, Salvo Foti and the likes

    I taste anything but drink what I F#@cking love (period) and ain’t no Roland wines……. The hell with them!

    NO OAK – NO FRUIT BOMBS – NO PARKER-IZATION

    LONG LIVE BALANCE & TERROIR DRIVEN WINE

    On another note natural, organic & bio if you do it for the fame & publicity, don’t come to me

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