Tag Archives: bread

Jacques Genin millefeuille

Our Guide to Paris Bakeries & Pastry Shops

Here you’ll find all of our bakery and pastry listings, organized by arrondissement. Some of them do only pastry, some do only bread, but most do both. Click on the name for more information.

75001

Angelina
Eric Kayser 
Hugo & Victor
Jean-Paul Hévin
Julien
La Bague de Kenza
Pierre Hermé

75002

Eric Kayser 
Gaetan Romp
Régis Colin
Stohrer

75003

134 RdT 
Café Pouchkine
Gerard Mulot
Jacques Genin
La Bague de Kenza
Meert
Pain de Sucre 
Poilane 
Popelini

75004

Carette
Christian Vabret

Comme à Lisbonne
Dalloyau
La Maison du Chou 
L’Éclair de Génie
Julien
Pierre Hermé 
Sacha Finkelsztajn
Stephane Henry

75005

Carl Marletti
Eric Kayser 
Gregory Rénard
La Parisienne
Moisan
Pâtisserie Ciel
Sadaharu Aoki

75006

Bread & Roses
Colorova
Dalloyau
Eric Kayser 
Gerard Mulot
Jean-Paul Hévin
Ladurée
La Maison du Chou 
Meert
Pâtisserie Viennoise
Pierre Hermé
Poilâne
Sadaharu Aoki
Thierry Renard
Un Dimanche à Paris

75007

Dalloyau
Des Gateaux et du Pain 
Eric Kayser 
Gosselin
Gregory Rénard 
Hugo & Victor
Jean-Marc Touchard
Jean-Paul Hévin
Julien
Pâtisserie des Rêves
Stéphane Secco

75008

Bread & Roses
Dalloyau
Eric Kayser 
Fauchon
Jean-Pierre Cohier
La Petite Rose
Ladurée
Pierre Hermé 
Raoul Maeder

75009

Arnaud Delmontel
Café Pouchkine
Dalloyau
Le Grenier à Pain Lafayette
La Prairie de Coquelicot
Ladurée
Le Valentin
Maison Landemeine
Sébastien Gaudard

75010

Du Pain et des Idées
Helmut Newcake
Liberté par Benoît Castel
Tholoniat

75011

Boulangerie Audou
Eric Kayser 
La Bague de Kenza
La Pâtisserie by Cyril Lignac
Thank You, My Deer

75012

Blé Sucré
Boulangerie Bazin
Boulangerie d’Isa
Maison Cailleaud

75013

Eric Kayser 
Gerard Mulot
Laurent Duchêne

75014

Dominique Saibron
Eric Kayser 
Au Paradis du Gourmand

75015

Aux Merveilleux de Fred
Boulangerie Pichard 
Dalloyau
Des Gateaux et du Pain
Eran Mayer
Eric Kayser 
Gregory Rénard 
La Bague de Kenza
Le Grenier de Félix
Pierre Hermé
Poilâne
Pottier
Sadaharu Aoki

75016

Aux Merveilleux de Fred
Carette
Desgranges
Eric Kayser 
Guillaume Delcourt
L’Éclair de Génie
La Pompadour
La Petite Marquise
Morgan Gantier
Pâtisserie des Rêves
Pierre Hermé
Xavier Doué

75017

Arnaud Delmontel
Aux Merveilleux de Fred
Boulangerie Damiani
Eric Kayser 
L’Ecureuil
Maison Lohezic
Les Saveurs de Wagram

75018

Arnaud Delmontel
Arnaud Larher
Au Duc de la Chapelle
Au Levain d’Antan
Bob’s Bake Shop
Boulangerie Alexine
Boulangerie Mauvieux
Boulangerie Raphaëlle
Coquelicot
Gontran Cherrier
Le Fournil du Village
Le Grenier à Pain
La Parisienne

75019

Boulangerie Véronique Mauclerc
La Boulang’Eury

75020

À la Flute Gana
Les Saveurs du 20eme
Philippe Bogner

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Best Baguette in Paris

2014 Winner for Paris’ Best Baguette

For the second year in a row, the winner of the Best Baguette in Paris competition comes from the 14th arrondissement. Congratulations to Antonio Teixeira from the Délices du Palais for placing first in the annual Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris!

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Protect the Endangered Baguette

french baguettes by meg zimbeck

A campaign to promote carb consumption, specifically bread, has launched in France. Apparently, baguette consumption has dropped dramatically from 3 baguettes per person, per day in the early 1900s to a single baguette in the 1970s, to just half a baguette today.

Bread lobbyists (those exist) from l’Observatoire du pain have commissioned graffiti, 7,000 billboards and bread bags imprinted with a slogan reminding customers to purchase their daily loaf.

The Telegraph reports that one selling point of the campaign is to remind shoppers that they can minimize snacking and lose weight by eating more bread as it is “slow-burning carbohydrates and improves satiety.” Just imagine how slow-burning your carbohydrates will be when you start singlehandedly consuming 3 baguettes each day.

We care about your wellness. And we all need to do our part to save the baguette from extinction, so here’s our list of Five Great Baguettes.

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Grand Prix de la Baguette de la Ville de Paris

Behind the Scenes at Paris’ Best Baguette Competition

I’m what you might call a bread enthusiast. Not as bonkers as Steven Kaplan, the bread professor who showed Conan O’Brien how bread-making could be a “sexual act,” but a serious enthusiast nonetheless. I have Kaplan’s book, along with Nancy Silverton’s tome, on my nightstand. I teach tourists how to tell good baguette from bad. And I’ve been following the annual competition to name Paris’ Best Baguette with great interest for many years.

Imagine, then, how excited I was to receive an email from the Mayor’s office, inviting me to be a jury member for the 2013 competition. I confirmed my presence faster than you can say Grand prix de la baguette de tradition française de la Ville de Paris. I took the mission seriously and prepared myself (by eating a lot of bread) to help select France’s next champion baker. Here’s how it went down.

Baguettes await their judgement

On the morning of April 25, 204 participating bakers dropped off two baguettes each at 7 quai d’Anjou on the Ile-Saint-Louis. Only 152 bakers were accepted into competition. The rest were thrown out because they didn’t meet the strict size guidelines for a traditional French baguette (between 55-65cm and 250-300g).

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There were three jury panels composed of professional bakers, prize-winning apprentices, bakers’ union bureaucrats, a few journalists, and previous winners. I had the pleasure of sitting next to Pascal Barillon who won the 2011 competition and whose bakery we visit on one of our Paris food tours. I felt confident in evaluating the baguettes according to aspect (appearance), cuisson (cooking), mie-alveolage (texture), odeur (smell) and gout (taste), but Barillon was able to explain the technical failures that might have been responsible when the crumb was “comme le chewing-gum.”

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So what were we looking for? A good crumb should be elastic, with plenty of irregular sized and unevenly spaced holes, like the example on the right. The crust should be crunchy, not a wimpy millimeter like the example on the left.

Good crumb, bad crumb

The degree of cooking is more subject to personal taste. Parisians often indicate their preferred cuisson when ordering – pas trop cuit for a blonde and doughy baguette, or bien cuit for something well-cooked. I know bakers who privately seethe when their customers order under-cooked baguettes because the cereal notes haven’t yet had a chance to develop. But as you can see form the range of colors below, there’s no gold standard for coloration.

A wave of baguettes

Each jury tasted more than fifty baguettes – swallowing, not spitting – before the scores were tallied. The top ten baguettes from each panel advanced to a final tasting round and the extra loaves (each baker delivered two) were tasted and ranked by the other panels. In the final round, I tasted a loaf that I really loved, number 187, and had the foresight to snap its picture. It turned out to be the winning baguette. This is what delicious looks like:

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As soon as the final results were tallied, the President of the jury tore open an envelope marked with the winning number 187. Inside, a small hand-written paper contained the following information: Ridha Khadher, Au Paradis du Gourmand – 156 Rue Raymond Losserand, 75014. She immediately placed a phone call to Mr. Khadher to share the good news. He responded by repeating “vraiment? vraiment!?” while the jury members applauded in the background. Our Assistant Editor Catherine Down raced over there as soon as I shared the address and found him fighting back tears, watching the line of customers grow down the sidewalk, telling her that he’d  been baking since the age of fourteen but never imagined that something like this could happen to him.

Ridha Khadher winner Best Baguette in Paris

Khadher will receive a cash prize and trophy, along with the contract to supply the Élysée Presidential Palace with their bread for the coming year. The resulting media coverage will guarantee a line of customers down the block for the foreseeable future.

Top 10 winners of the Best Baguette in Paris competition

As I write this, the other winners after Khadher haven’t yet been formerly announced. But I was able to snag a photo of the results, decipher the handwriting, and create this top ten list of the best baguettes for 2013. The #1 spot, which has been occupied by bakers from Montmartre for the past six years, no longer belongs to the 75018. However, a bakery near Chateau Rouge came in second this year, and there are two more top ten bakeries clustered between Place du Clichy and Blanche. A pretty strong showing for the Butte, even if the winning bakery is on the opposite side of town.

All in all, I’m thrilled to have dedicated three hours and three thousand calories to today’s tasting. The chance to talk about technique with Pascal Barillon was more than I could have hoped for, and the peek behind the scenes at this venerable competition was a dream come true. Thanks to the City of Paris for inviting me, and for continuing to support and celebrate artisanal bread-making with this annual event.

In closing, a few more pictures…

Bakers on break

Baguettes waiting to be tasted

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Best Baguette in Paris 2013 by Ridha Khadher from Au Paradis du Gourmand

Ridha Khadher wins the Best Baguette in Paris competition

Sacrebleu! The streets around Sacre Coeur can no longer claim the best baguette in the city. For the first time in 6 years, the winner is not from Montmartre. The 14th arrondissement is the new home of the champion baguette made by baker Ridha Khadher of Au Paradis du Gourmand. 

Our editor Meg Zimbeck fulfilled a dream by participating as one of the judges in today’s competition. More than 204 baguettes were delivered to 7 rue d’Anjou on the Ile-Saint-Louis, but only 152 of these met the criteria for length and weight. Meg will be reporting on the process and criteria just as soon as she recovers from her carb-induced coma. For now, here are your top ten results…

Paris’ Top 10 Baguettes in 2013

1. Au Paradis du Gourmand, 156 Rue Raymond Losserand, 75014

2. Boulangerie Raphaëlle, 1 rue Feutrier, 75018

3. Boulangerie Damiani, 125 avenue du Clichy, 75017

4. Christian Vabret, 27 rue Francois Miron, 75004

5. Maison Cailleaud, 104 Cours de Vincennes, 75012

6. Yosuké Fijié from Maison Landemeine, 56 rue du Clichy, 75009

7. Dominique Saibron, 77 avenue du Géneral Leclerc, 75014

8. Le Grenier à Pain Lafayette, 91 rue Faubourg Poissonière, 75009

9. La Parisienne, 12 rue Coustou, 75018

10. Claude Besnier, 40 rue du Bourgogne, 75007


Paris’ Top 10 Baguettes in 2012

1.  Boulangerie Mauvieux 159 rue Ordener, 75018

2. Raoul Maeder 111 boulevard Haussmann, 75008

3. Alexandre Chauvin, Boulangerie Audou, 10 rue de Chanzy, 75011

4. Dominique Anract, La Pompadour, 110 rue de la Tour, 75016

5. Arnaud Delmontel, 39 rue des Martyrs, 75009

6. Narcisse Pasquier and David Pasquereau, La Petite Marquise, 3 place Victor Hugo, 75016

7. Guillaume Delcourt, 100 rue Boileau, 75016

8. Eran Mayer, 100 rue du Théatre, 75015

9. Benjamin Turquier, 134 RdT, 134 rue de Turenne, 75003

10. Ludovic Jeanette, Les Saveurs de Wagram, 169 avenue de Wagram, 75017

 

Paris’ Top 10 Baguettes in 2011

1. Pascal Barillon, Au Levain d’Antan, 6 rue des Abbesses, 75018

2. Gaétan Romp, 14 rue de la Michodière, 75002

3. Pascal Jamin, Les Saveurs du 20ème, 120 rue de Bagnolet, 75020

4. Gontran Cherrier, 22 rue Caulaincourt, 75018

5. M. Risser, Le Fournil du Village, 12 place J.B. Clément, 75018

6. Gilles Levaslot, Les Gourmandises d’Eiffel, 187 rue de Grenelle, 75007

7. Jean-Noël Julien from Julien, 75 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001

8. Philippe Marache, 92 av de la République Paris, 75011

9. Philippe Bogner, 204 rue des Pyrénées, 75020

10. Le Grenier à Pain Saint-Amand, 33 bis rue Saint-Amand, 75015

 

A map of all winners from the past five years

[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=210780527856662539540.000482607ddeeed141859&ll=48.864263,2.340431&spn=0.126252,0.308647&z=12 width=500 height=400 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no] View a larger version of this map here.

Related reading

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Eric Kayser baguettes

Eric Kayser opens bakery in New York

The rumors are true: Eric Kayser has opened up a bakery in New York City. Joining Ladurée on the city’s Upper East Side, the newest Kayser outpost boasts 370 square meters of space and 104 places to sit. This first location will soon be joined by two others in Midtown and the Flatiron district.

Beyond baguettes and croissants to go, Kayser in New York is attempting restauration rapide. The response, summarized by Eater, is predictable: Yelpers complaining about forgotten appetizers and inattentive hostesses. In Paris, I’m thrilled to find a bakery that offers any place to sit and am unbothered by asking several times for forgotten items. New Yorkers may prove to be a more demanding audience.

But what of the baguette? Kayser’s Paris version – the crispy crackly baguette Monge – was ranked #1 in our list of five great baguettes. Will the New York version differ? Serious Eats reports that Kayser sent a team of NYC bakers and chefs to Paris for 6-12 months to master the methods and recipes. However, instead of making the dough and baking on site at each location, as is legally required in France, Kayser NYC will produce all bread dough at the Upper East Side location and then deliver it daily to be baked fresh at the other locations.

Another key (and very American) difference: Kayser’s NYC locations will be open 7 days per week and until 11pm. I think we can also assume that they won’t close for the month of August.

Have you tried it? We’re terribly curious about Kayser’s NYC baguette (and other products) and would love to hear from any readers who have visited the new location. What’s your reaction?

Additional Links:

  • Eric Kayser à la conquête de l’Amérique [Boulangerie-Pâtisserie.net]
  • The Early Word on Maison Kayser’s First US Location [Eater]
  • A Taste of Maison Kayser, Eric Kayser’s New Bakery on the Upper East Side [Serious Eats]
Our Map of Paris, New York:


View Paris, New York in a larger map

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Baguette by Meg Zimbeck

The 18th is (yet again) Home to the Best Baguette in Paris

Baguette by Meg Zimbeck
Congratulations to Sébastien Mauvieux, whose baguette de tradition won the 2012 Grand Prix de la Baguette de la Ville de Paris. Bravo!

According to 20minutes.fr, 168 bakers showed up in the early morning with their samples, but only 124 were allowed to enter. The others did not meet the official criteria for size and weight.

Five out of the past six years, the prize has been won by bakers in the 18th arrondissement. It now seems like a legitimate hypothesis that there is, in fact, something in the water up there.

The Results

  1. Boulangerie Mauvieux 159 rue Ordener, 75018
  2. Raoul Maeder 111 boulevard Haussmann, 75008
  3. Alexandre Chauvin, Boulangerie Audou, 10 rue de Chanzy, 75011
  4. Dominique Anract, La Pompadour, 110 rue de la Tour, 75016
  5. Arnaud Delmontel, 39 rue des Martyrs, 75009
  6. Narcisse Pasquier and David Pasquereau, La Petite Marquise, 3 place Victor Hugo, 75016
  7. Guillaume Delcourt, 100 rue Boileau, 75016
  8. Eran Mayer, 100 rue du Théatre, 75015
  9. Benjamin Turquier, 134 RdT, 134 rue de Turenne, 75003
  10. Ludovic Jeanette, Les Saveurs de Wagram, 169 avenue de Wagram, 75017

2011 Results

  1. Pascal Barillon, Au Levain d’Antan, 6 rue des Abbesses, 75018
  2. Gaétan Romp, 14 rue de la Michodière, 75002
  3. Pascal Jamin, Les Saveurs du 20ème, 120 rue de Bagnolet, 75020
  4. Gontran Cherrier  22 rue Caulaincourt, 75018
  5. M. Risser, Le Fournil du Village, 12 place J.B. Clément, 75018
  6. Gilles Levaslot, Les Gourmandises d’Eiffel, 187 rue de Grenelle, 75007
  7. Jean-Noël Julien, Julien, 75 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001
  8. Philippe Marache, 92 av de la République Paris, 75011
  9. Philippe Bogner, 204 rue des Pyrénées, 75020
  10. Le Grenier à Pain Saint-Amand, 33 bis rue Saint-Amand, 75015

A map of all winners from the past five years

[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=210780527856662539540.000482607ddeeed141859&ll=48.864263,2.340431&spn=0.126252,0.308647&z=12 width=500 height=400 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no] View a larger version of this map here.

Related reading
Coverage of the 2011 Grand Prix on Paris by Mouth
Phyllis Flick’s account of her experience as a jury member
All of our bakery listings

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Our Map of Paris Bakeries

Our Map of Paris Bakeries

From baguettes to boules, Paris is heaven for bread lovers. Click and zoom on this map to find a bakery near you, or one worth crossing town for.

[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=210780527856662539540.0004877daf76a32de01b9&ll=48.862456,2.341805&spn=0.110898,0.306931&z=12 width=500 height=400 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]

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Best baguette in Paris 2011 Au Levain d'Antan Pascal Barillon

The Best Baguettes in Paris are again in Montmartre

Grand Prix de la Baguette de la Ville de Paris

In 2011, and for the 4 of the last 5 years (see past results below), a bakery in Montmartre has taken home the top prize. Congratulations to Pascal Barillon of Au Levain d’Antan! The 52 year-old baker will earn a 4000€ cash prize and a contract to keep President Nicolas Sarkozy (and Carla, if she eats them) in fresh baguettes throughout the coming year.

Click on any of the links for more information, or visit Our Guide to Paris Bakeries for all of our bakery listings.

List of 2011 winners

  1. Pascal Barillon (Au Levain d’Antan), 6 rue des Abbesses, 75018
  2. Gaétan Romp 14 rue de la Michodière, 75002
  3. Pascal Jamin (Les Saveurs du 20ème), 120 rue de Bagnolet, 75020
  4. Gontran Cherrier (Gontran Cherrier), 22 rue Caulaincourt, 75018
  5. M. Risser (Le Fournil du Village), 12 place J.B. Clément, 75018
  6. Gilles Levaslot (Les Gourmandises d’Eiffel), 187 rue de Grenelle, 75007
  7. Jean-Noël Julien (Julien), 75 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001
  8. Philippe Marache, 92 av de la République Paris, 75011
  9. Philippe Bogner, 204 rue des Pyrénées, 75020
  10. Le Grenier à Pain Saint-Amand, 33 bis rue Saint-Amand, 75015

Map of all winners in the past five years

[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=210780527856662539540.000482607ddeeed141859&ll=48.864263,2.340431&spn=0.126252,0.308647&z=12 width=500 height=400 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]

List of past winners

2010 winners

  1. Djibril Bodian (Le Grenier à Pain Abbesses), 38 rue des Abbesses, 75018
  2. Daniel Pouphary (La Parisienne) 28 rue Monge, 75005
  3. Dominique Saibron 77 avenue du Général Leclerc, 75014
  4. Yves Desgranges 6 rue de Passy, 75016
  5. Philippe Gosselin 258 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75007
  6. Xavier Doué 163 avenue de versaillais, 75016
  7. Sébastien and Sylvie Lohézic (Boulangerie Lohézic), 31 rue Guersant, 75017
  8. Michel Chorin (Boulangerie d’Isa) 127 rue de Charenton, 75012
  9. Boulangerie Zerzour (now closed), 50 rue de l’Amiral Roussin, 75015
  10. Zerzour II (now closed), 324 rue Lecourbe, 75014

2009 winners

  1. Franck Tombarel (Le Grenier de Félix), 64 avenue Félix Faure, 75015
  2. Benjamin Turquier 134 rue de Turenne, 75003
  3. Stéphane Eury  98 rue de Meaux, 75019
  4. Eran Mayer 100 rue du Théâtre, 75015
  5. Djibril Bodian (Le Grenier à Pain Abbesses), 38 rue des Abbesses, 75018
  6. Stéphane Henry 2 bis boulevard Morland, 75004
  7. Thierry Racoillet (Coquelicot) 50 bis rue de Douai, 75009
  8. Frédéric Pichard 88 rue de Cambronne, 75015
  9. Jean-Marc Touchard 111 rue Saint Dominique, 75007
  10. Bertrand Pougnet (Le Grenier à Pain), 52 avenue d’Italie, 75013

2008 winners

  1. Anis Bouabsa (Au Duc de la Chapelle), 32 rue Tristan Tzara, 75018
  2. Fabrice Pottier 231 rue Vaugirard, 75015
  3. Morgan Gantier 2 rue Corot, 75016
  4. Franck Tombarel (Le Grenier de Félix),  64 avenue Félix Faure, 75015
  5. Emmanuel Merlhes 225 rue Charenton, 75012
  6. Lydie et Arnaud Dumont 53 rue Navier, 75017
  7. Régis Colin 53 rue Montmartre, 75002
  8. Raoul Maeder 158 boulevard Berthier, 75017
  9. Stéphane Eury 98 rue de Meaux, 75019
  10. Alexandre Planchais (Boulangerie Alexine), 40 rue Lepic, 75018

2007 winners

  1. Arnaud Delmontel 57 rue Damrémont, 75018
  2. Régis Colin 53 rue Montmartre, 75002
  3. Anis Bouabsa (Au Duc de la Chapelle), 32 rue Tristan Tzara, 75018
  4. Djibril Bodian (Le Grenier à Pain Abbesses), 38 rue des Abbesses, 75018
  5. Raoul Maeder 158 boulevard Berthier, 75017
  6. Thierry Racoillet 24 rue des Abbesses, 75018
  7. Emmanuel Croteau 40 rue Sorbier, 75020 *CHANGE OF OWNER
  8. Alexandre Planchais (Boulangerie Alexine), 40 rue Lepic, 75018
  9. Thierry Renard 113 bis boulevard de l’Hôpital, 75013 MOVED to 58 rue du Cherche Midi, 75006
  10. Bertrand Pougnet (Le Grenier à Pain), 52 avenue d’Italie, 75013

Additional reading

  • Caroline Mignot shares her experience [FR] as a member of the baguette-tasting jury in 2011
  • Phyllis Flick writes about what makes a baguette de tradition (2011) and her experience as a member of the baguette-tasting jury in 2010
  • The Guardian (2011) publishes the most alliterative headline ever: “French bakers battle to bag best baguette bounty.”
  • Meg Zimbeck (2010) presents 10 bakeries who have rocked this competition over the past few years (Budget Travel)
  • Steven Kaplan (aka “the bread professor”) teaches Conan O’Brien about what makes a good baguette

 

 

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