- John Talbott reports that “the game is afoot” at Le Repaire de Cartouche…
- Alec Lobrano says that Le Métropolitain is “exactly what a neighborhood bistro should be…
- Patricia Wells has no plans to shoot Christopher Saintagne. For now…
- Talbott calls the Café des Musées his bistro of the moment, delivering food that is as “fine and as well-priced as one can find in Paris.” He cites as evidence the €13 lunch special, including a creamy nettle soup and confit de canard with “melt-in-your-mouth white beans.” [John Talbott's Paris]
- David joins the chorus singing praise for Septime, where his €26 lunch included a glass of natural wine, a crispy caramelized pork belly strip that was “one of the best things I’ve eaten in a while” and two “really perfect slices” of oozy-ripe French cheese. The Chez Panisse alum is also happy to see that chef Bertrand Grébaut “doesn’t seem to want to (or need to) resort to any culinary tricks; he’s just using good ingredients sensibly.” [David Lebovitz]
Hearsay
- In a post about recreating a topping from Pizza Chic, Ann Mah says that a sibling branch of the left-bank pizzeria will open this week in the Marais: Look for Grazie at 91 bd Beaumarchais. [Ann Mah]
Heresy?
- Bruno Verjus suggests that eating at the Plaza Athénée is like traveling through an idea of french cuisine, the one that Ducasse sees from the windows of airplanes and various towers around the world. “One doesn’t taste the veal, but the idea of the veal” as interpreted by the chef who wants to protect the idea of French cuisine. [Food Intelligence]
Alain Ducasse’s flagship at the Plaza Athénée remains, quite simply, one of THE bastions of French gastronomy.
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A Year in the Mouth
