Just north of Grands Boulevards, this fashionable address is serving aged beef, stiff cocktails, and many varieties (some of them good) of frites.
Why I Went: I heard that this new place, which opened at the end of October, was serving great cocktails, aged beef and, according to My Little Paris, “Les meilleures frites de Paris.”
My Experience: If you’re going to build your brand around fried potatoes, those frites had better be damn near perfect. In fact, they were fine, but not more than fine..
The main issue wasn’t quality, though, it was quantity. I hate to sound like a greedy American, but thirteen sticks are not enough to accompany a steak, and lining them up this way looks either fashionable or frugal. I crave neither when it comes to fries.
We tried three varieties in total, and I would be remiss if I didn’t say that the polenta fries were excellent. Our table was divided regarding the quality of the beef (matured 3-5 weeks) – I liked mine a lot and would be happy to pay more than the 27€ charged if it were accompanied by a less laughable lineup of starch.
On the bright side: all of the staff with whom we interacted were extremely friendly (and young, and beautiful). The cocktails were good, especially when Charlie Brock (ex-Ballroom) was making them. The space was lovely – we four occupied a large and comfortable booth for several hours (did I mention the cocktails were good?).
Would I Go Back? Absolutely. The manager seemed genuinely interested in our experience and that of the other clients, and he acknowledged that there are some kinks to work out. It’s not there yet, but I think that in a few weeks this place will have improved dramatically. They seem sincere. For those who are looking for a place with a lot of style, and who care a touch more about scene than sustenance, this will be a good launching pad for a big night out.
A Few More Details: The menu includes plenty of beef (pièce de boucher, côte de boeuf for 2, tartare), plus andouillette and several seafood options (mussels, squid, steamed cod). Plats range in price from 16-27€. Vegetables are available instead of fries. Cocktails are classic – negronis & old-fashioneds, bucks & mules, juleps & smashes – and range from 11-14€. Our bill, excluding all alcohol, came to around 30€ per person without any starters and sharing 2 desserts among four people.
For additional details, including address & hours see our guide page to Maison F.
A Few More Photos: