Tag Archives: 35-49€

L’Entredgeu

This beloved Basque bistro is usually packed with locals.

Practical information

Address: 83 rue Laugier, 75017
Nearest transport: Porte de Champerret (3)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 40 54 97 24
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French, Basque

Reviews of interest

Figaroscope (2011) “De la piperade avec l’œuf mollet, des haricots blancs façon cassoulet avec l’épaule de veau, la tome de brebis qui va bien… L’assiette met bien évidemment le cap au Sud-Ouest…Le tout avec une sincérité désarmante…”

David Lebovitz (2007) “So in spite of the name, and location, L’Entredgeu seems to be thriving and is always packed. The dining room can be a bit cramped, which is part of the charm… a real bargain for food this good, and well-prepared…”

Le Crabe Marteau via crabemarteau.fr

Le Crabe Marteau

Pretend you’re in Brest as you hammer away at fresh crab, oysters, and other shellfish at this seafood shack in the 17th.

Practical information

Address: 16 rue des Acacias, 75017
Nearest transport: Argentine (1)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday-Saturday; closed Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 44 09 85 59
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French, Breton, Seafood
Website

Reviews of interest

Figaroscope (2011) “Le tourteau, d’un bon kilo, fraîchement livré tous les matins et cuit au court-bouillon. Il est servi entier, accompagné de petites rattes bio, de mayonnaise maison nature ou aux herbes, de pain au levain et de beurre salé. La meilleure partie ? Se défouler sur les pinces de la bête grâce au marteau de bois mis à disposition…”

Mets Gusto via www.metsgusto.com

Mets Gusto

A contemporary Mediterranean bistro in the 16th.

Practical information

Address: 79 rue de la Tour, 75016
Nearest transport: Rue de la Pompe (9)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Monday, and Saturday lunch
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 40 72 84 46
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Mediterranean
Website

Reviews of interest

Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “…on se rend compte que les tarifs ont fait un solide bond en avant, que le lieu manque d’âme, l’accueil de relief, le service de nerf…Le cadre sobre de bistrot minimaliste manque, à l’évidence, de vie…”

John Talbott (2010) “…scallops were actually very good product and nicely cooked but the veggies, whatever they were, were so-what.  I on the other hand found my sauteed mackerel only so-so…”

Le Fooding (2010) “Un bistrot chic où les prix sont à la hauteur de l’ambition de départ. Et même s’il manque un petit grain de folie dans la cuisine, la selle d’agneau justement cuite aux herbes du maquis et caviar d’aubergines (à éviter avant ou pendant un rendez-vous galant) se laisse déguster. Le jackpot ? Les desserts.”

Caroline Mignot (2009) “Après quelques biscuits au parmesan, sablé et moelleux à la fois, pas mal du tout… Voici donc le pavé de morue poêlé, dont les chairs nacrées simples et délicieuses glissent sous le couteau…”

Au Petit Marguery

A delightfully unmodernized table, especially good in game season, when you’ll find roast partridge, grouse, wild duck, and lièvre à la royale. Finish with the Grand Marnier soufflé.

Practical information

Address: 9 boulevard de Port Royal, 75013
Nearest transport: Gobelins (7)
Hours: Monday-Saturday, lunch and dinner; Sunday, dinner only.
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 43 31 58 59
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, bistro
Website

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2009) “…what most Americans (including ourselves) must consider ‘the’ quintessential French/Paris restaurant – red velvet banquettes, brass fixtures, waiters in black and white…They had three kinds of game today, including lievre royale and grouse…generous and most excellent…”

Le Figaro (2007) “Lièvre à la royale: plaisir vampire. Soufflé Grand Marnier: incontournable…”

Le Grand Pan by Barbra Austin

Le Grand Pan

Benoit Gauthier’s Le Grand Pan unfussily and deliciously serves up superb meats and market-fresh vegetables.

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 20 rue Rosenwald, 75015
Nearest transport: Convention (12)
Hours: Closed Saturday, Closed Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 42 50 02 50
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

François Simon (2014) “À force de tourner dans sa roue de hamster, la gastronomie parisienne, régulièrement, nous déniche des petites trouvailles. Des idées limpides sortant du puits en petite tenue. On se dit alors que faire un restaurant est aussi simple qu’un revers au tennis.”

Patricia Wells (2012) “This elbow-to-elbow meat lover’s paradise tucked away in the southern edge of the 15th arrondissement, is a classic of it genre, a bistro where friends gather with two thoughts in mind: Copious food and lots of laughter for the sounds of good times.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “…pedigreed meats—pork from Eric Ospital, veal and beef from Mauléon—all meant for two mouths, all served with thick, golden fries and, if you’d like, a salad of delicate greens from vegetable goddess Annie Bertin…”

John Talbott (2007) “It’s small (40 covers max, including the bar), very welcoming…and all French.”

François Simon (2007) “Il s’agit là d’une cuisine de cuisinier, simple et directe, débarrassée de tout. Il ne reste que l’essentiel.”

La Gazzetta by Meg Zimbeck

La Gazzetta

Petter Nilsson’s inspired, eclectic cooking drew rave reviews. Then he left, came back, and now he’s flown the coop again for Sweden. We’ll see?

Practical information

Address: 29 rue de Cotte, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 47 47 05
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

Jerôme Berger for A Nous Paris (2014) “Un joli coup de Botte! Attention, pas le sempiternel trio mozza-pizza-tira’, non! Mais une façon de cuisine ritale : inspirée par la mamma, dressée pour la fashionista.”

François-Régis Gaudry (2014) “Même sans Petter Nilsson, la Gazzetta, ça gaze…L’autre jour, au déjeuner, dans une stupéfiante formule entrées et plat à 19 €, le garçon a montré qu’il avait plus d’un tour dans sa botte.”

Meg Zimbeck (2010) “Petter Nilsson’s cooking—often inspired and always eclectic—has helped establish La Gazzetta as a destination for food adventure…”

John Talbott (2010) “…free-range chicken with a sour orange and rosemary sauce…black cod with razor clams, quite nice and healthy.  Both were on the same bed of cabbage and parmesan, parsley and nuts – lazy, is Petter getting – or for 16 E are the first 4 a bargain? Yes!”

L’Ecailler du Bistrot

The “bistrot” in question is carnivore-heaven Paul Bert, just next door. But at L’Ecailler the focus is on seafood, including a gorgeous array of Belon, Utah Beach, and Spéciales. Included in our editors’ list of Five Great places for oysters.

Practical information

Address: 22 rue Paul Bert, 75011
Nearest transport: Faidherbe-Chaligny (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 72 76 77
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2014) “Their Utah Beach oysters are exceptional but their fish dishes are not always on target… at 19€ [for lunch] it’s quite a bargain.”

Aaron Ayscough (2012) “…despite the eyebrow-raising prices I still had – and continue to have – a great deal of confidence in owner Bertrand Aboyneau’s supremely savvy restateurism. It was a lovely meal…”

François Simon (2010) “…calme, apaisé avec son ardoise de poissons du jour.”

Thierry Richard (2009) ” Des Spéciales du Belon n°3 (quasiment introuvables à Paris, avec un parfum de noisette ultra-percutant), des Utah Beach n°3 (iodées, charnues et tendres comme je les adore)…”

François Simon (2008) “Dans le genre, difficile de trouver mieux…”

John Talbott (2008) “Go? Yes for the oysters and white wine.”

Le Sot-l’y-Laisse

This longstanding neighborhood bistro has a new lease on life thanks to Eiji Doihara, a Japanese chef with a classical French resumé.

Practical information

Address: 70 rue Alexandre Dumas, 75011
Nearest transport: Alexandre Dumas (2)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Saturday; lunch, Tuesday-Friday; closed Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 40 09 79 20
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French

Reviews of interest

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2012) “Des entrées entre 10 et 19 € et des plats entre 23 et 29 €, le chef se situe clairement au-dessus de la moyenne des additions bistronomiques. Les prix sont-il justifiés ? A voir…”

John Talbott (2011) “…worth every rapidly disappearing Euro.”

Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “…le menu du déjeuner mérite l’éloge, le détour, pour sa générosité, son prix, ses produits frais, ses plats nets, leur précision, leur vigueur, leur légèreté grande.”

Bruno Verjus (2011) “…une cuisine populaire, française, classique, débarrassée de l’inutile – épurée à l’esprit japonais. Un must eat absolu!”

Sassotondo

A Tuscan address from Frederic Hubig of Astier and Jeanne A.

Practical information

Address: 40 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011
Nearest transport: Parmentier (3)
Hours: Dinner only, Wednesday-Monday; closed Tuesday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 43 55 57 00
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Italian

Reviews of interest

Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “De jolis produits, cuisine juste, sait faire simple, composant des menus alertes, au gré de son inspiration et du marché…Le choix de vins est splendide.”

Caroline Mignot (2011) “Jolie table qui sent la Toscane, les plats bien pensés et un brin sophistiqués par rapport à l’Italie qu’on a l’habitude de goûter à Paris. C’est goûteux, joli, hyper pro…”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “…a terrific looking little restaurant…Exigent Italian food lovers at the table all, we agreed that this is a very good little restaurant and an especially good new option for Sunday night dinners.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2011)”…cet ultime italien de la saison révèle une belle plante de trattoria toute en climat, soignant le naturel mais savamment campée sur des produits de haute extraction…”

Profiteroles at Chardenoux by Barbra Austin

Le Chardenoux

Celebrity chef Cyril Lignac took over this historic bistro in 2008.

Practical information

Address: 1 rue Jules Vallès, 75011
Nearest transport: Charonne (9)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 43 71 49 52
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, French bistro
Website

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2014) “One of the very rare restaurants with which I’ve had a long and consistently happy relationship during the more than twenty-five years I’ve lived in Paris… still so good.”

François Simon (2011) “…gentil dans ses efforts, louable dans l’assiette, mignon mais sans percussion…”

Figaroscope (2011) “Dans un décor classé, d’étain, bois et moulures, il revisite à sa façon quelques classiques (hachis parmentier, ris de veau, crêpe Suzette) en proposant aussi des compositions contemporaines…Efficace.”

John Talbott (2008) “The place is its old charming self…I then had the cassolet and this is where Cyril’s inventiveness, creativity and pushing-the-envelope puzzled me… This is not my, Escoffier’s, Mark Bittman’s, the Auberge Pyrenees-Cevennes’, etc., cassoulet, but the beans were super and the sauce got my attention.”

Alexander Lobrano (2008) “…about as classic a bistro menu as I’ve seen in a very longtime. Things got off to a good start…terrine de campagne was excellent and pleasantly garnished with a small salad of Bibb lettuce and marinated mushrooms in an excellent Xeres vinegar dressing…Our mains were excellent, too…if the kitchen turns-out cookbook perfect food, it’s oddly lacking in the lusty passion of truly great bistro cooking.”

Caroline Mignot (2008) “…une perle de bistro bourgeois parisien…La carte de ce ‘restaurant de tradition’, elle évoque les cocottes, les plats bien mitonnés, les côtes pour deux, bref, que du bon, mais à un certain prix.”

L'Auberge Flora by Meg Zimbeck

L’Auberge Flora

Flora herself does the cooking at this urban inn, offering a range of shareable small plates, or a heftier menu (at higher prices).

Practical information

Address: 44 boulevard Richard Lenoir, 75011
Nearest transport: Breguet Sabin (5)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, every day
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 47 00 52 77
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French bistro
Website

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2014) “Wonderful staff; limited menu.”

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “I know that this is a restaurant I’ll very happily be visiting again. Yes, the kitchen isn’t up to speed yet, but the menu’s fascinating, they work with great produce, the service is charming, and the prices are reasonable.”

John Talbott (2012) “The menu is supposed to be tapas-like but as far as I’m concerned the plates are quite ample… I had a spectacular/heavenly/wonderful pork rib…Go?  You bet.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012) “…un bon cœur de cuisine, où fibre ménagère et solide fond de terroir trouvent à s’exprimer en manière citadine.”

Caroline Mignot (2012) “Dans le désordre, la planche de charcuteries dont une caillette très convaincante (mélange de chair à saucisse, d’herbes, d’oignons, le tout dentelé de crépine), une rillette de lapin terrible (câpres, citron confit, huile d’olive, j’en aurais dégusté toute la soirée), un saucisson aux olives, des câpres, des olives qui seront finalement le joli fil conducteur de ce moment.”

bistrot paul bert tarte tatin

Bistrot Paul Bert

The menu at this perennial favorite is seasonally-minded, and a carnivore’s paradise. Not for the faint of heart, or appetite.

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 18 rue Paul Bert, 75011
Nearest transport: Faidherbe-Chaligny (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 72 24 01
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2011) “…rapport simple au produit et ce culte de la gourmandise. Même soin apporté à la terrine de campagne maison qu’aux envolées plus fines (pigeon rôti et petits légumes ; lotte au gingembre…) et aux incontournables, dont le mythique paris-brest.”

Bruno Verjus (2011) “Ici l’on tâte et gâte le gourmand. Alors dérive et file le temps au gré de nourritures terrestres. Les desserts, par leurs énormes tailles créent un rapport d’enfance – tendre prodigalité. Du bon, du très bon, du généreux, un véritable bis trop.”

Patricia Wells (2010) “Last night at one of my favorite little places –Le  Bistrot Paul Bert in the 11th — I adored the addition of thinly sliced raw green asparagus. I’ve always preferred to braise my asparagus, but the earthy flavors of these raw veggies changed my mind!… Worth the journey, for sure.”

David Lebovitz (2010) “…it’s hard to go wrong with anything here. You can order from the fixed price menu or split a Côte de Boeuf (steak for two, which they will not cook further than medium-rare), which includes house made frites.”

Meg Zimbeck via Girls’ Guide to Paris (2010) “For those who are sincere in their desire to taste classic bistro fare, there are few places better than Le Bistrot Paul Bert.”

Alexander Lobrano via David Lebovitz (2009) “This crowded and very popular place is one of my favorite bistros in Paris…”

Barbra Austin (2009) “This one is on many people’s list of favorites, including mine…”

François Simon “Un de mes adresses préférées. Gourmand, puissant avec une carte des vins à perdre la nacre de vos yeux…”

Dorie Greenspan (2008) “…one of my hands-down favorite bistros…”

La Rotonde

La Rotonde

A classic Montparnasse café and brasserie, serving standards like onion soup and steak tartare all day, along with oysters and other seafood in season.

Practical information

Address: 105 boulevard du Montparnasse, 75006
Nearest transport: Vavin (4)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 01 43 26 48 26
Website
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: standout seafood, outdoor dining, continuous all-day service, open Sunday, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “La Rotonde, a 1911 vintage brasserie in Montparnasse, accommodates both the real and imagined realities of the city, all without sacrificing good food…the politely wisecracking service is brisk in the brasserie tradition. More important, the traditional comfort cooking is not only well executed but often made with pedigreed ingredients.”

François Simon (2012) “Assurément, la Rotonde Montparnasse appartient à ces restaurants qui ne défraient pas la chronique… En fait, la Rotonde c’est le genre de restaurant dont on doit rêver lorsqu’on s’est longuement absenté de France. Tous les plats du répertoire sont là, fidèles,au garde à vous, pas bégueule, bon enfant et de bonne facture.”

 

 

 

Chez Grenouille by Meg Zimbeck

Chez Grenouille

An address for old school charcuterie and meat of all kinds.

Practical information

Address: 52 rue Blanche, 75009
Nearest transport: Trinité (12) or Liege (13)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday-Friday; dinner only on Saturday; closed Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 42 81 34 07
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: market-based cooking, good for game , nose to tail eating, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2010) ” Though the quality of the meal was much better-than-average overall…this is a very sad spot in which to have a meal.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “…house-made terrines and high cholesterol…”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “ouvert par…Alexis Blanchard, qui a pris avec lui tous ses prix, de meilleur boudin, pied de porc à la cassine, tête pressée, terrine, ouvre ses entrailles pour vous donner le meilleur de ce qui serait presque considéré comme impolitiquement correct aujourd’hui…

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2010) “… Les végétariens détalent, les autres se régalent.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “Les quatre syllabes de « charcuterie » auraient suffi…les ris, les tripes, la tourte, les terrines, la gueule de veau gribiche, la queue de bœuf…”

John Talbott (2010) “… a great idea in pretty much of a culinary desert.”

 

 

Le Marché du Lucas

A relaxed but still elegant alternative to Alain Senderens’ flagship table. Counter seating makes this one to consider for solo dining. Formerly known as “Bar Le Passage.”

Practical information

Address: 9 place de la Madeleine, 75008
Nearest transport: Madeleine (8, 12, 14)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 65 22 90
Website
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: renowned chef, open Sunday, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Caroline Mignot (2011) “Alain Senderens a trouvé un compromis vraiment intéressant entre le bar de passage où l’on s’installe un peu au dernier moment pour profiter d’une formule qui change d’une minute à l’autre…un quartier chic et des prix franchement raisonnables.”

John Talbott (2008) “…Then came something that…sounded like evitée de tomates but seemed like blah sliced turkey or rabbit…Then came Senderens back blazing full bore – with a poule faisan rollatine stuffed with foie gras on a bed of perfectly cooked mixed wild mushrooms…and a peppery brown wine sauce – heaven! The dessert also was not half-bad…”

Caroline Mignot (2008) “Le service ne fait pas particulièrement dans le détail, ça pulse, ça va vite, la carte surgit…”

 

 

 

Chez Marcel by John Talbott

Chez Marcel

A new owner has resuscitated this old time bistro, serving updated Lyonnais classics.

Practical information

Address: 7 rue Stanislas, 75006
Nearest transport: Notre Dame des Champs (12) or Vavin (4)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday-Friday; closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 45 48 29 94
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, Lyonnais, French bistro
Special attributes: open Monday

Reviews of interest

Thierry Richard (2013) “Voilà le genre de table qui fait aimer Paris des américains. Un restaurant dans son jus dont le calendrier des appétits est resté bloqué quelque part dans les années 60…En cuisine, Pierre laisse aux commandes le chef qui remuait les casseroles dans l’arrière-salle depuis vingt-cinq ans et perpétue, à quelques plats près, le menu labellisé 1961, tapé à la machine, qu’il retrouve dans les archives du restaurant. Ce sera donc ambiance filets de hareng, escargots de Bourgogne, quenelles de brochet, tripes et coq au vin. Une cuisine de répertoire bistrotier, loin du manger-correct de l’époque et délicieusement forte en gueule.”

François-Régis Gaudry (2012) “tabliers de sapeur d’une impeccable blondeur croustillante, quenelles parfaitement dodues et gratinées, saucissons chauds, terrines de campagne… Quitte à lui glisser à l’oreille sa propre recette de tarte à la praline (divine) et à l’entraîner vers la trahison d’une salade de vrais champignons de Paris avec des dés d’un vrai jambon de Paris, assaisonnée de crème et de ciboulette….”

John Talbott (2012) “We both go for classics…Lyon sausage with potatoes – sausage she deems “dry”, I think “flavorless”, potatoes bathed in water, even with mustard, barely finish 1/2; she, eggs mayo, banal, unimaginative, puhlease!”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012) “Le plus charmeur des come-back du printemps!”

Les Saisons by John Talbott

Les Saisons

Former Glou chef Jonathan Lutz is cooking at this neighborhood bistro.

Practical information

Address: 52 rue Lamartine, 75009
Nearest transport: Notre Dame de Lorette (12) or Cadet (7)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 48 78 15 18
Website
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French bistro

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “… warm and friendly atmosphere, and that the staff…fall all over themselves in a desire to please,the menu was very appealing–I almost ordered the sauteed duck foie gras with Jerusalem artichoke hearts, was tempted by the oysters, and toyed with the artichokes barigoule…”

Charles Patin O’Coohoon – L’Express (2012) “Ici, la prose est d’un classicisme soigné. A l’ardoise, le poireau vinaigrette, le pot-au-feu et les oeufs en neige forment un trio très bistrot, sans fausse note.”

John Talbott (2012) “…a place that I was astonished by…artichoke barigoule was pretty damn good…I had a fine piece of turbot with asparagus and mashed potatoes (not pictured), while Elan had an onglet of veal with asparagus and pleurotes which inched towards the perfect piece of beef country.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012) “Soupe crémeuse de panais et marron: de bon aloi. Cabillaud, légumes insolites au bouillon dashi: tout en clarté au risque d’un brin de fadeur. Fromages (sérieux pont-l’évêque, saint-nectaire et roquefort) plutôt que dessert…”

Philippe Toinard (2012) “…une cocotte de palourdes, moules et coques au thym, de l’autre la cuisson d’un cabillaud nacré, quelques légumes et un bouillon dashi. Des plats tirés d’une carte courte que l’on escorte de vins issus de l’agriculture biologique…”

 

 

Alain Milliat by John Talbott

Alain Milliat

Alain Milliat’s exquisite fruit juices, nectars, and conserves line the walls of this boutique-cum-restaurant, serving a no-choice menu at lunch and dinner, operating as a tea salon in the afternoons, and open for shopping all day.

Practical information

Address: 159 rue de Grenelle, 75007
Nearest transport: La Tour Maubourg (8)
Hours: Open 10am-10pm Tuesday-Saturday, and for lunch on Sunday; Closed Monday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 45 55 63 86
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French bistro, modern French
Special attributes: continuous all-day service

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2012) “Simply first-rate.”

Philippe Toinard (2012) “… Il vous faudra apprécier chaque bouchée de la remarquable entrée, le thon mi-cuit, fenouil confit et gelée de mandarine au romarin et la non moins délicieuse gelée de pomme Granny, glace livèche (plante aromatique) et noix râpée proposée en dessert.”

Anne-Laure Miam – L’Express (2011) “Un TRES bon plan dans le quartier…Au final, un menu ni chiche, ni bourratif.”

 

 

Le Cinq Mars via cinq-mars-restaurant.com

Le Cinq Mars

This perennially popular bistro serves classics like foie gras mi-cuit, steak tartare, and brandade de morue.

Practical information

Address: 51 rue de Verneuil, 75007
Nearest transport: Solferino (12)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday-Saturday; closed Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 45 44 69 13
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, bistro
Special attributes: open Monday

Les Coulisses via Les Coulisses' Facebook page

Les Coulisses

A neighborhood bistro in the heart of the 9th, open every day.

Practical information

Address: 19 rue Notre Dame de Lorette, 75009
Nearest transport: Saint George (12)
Hours: Dinner, every day; Lunch, every day but Saturday
Reservations: last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 45 26 46 46
Website
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French bistro
Special attributes: open Sunday, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “…a brilliant two-speed menu that lets you go red-blooded bistro or opt for something more adventurous… Les Coulisses is terrific, and I am planning to become a regular here.”

John Talbott (2011) “…very satisfying…at this quality and those prices, all were wowed over…”

 

 

Youpi et Voilà by Phyllis Flick

Youpi et Voilà

Fresh, pristine cooking from auto-didact Patrice Gelbart.

Practical information

Address: 8 rue Vicq d’Azir, 75010
Nearest transport: Colonel Fabien (2)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 83 89 12 63
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Trusted reviews

Fulgurances (2014)”Patrice Gelbart cuisine, tout en pudeur et affirmation, ses produits c’est son courage, sa passion du métier sa rage, son sens de l’échange son point d’ancrage.”

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “I’ve since spent a week puzzling over this meal, and have concluded the crew here would be much happier if they were cooking and serving their friends instead of running a general-public restaurant, and also that the metier of waiter or waitress that France so brilliantly perfected over the course of many centuries is in danger.”

John Talbott (2012) “…The poor pigeon I had was tough, tasteless and overcooked… against the opinions of all the other rapporteurs and my co-diners today, I cannot in good conscience (and mine is in bad shape) recommend it.”

Bruno Verjus (2012) “Dans les assiettes, les produits et associations sonnent juste, écho aux idées du chef. Assaisonnement vifs et précis, jeux de textures, les mets vibrent, illuminent. Les vins vivant sont à prix très raisonnables. Youpi, voilà un véritable restaurant.”

Phyllis Flick (2012) “Gelbart, a self-taught chef, is passionate about working with small local producers and the best seasonal products…His cooking is subtle and creative, using generous amounts of fresh herbs and plants with a mix of textures and flavors…I left feeling charmed by the atmosphere, the warm service, and obvious passion of the chef.”

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2012) “…des prix calmes et un service à la cool…Et dans l’assiette, des plats bons mais flegmatiques, insouciants, pas encore très concernés…Il va falloir attendre un peu que la bête se réveille…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2012) “…dans une petite salle coincée entre un mur fatalement de brique et l’autre forcément de pierre grattée, la belle santé d’une cuisine de feeling et de produit franc. Si le cool avait un goût, ce serait celui-là.”

 

 

L'Epi Dupin via www.epidupin.com

L’Epi Dupin

L’Epi Dupin has been attracting a mix of loyal locals and tourists since it opened in 1995.

Practical information

Address: 11 rue Dupin, 75006
Nearest transport: Sevres-Babylone (10, 12)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Friday; lunch, Tuesday-Friday; closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually O.K.
Telephone: 01 42 22 64 56
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: market-based cooking, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Caroline Mignot (2009) “L’ardoise arrive, pas une suggestion qui ne fasse pas envie…Crevettes à peine saisies, au coeur encore fondant et “rosé”, enrobées de quelques grains de sésame…Velouté de Saint-Jacques incroyablement lisse…Le dessert parle de lui-même…”

 

 

Racines 2

Now open: Racines, version 2.0, featuring the same product-driven cooking as the original, in a Philippe Starck-designed space.

Practical information

Address: 39 rue de l’Arbre Sec, 75001
Nearest transport: Louvre-Rivoli (1) or Les Halles (4)
Hours: Open for lunch & dinner Monday-Friday plus Saturday dinner; closed Saturday lunch & all day Sunday
Reservations: book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 42 60 77 34
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: classic French
Special attributes: prestige ingredients, open Monday

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2012) “The ‘menu’ is a very reasonable 29 E for 3 courses, but a la carte we’re dealing with double that, and that’s before liquids.  But I rather liked the ‘menu’…a perfectly cooked duck breast with a ton of vegetables…a chocolate mousse…All were much above average…”

Thierry Richard (2012) “La cuisine y est dans le droit fil de ce qui avait fait le succès de son jumeau : des produits de belle extraction, à peine transformés, soigneusement assaisonnés et aux cuissons toujours millimétrées. Mais il y a là un je ne sais quoi en plus qui fait claquer les doigts…”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “this restaurant feels very out of place in the rue de l’Arbre Sec…more alarming than the decor or the crowd, however, was the menu. For starters, it was short and difficult, because not only was it rather unappealing, it was also very expensive…if I want to spend 70 Euros on a meal, I can think of a lot of much better places to do so than Racines 2.”

François Simon – Le Figaro (2011) “Voilà des plats travaillant a minima, juste dans le souffle et l’élan…Attention, Racines 2 ne fait pas de la grande cuisine, juste une cuisine de produit, laissant passer celui-ci comme la muleta du torero. Certains risquent d’être déçus et je les entends d’ici : “Ah, ce n’est que ça ?!” Réponse: ce n’est que cela.”

Le Figaro (2011) “…cuisine toujours ciselée, nourrie aux beaux produits…généreuses terrines, salade, comme un tableau, de racines croquantes et arc-en-ciel de l’incontournable Annie Bertin, tendre côte de cochon, fondante tarte au citron…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2011)”…un bon spécimen de bistrot urbain nouveau…repas bien découplé entre petits plats de spontanéité et vins nature…Vitello tonnato : tranché un peu trop charnu mais plaisant. Poitrine de cochon, cocos de Paimpol et jus de cresson : beau gras bien relancé par des cocos bien en verve…”

 

 

Monsieur le Prince by Barbra Austin

Monsieur le Prince

NOW CLOSED. A bistro with contemporary touches, in the old Chez Maitre Paul space.

Practical information

Address: 12 rue Monsieur le Prince, 75006

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2010) “They have a plat du jour for 14 E…Ordering off the carte though, is a whole other matter – I did the latter and was socked 38 E, now granted for much better (IMHO) and more inventive stuff…bonbons of oysters with sorrel sauce…a chunk of beef cheek that was so-so but had a great intense black sauce and wonderful teeny/tiny carrots, small potatoes and green sprigs…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “…une jeunesse franchement habile à éclaircir l’affaire sans totalement se départir des conforts patrimoniaux.”

Barbra Austin – Girls’ Guide to Paris (2010) “The menu is mostly classic bistro fare, updated with a few twists…cod with Camembert sauce is unexpected, and steamed daurade gets a dose of flavor from clams and briny seaweed. For nostalgic locals there is an homage to the old tenants, a cassolette of chicken with morels and vin jaune façon Chez Maître Paul.”

 

 

 

Le Chardenoux des Pres by Barbra Austin

Le Chardenoux des Près

A second outpost of Cyril Lignac’s Chardenoux. Prices are trés Saint-Germain.

Practical information

Address: 27 rue du Dragon, 75006
Nearest transport: Saint Sulpice (4)
Hours: Open every day, lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 45 48 29 68
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, French bistro
Website

Reviews of interest

Philippe Toinard (2014) “S’il n’est pas présent quotidiennement au Chardenoux des Prés dans le quartier de Saint-Germain-des-Prés, sa vision d’une cuisine sincère est relayée par son chef Ludovic Gernidos…Rendre la cuisine accessible, Cyril Lignac l’a compris en proposant un menu au déjeuner à moins de 30 euros composé à partir de produits simples mais préparés avec juste ce qu’il faut d’ingéniosité pour les rendre attrayants…”

Patricia Wells (2011) “…probably the most insipid restaurant meal I have eaten in Paris in 32 years…Every dish was a disaster, void of taste, texture, personality.”

Caroline Mignot (2011) “En salle, service attentionné, un peu blagueur, bistrotier parigot dans le bon sens…petites moules plongées dans une crème curry bien mousseuse, épinards hachés fins, c’est simple et bon…la carte très bistrotière (tartare, entrecôte), avec quelques plats inspirés d’ailleurs (chipirons/piperade, moussaka)…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2011) “Décor fameux dans l’à-propos rétro, cuisine du même tonneau. Trois cœurs à la santé de la rive gauche…Service? Sincèrement, l’un des meilleurs du moment, souriant, le bon mot plein la bouche, ménageant distance et disponibilité…”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “…decent but timidly seasoned and over-priced bistro food…the kitchen is able enough, and the food’s pretty good, but when did 50 Euros become an acceptable tab for a casual bistro meal?”

Jérôme Berger – A Nous Paris (2011) “Un copier-coller de la carte du XIe…un sauté de veau aux olives vertes, manquant un peu de fondant, pas de peps; et une crème glacée à la pistache – diabolique – sur une salade de cerises, encore trop vertes.”

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2011) “Papier peint fleuri d’origine, plafond effet nicotiné, appliques années 50, baguettes lecture pour les journaux, grand comptoir en marbre…Dans l’assiette, du bistrot tiré à quatre épingles, avec même quelques velléités gastronomiques…”

 

 

 

Brasserie de l’Isle Saint Louis

This classic brasserie has been in business since 1953, and is still run the same family.

Practical information

Address: 55 quai de Bourbon, 75004
Nearest transport: Pont Marie (7)
Hours: Closed Wednesday; open all other days, noon-11pm
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 43 54 02 59
Website
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French – Brasserie
Special attributes: open Sunday, open Monday, continuous all-day service

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “this was the best choucroute I’d had a in a longtime, and the quality of the cooking was such that I’m planning to go back soon…”

John Talbott (2012) “The menu is classic…it’s fun, as good as 1953 gets and reasonable enough.”

 

 

 

Le Gaigne by John Talbott

Le Gaigne

Now closed (in July 2013). At this small, contemporary bistro near the Centre Pompidou, Chef Mickael Gaigner shows off his skills — honed in high end kitchens — at reasonable prices: Weekday lunches are priced at 17/23€ for two or three courses, and there’s a five-course dinner menu at 42€.

Practical information

Address: 12 rue Pecquay, 75004
Nearest transport: Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Now closed
Reservations: Now closed
Telephone: Now closed
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a3512d82ab29283d1&ll=48.860293,2.356275&spn=0.006931,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.

Reviews of interest

Le Gaigne closed in July 2013

  • John Talbott (2012) “…a place we go back to time after time…”
  • John Talbott (2011) “…the food so good and the prices so right, what’s not to love…parsnip soup with an intruiging croquette containing an egg in the middle, with “oreille et pied de cochon à la sauge”… a “gougère aux escargots du pré de Mme Liège à la sauce soubise,” sounding much fancier but tasting pretty gutsy.”
  • John Talbott (2010) “There has been some negative chatter in the blogosphere about Le Gaigne which I have not and do not understand…”
  • Mark Bittman – NY Times (2009) “…charming, the kind of place I’d love to see more of….They seem to deal with everything effortlessly: the food is on time, it’s hot, it’s good and it’s interesting; the wine list is solid…”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2008) “Gaignon…has a brilliant way with fish. I had brill poached with thyme and served with new-season choucroute (sauerkraut) and a sautee of girolles…a perfectly balanced composition in terms of taste… royale of duck as a starter was sublime, and a friend who tried the rabbit stuffed with marinated peppers and garnished with tiny florets of romanesco (green cauliflower) was very happy, too.”
  • François Simon (date unknown) “…une cuisine pleine de sens…La tarte de langoustines et champignons d’automne est une sorte de petit hold-up, mains au-dessus de la tête, pas un mot, portable fermé, personne ne bouge. La tarte est présente sans trop plomber de son feuilletage. C’est excellent.”

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Les Bistronomes by Barbra Austin

Les Bistronomes

The menu here appears classic enough (barring a salmon tataki), but the presentations are full of surprises.

Practical information

Address: 34 rue de Richelieu, 75001
Nearest transport: Pyramides (7, 14)
Hours: Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually O.K.
Telephone: 01 42 60 59 66
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French bistro
Special attributes: open Monday

Trusted reviews

Caroline Mignot (2011) “Nouveau bistrot qui cherche un brin de sophistication…Asperges…avec leur vinaigrette à la truffe qui me donne surtout en bouche un goût de foie gras. Mâche assaisonnée à la même vinaigrette, c’est vif et gourmand, ça se laisse bien déguster…Le café crème à 5 €, on n’apprécie pas et le soir à la carte, ça douille un peu…”

Barbra Austin (2011) “…professionalism is palpable in the welcome, the simple elegance of the room, and on the plate…pâté en croute, and lentils with Morteau sausage, both presented with an elegance that flouted the robustness of these hearty classics.”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “…a superb and stunningly professional new bistro…pâté en croûte with pickled baby vegetables was a deeply flavored slab of ground pork with a knob of foie gras and a chunk of rare duck breast in a beautifully made pastry crust…lentil salad was garnished with smoky slices of Morteau sausage and a nosegay of mesclun almost invisibly enlivened by a mustard-and-red-wine vinaigrette.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2011)  “Pâté en croûte et ses légumes pickles: bon ton. Filet de pigeon rôti en croûte, chou braisé au jus gras: beau travail mais le chou quasi invisible. Mille et une feuilles de banane, flambé au rhum vieux: pas désagréable mais sans liant.” Rating: 2/4 hearts.

John Talbott (2011) “…the scallop soup…did not contain pieces of scallops but rather was a beautifully cuisinarted/mixed/pulverized cream of scallop essence…I had the pied de cochon parmentier…here the pigs’ feet were in a sort of rectangular…the potatoes were not mashed but reduced to almost a cream, most different and delightful.”

Philippe Toinard – A Nous Paris (2011) “Le pied de cochon est effectivement désossé puis recomposé avant d’être entouré d’une crépinette pour être présenté façon andouillette…. remarquable.” Rating: 4/5 dots.

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2011) “…de tout ce qu’on a goûté, il n’y avait rien, absolument rien à jeter. Ni le velouté de butternut superbe, mousseux, légèrement musqué, caressé par une écume de lard fermier et un trait d’huile de pépin de courge ni le poulet des Dombes, son moelleux grandiose qui n’a rien à envier aux volailles de Bresse, sa sauce crémée à l’estragon…”