It’s so nice when a restaurant delivers more than they need to, more than you expect to receive. When looking at a chalkboard menu filled with cheap small plates, one rarely hopes for anything more than simple products. But here at Au Passage, your 8€ octopus dish has undergone three days of preparation. There’s a quiet ethos at work beneath the blaring bustle of the dining room: staples are homemade (butter, bread, stock, charcuterie), vegetables and fish receive priority attention, and meat is served in a nose-to-tail spirit with every last offaly bit turning up on the menu. So much heart and creativity for so little money. Au Passage is not for everyone, nor is it trying to be. If the loud music, frenzied service, and worn-out interior turn some people away, that leaves more space for me.
The team behind Au Passage is opening a new wine bar called Martin on Saturday night November 29.
Au Passage barman Loïc (family name Martin) is leading the charge with backing from Au Passage co-owners Jean-Charles & Audrey and with menu supervision by Au Passage chef Edward Delling-Williams.
James Henry, the Australian chef who made a name for himself at Au Passage, will open Bones in early December.