Tag Archives: bistros

Chez Marcel by John Talbott

Chez Marcel

A new owner has resuscitated this old time bistro, serving updated Lyonnais classics.

Practical information

Address: 7 rue Stanislas, 75006
Nearest transport: Notre Dame des Champs (12) or Vavin (4)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday-Friday; closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 45 48 29 94
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, Lyonnais, French bistro
Special attributes: open Monday

Reviews of interest

Thierry Richard (2013) “Voilà le genre de table qui fait aimer Paris des américains. Un restaurant dans son jus dont le calendrier des appétits est resté bloqué quelque part dans les années 60…En cuisine, Pierre laisse aux commandes le chef qui remuait les casseroles dans l’arrière-salle depuis vingt-cinq ans et perpétue, à quelques plats près, le menu labellisé 1961, tapé à la machine, qu’il retrouve dans les archives du restaurant. Ce sera donc ambiance filets de hareng, escargots de Bourgogne, quenelles de brochet, tripes et coq au vin. Une cuisine de répertoire bistrotier, loin du manger-correct de l’époque et délicieusement forte en gueule.”

François-Régis Gaudry (2012) “tabliers de sapeur d’une impeccable blondeur croustillante, quenelles parfaitement dodues et gratinées, saucissons chauds, terrines de campagne… Quitte à lui glisser à l’oreille sa propre recette de tarte à la praline (divine) et à l’entraîner vers la trahison d’une salade de vrais champignons de Paris avec des dés d’un vrai jambon de Paris, assaisonnée de crème et de ciboulette….”

John Talbott (2012) “We both go for classics…Lyon sausage with potatoes – sausage she deems “dry”, I think “flavorless”, potatoes bathed in water, even with mustard, barely finish 1/2; she, eggs mayo, banal, unimaginative, puhlease!”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012) “Le plus charmeur des come-back du printemps!”

Louloucam by John Talbott

Louloucam

The chef at this neighborhood bistro worked at La Tour d’Argent and Le Meurice.

Practical information

Address: 264 rue du Faubourg Saint Martin, 75010
Nearest transport: Stalingrad (2, 5, 7)
Hours: Tuesday-Friday, lunch and dinner; Saturday, dinner only; Sunday brunch; closed Monday
Reservations: last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 40 34 76 87
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: French bistro
Special attributes: open Sunday

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “…a very sincere new bistro with an intriguing two-speed menu, or a mix of French classics and some clever modern dishes…a great neighborhood bolt-hole and a fine coda to those who’d doom-say the French kitchen.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012) “Env. 15-25 € au déjeuner, menu à 31 € au dîner. Linguine aux couteaux: avenant. Volaille bourbonnaise à la crème: bien étoffée. Choux à la crème: gonflés.”

John Talbott (2012) “The 31 € 3-course menu looked great; lots of tasty choices…my new friend had the Bourbonnaise chicken with white sauce and I had (after ensuring it was a thick not thin slice) a piece of veal liver a la Lyonnaise; both were nice, but strangely again, both were lukewarm and came with nicely toasted thin slices of potato…”

Anne-Laure Pham – L’Express (2012) “…un simple et bluffant poireau vinaigrette à la citronnelle, puis un irréprochable foie de veau à la lyonnaise…”

 

Chicken consommé with foie gras and wild mushrooms at Vivant Table in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Vivant Table

Pierre Jancou has relaunched Vivant Table with chef Sota (ex-Troisgros, Robuchon, Stella Maris & Toyo) at the helm and more ambitious menus at 29/39€ at lunch and 55€ at dinner. There’s also a carte blanch menu with 7-8 dishes (no choice). The wine remains all-natural, but the cooking is better than ever. Update: Jancou sold Vivant Table and Vivant Cave in December 2013 to the owners of Racines.

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L'Epi Dupin via www.epidupin.com

L’Epi Dupin

L’Epi Dupin has been attracting a mix of loyal locals and tourists since it opened in 1995.

Practical information

Address: 11 rue Dupin, 75006
Nearest transport: Sevres-Babylone (10, 12)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Friday; lunch, Tuesday-Friday; closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually O.K.
Telephone: 01 42 22 64 56
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: market-based cooking, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Caroline Mignot (2009) “L’ardoise arrive, pas une suggestion qui ne fasse pas envie…Crevettes à peine saisies, au coeur encore fondant et “rosé”, enrobées de quelques grains de sésame…Velouté de Saint-Jacques incroyablement lisse…Le dessert parle de lui-même…”

 

 

Racines 2

Practical information

Address: 39 rue de l’Arbre Sec, 75001
Nearest transport: Louvre-Rivoli (1) or Les Halles (4)
Hours: Open for lunch & dinner Monday-Friday plus Saturday dinner; closed Saturday lunch & all day Sunday
Reservations: book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 42 60 77 34
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: classic French
Special attributes: prestige ingredients, open Monday

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2012) “The ‘menu’ is a very reasonable 29 E for 3 courses, but a la carte we’re dealing with double that, and that’s before liquids.  But I rather liked the ‘menu’…a perfectly cooked duck breast with a ton of vegetables…a chocolate mousse…All were much above average…”

Thierry Richard (2012) “La cuisine y est dans le droit fil de ce qui avait fait le succès de son jumeau : des produits de belle extraction, à peine transformés, soigneusement assaisonnés et aux cuissons toujours millimétrées. Mais il y a là un je ne sais quoi en plus qui fait claquer les doigts…”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “this restaurant feels very out of place in the rue de l’Arbre Sec…more alarming than the decor or the crowd, however, was the menu. For starters, it was short and difficult, because not only was it rather unappealing, it was also very expensive…if I want to spend 70 Euros on a meal, I can think of a lot of much better places to do so than Racines 2.”

François Simon – Le Figaro (2011) “Voilà des plats travaillant a minima, juste dans le souffle et l’élan…Attention, Racines 2 ne fait pas de la grande cuisine, juste une cuisine de produit, laissant passer celui-ci comme la muleta du torero. Certains risquent d’être déçus et je les entends d’ici : “Ah, ce n’est que ça ?!” Réponse: ce n’est que cela.”

Le Figaro (2011) “…cuisine toujours ciselée, nourrie aux beaux produits…généreuses terrines, salade, comme un tableau, de racines croquantes et arc-en-ciel de l’incontournable Annie Bertin, tendre côte de cochon, fondante tarte au citron…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2011)”…un bon spécimen de bistrot urbain nouveau…repas bien découplé entre petits plats de spontanéité et vins nature…Vitello tonnato : tranché un peu trop charnu mais plaisant. Poitrine de cochon, cocos de Paimpol et jus de cresson : beau gras bien relancé par des cocos bien en verve…”

 

 

Monsieur le Prince by Barbra Austin

Monsieur le Prince

NOW CLOSED. A bistro with contemporary touches, in the old Chez Maitre Paul space.

Practical information

Address: 12 rue Monsieur le Prince, 75006

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2010) “They have a plat du jour for 14 E…Ordering off the carte though, is a whole other matter – I did the latter and was socked 38 E, now granted for much better (IMHO) and more inventive stuff…bonbons of oysters with sorrel sauce…a chunk of beef cheek that was so-so but had a great intense black sauce and wonderful teeny/tiny carrots, small potatoes and green sprigs…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “…une jeunesse franchement habile à éclaircir l’affaire sans totalement se départir des conforts patrimoniaux.”

Barbra Austin – Girls’ Guide to Paris (2010) “The menu is mostly classic bistro fare, updated with a few twists…cod with Camembert sauce is unexpected, and steamed daurade gets a dose of flavor from clams and briny seaweed. For nostalgic locals there is an homage to the old tenants, a cassolette of chicken with morels and vin jaune façon Chez Maître Paul.”

 

 

 

Les Bistronomes by Barbra Austin

Les Bistronomes

The menu here appears classic enough (barring a salmon tataki), but the presentations are full of surprises.

Practical information

Address: 34 rue de Richelieu, 75001
Nearest transport: Pyramides (7, 14)
Hours: Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually O.K.
Telephone: 01 42 60 59 66
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French bistro
Special attributes: open Monday

Trusted reviews

Caroline Mignot (2011) “Nouveau bistrot qui cherche un brin de sophistication…Asperges…avec leur vinaigrette à la truffe qui me donne surtout en bouche un goût de foie gras. Mâche assaisonnée à la même vinaigrette, c’est vif et gourmand, ça se laisse bien déguster…Le café crème à 5 €, on n’apprécie pas et le soir à la carte, ça douille un peu…”

Barbra Austin (2011) “…professionalism is palpable in the welcome, the simple elegance of the room, and on the plate…pâté en croute, and lentils with Morteau sausage, both presented with an elegance that flouted the robustness of these hearty classics.”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “…a superb and stunningly professional new bistro…pâté en croûte with pickled baby vegetables was a deeply flavored slab of ground pork with a knob of foie gras and a chunk of rare duck breast in a beautifully made pastry crust…lentil salad was garnished with smoky slices of Morteau sausage and a nosegay of mesclun almost invisibly enlivened by a mustard-and-red-wine vinaigrette.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2011)  “Pâté en croûte et ses légumes pickles: bon ton. Filet de pigeon rôti en croûte, chou braisé au jus gras: beau travail mais le chou quasi invisible. Mille et une feuilles de banane, flambé au rhum vieux: pas désagréable mais sans liant.” Rating: 2/4 hearts.

John Talbott (2011) “…the scallop soup…did not contain pieces of scallops but rather was a beautifully cuisinarted/mixed/pulverized cream of scallop essence…I had the pied de cochon parmentier…here the pigs’ feet were in a sort of rectangular…the potatoes were not mashed but reduced to almost a cream, most different and delightful.”

Philippe Toinard – A Nous Paris (2011) “Le pied de cochon est effectivement désossé puis recomposé avant d’être entouré d’une crépinette pour être présenté façon andouillette…. remarquable.” Rating: 4/5 dots.

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2011) “…de tout ce qu’on a goûté, il n’y avait rien, absolument rien à jeter. Ni le velouté de butternut superbe, mousseux, légèrement musqué, caressé par une écume de lard fermier et un trait d’huile de pépin de courge ni le poulet des Dombes, son moelleux grandiose qui n’a rien à envier aux volailles de Bresse, sa sauce crémée à l’estragon…”

 

 

Playtime logo

Playtime

Daikon, wasabi, parmesan, sesame, curry, arugula, sesame — the ingredients are all over the map at this retro-neo bistro in the 10th.

Practical information

Address: 5 rue des Petits-Hôtels, 75010
Nearest transport: Gare de l’Est (4, 5, 7)
Hours: Closed Saturday, Sunday, and Monday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 44 79 03 98
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a3c6c97e47acff291&ll=48.877417,2.356052&spn=0.013858,0.038581&z=15 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 20-34 €
Average price for dinner: 20-34 €
Style of cuisine: Fusion
Special attributes: open Monday
Type of crowd: hipsters, foodies, bobos, neighborhood locals
Interior: quirky & playful
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • John Talbott (2011) “The exterior looked like a thousand places in the 1950’s and the interior is “wow-ee,” evoking Jacques Tati’s ‘Playtime’ sets, circa mid-1960’s…innovative cooking, nifty decor, fun choices and oh so easy prices.”
  • Caroline Mignot (2010) “Un décor 50’s, pile dans la tendance annoncée, Mad Men, fashion, design…Un melting pot d’ingrédients, grec, turc, japonais, qui se perdent un peu dans le superflu. En fait, j’ai été déçue, j’y goûtais de la confusion et des plats malhabiles.”
  • Pudlo (2010) “Côté cuisine…de mets ménagers un brin fusion, mitonnés au gré du marché et de la saison. Les menus sont gentils tout pleins, l’unique serveur gambade, sourit, raconte, mais à peine.”
  • François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2010) “Bien sûr, certains plats s’emmêlent un peu les fuseaux, comme ce saumon un rien jetlagué… Mais on préfère encore l’échappée belle d’une vraie cuisine d’auteur… au train-train du énième néobistrot copiant des banalités sur l’ardoise du voisin.”
  • Bruno Verjus (2010) “Une cuisine en devenir, un lieu très Fooding.”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

L'Agrume by Barbra Austin

L’Agrume

This contemporary bistro was seriously hyped in its early days, thanks in part to the 37€, five-course menu and a young chef with a great resumé, and perhaps the novelty of a middle-of-nowhere location, deep in the fifth.

Practical information

Address: 15 rue des Fossés St. Marcel, 75005
Nearest transport: Les Gobelins (7) or St. Marcel (5)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 43 31 86 48
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.fr/maps/ms?hl=fr&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a35324f0b5a1d85ee&ll=48.838952,2.356189&spn=0.006934,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, good for solo dining, open Monday
Type of crowd: foodies, neighborhood locals
Interior: bare bones & minimal
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • Meg Zimbeck (2011) “L’Agrume is a well-intentioned and often delicious neighborhood restaurant where you can eat five courses for €37. The service is kind, and the interior is entirely without pretension. It should not be a destination for food-minded visitors to Paris.”
  • Phyllis Flick (2010) “…but it’s already getting lots of press, and with good reason.”
  • François Simon (2010) “Vous allez adorer cette adresse toute simple, dépouillée, c’est comme un javelot savoureux.”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2010) “…the food exhibits all of the astonishing culinary discipline that makes me a doggedly perennial optimist…”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2010) “Jolie cuisine d’éclaircie et d’émotion sincèrement désarmante…”
  • John Talbott (2010) “I take the lunch formula – starting with a trio of starters –  shrimps with seaweed and ginger (delicious), sliced chicken with celery remoulade… and a veloute of leeks…with some infused olive oil it was heavenly”.
  • Caroline Mignot (2010) “Une cuisine au jour le jour que le chef veut résolument fraîche et légère, des produits extra frais, des cuissons sur la longueur et la plénitude (il s’agit de ne surtout pas bousculer les chairs), une cuisine qui a tout compris…”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

Flottes O.Trement via brasserie-flottes.fr

Flottes Ô.Trement

Flottes O.Trement via brasserie-flottes.fr
You enter through the brasserie to get to this luxe bistro upstairs. There are sub-50€ menus, but à la carte prices are steep.

Practical information

Address: 2 rue Cambon, 75001
Nearest transport: Concorde (1, 8, 12)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 61 31 15
Website

View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: valet parking
Type of crowd: style hounds, neighborhood locals
Interior: elegant and luxe
Atmosphere: formal

Reviews of interest

  • Alexander Lobrano (2010) “It’s a good looking place…The welcome we received was truly courtly… If the gelee of my oeuf lacked the punch of beef bouillon with a little Madeira that I’m always looking for, the egg itself was correctly runny, and my blanquette de veau was tender and full of flavor…If it weren’t so expensive, I might even be tempted to go back…”
  • John Talbott (2010) “…major league prices…I had a blanquette of veal where the toughness of the veal was only saved, in fact enhanced, by a terrific sauce with tiny marinated mushroom caps; I made good use of the good bread for finishing it…”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2010) “Huîtres n° 2 spéciales poivre de Madagascar, saucisse grillée : justement, le poivre, quelques grains en moins et c’eut été parfait. Blanquette de veau aux légumes : d’ores et déjà, l’une des rares qui se tiennent à Paris…”

 

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to insure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

Le Bistrot du 20ème by John Talbott

Le Bistrot du 20e

An old-fashioned bistro, open every day.

Practical information

Address: 203 ave Gambetta, 75020
Nearest transport: St. Fargeau (3bis)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 40 31 86 07
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.fr/maps/ms?hl=fr&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a3525ae0d9757d69c&ll=48.873231,2.40478&spn=0.00693,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, open Sunday, open Monday
Type of crowd: neighborhood locals
Interior: quirky & playful
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • John Talbott (2010) “…old bistro cooking with modern sensibilities…”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2010) “…quelques plats débonnaires parviennent à incarner en amusant l’estomac dans un quartier régulièrement inscrit aux appétits absents.”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

Rino by Meg Zimbeck

Rino (CLOSED)

Giovanni Passerini made a name for Rino with his modern market cooking and handmade pastas. He sold Rino in late 2013. NOW CLOSED

Practical information

Address: 46 rue Trousseau 75011 – NOW CLOSED

Reviews of interest

  • François Simon (2010) “…une table agréable et valeureuse.”
  • Barbra Austin (2010) “a parade of very pretty plates… a fantastic escabeche of rouget with white asparagus…sardine ravioli in fennel consommé…a thick, trembling cut of cod with pil pil sauce..”
  • Meg Zimbeck (2010) “I was delighted…There’s something really fun about looking at a menu and having no idea about the taste of the proposed dishes.”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2010) “Simple, sincere, delicious, intense, this was one of the best meals I’ve eaten in a longtime…”
  • Phyllis Flick (2010) “…daring market-based cuisine is light without the use of heavy sauces, using the best of seasonal ingredients including stunning vegetables…”
  • John Talbott (2010) “Great fish, wonderful chef and waitstaff, otherwise OK.”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “Une cuisine d’entre slam et ring, tout à la fois énergique, dans l’élan, dans l’influx, épatante à jongler entre le naturel et le juteux…”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

Le Bis du Severo by John Talbott

Le Bis du Severo (Closed)

Le Bis du Severo by John Talbott
Les Bis du Severo was sold in 2011, there is still a restaurant here (Le Bis), but it is no longer affiliated with nearby Le Severo.

Practical information

Address: 16 rue des Plantes, 75014
Nearest transport: Alesia (4)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Friday; lunch, Tuesday-Saturday; closed Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 40 44 73 09
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a3886506aedd66f7e&ll=48.831504,2.324188&spn=0.006935,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, bistro
Special attributes: prix-fixe, prestige ingredients, carnivore’s delight, open Monday
Type of crowd: foodies, neighborhood locals
Interior: charming & traditional
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • John Talbott (2010) “…we had the cote de boeuf for two; he likes his rare, and me blue, but somehow it came out perfectly for us both and he got the bone to chew on… Frites, which defeat most chefs here and in America, were quite good.”
  • Le Fooding (2010) “Même maison que Le Severo tout court, le Bis fait office de plan B quand le premier est complet (ce qui est souvent le cas…)… les produits sont les mêmes, apprêtés avec une égale rigueur janséniste.”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.