Tag Archives: 35-49€

Chez Marcel by John Talbott

Chez Marcel

A new owner has resuscitated this old time bistro, serving updated Lyonnais classics.

Practical information

Address: 7 rue Stanislas, 75006
Nearest transport: Notre Dame des Champs (12) or Vavin (4)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday-Friday; closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 45 48 29 94
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, Lyonnais, French bistro
Special attributes: open Monday

Reviews of interest

Thierry Richard (2013) “Voilà le genre de table qui fait aimer Paris des américains. Un restaurant dans son jus dont le calendrier des appétits est resté bloqué quelque part dans les années 60…En cuisine, Pierre laisse aux commandes le chef qui remuait les casseroles dans l’arrière-salle depuis vingt-cinq ans et perpétue, à quelques plats près, le menu labellisé 1961, tapé à la machine, qu’il retrouve dans les archives du restaurant. Ce sera donc ambiance filets de hareng, escargots de Bourgogne, quenelles de brochet, tripes et coq au vin. Une cuisine de répertoire bistrotier, loin du manger-correct de l’époque et délicieusement forte en gueule.”

François-Régis Gaudry (2012) “tabliers de sapeur d’une impeccable blondeur croustillante, quenelles parfaitement dodues et gratinées, saucissons chauds, terrines de campagne… Quitte à lui glisser à l’oreille sa propre recette de tarte à la praline (divine) et à l’entraîner vers la trahison d’une salade de vrais champignons de Paris avec des dés d’un vrai jambon de Paris, assaisonnée de crème et de ciboulette….”

John Talbott (2012) “We both go for classics…Lyon sausage with potatoes – sausage she deems “dry”, I think “flavorless”, potatoes bathed in water, even with mustard, barely finish 1/2; she, eggs mayo, banal, unimaginative, puhlease!”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012) “Le plus charmeur des come-back du printemps!”

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Les Saisons by John Talbott

Les Saisons

Former Glou chef Jonathan Lutz is cooking at this neighborhood bistro.

Practical information

Address: 52 rue Lamartine, 75009
Nearest transport: Notre Dame de Lorette (12) or Cadet (7)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 48 78 15 18
Website
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French bistro

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “… warm and friendly atmosphere, and that the staff…fall all over themselves in a desire to please,the menu was very appealing–I almost ordered the sauteed duck foie gras with Jerusalem artichoke hearts, was tempted by the oysters, and toyed with the artichokes barigoule…”

Charles Patin O’Coohoon – L’Express (2012) “Ici, la prose est d’un classicisme soigné. A l’ardoise, le poireau vinaigrette, le pot-au-feu et les oeufs en neige forment un trio très bistrot, sans fausse note.”

John Talbott (2012) “…a place that I was astonished by…artichoke barigoule was pretty damn good…I had a fine piece of turbot with asparagus and mashed potatoes (not pictured), while Elan had an onglet of veal with asparagus and pleurotes which inched towards the perfect piece of beef country.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012) “Soupe crémeuse de panais et marron: de bon aloi. Cabillaud, légumes insolites au bouillon dashi: tout en clarté au risque d’un brin de fadeur. Fromages (sérieux pont-l’évêque, saint-nectaire et roquefort) plutôt que dessert…”

Philippe Toinard (2012) “…une cocotte de palourdes, moules et coques au thym, de l’autre la cuisson d’un cabillaud nacré, quelques légumes et un bouillon dashi. Des plats tirés d’une carte courte que l’on escorte de vins issus de l’agriculture biologique…”

 

 

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Alain Milliat by John Talbott

Alain Milliat

Alain Milliat’s exquisite fruit juices, nectars, and conserves line the walls of this boutique-cum-restaurant, serving a no-choice menu at lunch and dinner, operating as a tea salon in the afternoons, and open for shopping all day.

Practical information

Address: 159 rue de Grenelle, 75007
Nearest transport: La Tour Maubourg (8)
Hours: Open 10am-10pm Tuesday-Saturday, and for lunch on Sunday; Closed Monday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 45 55 63 86
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French bistro, modern French
Special attributes: continuous all-day service

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2012) “Simply first-rate.”

Philippe Toinard (2012) “… Il vous faudra apprécier chaque bouchée de la remarquable entrée, le thon mi-cuit, fenouil confit et gelée de mandarine au romarin et la non moins délicieuse gelée de pomme Granny, glace livèche (plante aromatique) et noix râpée proposée en dessert.”

Anne-Laure Miam – L’Express (2011) “Un TRES bon plan dans le quartier…Au final, un menu ni chiche, ni bourratif.”

 

 

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Le Cinq Mars via cinq-mars-restaurant.com

Le Cinq Mars

This perennially popular bistro serves classics like foie gras mi-cuit, steak tartare, and brandade de morue.

Practical information

Address: 51 rue de Verneuil, 75007
Nearest transport: Solferino (12)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday-Saturday; closed Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 45 44 69 13
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, bistro
Special attributes: open Monday

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Les Coulisses via Les Coulisses' Facebook page

Les Coulisses

A neighborhood bistro in the heart of the 9th, open every day.

Practical information

Address: 19 rue Notre Dame de Lorette, 75009
Nearest transport: Saint George (12)
Hours: Dinner, every day; Lunch, every day but Saturday
Reservations: last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 45 26 46 46
Website
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French bistro
Special attributes: open Sunday, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “…a brilliant two-speed menu that lets you go red-blooded bistro or opt for something more adventurous… Les Coulisses is terrific, and I am planning to become a regular here.”

John Talbott (2011) “…very satisfying…at this quality and those prices, all were wowed over…”

 

 

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Youpi et Voilà by Phyllis Flick

Youpi et Voilà

Fresh, pristine cooking from auto-didact Patrice Gelbart.

Practical information

Address: 8 rue Vicq d’Azir, 75010
Nearest transport: Colonel Fabien (2)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 83 89 12 63
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Trusted reviews

Fulgurances (2014)”Patrice Gelbart cuisine, tout en pudeur et affirmation, ses produits c’est son courage, sa passion du métier sa rage, son sens de l’échange son point d’ancrage.”

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “I’ve since spent a week puzzling over this meal, and have concluded the crew here would be much happier if they were cooking and serving their friends instead of running a general-public restaurant, and also that the metier of waiter or waitress that France so brilliantly perfected over the course of many centuries is in danger.”

John Talbott (2012) “…The poor pigeon I had was tough, tasteless and overcooked… against the opinions of all the other rapporteurs and my co-diners today, I cannot in good conscience (and mine is in bad shape) recommend it.”

Bruno Verjus (2012) “Dans les assiettes, les produits et associations sonnent juste, écho aux idées du chef. Assaisonnement vifs et précis, jeux de textures, les mets vibrent, illuminent. Les vins vivant sont à prix très raisonnables. Youpi, voilà un véritable restaurant.”

Phyllis Flick (2012) “Gelbart, a self-taught chef, is passionate about working with small local producers and the best seasonal products…His cooking is subtle and creative, using generous amounts of fresh herbs and plants with a mix of textures and flavors…I left feeling charmed by the atmosphere, the warm service, and obvious passion of the chef.”

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2012) “…des prix calmes et un service à la cool…Et dans l’assiette, des plats bons mais flegmatiques, insouciants, pas encore très concernés…Il va falloir attendre un peu que la bête se réveille…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2012) “…dans une petite salle coincée entre un mur fatalement de brique et l’autre forcément de pierre grattée, la belle santé d’une cuisine de feeling et de produit franc. Si le cool avait un goût, ce serait celui-là.”

 

 

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L'Epi Dupin via www.epidupin.com

L’Epi Dupin

L’Epi Dupin has been attracting a mix of loyal locals and tourists since it opened in 1995.

Practical information

Address: 11 rue Dupin, 75006
Nearest transport: Sevres-Babylone (10, 12)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Friday; lunch, Tuesday-Friday; closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually O.K.
Telephone: 01 42 22 64 56
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: market-based cooking, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Caroline Mignot (2009) “L’ardoise arrive, pas une suggestion qui ne fasse pas envie…Crevettes à peine saisies, au coeur encore fondant et “rosé”, enrobées de quelques grains de sésame…Velouté de Saint-Jacques incroyablement lisse…Le dessert parle de lui-même…”

 

 

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Racines 2

Now open: Racines, version 2.0, featuring the same product-driven cooking as the original, in a Philippe Starck-designed space.

Practical information

Address: 39 rue de l’Arbre Sec, 75001
Nearest transport: Louvre-Rivoli (1) or Les Halles (4)
Hours: Open for lunch & dinner Monday-Friday plus Saturday dinner; closed Saturday lunch & all day Sunday
Reservations: book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 42 60 77 34
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: classic French
Special attributes: prestige ingredients, open Monday

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2012) “The ‘menu’ is a very reasonable 29 E for 3 courses, but a la carte we’re dealing with double that, and that’s before liquids.  But I rather liked the ‘menu’…a perfectly cooked duck breast with a ton of vegetables…a chocolate mousse…All were much above average…”

Thierry Richard (2012) “La cuisine y est dans le droit fil de ce qui avait fait le succès de son jumeau : des produits de belle extraction, à peine transformés, soigneusement assaisonnés et aux cuissons toujours millimétrées. Mais il y a là un je ne sais quoi en plus qui fait claquer les doigts…”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “this restaurant feels very out of place in the rue de l’Arbre Sec…more alarming than the decor or the crowd, however, was the menu. For starters, it was short and difficult, because not only was it rather unappealing, it was also very expensive…if I want to spend 70 Euros on a meal, I can think of a lot of much better places to do so than Racines 2.”

François Simon – Le Figaro (2011) “Voilà des plats travaillant a minima, juste dans le souffle et l’élan…Attention, Racines 2 ne fait pas de la grande cuisine, juste une cuisine de produit, laissant passer celui-ci comme la muleta du torero. Certains risquent d’être déçus et je les entends d’ici : “Ah, ce n’est que ça ?!” Réponse: ce n’est que cela.”

Le Figaro (2011) “…cuisine toujours ciselée, nourrie aux beaux produits…généreuses terrines, salade, comme un tableau, de racines croquantes et arc-en-ciel de l’incontournable Annie Bertin, tendre côte de cochon, fondante tarte au citron…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2011)”…un bon spécimen de bistrot urbain nouveau…repas bien découplé entre petits plats de spontanéité et vins nature…Vitello tonnato : tranché un peu trop charnu mais plaisant. Poitrine de cochon, cocos de Paimpol et jus de cresson : beau gras bien relancé par des cocos bien en verve…”

 

 

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Monsieur le Prince by Barbra Austin

Monsieur le Prince

NOW CLOSED. A bistro with contemporary touches, in the old Chez Maitre Paul space.

Practical information

Address: 12 rue Monsieur le Prince, 75006

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2010) “They have a plat du jour for 14 E…Ordering off the carte though, is a whole other matter – I did the latter and was socked 38 E, now granted for much better (IMHO) and more inventive stuff…bonbons of oysters with sorrel sauce…a chunk of beef cheek that was so-so but had a great intense black sauce and wonderful teeny/tiny carrots, small potatoes and green sprigs…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “…une jeunesse franchement habile à éclaircir l’affaire sans totalement se départir des conforts patrimoniaux.”

Barbra Austin – Girls’ Guide to Paris (2010) “The menu is mostly classic bistro fare, updated with a few twists…cod with Camembert sauce is unexpected, and steamed daurade gets a dose of flavor from clams and briny seaweed. For nostalgic locals there is an homage to the old tenants, a cassolette of chicken with morels and vin jaune façon Chez Maître Paul.”

 

 

 

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Liza

Lebanese goes chic (et un peu cher) at Liza.

Practical information

Address: 14 rue de la Banque, 75002
Nearest transport: Bourse (3)
Hours: Monday-Friday, lunch and dinner; Saturday, dinner only; Sunday, brunch only.
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 55 35 00 66
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Lebanese
Special attributes: small plates, vegetarian options, good for groups, open Sunday, open Monday, valet parking

Reviews of interest

Figaroscope (2011) “Pour manger avec classe du bout des doigts, on n’a pas trouvé mieux que les mezze de cette table libanaise…”

 

 

 

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Le Chardenoux des Pres by Barbra Austin

Le Chardenoux des Près

A second outpost of Cyril Lignac’s Chardenoux. Prices are trés Saint-Germain.

Practical information

Address: 27 rue du Dragon, 75006
Nearest transport: Saint Sulpice (4)
Hours: Open every day, lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 45 48 29 68
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, French bistro
Website

Reviews of interest

Philippe Toinard (2014) “S’il n’est pas présent quotidiennement au Chardenoux des Prés dans le quartier de Saint-Germain-des-Prés, sa vision d’une cuisine sincère est relayée par son chef Ludovic Gernidos…Rendre la cuisine accessible, Cyril Lignac l’a compris en proposant un menu au déjeuner à moins de 30 euros composé à partir de produits simples mais préparés avec juste ce qu’il faut d’ingéniosité pour les rendre attrayants…”

Patricia Wells (2011) “…probably the most insipid restaurant meal I have eaten in Paris in 32 years…Every dish was a disaster, void of taste, texture, personality.”

Caroline Mignot (2011) “En salle, service attentionné, un peu blagueur, bistrotier parigot dans le bon sens…petites moules plongées dans une crème curry bien mousseuse, épinards hachés fins, c’est simple et bon…la carte très bistrotière (tartare, entrecôte), avec quelques plats inspirés d’ailleurs (chipirons/piperade, moussaka)…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2011) “Décor fameux dans l’à-propos rétro, cuisine du même tonneau. Trois cœurs à la santé de la rive gauche…Service? Sincèrement, l’un des meilleurs du moment, souriant, le bon mot plein la bouche, ménageant distance et disponibilité…”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “…decent but timidly seasoned and over-priced bistro food…the kitchen is able enough, and the food’s pretty good, but when did 50 Euros become an acceptable tab for a casual bistro meal?”

Jérôme Berger – A Nous Paris (2011) “Un copier-coller de la carte du XIe…un sauté de veau aux olives vertes, manquant un peu de fondant, pas de peps; et une crème glacée à la pistache – diabolique – sur une salade de cerises, encore trop vertes.”

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2011) “Papier peint fleuri d’origine, plafond effet nicotiné, appliques années 50, baguettes lecture pour les journaux, grand comptoir en marbre…Dans l’assiette, du bistrot tiré à quatre épingles, avec même quelques velléités gastronomiques…”

 

 

 

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Racines by Meg Zimbeck

Racines

Founding chef Pierre Jancou has moved on, but the roots remain. New chef Renaud Marcille is bringing a touch of elegance to the product-driven, market cooking, served, as always, with natural wine, inside the city’s oldest covered passage.

Practical information

Address: 8 passage des Panoramas, 75002
Nearest transport: Grands Boulevards (8,9)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Closed Saturday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 40 13 06 41
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, French bistro
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, open Monday

Reviews of interest

François-Régis Gaudry (2012) “Fouettée au sang neuf de Renaud Marcille, trentenaire arrivé cet été après 4 ans comme sous-chef chez Alain Senderens et quelques saisons en tant que chef de partie au Meurice. Le petit gars en a suffisamment sous le capot pour piloter du bout des doigts une assiette bistrotière dans l’esprit originel du lieu, tout en mettant des coups d’accélérateur à vous décrocher la mâchoire. Deux plats, deux sensations fortes.”

Chrisos (2011) “Je garde un bon souvenir de mon chapon, même si les légumes sont trop beurrés…Le reste n’était pas mal, mais pas marquant…Ce n’est pas désagréable, mais c’est cher pour ce que c’est.”

Food Intelligence (2011) “La patte agile de ce chef, nouveau venu, dans le monde de la cuisine “nature” apporte quelques reliefs aussi inattendus que bienvenus.”

Food Intelligence (2010) “David Lanher le nouveau propriétaire du Racines vient de s’adjoindre les services de Nicolas Gauduin en cuisine. 26 ans à peine, pour cet ancien de l’Arpège, du Laurent et du Divellec. Il pratique une cuisine de belle qualité ou les produits (réputation de cette maison de cuisine) sont travaillés en humilité et avec gourmandises.”

The Guardian (2010) “…evangelical about vins naturels.”

Thierry Richard (2010) “Pierre Jancou a cédé son affaire pour filer sous d’autres soleils, mais l’équipe est restée et tient la maison solidement arrimée à son excellente réputation…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2009) “Nouvelle équipe pour cette cave à manger mais toujours une bobine très jadis et naguère, des fioles militant le vin nature, une popote brut de terroir, un accueil plus ou moins épidermique, une addition pas franchement popu et l’impassible allant du passage des Panos. On aime encore !”

David Lebovitz (2008) “…one of the best places I’ve eaten in Paris in a long time.”

 

 

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Brasserie de l’Isle Saint Louis

This classic brasserie has been in business since 1953, and is still run the same family.

Practical information

Address: 55 quai de Bourbon, 75004
Nearest transport: Pont Marie (7)
Hours: Closed Wednesday; open all other days, noon-11pm
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 43 54 02 59
Website
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French – Brasserie
Special attributes: open Sunday, open Monday, continuous all-day service

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “this was the best choucroute I’d had a in a longtime, and the quality of the cooking was such that I’m planning to go back soon…”

John Talbott (2012) “The menu is classic…it’s fun, as good as 1953 gets and reasonable enough.”

 

 

 

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Le Gaigne by John Talbott

Le Gaigne

Now closed (in July 2013). At this small, contemporary bistro near the Centre Pompidou, Chef Mickael Gaigner shows off his skills — honed in high end kitchens — at reasonable prices: Weekday lunches are priced at 17/23€ for two or three courses, and there’s a five-course dinner menu at 42€.

Practical information

Address: 12 rue Pecquay, 75004
Nearest transport: Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Now closed
Reservations: Now closed
Telephone: Now closed
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a3512d82ab29283d1&ll=48.860293,2.356275&spn=0.006931,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.

Reviews of interest

Le Gaigne closed in July 2013

  • John Talbott (2012) “…a place we go back to time after time…”
  • John Talbott (2011) “…the food so good and the prices so right, what’s not to love…parsnip soup with an intruiging croquette containing an egg in the middle, with “oreille et pied de cochon à la sauge”… a “gougère aux escargots du pré de Mme Liège à la sauce soubise,” sounding much fancier but tasting pretty gutsy.”
  • John Talbott (2010) “There has been some negative chatter in the blogosphere about Le Gaigne which I have not and do not understand…”
  • Mark Bittman – NY Times (2009) “…charming, the kind of place I’d love to see more of….They seem to deal with everything effortlessly: the food is on time, it’s hot, it’s good and it’s interesting; the wine list is solid…”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2008) “Gaignon…has a brilliant way with fish. I had brill poached with thyme and served with new-season choucroute (sauerkraut) and a sautee of girolles…a perfectly balanced composition in terms of taste… royale of duck as a starter was sublime, and a friend who tried the rabbit stuffed with marinated peppers and garnished with tiny florets of romanesco (green cauliflower) was very happy, too.”
  • François Simon (date unknown) “…une cuisine pleine de sens…La tarte de langoustines et champignons d’automne est une sorte de petit hold-up, mains au-dessus de la tête, pas un mot, portable fermé, personne ne bouge. La tarte est présente sans trop plomber de son feuilletage. C’est excellent.”

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Les Bistronomes by Barbra Austin

Les Bistronomes

The menu here appears classic enough (barring a salmon tataki), but the presentations are full of surprises.

Practical information

Address: 34 rue de Richelieu, 75001
Nearest transport: Pyramides (7, 14)
Hours: Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually O.K.
Telephone: 01 42 60 59 66
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French bistro
Special attributes: open Monday

Trusted reviews

Caroline Mignot (2011) “Nouveau bistrot qui cherche un brin de sophistication…Asperges…avec leur vinaigrette à la truffe qui me donne surtout en bouche un goût de foie gras. Mâche assaisonnée à la même vinaigrette, c’est vif et gourmand, ça se laisse bien déguster…Le café crème à 5 €, on n’apprécie pas et le soir à la carte, ça douille un peu…”

Barbra Austin (2011) “…professionalism is palpable in the welcome, the simple elegance of the room, and on the plate…pâté en croute, and lentils with Morteau sausage, both presented with an elegance that flouted the robustness of these hearty classics.”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “…a superb and stunningly professional new bistro…pâté en croûte with pickled baby vegetables was a deeply flavored slab of ground pork with a knob of foie gras and a chunk of rare duck breast in a beautifully made pastry crust…lentil salad was garnished with smoky slices of Morteau sausage and a nosegay of mesclun almost invisibly enlivened by a mustard-and-red-wine vinaigrette.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2011)  “Pâté en croûte et ses légumes pickles: bon ton. Filet de pigeon rôti en croûte, chou braisé au jus gras: beau travail mais le chou quasi invisible. Mille et une feuilles de banane, flambé au rhum vieux: pas désagréable mais sans liant.” Rating: 2/4 hearts.

John Talbott (2011) “…the scallop soup…did not contain pieces of scallops but rather was a beautifully cuisinarted/mixed/pulverized cream of scallop essence…I had the pied de cochon parmentier…here the pigs’ feet were in a sort of rectangular…the potatoes were not mashed but reduced to almost a cream, most different and delightful.”

Philippe Toinard – A Nous Paris (2011) “Le pied de cochon est effectivement désossé puis recomposé avant d’être entouré d’une crépinette pour être présenté façon andouillette…. remarquable.” Rating: 4/5 dots.

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2011) “…de tout ce qu’on a goûté, il n’y avait rien, absolument rien à jeter. Ni le velouté de butternut superbe, mousseux, légèrement musqué, caressé par une écume de lard fermier et un trait d’huile de pépin de courge ni le poulet des Dombes, son moelleux grandiose qui n’a rien à envier aux volailles de Bresse, sa sauce crémée à l’estragon…”

 

 

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Chez Denise

La Tour de Montlhéry – Chez Denise

The market at Les Halles is long gone, but its legacy is still in evidence at Chez Denise, an old-school, shoulder-to-shoulder, red-checked tablecloth classic. Open ’til the wee hours.

Practical information

Address: 5 rue des Prouvaires, 75001
Nearest transport: Les Halles (4, RER A, B)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually O.K.
Telephone: 01 42 36 21 82
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: comfort food, late night bites

Reviews of interest

Patricia Wells (2012) “Thank goodness for old-time bistros like Chez Denise…This is a good-time place for feasting, sitting elbow to elbow with your neighbors, living in carnivore utopia.”

David Lebovitz (2010) “I take guests here for the classic Parisian bistro experience.”

François Simon (2010) “c’est Paris, les Halles…le coude à coude authentique (en clair, cela veut dire que des gens sont à votre table). Les serveurs sont virils, expéditifs mais savent expliquer en anglais ce que sont des <couteaux en persillade>. D’habitude, c’est plutôt débrouillez vous, on pas que ça à faire. Sur les tables voisines, on admire avec une timidité effarée les portions…”

Alexander Lobrano via France Today (2010) “The last of the bawdy old late-night bistrots in Les Halles… what could be more fun than going to dinner at 2:30 am and digging into some grilled marrow bones…?”

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Café Salle Pleyel via cafesallepleyel.com

Café Salle Pleyel

Café Salle Pleyel via cafesallepleyel.com
The chefs at Café Salle Pleyel are itinerant, like the musicians who play in the adjacent concert hall. Currently at the podium stove is Mauro Colagreco. Closed for dinner and weekends except when there is a performance.

Practical information

Address: 252 rue Faubourg Saint Honoré, 75008
Nearest transport: Ternes (2)
Hours: Lunch, Monday-Friday; dinner on performance nights only
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 53 75 28 44
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a392b67a2c322dd63&ll=48.877375,2.301314&spn=0.006929,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: modern French
Special attributes: open Monday
Type of crowd: suits, foodies, neighborhood locals
Interior: polished & modern
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • John Talbott (2010) “Madame L. had the signature Basque dish a piperade with an egg and the two men had something described as cru-cuit mushrooms which we both wrongly assumed would have something warm, not so, the cru, the cuit and the cuisinarted mushrooms were all tiede.   Hummmm.   I wrote down “good but not great” just before he said something similar…”
  • François-Regis Gaudry – l’Express (2010) “…de l’envie, de l’idée, de l’air du temps humé à pleins poumons mais une exécution qui manque un peu de souffle.”
  • Alexander Lobrano – The New York Times (2010) “…some of the best modern French country cooking to be found anywhere in Gaul right now, including such dishes as tartare of maigre (a firm white-fleshed Atlantic fish) with roasted fennel bulb, pumpkin seeds and chickpea puree; a foie-gras “hamburger”; and a sublime brandade made with foie gras and leeks.”

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L'Hédoniste by Barbra Austin

L’Hédoniste

NOW CLOSED This Sentier address offers a streamlined menu of contemporary cooking, with global accents, and (comme il faut, these days) natural wines.

Practical information

Address: 14 rue Léopold Bellan, 75002
Nearest transport: Sentier (3)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 40 26 87 33
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a33ccbde98639f850&ll=48.866806,2.345989&spn=0.006931,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes:
Type of crowd: foodies, neighborhood locals
Interior: polished & modern
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

NOW CLOSED

  • John Talbott (2012) “… the welcome is still just as warm and the offerings are still quite appealing…”
  • Caroline Mignot (2011) “Les prix pardi ! 28,50 € la formule déjeuner (entrée-plat ou plat-dessert, 35 € les 3), certes gourmande et raffinée (vous verrez), mais à midi, ça peut refroidir.”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2011) “…first courses were delicious…green asparagus served with fava beans and a plump ravioli filled with creamy goat cheese… ‘tataki’ (thin slices) of beef with a light sauce of reduced beef jus and beets…clams in a gently briny bouillon spiked by galanga…All three dishes showed off the kitchen’s cosmopolitan imagination and precise cooking skills….Given the excellent quality of the cooking, the friendly service, and the reasonable prices here, this is an address I’ve already been back to two more times, and one at which I expect to become a regular…”
  • François Simon (2011) “En entrée, un céviche puis des saint jacques avec radis et navets. Ce fut un vrai bonheur précis et enlevé. Ce genre d’adresse sur laquelle vous vous retournez dans la rue. Hautement recommandable.”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2011) “L’une des heureuses surprises du moment, où, selon le désormais classique refrain du «rien dans le décor, tout dans l’assiette», une épatante sève de cuisine en vertu bistrotière parvient à faire oublier une salle veule, ingrate, dépourvue de toute gaieté.”
  • Barbra Austin via Girls’ Guide to Paris (2011) “This contemporary bistro may not justify a trip across town but is a great choice after a day strolling around Montorgueil or les Halles.”
  • John Talbott (2010) “If Chicago is Sinatra’s kind of town, L’Hedoniste is my kind of restaurant/bistro – inventive cooking in a neat setting with reasonable prices.  This is the find of 2011.”
  • Chrisoscope(2010) “…hautement recommandable…de belles assiettes réalisées par un chef, Sébastien Dubrulle, qui a déjà fait ses preuves et confirme son talent. En salle, un jeune restaurateur, Arthur Pétillault, et une jeune femme aimable, Kathleen Mayer, qui connaissent très bien leurs sujets…”

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Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

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La Fontaine de Mars

The Obamas ate here! The Obamas ate here! This perpetual favorite, a mainstay on the crowded rue Saint-Dominique, offers classic cooking with a southwestern tilt. Open every day.

Practical information

Address: 129 rue Saint-Dominique, 75007
Nearest transport: École Militaire (8) or Pont de l’Alma (RER C)
Hours: Open every day, lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 47 05 46 44
Website
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French: southwestern
Special attributes: outdoor dining, open Sunday, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “…we had a very, very good meal, and that this place has vaulted to the top of my Sunday lunch…I couldn’t resist the oeufs au Madiran “facon meurette,” which are as good a reason as I can imagine to get out of bed on a Sunday before noon…”

 

 

 

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L'Agrume by Barbra Austin

L’Agrume

This contemporary bistro was seriously hyped in its early days, thanks in part to the 37€, five-course menu and a young chef with a great resumé, and perhaps the novelty of a middle-of-nowhere location, deep in the fifth.

Practical information

Address: 15 rue des Fossés St. Marcel, 75005
Nearest transport: Les Gobelins (7) or St. Marcel (5)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 43 31 86 48
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.fr/maps/ms?hl=fr&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a35324f0b5a1d85ee&ll=48.838952,2.356189&spn=0.006934,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, good for solo dining, open Monday
Type of crowd: foodies, neighborhood locals
Interior: bare bones & minimal
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • Meg Zimbeck (2011) “L’Agrume is a well-intentioned and often delicious neighborhood restaurant where you can eat five courses for €37. The service is kind, and the interior is entirely without pretension. It should not be a destination for food-minded visitors to Paris.”
  • Phyllis Flick (2010) “…but it’s already getting lots of press, and with good reason.”
  • François Simon (2010) “Vous allez adorer cette adresse toute simple, dépouillée, c’est comme un javelot savoureux.”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2010) “…the food exhibits all of the astonishing culinary discipline that makes me a doggedly perennial optimist…”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2010) “Jolie cuisine d’éclaircie et d’émotion sincèrement désarmante…”
  • John Talbott (2010) “I take the lunch formula – starting with a trio of starters –  shrimps with seaweed and ginger (delicious), sliced chicken with celery remoulade… and a veloute of leeks…with some infused olive oil it was heavenly”.
  • Caroline Mignot (2010) “Une cuisine au jour le jour que le chef veut résolument fraîche et légère, des produits extra frais, des cuissons sur la longueur et la plénitude (il s’agit de ne surtout pas bousculer les chairs), une cuisine qui a tout compris…”

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Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

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Rino by Meg Zimbeck

Rino (CLOSED)

Giovanni Passerini made a name for Rino with his modern market cooking and handmade pastas. He sold Rino in late 2013. NOW CLOSED

Practical information

Address: 46 rue Trousseau 75011 – NOW CLOSED

[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a3c90f83e2b8a9549&ll=48.852546,2.379141&spn=0.013865,0.038581&z=15 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.

Reviews of interest

  • François Simon (2010) “…une table agréable et valeureuse.”
  • Barbra Austin (2010) “a parade of very pretty plates… a fantastic escabeche of rouget with white asparagus…sardine ravioli in fennel consommé…a thick, trembling cut of cod with pil pil sauce..”
  • Meg Zimbeck (2010) “I was delighted…There’s something really fun about looking at a menu and having no idea about the taste of the proposed dishes.”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2010) “Simple, sincere, delicious, intense, this was one of the best meals I’ve eaten in a longtime…”
  • Phyllis Flick (2010) “…daring market-based cuisine is light without the use of heavy sauces, using the best of seasonal ingredients including stunning vegetables…”
  • John Talbott (2010) “Great fish, wonderful chef and waitstaff, otherwise OK.”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “Une cuisine d’entre slam et ring, tout à la fois énergique, dans l’élan, dans l’influx, épatante à jongler entre le naturel et le juteux…”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

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Bistro Volnay by Barbra Austin

Bistro Volnay

Heavy silver, plush carpeting, and swanky art deco decor give the Volnay plenty of adult sophistication.

Practical information

Address: 8 rue Volney, 75002
Nearest transport: Opéra (3, 7, 8 )
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 61 06 65
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, French bistro
Special attributes: prix-fixe, excellent cheese course, good for game, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2012) “…ce bistrot d’élite valse régulièrement avec les chefs. En espérant donc que se maintienne le petit dernier, puisé au filon nippon, ancien de l’excellent Stella Maris et fameux de maîtrise dans son genre néoclassique.”

John Talbott (2012) “…The place still looks lovely with its 1932 lights over the bar, deep interior and bright ambiance…petit pois soup…salmon confited with citrus fruit…foie gras with dried fruit chutney…pigs’ feet, parmesan and cured ham; all were great.”

JohnTalbott (2010) “…started with three of the finest scallops I’ve ever had; I had a soup of millions of shellfish reduced to a delicious creamy smooth soup…We had two classic desserts, both of which were perfect: a Grand Marnier souffle and crepes with Grand Marnier.”

Alexander Lobrano (2010) “Aside from Dufroux’s very good contemporary French bistro cooking…what I love about this place is that it proves that hip young Parisians really do know and like good food beyond the identikit menus at the Costes Brothers tentacular empire.”

Barbra Austin via Girls’ Guide to Paris (2010) “good enough to visit regularly and elegant enough for a special occasion.”

John Talbott (2010) “The Bistro Volnay is a place I’ve been to 3 times in as many years under 3 different chefs…”I approached the place with trepidation – fancy entry, all suits and ties and all men, most (around us) speaking English, an imposing menu, with hefty supplements for anything not on the “menu.”

François Simon – Le Figaro (2010) “…un bistrot que nous avions adoré lors de son lancement…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “…une vraie belle allure de bistrot qui tamise en volumes contemporains le Paris des années 1920-1930-1940…”

John Talbott (2009) “There was nothing wrong, just nothing really great.”

 

 

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Ze Kitchen Galerie by Meg Zimbeck

Ze Kitchen Galerie

East meets west at William Ledeuil’s much-lauded Ze Kitchen Galerie.

Practical information

Address: 4 rue des Grands Augustins, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10) or St. Michel (4, RER B, C)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Closed Saturday lunch
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 44 32 00 32
Website
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: modern French, fusion
Special attributes: prix-fixe, renowned chef, open Monday

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2014) “If I die tonight, I’ll die happy.  With William in the kitchen and Cedric minding the front, what more could one ask for? This place has managed to both get it down pat and keep changing – a wonderful combo.”

Thierry Richard (2013) “Tout change mais rien ne change: la table de William Ledeuil reste toujours l’une de nos adresses parisiennes préférées.”

John Talbott (2011) “Ze Kitchen Galerie keeps on producing, and one enters never knowing what to expect and leaves astonished by the creative mind that keeps on creating dishes…a sea urchin soup with squid, pressed salmon eggs…wrapped minced milk-fed lamb with Thai herbs and ginger…crab and shrimp raviolis with Thai pistou…”

Meg Zimbeck (2010) “Ledeuil’s marriage of Far Eastern flavors and traditional French ingredients is unusual in this city. Beyond simply being ‘interesting,’ Ledeuil’s conceptions also taste consistently good…”

François Simon (2007) “…ce qui nous enchante, c’est le métissage des idées à l’instar de la cuisine pratiquée par William Ledeuil, dans sa Kitchen Galerie.”

 

 

 

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Le Dôme du Marais by John Talbott

Le Dôme du Marais

The biggest draw to this recently-revamped historic address might be the setting.

Practical information

Address: 53 bis rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75004
Nearest transport: Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 74 54 17
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a351092ea7409ac3e&ll=48.859139,2.358168&spn=0.006932,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Modern French, brasserie
Special attributes: Open Sunday, open Monday
Type of crowd: style hounds
Interior: elegant & luxe
Atmosphere: romantic

Reviews of interest

  • John Talbott (2012) “…it’s still stunning, but the food while good, is not.”
  • François Simon (2012) “Les plats. Eux aussi ont compris qu’il s’agissait de faire dans le joli et le bon. Mission accomplie avec un rendu de copie sans état d’âme ; le cahier des charges est bien rempli la daurade est royale, l’avocat king crabe est bien gaulé, mais le verre de Faugères est bien cher…”
  • Thierry Richard (2009) “…quand par hasard l’idée vous revient et que vous filez déjeuner au Dôme du Marais, sous l’antique rotonde de lumière dorée (l’ancienne salle des ventes de Ma Tante), les goûts vous reviennent en bouche avant l’assiette.”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

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