Happy Plates

• Pudlo is charmed by Qui Plume la Lune and the poetic efforts of chef Jacky Ribault. He finds the cooking to be “alive and generous,” and the desserts “witty,” citing a sablé rhubarbapapa (barbe à papa = cotton candy). [Gilles Pudlowski]

Hells No

• John Talbott continues to play the contrarian, rating Le Pantruche, even lower than that “miserable excuse for a restaurant,” La Maison Mère. Blame the inedible beef cheeks. [John Talbott's Paris]

• The venerable P-Wells says “no thanks” to Auguste, calling the efforts of chef Gaël Orieux “terribly misguided and without a clear direction.” The “sad and tasteless fish was set in a mushy bed of pumpkin puree and simply left me without an appetite.” Yeeowch. [Patricia Wells]