Tag Archives: France

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Calendar of Upcoming Food & Wine Tours

ABOUT OUR TOURS

Our tours are lead by English-speaking food & wine professionals who share our passion for eating in Paris. The small-group food tours & the wine bar tour listed below are priced at €95 (including all tastings) and last around three hours. We keep these groups small in order to provide a more personalized experience for you, and to ensure that we are welcome in shops of exceptional quality.  You can click the links below to learn more and to book directly online.

A fabulous new tasting space in the Aligre market neighborhood permits us to welcome up to ten guests for the popular French Cheese & Wine Workshop and even larger groups for private and corporate tasting events. We also offer privatized versions of our food tours in Saint-Germain, the Marais and the Latin Quarter. For more information about private tours, just send us an email.

We are happy to accommodate any requests to avoid meat, gluten, dairy or alcohol, just let us know during the registration process.

Click to read what people have been saying about our tours, and we hope to see you soon!

OUR CALENDAR OF UPCOMING TOURS

November

Saturday November 29

  • Beyond Bordeaux: A Tour of Natural Wines & Wine Bars at 4pm (sold out with wait list)

Sunday November 30

December

Monday December 1

Tuesday December 2

Wednesday December 3

Thursday December 4

Friday December 5

Saturday December 6

Sunday December 7

Monday December 8

Tuesday December 9

Wednesday December 10

Thursday December 11

Friday December 12

Saturday December 13

Sunday December 14

Monday December 15

Tuesday December 16

Wednesday December 17

Thursday December 18

Friday December 19

Saturday December 20

Sunday December 21

Monday December 22

  • Taste of Saint-Germain at 4pm (sold out with wait list)

Tuesday December 23

Thursday December 25

  • Christmas Day - No Tours

Friday December 26

Saturday December 27

Sunday December 28

Monday December 29

Tuesday December 30

Wednesday December 31

January

Friday January 2

Saturday January 3

Sunday January 4

Monday January 5

Tuesday January 6

Wednesday January 7

Thursday January 8

Friday January 9

Saturday January 10

Sunday January 11

Monday January 12

Tuesday January 13

Wednesday January 14

Thursday January 15

Friday January 16

Saturday January 17

Sunday January 18

Monday January 19

Tuesday January 20

Wednesday January 21

Thursday January 22

Saturday January 24

Sunday January 25

Monday January 26 

Tuesday January 27

Wednesday January 28

Thursday January 29

Friday January 30

Saturday January 31

February

Monday February 2

Tuesday February 3

Wednesday February 4

Friday February 6

Saturday February 7

Monday February 9

Tuesday February 10

Wednesday February 11

Friday February 13

Saturday February 14

Monday February 16

Tuesday February 17

Wednesday February 18

Thursday February 19

Friday February 20

Saturday February 21

Monday February 23

Tuesday February 24

Wednesday February 25

Thursday February 26

Friday February 27

Saturday February 28

Game on! The hunting season opens in France

wild game

The Pourcel brothers report that the official hunting season opened yesterday in France, so we can expect to see some gibier à plumes (wild birds)  turning up on restaurant menus soon, to be followed later in the season by gibier à poils (wild hare, boar and deer).

An interesting detail: while nearly 580,000 deer and 556,000 wild boars are killed each year in France, most of the wild game sold in France is actually imported from New Zealand and Eastern Europe.

Read the full article from Les Fréres Pourcel

Find additional resources in Our Guide to Wild Game in Paris

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What’s Open in August? Our 2014 Calendar of Restaurant Closures

For many years, we’ve been assembling a calendar to show you which restaurants (those already included in Our Paris Guide) will be open in August. This year, we’ve been extra annoying on your behalf, making repeated calls and emails to more than 400 restaurants to confirm their exact plans. The good news for diners: holiday closures have shortened dramatically compared with past years, and many restaurants are staying open all summer. Whether you want to search for the schedule of a particular restaurant, or find out what’s open by date, you’ll have plenty to choose from this season.

Click to Search by Date

Scroll to Search by Restaurant

75001 (Louvre, Palais Royal, Opéra)

Summer picnic along the SeineSummer picnic along the Seine

75002 (Sentier)

Lunch in the Marché des Enfants RougesLunch in the Marché des Enfants Rouges

75003 (Northern Marais)

75004 (Southern Marais)

Sitting along the SeineBack to back, along the Seine

75005 (Latin Quarter)

On the edge of the Ile Saint LouisOn the edge of the Ile Saint Louis

75006 (Saint-Germain)

Luxembourg Gardens Paris summerLuxembourg Gardens in the summer

75007 (Western Saint-Germain, Invalides, Eiffel Tower)

Cobblestone Rollerskate along the SeineCobblestone rollerskate along the Seine

75008 (Arc de Triomphe, Champs-Élysées, Madeleine)

75009 (Pigalle, Grands Boulevards)

 75010 (Canal Saint-Martin)

Paris PlagesSummer spray at Paris Plages

75011 (Bastille, République, Voltaire)

75012 (Aligre, Nation)

Flowers at the Aligre marketFlowers at the Aligre market

75013 (Chinatown)

75014 (Montparnasse)

Jardin de l'Observatoire Jardin de l’Observatoire

75015 (Eiffel Tower)

Parc des Buttes ChaumontThe Parc des Buttes Chaumont

75016 (Trocadéro, Bois de Boulogne)

75017 (Arc de Triomphe, Batignolles)

Summer terrasse in MontmartreSummer terrasse in Montmartre

75018 (Montmartre)

75020 (Belleville, Ménilmontant)

  • Chatomat – closed from June 22- July 14 and from August 17-September 4
  • Le Baratin – closed from August 17-mid September

Search by Date

Boules along the Bassin de la VillettePétanque along the Bassin de la Villette

Open on Friday August 1

Open on Saturday August 2

Open on Sunday August 3

Rock en Seine summer concert seriesRock en Seine summer concert series

Open on Monday August 4

Open on Tuesday August 5

Canalside caféCanal side café

Open on Wednesday August 6

Open on Thursday August 7

Dancing at Paris PlagesDancing at Paris Plages

Open on Friday August 8

Open on Saturday August 9

Tourists on the bridgeSummer tourists on the bridge

Open on Sunday August 10

Open on Monday August 11

On the slope of the Sacre CoeurOn the slope of the Sacre Coeur

Open on Tuesday August 12

Open on Wednesday August 13

Summer wedding near the CanalSummer wedding near the Canal

Open on Thursday August 14

Open on Friday August 15

Today is a national holiday (Assumption) and many restaurants, even if they have otherwise told us they will be open, may actually be closed. Make sure to call ahead before you head out. 

Flower seller at the Raspail marketFlower seller at the Raspail market

Open on Saturday August 16

Open on Sunday August 17

Summer legs in the Luxembourg GardensSunning in the Luxembourg Gardens

Open on Monday August 18

Open on Tuesday August 19

Sidewalk café in MontmartreSidewalk café in Montmartre

Open on Wednesday August 20

Open on Thursday August 21

Herbs at the Aligre marketFresh herbs at the Aligre market

Open on Friday August 22

Open on Saturday August 23

Picnic along the SeinePicnic along the Seine

Open on Sunday August 24

Open on Monday August 25

Hidden garden near the Canal (Café A)Hidden garden near the Canal (Café A)

Open on Tuesday August 26

Open on Wednesday August 27

Café 28° Est on the Bassin de la VilletteCafé 28° Est on the Bassin de la Villette

Open on Thursday August 28

Open on Friday August 29

Love Wall, MontmartreLove Wall, Montmartre

Open on Saturday August 30

Open on Sunday August 31

Summer sips along the CanalSummer sips along the Canal

 

reading photo by Nicolas Portnoï via Flickr

Delicious Reading for Summer 2014

Hungry for France: Adventures for the Cook & Food Lover

by Alexander Lobrano

For those of you traveling around the countryside this summer, Alexander Lobrano’s new book is an indispensable guide to the fascinating food ways and favored restaurants that you’ll find in the many different regions of France. Every chapter shares the author’s personal connection with a corner of the country and provides a meaningful context for understanding the people and flavors you’ll encounter there. It matters because Lobrano isn’t someone who decided to write a memoir after a handful of meals in France. He’s been eating and thoughtfully writing about food in France for decades, and for the very best publications. It’s also a great book for armchair travelers and home cooks, with tantalizing photography from Steven Rothfeld and regional recipes from longtime Food & Wine contributor Jane Sigal. On summer days when I can’t escape work and the city, I can turn to the Normandy chapter recipe for dorade with lettuce cream, radishes and cockles (a recipe from Alexandre Bourdas of SaQuaNa in Honfleur) and feel like I’ve escaped to the shore.

My Paris Kitchen: Recipes and Stories

by David Lebovitz

As Paris bistros continue to evolve and send out modern dishes that are more often marked by smears and shavings than long simmering, I continue to jones for classic fare like céleri rémoulade and cassoulet. Considering how hard it has become to find these dishes done correctly in restaurants, and given how easy (and relatively inexpensive) it is to find the necessary ingredients in Paris, I’ve been trying to master the classics at home. This project started with the 2010 publication of Dorie Greenspan’s Around My French Table and has now been reinvigorated by this, David Lebovitz’ first significant foray into savory cooking. Widely celebrated for his sweet recipes and sharp wit, Lebovitz is an obsessive guy with a test kitchen in his east Paris apartment… the kind of guy who will repeat and refine a recipe for Coq au Vin until it’s perfect. That’s what you want. The accompanying stories (debating, for example, the inclusion of cocoa powder instead of chicken blood in that very Coq au Vin) invite you into his kitchen, into his thought process, into the question of what it means to be cooking in Paris today.

The Food Lover’s Guide to Paris: The Best Restaurants, Bistros, Cafés, Markets, Bakeries, and More

by Patricia Wells

When Patricia Wells published the first edition of this book 30 years ago, it quickly became a bible for food loving travelers to Paris. Before this effort, no one had compiled a collection of addresses, recipes and advice in such a useful way. By carrying a single tome, travelers had an insider’s list of tables to try, a food glossary and practical pages about etiquette, plus hundreds of black and white photos documenting the fabulous fashion and feathered hair of the 1980s. The world has changed a lot since 1984 and the internet (including our little corner of it) has become a plentiful source of free milk, a sometimes overwhelming provider of information about where and how to eat. Why stick with Wells? Because the lady knows what she’s talking about (how rare that has become!), and has personally tested on her own dime each of the restaurants included in this book and its associated app. Many of the tables she celebrated thirty years ago are still here, but a huge number have been necessarily culled and replaced with restaurants that appeal to today’s appetites. Wells loves Japanese food and light and healthy fare, so there are plenty of spots for noodles and sushi to compliment her recommendations for hearty bistro classics. This will be the source that other people continue to rip off for years.

 

Lead image by Nicolas Portnoï via Flickr

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Costco is Coming to France

The American behemoth Costco announced that it will be setting up its shop in the Parisian suburbs in spring 2015. This will be the first of 25 shops they hope to open over the next two decades.

We don’t expect this to make much of an impact on the lives of Parisians, who generally don’t drive and lack the space to store more than six rolls of toilet paper at once. But the suburbs and the countryside? They’re going to love it.

(via Grub Street, Le Figaro)

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What’s Open in Paris? Our 2013 Schedule of Summer Restaurant Closures

Looking for the most recent information? Here’s our latest post What’s Open in August? Our 2014 Calendar of Paris Restaurant Closures

summer-hours-are-hard2

We’ve been hounding our favorite Paris restaurants to learn their holiday plans, and have assembled the information below in two different ways. First, you’ll find a list of restaurants open by date. This listing takes into account the restaurants’ regular weekly opening hours as well as their holiday closures. If you’re looking for the hours of a specific restaurant, you can scroll all the way down to find restaurants’ schedules organized by arrondissement. Feel free to tell us in the comments if you learn the schedule for a restaurant that we haven’t yet included, and we’ll add it to our list. Happy eating!

What’s Open by Date

Open Sunday August 18

Open Monday August 19

Open Tuesday August 20

Open Wednesday August 21

Open Thursday August 22

Open Friday August 23

Open Saturday August 24

Open Sunday August 25

Open Monday August 26

Open Tuesday August 27

Open Wednesday August 28

Open Thursday August 29

Open Friday August 30

Open Saturday August 31

Open Sunday September 1

Summer Closures by Restaurant

75001

75002

75003

  • Candelaria – no summer closure but closed July 8 all day and July 9 for lunch
  • Glou – no summer closure
  • Le Mary Celeste – no summer closure but closed July 8 all day
  • Rose Bakery – no summer closure

75004

75005

75006

75007

75008

75009

75010

75011

75014

75015

75016

75018

75019

75020

Bar Closures

  • Glass – closed August 11-22
  • La Fine Mousse – no summer closure
  • Le Garde Robe – closed for lunch in August, otherwise no summer closure
  • Le SuperCoin – closed August 11-19 with a big barrel-draining drink party on August 10
  • O-Chateau – no summer closure

Shop Closures

Boulangeries

Chocolate & Pastry Shops

Cheese Shops

  • Androuet on the rue Verneuil – closed July 28-August 22
  • Laurent Dubois – no summer closure at Saint-Germain location

Wine & Beer Shops

 

Clotilde Dusoulier - Flexitarian in France

A French Food Writer Goes Flexitarian

Many of our readers would struggle to name an iconic French dish that isn’t based on (or mightily improved by) something that came from an animal. But according to our Contributing Editor Clotilde Dusoulier, who just released a new cookbook celebrating the bounty of our local markets, an important shift is taking place in France. 

Continue reading

Best Baguette in Paris 2013 by Ridha Khadher from Au Paradis du Gourmand

Ridha Khadher wins the Best Baguette in Paris competition

Sacrebleu! The streets around Sacre Coeur can no longer claim the best baguette in the city. For the first time in 6 years, the winner is not from Montmartre. The 14th arrondissement is the new home of the champion baguette made by baker Ridha Khadher of Au Paradis du Gourmand. 

Our editor Meg Zimbeck fulfilled a dream by participating as one of the judges in today’s competition. More than 204 baguettes were delivered to 7 rue d’Anjou on the Ile-Saint-Louis, but only 152 of these met the criteria for length and weight. Meg will be reporting on the process and criteria just as soon as she recovers from her carb-induced coma. For now, here are your top ten results…

Paris’ Top 10 Baguettes in 2013

1. Au Paradis du Gourmand, 156 Rue Raymond Losserand, 75014

2. Boulangerie Raphaëlle, 1 rue Feutrier, 75018

3. Boulangerie Damiani, 125 avenue du Clichy, 75017

4. Christian Vabret, 27 rue Francois Miron, 75004

5. Maison Cailleaud, 104 Cours de Vincennes, 75012

6. Yosuké Fijié from Maison Landemeine, 56 rue du Clichy, 75009

7. Dominique Saibron, 77 avenue du Géneral Leclerc, 75014

8. Le Grenier à Pain Lafayette, 91 rue Faubourg Poissonière, 75009

9. La Parisienne, 12 rue Coustou, 75018

10. Claude Besnier, 40 rue du Bourgogne, 75007


Paris’ Top 10 Baguettes in 2012

1.  Boulangerie Mauvieux 159 rue Ordener, 75018

2. Raoul Maeder 111 boulevard Haussmann, 75008

3. Alexandre Chauvin, Boulangerie Audou, 10 rue de Chanzy, 75011

4. Dominique Anract, La Pompadour, 110 rue de la Tour, 75016

5. Arnaud Delmontel, 39 rue des Martyrs, 75009

6. Narcisse Pasquier and David Pasquereau, La Petite Marquise, 3 place Victor Hugo, 75016

7. Guillaume Delcourt, 100 rue Boileau, 75016

8. Eran Mayer, 100 rue du Théatre, 75015

9. Benjamin Turquier, 134 RdT, 134 rue de Turenne, 75003

10. Ludovic Jeanette, Les Saveurs de Wagram, 169 avenue de Wagram, 75017

 

Paris’ Top 10 Baguettes in 2011

1. Pascal Barillon, Au Levain d’Antan, 6 rue des Abbesses, 75018

2. Gaétan Romp, 14 rue de la Michodière, 75002

3. Pascal Jamin, Les Saveurs du 20ème, 120 rue de Bagnolet, 75020

4. Gontran Cherrier, 22 rue Caulaincourt, 75018

5. M. Risser, Le Fournil du Village, 12 place J.B. Clément, 75018

6. Gilles Levaslot, Les Gourmandises d’Eiffel, 187 rue de Grenelle, 75007

7. Jean-Noël Julien from Julien, 75 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001

8. Philippe Marache, 92 av de la République Paris, 75011

9. Philippe Bogner, 204 rue des Pyrénées, 75020

10. Le Grenier à Pain Saint-Amand, 33 bis rue Saint-Amand, 75015

 

A map of all winners from the past five years

[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=210780527856662539540.000482607ddeeed141859&ll=48.864263,2.340431&spn=0.126252,0.308647&z=12 width=500 height=400 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no] View a larger version of this map here.

Related reading

Our Guide to Craft Beer Bars

Craft beer bars in Paris

What the Icons Mean

An absolute favorite

Browse Other Categories

Restaurants

 

Bakeries and Pastry Shops

 

Wine Bars

 

Chocolate & Candy Shops

 

Ice Cream Shops

 

Cheese Shops

 

Specialty Shops

 

Cafés & Tea Salons

75001

Le Sous-Bock
Au Trappiste

75004

Les Dessous de Paris

75005

Académie de la Bière
Brewberry
L’Envol Québécois
Le Mayflower

75006

La Marine

75009

Dirty Dick
Glass

75011

La Fine Mousse 

75012

Express de Lyon 
Troll Café

75013

La Fût Gueuze

75014

Falstaff

75018

Le SuperCoin 

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Tour Options and Pricing

Ruth-Reichl-and-Nancy-Silverton-on-the-Tour-de-Fromage-cheese-tour1-e1384965454221

Small group tours – our group tours last three hours and cost 95€ per person, including all tastings. Tours are designed to be small and intimate. Check our calendar of availability to reserve your place on a small group tour – we usually have several offerings every day and you can book directly online.

Private tours – for those who’d like a more personalized experience, we offer customized private tours in Saint-Germain, the Marais, and the offbeat Aligre neighborhood of eastern Paris. For private tour rates and more information, please email us at tasteparisbymouth@gmail.com, letting us know the number of people in your party and the dates when you would be free to take a tour.

Click here to read what previous clients have said about our tours.

 

Gateau-Noel-a-la-Compagne-de-Pierre-Herme

The 2011 Bûches de Noël

We’re counting down the days until Christmas with a new Bûche de Noël every morning. We’ve also created this Bûche It video for those who want to dance along.

Today’s Bûche du Jour:

Bûche December 25: Crispy dark chocolate praline with a mousse and ganache made from Madagascar chocolate (Millot) on a chewy almond cookie base.

SourcePierre Hermé (90€ for 10/12 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Fa-la-l’archives

Bûche December 24: “Le Sapin” with caramelized almonds, orange rinds and raisins, all covered in chocolate.

SourcePatrick Roger (35€ for a 14cm tree)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 23: “Bûche Empereur” with coffee and mandarine orange, Moka Sidamo coffee cream, and Périgord walnut cream on a chewy walnut cookie base.

SourcePain de Sucre (32€ for 4 people; 48€ for 6 people; 64€ for 8 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 21: The “Bûche Boule de Noël” is composed of pear cream and chestnut mousse on a chewy dark chocolate cookie base.

SourceLadurée (77€ for 6/8 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 22: “Letter to Santa” cake with almond dacquoise, Madagascar vanilla mousse and a chocolate praline heart. Gluten free!

Source: (78€ for 8 people)

* * * * * * * * *


Bûche December 20: “La Bûche d’Yquem” is covered in gold leaf, scented with réglisse (licorice) and has a heart of dried apricot, lemon and hazelnut.

Source: Le Meurice (96€ for 5/6 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 19: “La Bûche Clémentine de Corse” with a crème brûlée scented with vanilla and clementine, enrobed by chestnut cream and decorated with clementine segments and candied clementine.

Source: Christophe Felder for the Publicis Drugstore (39€ for 6 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 18: “Bûche Lenôtre par Sempé” A creamy almond dacquoise, raspberry jelly, crispy praline and chocolate mousse.

Source: (125€ for 8-10 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 17: “Buche Equinoxe” with light Bourbon vanilla cream and salted butter caramel on a speculoos cookie base.

Source: La Pâtisserie by Cyril Lignac (40€ for 6/8 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 16: “Bûche Léopard” with dark chocolate mousse from Ghana (68% cacao) and coffee crème brûlée.

SourceEric Kayser (48€ for 6 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 15: “Snow Choc” with mango and candied lemon with whipped white chocolate cream covered in vanilla marzipan.

SourceFauchon (90€ for 6 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 14: “Extrêmement Ludique” with salted butter caramel, caramel cream, and dark chocolate mousse on a cookie base, all enrobed in caramel glaçage.

SourceChristophe Roussel (22€ for 4 people; 33€ for 6 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 13: “Monts et Merveilles” with praline mousse studded with caramelized hazelnuts, topped with hazelnut meringue.

SourceArnaud Lahrer (51€ for 6 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 12: “Bûche Violette” with white chocolate and vanilla mousse perfumed by violet.

SourceDominique Saibron (24€ for 4 people; 47€ for 12 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 11: “Merveilleuse fruitée” with wild strawberry and a mousse of Madagascar chocolate.

SourceMichel Cluizel (54€ for 6 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 10: The cake on the left features dark chocolate from Cuba, caramel panacotta, almond nougatine upon a chocolate hazelnut cookie base. The cake on the right has white chocolate, lime, and pistachio nougatine.

SourcePierre Marcolini (30€ for 4 people; 45€ for 6 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 9: “Contes de Noël” by Christophe Michalak with Corsican mandarine marmalade and semi-sweet ganache on an almond cookie base, all wrapped in marzipan.

SourceLa Plaza Athénée (125€ for 8 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 8: “Ombre et Lumière” with pure Venezuelan (Sur Del Lago) chocolate mousse upon a chewy chocolate cookie base.

SourcePierre Hermé (125€ for 10/12 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 7: The “bûche drapée” has hazelnut dacquoise with both milk & dark chocolate mousse upon an almond cookie with cherry compote and raspberry gelée.

SourceJean-Paul Hévin (34€ for 6 people; 44€ for 8 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 6: Chestnut dacquoise with black current cream, chestnut paste & candied chestnuts

SourceDes Gateaux et du Pain (38€ for 4 people; 68€ for 8 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 5: “Voie Lactée” with hazelnut dacquoise, caramel & chocolate

SourceUn Dimanche à Paris (38€)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 4: “Infuzzz” with dark chocolate with chewy cookies and a compote with citrus and Bourbon vanilla

Source: Richart (30€ for 3/4 people; 40€ for 5/6 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 3: “Eclat d’or” with light marscapone cream, praline, chocolate rice krispies, & dark chocolate cream

Source: Dalloyau (72€ for 6 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 2: “Magie de Paris” with 22 carat gold covering the dark chocolate Paris monuments. The cake inside the cage is dark chocolate mousse with Bourbon vanilla cream, cherry compote and sacher cookie on a base of marzipan with cherry pulp.

Source: La Maison du Chocolat (119€ for 6-8 people)

* * * * * * * * *

Bûche December 1: “Bûche Or Noir” with an almond cookie base, caramelized hazelnuts, buckwheat scented dark chocolate mousse and caramelized pecan & vanilla mousse.

Source: Café Pouchkine (49€ for 6 people)

* * * * * * * * *

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