Collins gets boozy at the opera, Gaudry shares a secret, Richard finds a bargain, and Pudlo finds Mark Singer…
Aaron Ayscough encounters “filthy-risky” wine and horse tartare at Aux Deux Amis, Bruno Verjus calls Passage 53 a must-eat, and Gaudry reveals that Cédric Cassanova is set to open two new places. These stories, plus dumb cupcakes and murky ravioli in today’s Bite…
- Bruno has an astrophysical-religious experience at L’Astrance, where he sees stars, satellites, and the “transubstantiation of duck blood into cherry juice.” [Food Intelligence]
- After tucking into a plate of “succulent” jambon de Paris, an “excellent” tartare, and a “lovely” berry tart, Lobrano concludes that Le Petit Trianon “is the type of great-looking, reasonably priced casual restaurant that is in much too short supply in Paris.” [Alexander Lobrano]
- François-Régis Gaudry’s meal the new Chardenoux des Pres was marred only by a too-toothy riz au lait. Otherwise, he has nothing but praise for Cyril Lignac’s latest address, from the starter of an oeuf mollet with spinach, girolles and foam –”crazy enough” — to the main course of “downy cod, perfectly cooked, on a bed of explosive, sugar-charged peas.” [Et Toque!]
- Bruno wants you to have lunch at Aux Deux Amis. “The springtime products, practice and wisdom” of chef Mathieu Perez offer a “palette for the senses,” he says, after a plate of cucumber tossed with some serious double cream and sliced herring. [Food Intelligence]
The room is retro but the food is fresh at this Oberkampf wine bar, where a truly mixed crowd quenches their thirst with natural wine and nibbles pedigreed ingredients, served without pretense.
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