Roseval restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Roseval

Young chefs Michael Greenwold and Simone Tondo worked previously at Le Chateaubriand and Rino, and the influence of those kitchens can be felt at their joint venture in Ménilmontant. Modern French  cooking, like this take on beef tartare with horseradish granita (photo above), can be found throughout the no-choice menu for 40€. There’s an insider (but not exclusive) feeling here in the bare bones dining room that’s enlivened by a very fashionable young clientele in a corner of Paris ignored by most tourists.  NOTE: As of September 2014, Michael Greenwold has left the restaurant.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 1 rue d’Eupatoria, 75020
Nearest transport: Ménilmontant (2)
Hours: Monday-Friday, 7:30-10pm; closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Book a week in advance
Telephone: 09 53 56 24 14
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

Le Fooding (2012) “La Meilleure Table 2013″ – best table of the year.

Not Drinking Poison in Paris (2012) “The creative team at Roseval – chefs Michael Greenwold and Simone Tondo and sommelier Erika Biswell – formerly worked at some of these places (Le Chateaubriand, Rino, and Le Chateaubriand, respectively), and to judge by the results of their collaboration, they learned all the right moves. Roseval is the best value of its too-small category: a place where those who work outside the financial sector can experience inventive food and thrillingly obscure wines served by people who believe in what they do.”

The Independent (2012) “That we were in playful but skilled hands was made clear by the starter: a salted ricotta soup with mackerel and heirloom tomatoes, prettily sprinkled with chive flowers and lemon breadcrumbs, took the bright flavours of a salad into unexpected forms…. It was a great meal by any measure, but at a prix fixe of €35 (just shy of £28), it was jaw-dropping.”

Adrian Moore (2012) “The food is tonic and pretty, simple and complex from the starter of smoked burratta and smoked puréed eggplant with grilled onions, to the nearly perfect sushi quality bonita with blet and an amazing spider crab mayo to the strawberry “crumble” which was actually grated madeleines, accompanied by the laid ribaut ice cream. A tight little menu, funky well curated natural French and Italian wines, bread from Christophe Vasseur.. Run pretty little foodistas and bobos and soon, international gastro tourists, run to the best little new table in town.”

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “… there was an immediate warm and spontaneous welcome, and not a single note of pretension or attitude…thunder struck with a dish made from the restaurant’s namesake spud–a sublime puree of smoked potatoes with sauteed onions, baby clams and a garnish of buttered bread crumbs. This one was so good that conversation died completely…this is a delightful restaurant.”

Le Nouvel Observateur (2012) “Mine de rien, les deux larrons font un sans-faute et sortent – l’air de pas y toucher – des plats de virtuose d’une Arte Povera avançant tête haute. Des tomates Rasta rouges/vertes/jaunes, ricotta liquide et maquereau brûlé et plein de miettes craquantes de pain d’anchois frites. Des Ravioles de sardines au raifort ‘wasabesque’ dans un bouillon acidulé au vinaigre de vin rouge et poutargue à volonté. Ou, sous une sauce pilpil émulsionnée en mayo, une pomme de terre rôtie, à l’instar du cabillaud et de ses lamelles de moelle fondantes. Une tuerie, comme on dit.”

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10 thoughts on “Roseval”

  1. Because it is a quick way to get a “picture” into readers’ minds in a comments section like this one. And in a way it is funny if you actually encounter a cliché.
    …Hm, why do I even answer such silly questions…?

  2. That’s why I wrote “the *living cliché* of french arrogance towards foreigners”. And to suggest not to travel to a country just because some people there fulfill a certain cliché is just silly. I love France and Paris and have been and eaten there like a 100 times. Love the people, too. Just sometimes you encounter the negative clichés, as in every country (like: Berliners with a very unique kind of grumpiness and unfriendliness.) – why not mention it?
    (By the way: a kind of slight snobbery from waiters is not a cliché I “believe in”, but something that I have encounterd quite some times in high-end-restaurants in france (and italy) – and since I haven’t encountered it that often in any other country, I would certainly call it specific to these 2 countries.)

  3. As I keep pointing out as the oldest and crustiest guy on this site, I’ve been treated rudely three times in 60 years in Paris; once by a Polish vender, once by an Italian olive oil merchant and once by a New Yorker who took me for a West Side Snob (well, I made that up, but it’s true).
    I’ve not been to Roseval, it’s only open at night when my demons come out, but what Americans take as rude is most often Parisien rushedness, bistrot attitude and brasserie hustling; you want rude – try Katz’s, the Carnegie, try Lutece in 1960-something when André Soltner walked up to our table and said while we were passing around terrines – “Don’t Play With the Food.”

  4. And people screw up everywhere. And fail to apologize everywhere.
    If you believe in ‘French arrogance’ you shouldn’t even be visiting France in the first place. Why torture yourself?

  5. Kai, why cannot you just say arrogance instead of French arrogance, especially when nowadays, in most hip Paris restaurants, the staff is quite international ? Similarly most of the staff in London restaurants is not Brit.

  6. Placed a reservation 3 weeks ahead, confirmed it the day before (all in french, as they like it…). When we arrived, our reservation had been “canceled”. No excuse, no nothing, just the living cliché of french arrogance towards foreigners. Disgusting. Seems like the Hype has been getting to their heads. (Only bearded hipsters in the room, by the way). No matter how good the food might be – a place like that is a no-go area.

  7. Wonderfully creative food, excellent complimenting wines brought forth by a young, multi lingual staff in a joyous intimate atmosphere! An experience to be repeated.

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