Tag Archives: 75011

L'Auberge Flora by Meg Zimbeck

L’Auberge Flora

Flora herself does the cooking at this urban inn, offering a range of shareable small plates, or a heftier menu (at higher prices).

Practical information

Address: 44 boulevard Richard Lenoir, 75011
Nearest transport: Breguet Sabin (5)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, every day
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 47 00 52 77
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French bistro
Website

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2014) “Wonderful staff; limited menu.”

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “I know that this is a restaurant I’ll very happily be visiting again. Yes, the kitchen isn’t up to speed yet, but the menu’s fascinating, they work with great produce, the service is charming, and the prices are reasonable.”

John Talbott (2012) “The menu is supposed to be tapas-like but as far as I’m concerned the plates are quite ample… I had a spectacular/heavenly/wonderful pork rib…Go?  You bet.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012) “…un bon cœur de cuisine, où fibre ménagère et solide fond de terroir trouvent à s’exprimer en manière citadine.”

Caroline Mignot (2012) “Dans le désordre, la planche de charcuteries dont une caillette très convaincante (mélange de chair à saucisse, d’herbes, d’oignons, le tout dentelé de crépine), une rillette de lapin terrible (câpres, citron confit, huile d’olive, j’en aurais dégusté toute la soirée), un saucisson aux olives, des câpres, des olives qui seront finalement le joli fil conducteur de ce moment.”

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deux fois plus de piment photo catherine down

Deux Fois Plus de Piment

The place for pepper-laden Chinese fare.

Practical information

Address: 33 rue Saint Sébastien, 75011
Nearest transport: Saint Sébastien-Froissart (8) or Richard Lenoir (5)
Hours: Dinner, every day; Lunch on Thurday, Saturday, Monday, and Tuesday
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 01 58 30 99 35
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Chinese

Reviews of interest

Hipsters in Paris (2013) “Here you will find the hottest Sichuan cooking in Paris. White plastic table cloths, a disdain for décor, even sometimes a disdain for customers, it’s the best place to test your tolerance for the elusive Sichuan pepper. The cold noodles are a highlight, as is the cold cucumber. The tofu will, quite deceptively, blow your head off.”

David Lebovitz (2010) “…spicy beyond belief, my mouth and throat buzzing with the fuzzy heat of Szechuan pepper…”

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Soya via soya75.fr

Soya

The vegetarian landscape in Paris continues to improve. In the airy, minimally decorated dining room at Soya, you’ll find the usual suspects (salads, curries, savory tarts, soy in all its forms), all organic, and a thoughtful winelist.

Practical information

Address: 20 rue de la Pierre Levée, 75011
Nearest transport: Goncourt (11)
Hours: Closed Sunday dinner
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 48 06 33 02
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Vegetarian
Website

Reviews of interest

Figaroscope (2012) “Une vraie cantine de bobos…95 % de la carte est bio, végétarienne et souvent sans gluten, avec des recettes «fusion» originales et savoureuses à faire pâlir d’envie leurs homologues carnivores…”

Aaron Ayscough (2011) “…it is downright astonishing: a vegetarian restaurant with an excellent, well-considered natural wine list.”

Alexander Lobrano (2010) “…we had a pleasant meal in this relaxed, friendly bobo nest in the 11th arrondissement. Among the dishes we liked were their mezze, houmous, soy couscous, lasagna stuffed with tofu, and tofu cheesecake…”

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Caffé dei Cioppi

Almost universally adored, this tiny spot, hidden from the street, is the Italian restaurant everyone wishes were in their neighborhood. Booking imperative.

Practical information

Address: 159 rue du Faubourg St. Antoine, 75011
Nearest transport: Ledru Rollin or Faidherbe Chaligny (8)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Tuesday-Friday; available for private parties on Saturdays and Mondays
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 46 10 14
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Italian
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Reviews of interest

Aaron Ayscough (2014) “Chef-owner Fabrizio Ferrara has for the past four years been garnering great reviews merely for offering actual serious Italian food to Parisians at fair prices, accompanied by well-chosen honest wines. The menu changes at the pace of a glacier; nothing is controversial; everything runs like a dream.”

Caroline Mignot (2011) “Derrière le comptoir, la petite équipe s’affaire, pas plus souriante que ça, mais efficace et aimable. Carte courte et fraîche, quelques entrées, végétales, charcutières, un risotto aux artichauts, deux pasta et les desserts à 5,50 € toujours aussi tentants.”

Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “ette mini-trattoria fait vite le coup du charme…On se délecte de soupe de lentilles de Castellucio relevée d’une huile d’olive divine, burrata et caponata sicilienne, salade de fenouil avec crevettes à l’orange sanguine. C’est frais, vif, léger, sans esbroufe..”

Phyllis Flick (2010) “…with the atmosphere you get the perfect neighborhood restaurant with simple, yet good, food…”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “My only regret as we went off into the night after a truly fine feed was that this place isn’t in my neighborhood.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2009) “un binôme masculin-féminin prodigue à faire mozzareller, risotter, vongoler, parmigianiser le plus simple (et donc le meilleur) de l’Italie…”

Caroline Mignot (2009) “La carte ? C’est un problème, on a envie de tout commander, en fait, on ne sait pas ce qu’on ne veut pas prendre.”

François Simon (2009) “Si j’habitais dans le coin, j’y aurais mon rond de serviette. Délicieux, chaleureux, voila l’adresse qui réconcilie avec les restaurants.”

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Homemade tagliatelle with salt cod and tomatoes

Come A Casa

A tiny gem of a restaurant with an even tinier menu that changes each day. The warm welcome and trilingual service is Italian hospitality at its finest. The wine list is short, affordable, and Italian.

 An absolute favorite

Practical Information

Address: 7 rue Pache, 75011
Nearest transport: Voltaire (9)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Open Monday from 7pm-10pm and Tuesday-Saturday 12pm-2:30pm and 7pm-10pm
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
Telephone: 01 77 15 08 19
E-mail: comeacasa7@gmail.com
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Italian & pizza
Website

Reviews of interest

Emmanuel Rubin (2014) “La plus fringante des trattorias que l’on ait eu à fréquenter cette saison, bien dans son décor «au petit bonheur la broc’» et surtout relevée par la belle touche familiale d’une jeune et jolie mamma Roma.”

David Lebovitz (2013) “This Italian restaurant is really home-style cooking…Out came the pasta…mine was stuffed with plenty of aromatic fresh sage and topped with olive oil and shavings of ricotta salata. It was wildly herbaceous and although the French make generous use of herbs in home cooking, you rarely find things with lots of fresh herbs served in restaurants.”

Lindsey Tramuta-Morel (2013) “Come A Casa is warm, welcoming and guaranteed to delight. Just don’t forget to order the stracciatella.”

Patricia Wells (2013) “My favorite here is the ethereally light lasagne (photo) with fillings that change from day to day, with such variations as artichokes, spinach, or pesto, all topped with slivers of fragrant Parmesan and a touch of arugula.”

 

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Clown Bar photo Meg Zimbeck

Clown Bar

No clowning around here. A serious team from Saturne has taken over the historic bar near Cirque d’Hiver. The beautiful Belle Epoque space remains (tastefully) decorated with clowns, but the menu has been revived by Sota Atsumi’s intriguing product focused small plates. Wines are natural, with good options by the glass as well as the bottle.

Practical information

Address: 114 rue Amelot, 75011
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday; Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Wednesday-Sunday
Reservations: Book a couple days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 55 87 35
Average price for lunch: 40-59€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Modern French, small plates & tapas
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Reviews of Interest

Isabelle Legeron (2014) “This listed 1902 clown-themed wonder, with its ornate glass ceiling, painted wall tiles and original zinc bar, transports you to a different era… The staff are warm, welcoming and knowledgeable and the list is perfectly curated, including bottles specially created for the group such as a delicious pétillant naturel from Le Petit Domaine de Gimios.

Emmanuel Rubin (2014) “Une jeunesse autour de tapas de haute percussion et de vins bien dans la veine nature.”

John Talbott (2014) “A great resuscitation of a grand old lady.”

Alexander Lobrano (2014) “Turbot with razor-shell clams, white asparagus and rhubarb in salted butter was one of the most satisfying dishes I’ve had for a long time, since the product was impeccable and the constellation of tastes made sense on the palate but was pushed just off-center enough by the rhubarb to be unexpected.”

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Restaurant Pierre Sang Boyer via Facebook

Restaurant Pierre Sang Boyer

After a series of pop-ups, Top Chef finalist Pierre Sang Boyer has an address in Oberkampf, an open-kitchen showcase for his colorful, modern cooking.

Practical information

Address: 55 rue Oberkampf, 75011
Nearest transport: Parmentier (3)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Tuesday-Friday; dinner only on Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: not accepted
Telephone: no phone
Website

Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: open kitchen
Type of crowd: foodies
Interior: polished & modern
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2012) “Our first course consisted of gambas with a caviar of eggplant and slices of frozen bananas – Whoa! – and our second a joue de boeuf with ginger, sliced carrots, corn polenta, pickled vegetables, lettuce and a sauce that looked all the world like catsup but couldn’t have tasted more different.”

Caroline Mignot (2012) “Au fil du repas, je dirais que j’ai senti que le chef s’amusait avec ses compositions spontanées, gaies et amusées. Parfois, ça marchait bien et parfois, je ne pouvais m’empêcher de revoir ces scènes télévisées où le chef se laissait embarquer par son enthousiasme et ses envies de puncher les produits en tirant le tout par les cheveux.”

Sophie Brissaud (2012) “…le repas s’est maintenu à une altitude constante  — et élevée…Les vins proposés par Max sont choisis avec autant de passion et de chaleur que Pierre-Sang en met à cuisiner…un repas sublime…”

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DSC_0098

Pizza dei Cioppi

The much adored and hard to book Caffé dei Cioppi has branched out into pizza with pleasing results. The long, rectangular pizza al taglio with a springy foccacia base is available by the slice for roughly 6.50€. Offerings include pizzas like the Calabrese (spicy N’duja sausage spread, dollops of sheep’s milk ricotta, mozzarella and tomato sauce), Focaccia farcie (cherry tomatoes, fresh buffalo mozzarella and an unruly mound of arugula) or the Vegetariana (sheep’s milk ricotta, eggplant, roasted red peppers and mozzarella), alongside some salads and a handful of desserts. There’s Birra del Borgo to wash it all down. You can eat onsite at one of the few Formica tables, but you can also get your giant slice to go, too.

Practical information

Address: 44 rue Trousseau, 75011
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8),
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Not accepted
Telephone: 09 84 48 14 58
Average price for lunch: under 10€
Average price for dinner: under 10€
Style of cuisine: Italian & pizza

Reviews of Interest

Emmanuel Rubin (2014) “Une classique, la Calabrese (ricotta, saucisse pimentée, fromage de brebis): fournie. En prime, quelques soupes, charcuteries et des cannellonis frais du jour.”

 

 

 

 

 

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Bones restaurant in Paris charcuterie

Bones

After making a name for himself at Au Passage, Aussie chef James Henry is back with an ambitious restaurant. Its name is reflected in Henry’s attention to raw materials – stripped-down brick and stone in the dining room, and pristine products in the kitchen. Ingredients that Henry doesn’t make himself (bread, butter, fresh cheese and charcuterie) are carefully sourced from Annie Bertin, Terroirs d’Avenir, La Ruchotte, and other reputable producers. Preparations might be raw, pickled, smoked, barbecued or frozen, but the integrity of the base ingredient still shines through. The no-choice tasting menu includes four courses plus amuses for 47€. Add another 8€ for cheese. Up front, there’s a bar serving craft beers and wines by the glass, along with oysters, raw fish sliced to order, and house-made charcuterie. Expect loud music and plenty of youthful eastern Paris attitude. Named as one of our favorite new restaurants of 2013.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 43 rue Godefroy Caviagnac, 75011
Nearest transport: Voltaire (9)
Hours: Dinner Tuesday through Saturday; Closed Sunday and Monday.
Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance (no reservations for bar)
Telephone: 09 80 75 32 08
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2014) “There is something un-Parisian about this place, from the chalkboard that says the bread is made in-house to the exceptionally friendly, bearded waitstaff (the sommelier is happy to open a bottle of wine for you to try before committing). The massive côte de bœuf is particularly outstanding and goes down well with any of the reds on the wine list.”

Aaron Ayscough (2013) “The natural wine list at Bones is respectable, and wine buyer Pierre Derrien has succeeded in getting admirable allocations of certain sought-after natural producers (Pfifferling, Ganevat, Cornelissen, etc.). Derrien also deserves a lot of credit for actively expanding the list, pushing boundaries, and offering clients more than what they might otherwise demand. I hope he’ll forgive me if I still suggest that the list at Bones could use slightly better oversight, more staff training, and faster service.”

Le Figaro (2010) “Côté bar, on grignote charcuteries affinées maison, butternut et ricotta, foie gras et figue fraîche ou carpaccio de mulet noir. Côté resto, on déroule trois savoureux amuse-bouches (cœurs de canard, huîtres fumées, gambas à la plancha), deux entrées (dont un rouget, ­piperade d’anthologie), un plat (pintade croustillante ou cœur de veau) et un dessert (glace amande, quetsche, meringue). Les assiettes, graphiques et minimalistes, ont toutes le même squelette: trois produits de choix. Sans fausse note.”

Lindsey Tramuta (2013) “Henry plays up raw materials in design and approaches pedigreed ingredients in a noble, unpretentious way. You’ll find small plates of raw, seared, pickled, smoked or grilled fish, meat and vegetables that you’d be hard pressed to find on the plate anywhere else.”

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “This place matters most as the launch pad for a young man who is quite certainly fated to become a very successful and well-known chef, whether this future unfolds in Paris or elsewhere. It’s also just a big sweet gulp of fresh air for anyone who wants Paris to ignore the 3 Bs–Berlin, Barcelona and Brooklyn, and coin its own idea of a grandly Gallic good time at the beginning of this new century as surely as it did the last one.”

T Magazine (2013) “At the bar, three kinds of oysters are offered à l’unité, superbly fresh and bright. Bar menu bedfellows include vividly citrusy sea bass carpaccio and fulsome paper-thin slices of cured, dried and smoked duck breast. By-the-glass options span Sicilian Lamoresca to Le Pic Gris from Vallée du Rhône.”

Le Fooding (2013) “La trouvaille, c’est cet espace mixte et brut, music bar pour picoreurs de nuit, gastro cool pour bâfreurs de sensations, suprême bistroy pour les debout et les assis. La cuisine, griffée James Henry… est un manifeste de gastronomie populaire en vibration avec des pépites de choc… Sans trop se risquer, l’une des adresses de la nouvelle année.”

Le Figaro (2012 preview) “Barbe de trois jours, tatouages sur les biceps, T-shirt branché… James Henry a le look de son âge: 29 ans… Sa spécialité: cuisiner le cru, notamment les légumes. Il n’hésite pas à dynamiser les légumes oubliés. Sa force: sa jeunesse et sa fougue. Il ose des produits improbables et le résultat est bon. Son lieu jaune, accompagné de sa purée d’héliantis caramélisés en témoigne. Sa botte secrète: peu de produits à la fois. Pas d’assiettes fourre-tout mais des compositions simples, souvent concentrées autour de trois produits.”

Additional images

 

Sea scallops with cuttlefish, beets, walnuts, and horseradish

The dining room at Bones restaurant paris

Bones restaurant in Paris from chef James Henry suckling pig

The bar at Bones restaurant

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Blue Valentine Bistro Paris Photo Alec Lobrano

Blue Valentine

A sweetheart of a modern French bistro (open on Sundays!) with charming service and pedigreed ingredients.

Practical information

Address: 13 rue de la Pierre Levée, 75011
Nearest transport: Parmentier (3), Goncourt (11), République (3,5,8,9,11)
Hours: Closed Monday and Tuesday
Reservations: Book a couple days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 38 34 72
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: modern French
Website Facebook

Reviews of Interest

Not Drinking Poison in Paris (2014)“A clumsy attempt to ride contemporary restaurant trends without understanding any of them. Cocktail service, a magnum-only, mostly natural wine list, rock music, and a market menu helmed by a Japanese chef… The result is a pitifully inauthentic experience, one of the most embarrassing meals I’ve had in years. I felt like the intended target of seduction by a college freshman.”

Lindsay Tramuta (2014) “Otherwise recognizable bistro favorites – roasted pigeon, gigot d’agneau, etc. – are elevated to a more inventive register. The chef plays up pedigreed market-fresh ingredients from top purveyors like Terroirs d’Avenir and Coq St. Honoré for a meal of both unassuming elegance and refreshing originality.”

Alexander Lobrano (2014) “Cooking was so precise and unassumingly original that it would probably have seemed even more impressive in a fancier setting…”

Emmanuel Rubin (2014) “Blue Valentine est un restaurant où l’on se sent tout de suite bien. Les plats réalisés par le Chef Saïto Terumistu, un ancien du Mandarin Oriental à Paris, sont des œuvres d’art colorées, ponctuées de fleurs sauvages et d’herbes aromatiques.”

Le Fooding (2014) “L’endroit est un puissant antidépresseur… Notamment, un poulpe mariné, huile d’herbes, coulis de mangue, oignons en pickles et jeunes pousses ; un cube de poitrine de porc basque kintoa fièrement dressé, cuit à basse température, avec condiment pomme et polenta crémeuse ; et un mont-blanc que nous épargnâmes par crainte de surdose.”

Additional Images

Photo courtesy of Talya Vatman

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Au Passage by Meg Zimbeck

Au Passage

Small plates range from the standard charcuterie and now-obligatory burrata to more light and creative fare, based on great products from the likes of Terroirs d’Avenir and Joël Thiébault. The vibe is relaxed, the prices are right, and the wines are natural. Note: James Henry, the chef mentioned in most of these reviews, has left and is now at Bones.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 1 bis passage de Saint-Sebastien, 75011
Nearest transport: Saint-Sebastien Froissart (8)
Hours: Dinner only, Monday-Saturday; Closed Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 55 07 52
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Modern French, small plates & tapas
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

Emmanuel Rubin (2011) “Décor de zinc popu à classer d’urgence et petits plats goûtus, boutiqués avec énergie sous couvert de désinvolture.”

Wine Terroirs (2011) “All the wines here are chosen with care…The bottle wine-list is quite good for a restaurant of this size…”

Pierrick Jégu (2011) “…spécimen de bistrot local qui popote avec malice…Une bonne surprise derrière des airs de nonchalance.”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “A perfect example of one of the most welcome recent trends in Paris–relaxed and affordable wine bars serving interesting small plates and ‘natural’ or organic wines.”

Meg Zimbeck (2011) “…most of the small plates could have easily been starters at Spring – they featured pristine produce…and were bright with both color and acid. Flavor pairings were unexpected and, for the most part, successful… Prices are low, there enough tables and turnover to make booking a real possibility, and the menu changes every day. All this will probably add up to a habit.”

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Al Taglio by Meg Zimbeck

Al Taglio

It’s pizza by the kilo at this (vaguely) Roman-style spot. Bright lights, high stools and cheap wine by the carafe. Locations in Oberkampf and the upper Marais.

Practical information

Address: 2 bis rue Neuve Popincourt, 75011
Nearest transport: Parmentier (3)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 43 38 12 00
Average price for lunch: Less than 10€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Italian & pizza
Website

Additional locations

Address: 27 rue de Saintonge, 75003
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 09 50 48 84 06

Reviews of interest

Patricia Wells (2011) “I vote Al Taglio’s pizzas as some of the best in Paris. On a recent weekday we found mouth-watering Margherita; mozzarella and Parma ham; a version topped with truffle cream and thin discs of potato… The crust is thick and airy, the kind of chewy, long-rise dough my Italian mother used to make, and all ingredients are fresh.”

Gilles Pudlowski (2010) “La pâte d’apparence épaisse se révèle fine et croquante: la belle surprise du lieu! La garniture, elle, est plus inégale: tomate, poivrons piquants, fromage fumé ou nom, pomme de terre (pas assez cuite, donc peu digeste) et crème de truffe (pas très parfumée): c’est sympa, roboratif, généreux, plus sympathique, que savoureux…”

David Lebovitz (2010) “There are some really great pizza places now across Paris serving the real-deal, including Al Taglio…”

Barbra Austin (2010) “Roman style pizza, sold by the weight…wonderfully crisp on the bottom…it holds up to the generous toppings..”

Le Figaro (2009) “On aime beaucoup le concept futé de cette pizzeria pas comme les autres…”

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Photo by Meg Zimbeck

6036

Subtle, inexpensive Japanese bites from a former chef at Abri. Small plates in a small place with a nice list of natural wines. There are only 14 seats so be prepared to queue.

Practical information

Address: 82 rue Jean Pierre Timbaud, 75011
Nearest transport: Couronnes (2), Parmentier (3)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday; Open Tuesday-Thursday for dinner and Friday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance. The table d’hôte can also be reserved for a minimum of 10.
Telephone: 01 73 71 38 12
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Japanese
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

Not Drinking Poison in Paris (2014) “6036 bills itself as izakaya, or Japanese bar food, but this is a ruse: it’s actually a modest and sincere gastronomic experience, helmed by chef Haruka Casters, formerly sous-chef at 10ème arrondissement tasting-menu destination Abri.”

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Astier

This classic, checkered tablecloth bistro is famous for its cheese tray.

Practical information

Address: 44 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud
Nearest transport: Parmentier (3)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
Telephone: 01 43 57 16 35
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Website

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2011) “…we were thoroughly pleased with chunky block of house-made foie gras sprinkled with fleur de sel, with toasted brioche and chutney alongside. Warm brandade (whipped salted fish and potatoes) was a good rendition of the classic…”

Patricia Wells (2010) “A lovely, old-time bistro dinner in Paris last night at Astier, a longtime favorite… I opted for a starter of rabbit rillettes, moist, flavorful…The roasted codfish wrapped in ham and bathed in fresh white shell beans and a touch of tomato offered a lovely, light touch, and the dessert of poached quince hit the spot.”

Mark Bittman for The New York Times (2009) “The cheeses are splendid, but equally important is supporting the old tradition (before worries about sanitation overtook the world) at your table, where you can pick it to death until someone else asks for it…”

Le Figaro (2008) “Bistrot de tradition bien repris en mains…”

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Aux Deux Amis

A truly mixed crowd packs this Oberkampf wine bar, for natural wine and small plates.

Practical information

Address: 45 rue Oberkampf, 75011
Nearest transport: Oberkampf (5, 9)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 58 30 38 13
Average price for lunch:  10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Small plates & tapas

Reviews of interest

Isabelle Legeron (2014) “…crowded, jovial joint. The extensive list is entirely natural, with bottles bought directly from growers, and by-the-glass options are written up on old mirrors around the place.”

Bruno Verjus (2011) “Quelques betteraves croquantes assaisonnée de Gouda, des poireaux de fourneaux pas blaireaux…Et toujours, le meilleur spot pour prendre un verre le soir.”

Chroniques du Plaisir (2010) “Mais la surprise est dans l’assiette. On vous y sert une cuisine de produits, peu sophistiquée mais respectueuse, maligne et rigoureusement sélectionnée…D’autant plus que le liquide a du répondant (superbe Macon-Villages Domaine Valette frais et parfumé).”

Meg Zimbeck (2010) “…plates of food that look simple, are made with foodie approved ingredients (Thiebault veggies), and taste a little like love.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “A bargain prix-fix lunch gives way to a tapas-style dinner…white asparagus swimming in piquant olive oil; a burrata that could barely contain itself; beets with cod liver…and a plate of sweetbreads…”

John Talbott (2010) “…a real throwback bar/cafe…Incredibly good products, cooked well and simply – with no bullshit, at reasonable prices.”

Bruno Verjus (2010) “Petit café comptoir bénéficiant d’une agréable terrasse…la liste des vins nature couvre une vigneronne géographie du bon goût…Quelques tapas et autres pintxos … “

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bistrot paul bert tarte tatin

Bistrot Paul Bert

The menu at this perennial favorite is seasonally-minded, and a carnivore’s paradise. Not for the faint of heart, or appetite.

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 18 rue Paul Bert, 75011
Nearest transport: Faidherbe-Chaligny (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 72 24 01
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2011) “…rapport simple au produit et ce culte de la gourmandise. Même soin apporté à la terrine de campagne maison qu’aux envolées plus fines (pigeon rôti et petits légumes ; lotte au gingembre…) et aux incontournables, dont le mythique paris-brest.”

Bruno Verjus (2011) “Ici l’on tâte et gâte le gourmand. Alors dérive et file le temps au gré de nourritures terrestres. Les desserts, par leurs énormes tailles créent un rapport d’enfance – tendre prodigalité. Du bon, du très bon, du généreux, un véritable bis trop.”

Patricia Wells (2010) “Last night at one of my favorite little places –Le  Bistrot Paul Bert in the 11th — I adored the addition of thinly sliced raw green asparagus. I’ve always preferred to braise my asparagus, but the earthy flavors of these raw veggies changed my mind!… Worth the journey, for sure.”

David Lebovitz (2010) “…it’s hard to go wrong with anything here. You can order from the fixed price menu or split a Côte de Boeuf (steak for two, which they will not cook further than medium-rare), which includes house made frites.”

Meg Zimbeck via Girls’ Guide to Paris (2010) “For those who are sincere in their desire to taste classic bistro fare, there are few places better than Le Bistrot Paul Bert.”

Alexander Lobrano via David Lebovitz (2009) “This crowded and very popular place is one of my favorite bistros in Paris…”

Barbra Austin (2009) “This one is on many people’s list of favorites, including mine…”

François Simon “Un de mes adresses préférées. Gourmand, puissant avec une carte des vins à perdre la nacre de vos yeux…”

Dorie Greenspan (2008) “…one of my hands-down favorite bistros…”

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Cooperative Latte Cisternino

The source for some of the best burrata in town, and other products direct from Italy.

Practical information

Address: 46 rue du Faubourg Poissonière, 75010
Nearest transport: Poissonière (7)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 10 a.m. – 1:30 p.m. and 4:30 p.m.- 8 p.m.; closed Saturday and Sunday
Telephone: 01 47 70 30 36

Additional Locations

Address: 108 rue Saint Maur, 75011
Nearest transport: Parmentier (3)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 10 a.m. – 1:30 p.m. and 4:30 p.m.- 8 p.m.; closed Saturday and Sunday
Telephone: 01 43 38 54 54

Address: 17 rue Geoffroy Saint Hilaire, 75005
Nearest transport: Censier Daubenton (7)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 10 a.m. – 1:30 p.m. and 4:30 p.m.- 8 p.m.; closed Saturday and Sunday

Address: 37 rue Godot de Mauroy, 75009
Nearest transport: Havre-Caumartin (3, 9)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 10 a.m. – 1:30 p.m. and 4:30 p.m.- 8 p.m.; closed Saturday and Sunday
Telephone: 06 74 91 66 58

 

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servan

Le Servan

Tatiana Levha, formerly at L’Arpège and L’Astrance, and her sister Katia have opened up this light, airy bistro with a central bar & hand painted ceiling. The short list of offerings changes each day, but expect seasonally driven cuisine inflected with international touches like tandoori spiced beurre blanc atop asparagus or harissa to spice up the line caught hake. Dessert left room for improvement, but otherwise Le Servan had reasonably priced, expertly executed dishes and friendly service in a beautiful space.

Practical information

Address: 32 rue Saint Maur, 75011
Nearest transport: Rue Saint Maur (3), Père Lachaise (2,3), Voltaire (9)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Telephone: 01 55 28 51 82
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: modern French

Our best efforts were made to insure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it to parisbymouth@gmail.com

Reviews of Interest

  • Thierry Richard (2014) “Dans l’assiette, le talent est là, et à haute dose. On joue sur la subtilité des accords traités sur le fil. Asperges blanches, crème tandoori et sauge frite, sur des cuissons impeccables, des confrontations finaudes, une belle présentation, du floral en fil conducteur et de la délicatesse à tous les étages. Nul doute que la jeune chef ira loin.”
  • François Simon (2014) “Coup de coeur du mois… un vrai coup de gong! Nourritures frontales, vives, sexy…”
  • Caroline Mignot (2014) “Le tout résonne avec beaucoup de simplicité et fonctionne bien à l’heure du déjeuner. Par contre, pas un morceau de tissus à l’horizon ou quelque chose qui pourrait absorber le bruit, du coup, s’il y a des tables de bons vivants à côté de vous (comme c’était le cas pour moi ce jour là), ça part beaucoup dans les aigus et ça tonne dans tous les sens.”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2014) “The lucid way she composes her dishes is based on a clear love of the produce she cooks with and the impressive battery of technical skills that inform her cooking, which becomes personal and original when she sautés cockles in pungent fish sauce and garnishes them with fiery bird peppers and basil.”
  • Emmanuel Rubin (2014) “En malice tectonique, des compositions «fric-frac» pleines de touches et d’habiles épices qui vous font en bouche ces fameux «baisers pointus comme un accent aigu».”
  • John Talbott (2014) “The best prix-qualité ratio of the year 2014.”
  • Not Drinking Poison in Paris (2014) “Almost every component of my meal at Le Servan was sterling, a tour de force of talent and good taste.”

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Yard, Paris

Yard

The former construction yard turned bistro has been around Père Lachaise for years, but the arrival of chefs Shaun Kelly and Eleni Sapera, formerly of Au Passage and Bones, is a breath of fresh air. Expect a lengthy list of natural wines, modern product driven small plates, and a warm welcome from owner Jane Drotter.

Practical information

Address: 6 Rue de Mont-Louis, 75011
Nearest transport: Philippe Auguste (2)
Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday; Open for lunch & dinner Tuesday-Friday; Lunch only on Monday
Reservations: No reservations accepted for lunch, Book a few days in advance for dinner
Telephone: 01 40 09 70 30
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: modern French
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Reviews of Interest

Caroline Mignot (2014) “Un air de taverne, des cuistots qui s’agitent derrière le passe-plat, je n’ai pas réussi à déterminer exactement quoi, mais il y a dans cette atmosphère quelque chose inconnu de Paris.”

Jerome Berger (2014) “Une cuisine de façade.”

Charles Patin O’Coohoon (2014) “Le chef australien Shaun Kelly réussit le mélange des genres français et Commonwealth dans l’assiette.”

John Talbott (2014) “Another great prix-qualité joint.”

Not Drinking Poison in Paris (2014) “Under its previous chef, Fabrice Mellado… Yard had a reputation as a pleasant brunch environment. Now, with Kelly and Sapera turning out a starkly sophisticated market menu and a generously priced natural wine list by Drotter, it’s poised to become something more.”

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James Henry

James Henry to show his Bones

The rumors are true: James Henry, who made a name for himself at Au Passage, will be opening a new restaurant in early December.

Bones – the name was decided upon last night – will combine wine bar and restaurant in a single space at 43 rue Godefroy Caviagnac, enriching what is already a gastronomically blessed corner of the 11th (see also RinoSeptimeCheZ alineRetro’bottegaLa Pulperia and Bistrot Paul Bert).

The wine bar up front will be a no-reservations space featuring elevated snacks and small plates: oysters shucked before your eyes, fish carpaccio sliced to order, and mounds of charcuterie. Beyond a few window seats, Henry envisions this as a casual and standing-room only space.

The restaurant, on an elevated platform in the back, has room for around 25 seats. The precise menu format and pricing are still evolving, but a few things are clear: it will be affordable (35-45 euros), and it will be offal. Not exclusively offal, mind you, but Henry’s long fascination with the odd bits will be given free reign to flourish here at Bones. He wants the freedom to challenge himself and his diners with more adventurous fare – poached brain, horse heart, etc. – but will likely have options for timid eaters, too.

Another aspect which may set Bones apart from the pack is their desire to produce in-house as many ingredients as possible. Like he did at a previous restaurant in Tasmania, Henry plans to churn his own butter, produce his own vinegar, and bake bread from his own sourdough starter. He looks at the cellar and sees a space for curing meats. A cold-smoker is going into the courtyard.

The wine, unsurprisingly, will be on the “extreme” side of the natural wine spectrum. Henry cites Pierre Jancou and his list at Vivant Cave as inspiration, and hopes to bring in wines from beyond the hexagon.  The white marble covering the walls at Jancou’s bar will also be seen on the bar at Bones, along with polished concrete on the floors and vintage (cracked) white tiles on the walls.

Stay tuned for updates, and we’ll let you know closer to time when they announce an opening date.

 

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Le Petit Cheval de Manège (CLOSED)

NOW CLOSED A ruby-red corner bistro, serving a well-priced market menu by chef/owner Xavier Thierry, a vet of Lapérouse and Lucas Carton.

Practical information

Address: 5 rue Froment, 75011 – NOW CLOSED


View a map of all of our restaurants here

Reviews of interest

  • Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012) “une vraie pépite de quartier où…une cuisine d’ardoise, vive et volubile…”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2011) “Thierry’s food was well-sourced, original and assiduously well-cooked in terms of timing, texture and heat at the table…great for casual dining and a good place to see just how cosmopolitan contemporary French cooking has become…”
  • John Talbott (2011) “He’s got talent. Everybody in Paris these days, says they do a cuisine du marche, but this guy really walks the walk…”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to insure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

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Les Trois Seaux by Aaron Ayscough

Les Trois Seaux

A no-frills bistro with a great wine list.

Practical information

Address: 58 rue de la Fontaine au Roi, 75011
Nearest transport: Goncourt (11)
Hours: Open for dinner only Tuesday-Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 09 54 27 86 86
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a3c94adfc7bd98d6a&ll=48.868272,2.373819&spn=0.013861,0.038581&z=15 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: market-based cooking, comfort food, superior wine list
Type of crowd: hipsters, bobos, neighborhood locals
Interior: bare bones & minimal
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • John Talbott (2011) “Go?  For the wine, charcuterie and cheese, yes; but keep it simple!”
  • Aaron Ayscough (2011) “I can only hope everyone else in the neighborhood finds the basic ideas as charming as I do: natural wines, informal service…Les Trois Seaux will be serving more bistro-style fare…”
  • Le Fooding (2011) “Du coup, la carte des 3 Seaux (5 entrées et 5 plats) fait aussi cours de géo ! Les navets sont du Pardailhan, les carottes de sable du Languedoc et les champignons du Val d’Oise, quand l’agneau est du Limousin…”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

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Rino by Meg Zimbeck

Rino (CLOSED)

Giovanni Passerini made a name for Rino with his modern market cooking and handmade pastas. He sold Rino in late 2013. NOW CLOSED

Practical information

Address: 46 rue Trousseau 75011 – NOW CLOSED

[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a3c90f83e2b8a9549&ll=48.852546,2.379141&spn=0.013865,0.038581&z=15 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.

Reviews of interest

  • François Simon (2010) “…une table agréable et valeureuse.”
  • Barbra Austin (2010) “a parade of very pretty plates… a fantastic escabeche of rouget with white asparagus…sardine ravioli in fennel consommé…a thick, trembling cut of cod with pil pil sauce..”
  • Meg Zimbeck (2010) “I was delighted…There’s something really fun about looking at a menu and having no idea about the taste of the proposed dishes.”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2010) “Simple, sincere, delicious, intense, this was one of the best meals I’ve eaten in a longtime…”
  • Phyllis Flick (2010) “…daring market-based cuisine is light without the use of heavy sauces, using the best of seasonal ingredients including stunning vegetables…”
  • John Talbott (2010) “Great fish, wonderful chef and waitstaff, otherwise OK.”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “Une cuisine d’entre slam et ring, tout à la fois énergique, dans l’élan, dans l’influx, épatante à jongler entre le naturel et le juteux…”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

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