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The Daily Bite: L’Epicuriste, Liza, and magical pâté

By On May 26, 2011
  • Talbott has lunch at the under-new-management Le Boudoir, summing it up as “very pleasant, but no sparks.” [John Talbott's Paris] But maybe he ordered wrong, because Philippe Toinard says the pâté en croute of guinea fowl, duck, and foie gras, will “turn you upside-down and leave you flat on your ass,” [Gout de News] and Emmanuel Rubin compares the same dish to “a mischievous whirling dervish.” [Figaroscope] That is some pâté.
  • Pudlo, on his way to catch another train, has a less hallucinatory but satisfying lunch at L’Epicuriste. The carpaccio of tête de veau, and bavette with shallots are “dishes of character,” and the desserts are “pretty” and “classic.” [Gilles Pudlowski]
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The Daily Bite: Montmartre, where the streets are paved with bread

By On May 4, 2011
  • In the last five years, bakeries in the 18th have scored more top ten placements (24%, to be geek about it) than any other arrondissement. The poor residents of the 8th, where there are zero top-ranking bakeries, must content themselves with nibbling upon gold bars.
  • Caroline Mignot explains the qualities that she and other jury members were looking for in a good baguette: a proud and distinguished appearance, a crunchy crust, and a fairly dense crumb with some acidity. [Table à Découvert] Phyllis Flick wrote a similar account (in English) in 2010. [Paris Notebook]
  • Baker/heartthrob Benjamin Turquier was thrown out, along with 37 other candidates, for presenting a baguette that wasn’t long enough. We’re going to assume that it was cold that morning.
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