Happy Plates

• François-Régis Gaudry digs the futuristic chainmail décor at Les Tablettes, the new restaurant in the former spot of La Table de Joel Robuchon, and has high praise for (ex-Lasserre) chef Jean-Louis Nomicos and his signature royale of fennel and sea urchin. [L'Express]

• Alexander Lobrano pays a visit to Nomicos’ ex (now shacked up with chef Christophe Moret) and says that “in a world gone GAP, Lasserre still delivers an exquisite, classical unself-consciously French experience of gourmet dining.” He’s also impressed by the coquettishly named Lily Wang and would go often if it weren’t so expensive. [Hungry for Paris]

• Sophie Brissaud applauds Saturne and its “semi-viking” chef after enjoying his ”paleolithic crudité” of raw sea scallops with root vegetable shavings. [Chez Ptipois]