Tag Archives: David Toutain

Restaurant David Toutain (photo Meg Zimbeck)

Restaurant David Toutain

David Toutain is back. The much lauded chef, who brought acclaim to Agapé Substance before jumping ship back in December 2012, returned with his own place during the last days of 2013.  His meticulous and conceptual cooking highlights seasonal produce, with vegetables often playing the starring role. This is by no means a vegetarian restaurant, but Toutain’s ability to bring out the beauty in oft-ignored roots reminds us of his former boss Alain Passard. Tasting menus range from 42€ at lunch to 98€ for the most extensive menu (available at lunch or dinner). Wine pairings – thoughtfully done – are available for another 40-50€.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 29 rue Surcouf, 75007
Nearest transport: Invalides (8)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance at reservation@davidtoutain.com
Telephone: 01 45 51 11 10
Average price for lunch: 40-59€
Average price for dinner: 60-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

Sugared & Spiced (2014) “Clever, beautiful small plates made up of pristine ingredients.”

François-Régis Gaudry for L’Express (2014) “Retenez le nom de ce chef surdoué: il va faire le tour du monde.”

Adrian Moore (2014) ” His surprise menus are inventive, eclectic, and hyper-seasonal.”

Philippe Toinard for A Nous Paris (2014) “Reconnaissons à ce trentenaire sa capacité à tout maîtriser, les différentes cuissons, la transformation des produits bruts en mille et une textures (bouillon de pelures de pommes de terre, poudre de fenouil ou mousse de speck), et ce sens de l’association osée (huître et kiwi/œuf, maïs et caramel/chocolat blanc, chou-fleur et glace au lait de coco).”

Patricia Wells (2014) “David Toutain is a cerebral chef. Nothing is accidental and when you enter his brand new 7tharrondissement restaurant you are subject to his rules and his way of thinking. Yet you never feel as though your arm is being twisted. This is not a restaurant for a casual meal, but rather one that is meticulously planned and thought out, and begs for, yes deserves,  your attention. And it’s well worth your time.”

Alexander Lobrano for T Magazine (2014) “The rhythm of the prix-fixe menu, which changes daily, is intentionally varied. Toutain composes meals so that a quiet dish, like seared foie gras in baked potato bouillon with black truffles, sets up the drama of another dish meant to dazzle, like a monochromatic white composition of cuttlefish with yuba (bean-curd sheet) and nearly translucent Parmesan gnocchi, seasoned with the juice extracted from cooking the cheese at a very low temperature for many hours.”

Le Fooding (2014) “Chez lui, Toutain joue en sourdine. Décor aéré presque sévère (bois, béton, aplats gris), service cravaté et… carte muette ! Tout commence par une page blanche – une table en bois massif qui s’habille pièce à pièce : serviette, verres, cailloux, coupelles, terres cuites.”

John Talbott (2013) “Any striking plusses? The wonderful warmth of the newly gathered staff (quite astonishing). The innovative, consistent, explosive food.”

Additional images

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Oysters with kiwi

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Gnocchi with foie gras, black truffle, and potato skin broth

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Pork cooked in a crust flecked with coffee beans, served with orange, carrot and potimarron

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Cabillaud (cod) with broccoli and pil pil

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24 month Comté with black truffle

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Candied topinambour (Jerusalem artichoke) with crème de praline and topinambour ice cream

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Poire confit (candied pear)

Sea Urchin at Agapé Substance

Agapé Substance – NOW CLOSED

NOW CLOSED. Chef David Toutain made a name for this restaurant but then abruptly left the restaurant in December 2012 along with most of the kitchen staff. The restaurant closed during the summer of 2014.

Address: 66 rue Mazarine, 75006

Reviews of interest

The reviews below date from the time when chef David Toutain was at Agape Substance. We collected no reviews after his departure. The restaurant is now closed.

François Simon (2011) “…une belle démonstration en élipses savoureuses. Diner aux petits oignons, nickel et épurée devant une clientèle en aspiration studieuse.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2011) “…chaque assiette se révèle ultracomposée dans les textures, les harmoniques et les cuissons. Les unes remarquables, culottées, précieuses. Les autres accessoires, pédantes, limite cabotines.”

Caroline Mignot (2011) “Sincèrement, je suis sortie enthousiasmée par ces découvertes, ce lieu différent et cette autre façon de montrer la cuisine…39 € ma formule, j’étais comblée…mais attention aux à-côtés qui dépassent l’entendement côté prix…”

John Talbott (2011) “…one can expect nothing (forget the critics’ descriptions, this 30 yo genius changes stuff all the time)… expect stuff you’ve never heard of before…Go?  Wow….wow….wow….wow!”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “…a decidedly Asian aesthetic in terms of the way the food is presented; a starring role for vegetables and fresh herbs and shoots, including many obscure ones; tables d’hotes serving with stool seating…From our first amuse bouche, though, I knew that we were in for a fascinating meal.”

Patricia Wells (2011) “Think explosions of concentrated flavors, gorgeous food, pristine ingredients, and toss in a friendly, easy atmosphere for good measure…”

Thierry Richard (2011) “…la cuisine de celui que certains considèrent comme un jeune prodige de 30 ans, elle oscille entre l’inopportun et le magnifique… Au bilan des ratages : l’amuse-bouche (Yuzu en trois textures et dentelle de riz, superbe mais atone, sans la moindre percussion) et le Tourteau (servi en minuscules bouchées accompagnées d’un bouillon et d’agrumes, trop evanescent pour laisser une quelconque empreinte). Mais quand la rencontre se fait, c’est le bonheur.”

Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “Un chef avec des ailes, du grain de génie, le sens du produit, de la cuisson juste, du mariage de saveurs exactes….une cuisine de cueillette, de l’instant, d’inspiration, d’idées.

Bruno Verjus (2011) “…la cuisine joue l’inattendu et la mesure. La carte énonce sans dire : girolles, oeuf, cabillaud, veau, courgette, chocolat, carotte, pigeon. Une nomination pour une maîtrise extrême des produits, des cuissons, des températures, des goûts, des textures… Attention, génie chez ce chef de 30 ans…”

 

 

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Restaurant David Toutain Opens December 23

The exterior of David Toutain's new restaurant
The soon-to-be Restaurant David Toutain at 29 rue Surcouf, 75007

David Toutain is back. Well, he will be shortly. The much lauded chef, who brought acclaim to Agapé Substance before jumping ship back in December 2012, will be returning with a new restaurant on December 23. He’s taking over Le Clarisse (29 rue Surcouf, 75007) and the new venture will bear his name, Restaurant David Toutain.

Check out www.davidtoutain.com for a very dramatic film (rebirth! transition! thunderclap!) designed to get you pumped for the resurrection.

For reservations, contact 01 45 51 11 10 or reservation@davidtoutain.com