What life was really like during the week after the Paris attacks

La Robe et Le Palais on November 18 - photo by Michaël Dandrieux
Photo by Michaël Dandrieux

Contrary to most news reports, Paris is not on lockdown. The city’s residents, and especially those of us who live, work and play on the city’s east side, are shaken up. But together we’re getting through it. Here is an incomplete attempt to show what that looked like during the week after the attacks on November 13th. 

Marche des Enfants Rouges creperie
Lines stretch around the corner for socca and crêpes at the Marché des Enfants Rouges

Saturday November 21st & Sunday the 22nd

  • The Marché des Enfants Rouges, which had been closed the previous weekend due to the attacks, is in full swing again and nothing curbs the long lines for crêpes.

Friday November 20th

  • A group of Parisian restaurants have launched “L’opération Grandes Tablées” for the weekend, pushing smaller tables together to great large communal tables to promote tolerance, friendship and sharing. These include Office52 Rue du Faubourg St. DenisLe Richer and Rosemary, among others [Libération]
Café de la Nouvelle Mairie is packed with a crowd for Beaujolais Nouveau festivities

Thursday November 19th

The annual "night before" party at La Robe et Le Palais on November 18, 2015. "Throw a stone and you'd hit one the pirates of the wine community." Photo and quote by Michaël Dandrieux
The annual “night before” party at La Robe et Le Palais on November 18, 2015. “Throw a stone and you’d hit one the pirates of the wine community.” Photo and quote by Michaël Dandrieux

Wednesday November 18th

  • Celebrations of Beaujolais Nouveau begin with La Robe et Le Palais‘ annual “night-before” party, coinciding with the restaurant’s 20th anniversary. The all-night party includes appearances by most of the winemakers whose bottles will be poured all over town tomorrow. Michaël Dandrieux says that one could “throw a stone and you’d hit one of the pirates of the wine community. I organized the impromtu group picture [above] because I thought it was important to have a sense of what was happening.”
  • Disneyland and the towers of Notre-Dame reopen to the public.
Le Cambodge reopens on November 17 with a Champagne filled party
Le Cambodge reopens on November 17 with a Champagne filled party

Tuesday November 17th

  • The Tous au Bistrot! initiative promoted by Le Fooding is encouraging everyone to dine out this evening and to observe a moment of silence at 9pm “to commemorate the victims of the attacks, to support all those working in the restaurant and entertainment industry, targeted by these deadly attacks and in solidarity with Paris, France will not give into fear. Let’s sing, despite the tears.”

Tous au Bistrot! on Tuesday, November 17

  • We hear reports of food markets flouting the ban and opening today. The Marché d’Aligre is in full swing just across from our offices, while the Marché Ornano in the 18th is one among others doing business as usual.

    Signs of life at Aligre on Tuesday morning
    Signs of life at Aligre on Tuesday morning
  • Most museums and tourist sites are open today, including the Eiffel Tower; the Louvre is closed as usual on Tuesdays but will be open tomorrow. Disneyland Paris, still exceptionally closed today, is also due to reopen on Wednesday.

_tousaubistrot___jesuisenterrasse________des_hashtags_pour_que_paris_reste_une_f__te_8017.jpeg_north_780x_white

Monday November 16th

  • The twin hashtags #jesuisenterrasse (I am out on the terrasse) and #tousaubistrot (everybody to the bistro) are being used in the thousands to celebrate life and dispel fear of public gatherings.
Sunday on the terrasse at Ten Belles, courtesy of the cafés Facebook page
Sunday on the terrasse at Ten Belles, courtesy of the café’s Facebook page
  • The city’s major department stores and shopping centers reopen for business.

Sunday November 15th

  • Also in the 10th arrondissement, popular brunch spot Holybelly reopens with a post on Instagram saying “it is time for us to roll up that front door and let people in, welcome them with a big smile, as we do, put good food and good coffee on the table, as we do, and bring a bit of comfort in what are going to be sad and strange times for the foreseeable future. We all have to do our part to fight whatever it is that’s going on, and not just in Paris but in the world. A good feed might not seem like much but that’s what we do best and we believe it can make a real difference.”
All quiet at the Bastille market on Sunday morning
All quiet at the Bastille market on Sunday morning
  • On the other hand, the Bastille market, normally thronged with thousands of shoppers, is eerily quiet on Sunday morning. This market, along with all the other outdoor and covered markets around the city, are prohibited by the city from opening until at least next Saturday.
Saturday morning cheese shopping at Fromagerie Jouannault
Saturday morning cheese shopping at Fromagerie Jouannault

Saturday November 14th

  • Paris by Mouth cancels the day’s food tours with the erroneous assumption that the shops in the northern Marais – just a few blocks from the attack at Le Bataclan – will be closed. On the contrary, Benjamin Turquier is still selling his prize winning croissants at Tout Autour du Pain. The line is long for cheese Fromagerie Jouannualt. At Caractère de Cochon, the owner slices a hay-smoked terrine and tells his clients that nothing will make him change his opening hours.
le mary celeste red cross cocktail | parisbymouth.com
Le Mary Celeste staff after Friday’s attacks

Friday November 13th

Photo by Amber McDonald via Flickr
Photo by Amber McDonald via Flickr

Rest in Peace

Among the many lives that were tragically lost, here are a few with links to the Paris restaurant community. 

  • Chloë Buissinot, who worked at Le Verre Volé L’épicerie, died from injuries sustained at Le Petit Cambodge [via Le JDD]
  • Guillaume Le Dramp, a server at Chez Janou in the Marais, was killed at La Belle Équipe [via New York Times]
  • Cousins Pierre Innocenti and Stéphane Albertini, respectively the  co-owner and floor manager of Chez Livio in the suburb of Neuilly, were killed in the attack on the Bataclan  [via Le Parisian]

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