Young chefs Michael Greenwold and Simone Tondo worked previously at Le Chateaubriand and Rino, and the influence of those kitchens can be felt at their joint venture in Ménilmontant. Modern French cooking, like this take on beef tartare with horseradish granita (photo above), can be found throughout the no-choice menu for 40€. Consider springing for the wine pairings (77€ total) – there’s a very interesting wine list with an emphasis on les naturels from sommelière Ericka Biswell. There’s an insider (but not exclusive) feeling here in the bare bones dining room that’s enlivened by a very fashionable young clientele in a corner of Paris ignored by most tourists. Special attributes: open on Monday, outdoor terrasse with a view on a tree-filled square.
Address: 1 rue d’Eupatoria, 75020
Nearest transport: Ménilmontant (2)
Hours: Monday-Friday, 7:30-10pm; closed Saturday and Sunday (see others also open Monday)
Reservations: Book a week in advance
Telephone: 09 53 56 24 14
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Reviews of interest
- Le Fooding (2012) “La Meilleure Table 2013″ – best table of the year.
- Not Drinking Poison in Paris (2012) “The creative team at Roseval – chefs Michael Greenwold and Simone Tondo and sommelier Erika Biswell – formerly worked at some of these places (Le Chateaubriand, Rino, and Le Chateaubriand, respectively), and to judge by the results of their collaboration, they learned all the right moves. Roseval is the best value of its too-small category: a place where those who work outside the financial sector can experience inventive food and thrillingly obscure wines served by people who believe in what they do.”
- The Independent (2012) “That we were in playful but skilled hands was made clear by the starter: a salted ricotta soup with mackerel and heirloom tomatoes, prettily sprinkled with chive flowers and lemon breadcrumbs, took the bright flavours of a salad into unexpected forms…. It was a great meal by any measure, but at a prix fixe of €35 (just shy of £28), it was jaw-dropping.”
- Adrian Moore (2012) “The food is tonic and pretty, simple and complex from the starter of smoked burratta and smoked puréed eggplant with grilled onions, to the nearly perfect sushi quality bonita with blet and an amazing spider crab mayo to the strawberry “crumble” which was actually grated madeleines, accompanied by the laid ribaut ice cream. A tight little menu, funky well curated natural French and Italian wines, bread from Christophe Vasseur.. Run pretty little foodistas and bobos and soon, international gastro tourists, run to the best little new table in town.”
- Alexander Lobrano (2012) “… there was an immediate warm and spontaneous welcome, and not a single note of pretension or attitude…thunder struck with a dish made from the restaurant’s namesake spud–a sublime puree of smoked potatoes with sauteed onions, baby clams and a garnish of buttered bread crumbs. This one was so good that conversation died completely…this is a delightful restaurant.”
- Le Nouvel Observateur (2012) “Mine de rien, les deux larrons font un sans-faute et sortent – l’air de pas y toucher – des plats de virtuose d’une Arte Povera avançant tête haute. Des tomates Rasta rouges/vertes/jaunes, ricotta liquide et maquereau brûlé et plein de miettes craquantes de pain d’anchois frites. Des Ravioles de sardines au raifort ‘wasabesque’ dans un bouillon acidulé au vinaigre de vin rouge et poutargue à volonté. Ou, sous une sauce pilpil émulsionnée en mayo, une pomme de terre rôtie, à l’instar du cabillaud et de ses lamelles de moelle fondantes. Une tuerie, comme on dit.”