- Chrisos gets good Bang! for his buck at this new Canal-side viande and vins natures venue, where the beef comes from the Aubrac, Argentina, Scotland and Kansas. The black Angus steak was a hit (even though the cut wasn’t specified), and “the sauce of cocoa and summer savory was fun.” He also visited Big Fernand, which he calls “the most successful and balanced” of the new burger joints.
- And speaking of les burgers: François-Régis Gaudry gives Le Camion Qui Fume only a “bon” due to flaccid fries and a long wait (nice watch, F-R). Ann Mah has much higher praise for the “Cheesy” at Blend: “It braids together tangy, sweet, and savory, balancing the three on a perfectly spongy brioche bun, the kind of bready vehicle you fantasize about if you spend your spare time daydreaming about the perfect hamburger. (Yes, I do).” We do, too, Ann. We do, too.
- Alexander Lobrano lays some love on new local Les Saisons, a “warm and friendly” place where he finds a “generously served” lentil salad, rumsteak served with “poignant” potato croquettes he compares to tater-tots, and — that rarest of Paris birds — an “impeccably well cooked” risotto.
- Patricia Wells confesses “it’s been years” since her last visit to Willi’s Wine Bar, and goes on to call her recent meal there “a revelation.” “I love their attention to detail, food that seems intent on satisfying the customer, a place that is what it is (fabulous!) and not trying overtly to prove anything,” she says, adding the wine list is “hard to beat anywhere in the world.”
- “Adeline Grattard’s cooking hits the palate,” says Bruno Verjus after a return to Yam’Tcha. “Seasonings in orbit, enveloping and whirling with their unexpected aromas…I know of no other cuisine that comes close.” There you have it.
- Caroline Mignot takes refuge from the arctic cold at Coutume, where she’s “reheated” by a “digestible, light” tomato and farro soup, the spices in the carrot cake transport her to “an Indian restaurant in eastern Paris,” and the siphon-brewed coffee is “exciting.”
Earlier this month
- Albion by Gilles Pudlowski
- L’Ami Jean by François-Régis Gaudry
- L’Avant Comptoir by François Simon
- Benoît by François Simon
- La Cantine du Troquet Dupleix by John Talbott
- Au Clocher de Montmartre by Alexander Lobrano & Caroline Mignot
- La Compagnie de Bretagne by François Simon
- Le Coq Rico by Alexander Lobrano, John Talbott, Patricia Wells & François-Régis Gaudry
- Fish – La Boissonnerie by Gilles Pudlowski
- Le Galopin by Thierry Richard
- Gyoza Bar by Patricia Wells
- Le Pantruche by John Talbott
- Racines by François-Régis Gaudry
- Taillevent by Patricia Wells
- Thoumieux by Chrisos
- Yam’Tcha by Clotilde Dusoulier
- Yoom by Patricia Wells
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