Porte 12

Overseen by Singapore starred chef André Chiang, Porte 12 opened during the rentrée season of 2014 with Vincent Crepel commanding the open kitchen and Thibault Passinge directing the dining room. Passinge’s enthusiasm for his budding wine list is infectious, and the dishes were some of the best we’ve had in a long time: chinchard draped over Ratte potatoes was visually reminiscent of sashimi, and smoked basil tied it all together in an unexpected way. The volaille with fermented corn was overwhelmingly vulvar in presentation but/and absolutely delicious. With a lunch menu priced at 28 or 35€ we expect door number 12 to be a revolving one.

– Meg Zimbeck, September 2014

Practical information

Address: 12 rue des Messageries, 75010
Nearest transport: Poissonnière (7) 
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner; Open Saturday for dinner only
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 42 46 22 64
E-mail: reservation@porte12.com
Average price for lunch: 40-59€
Average price for dinner: 60-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website   Facebook   Book Online

Reviews of interest

Condé Nast Traveler (2015) “This is the hot reservation to get. Backed by Singaporean chef/restaurateur André Chiang and open just five months, it serves duck hearts in onion broth with samphire, and hake with chanterelles.”

Le Monde (2015) “Je suis sorti perplexe d’un déjeuner (35€) arrosé au «sydre », cidre haute couture d’Eric Bordelet (24€). Dorade/ratte du Touquet/basilic fumé, volaille des Landes/fregola maïs et pousse de brioche/riz/poivre de Java. Certes, je n’ai rien laissé – chaque plat ne contenant guère que quelques dizaines de grammes de matière première – et l’ensemble était agréable. Mais restait l’impression d’avoir participé à un défilé de mode et d’avoir dégusté le travail d’un couturier plus que celui d’un cuisinier.”

The Wall Street Journal (2014) “Porte 12 was the most anticipated restaurant opening of the rentrée (post-summer) season this year, thanks to the involvement of Michelin-starred, Singapore-based chef André Chiang. He has entrusted the kitchen to Vincent Crépel, who mingles ideas from beyond France’s borders on the plate.”

Goût de News (2014) “Une capsule de melon qui craque sous la dent pour libérer un jus de melon. Rafraîchissant. A côté, une chips de riz noir aux graines de moutarde. Croustillante et relevée. Et puis vient l’heure de ce phénoménal risotto. Réalisé à partir de pousses de soja cuites et enrobées dans une crème de chou-fleur, il est agrémenté, non pas de parmesan comme le veut la tradition italienne, mais de Belper Knolle, un fromage suisse au lait cru de vache enveloppé de poussière d’ail, de poivre et de sel d’Himalaya.”

The New York Times T Magazine (2014) “… he creates dishes like steamed yellow pollack garnished with salmon eggs and Swiss chard sauced with a deeply resonant fish fumet — all sprinkled with deep-fried garlic.”

Table à Découvert (2014) “Il y a des choses exquises et il y a une cuisson à laquelle je n’adhère pas, une prise de risque non calculée et une viande mal aimée. Moi je sais qu’après ça, j’ai envie d’une viande à la braise, au charbon. A vous de faire votre opinion.”

John Talbott (2014) “Go back? In a flash.  If we can get in.”

A Nous Paris (2014) “Et c’est assurément l’adresse de la rentrée, avec quelques plats qui frôlent le génie comme ce risotto de pousses de soja enveloppé dans de la crème de chou-fleur, sur lequel le serveur râpe un fromage de vache suisse au lait cru.”

L’Express (2014) “Le catcheur Crépel cogne là où ça fait mal et on en redemande. Le gourmet parisien n’a pas fini de frapper à la Porte 12.”

Patricia Wells (2014) “There’s much to love, even embrace about this small, 30-seat restaurant with its simple, bright, contemporary décor, a bustling open kitchen, sincere and attentive service, not to mention straightforward, yet sophisticated, signature fare that makes me want to come back for dinner…”

Les Grands Ducs (2014) “ll envoie de sa cambuse high tech des assiettes étonnantes, vibrantes, sophistiquées, parfois brutales, parfois caressantes, toujours délicieuses… C’est peu dire qu’il y a du savoir-faire et de l’imagination dans cette cuisine.”

Figaroscope (2014) “…il y a de la lumière au no 12.”

Le Fooding (2014) “Son menu kick boxait nos papilles extatiques dès le premier soir. Maquereau délicat saisi à la flamme, oint d’un transcendantal «beurre» de toro japonais (gras de ventrèche des grands thons), sorbet concombre ligne claire, salicornes et algues gorgées d’abysses…”

Lost in Cheeseland (2014) “Chef Vincent Crepel… inventively plays up seasonal produce in a style greatly informed both by his travels through Asia and Europe and his experience under the tutelage of venerated chef André Chiang… the meal truly reached a crescendo with a short rib cooked sous vide for 24 hours at 56°c, wonderfully tender and covered in a thin veil of bamboo ash and black tea.”

Atabula (2014) “André Chiang vient d’investir dans un restaurant parisien dans lequel il laisse carte blanche au chef Vincent Crépel pour réaliser une cuisine française spontanée. Il revient sur le dynamisme de la gastronomie singapourienne et propose une autre vision du respect des saisons.”

The Pourcel Brothers “Le chef y propose un menu unique parfaitement étudié, il y joue sur les saveurs et les textures qui ont fait sa marque de fabrique à Singapour. Nul doute que la presse initiée, les gastronomes et les chefs vont s’y presser… il faudra réserver car la salle est toute petite!”

One thought on “Porte 12”

  1. hmmm says:

    Based on positive recommendations I had read and heard recently, I made plans to go to Porte 12 last week for lunch. With restaurants like le Servan, le Baratin, Gare au Gorille, places in the rue Paul Bert, etc. offering high quality lunch menus with starter/main course/dessert + glass of wine for approx. 25 to 35 euros, that is my standard everyday lunch price range. Unfortunately, within seconds of sitting down, I realized that Porte 12 was much pricier than I was willing to swing for on a normal day (no special occasion or deductible business lunch). There was no 28 euro lunch menu – only a 35 euro menu (upon seeing the 35 euro menu I asked to make sure). Unfortunately, I immediately also felt pressured to buy water rather than receiving a simple free carafe, and at approx. 4.75 euros for flat or sparkling water, that is a significant addition to lunch for a solo diner. What’s more, the only wines by the glass are 10 euros per glass, whereas in similar high quality restaurants, prices generally start at 5 or 6 euros on up. In looking over the day’s proposed lunch menu, there was not a great deal of choice, nor did it look significantly different from what the other previously mentioned restaurants offer. At 13h30 on a Thursday, there were only two other tables that were occupied…so I assume that others agree that this is not the best value as a lunch option. I sat there and did a quick calculation – with the basic lunch menu + 1 glass of wine + plus apparently imposed purchase of water, my total would come to 50 euros without coffee. While I don’t wish to sound cheap, this was beyond what I was willing to pay for an hour’s lunch. That said, the atmosphere was lovely and I am sure the food is very good. I would gladly return for a special occasion or lengthy dinner out with friends, but not for lunch, unless it were a business lunch. There are too many other high quality offerings in Paris that make the extra lunchtime expense of Porte 12 unnecessary.

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