Tag Archives: good for game

Au Petit Marguery

A delightfully unmodernized table, especially good in game season, when you’ll find roast partridge, grouse, wild duck, and lièvre à la royale. Finish with the Grand Marnier soufflé.

Practical information

Address: 9 boulevard de Port Royal, 75013
Nearest transport: Gobelins (7)
Hours: Monday-Saturday, lunch and dinner; Sunday, dinner only.
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 43 31 58 59
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, bistro
Website

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2009) “…what most Americans (including ourselves) must consider ‘the’ quintessential French/Paris restaurant – red velvet banquettes, brass fixtures, waiters in black and white…They had three kinds of game today, including lievre royale and grouse…generous and most excellent…”

Le Figaro (2007) “Lièvre à la royale: plaisir vampire. Soufflé Grand Marnier: incontournable…”

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A la Biche au Bois by Barbra Austin

A la Biche au Bois

You’ll find hearty cocottes at this neighborhood favorite, accompanied by piles of purée or frites. Finish with ripe cheese and a gigantic ile flottante, and then roll home.

Practical information

Address: 45 avenue Ledru-Rollin, 75012
Nearest transport: Gare de Lyon (1, 14, RER A)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday; closed Monday lunch.
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 43 34 38
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

A Tabula (2014) “Au programme : nappes épaisses, lourds couverts dans une ambiance mi populaire-mi bourgeoise. Comptez une vingtaine d’euros pour un menu qui fait la part belle aux terrines, rilettes, gibiers en saison, coq au vin, andouillette… Une jolie adresse dont on ferait volontiers sa cantine.”

David Lebovitz (2010) “…hearty and honest French fare….a very respectable Coq au vin. In the dinged-up casserole, you’ll need to drag the spoon through the thick, dark sauce to pluck out a piece of chicken…The fries are some of the best in Paris.”

John Talbott (2009) “…our friend had coq au vin that was about as good as I’ve had since Chez Rene’s went south, and I reveled in the thickly sliced almost raw biche (cooked to my liking despite no instructions) with a rich sauce and a chestnut puree and a ton of (so so) frites…”

Barbra Austin (2009) “What it is:  A neighborhood restaurant between the Gare de Lyon and Bastille serving generous portions of hearty, traditional dishes, heavy on the game, with deep bowls of potato purée and piles of frites. What it’s not: expensive…”

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Le Repaire de Cartouche by Meg Zimbeck

Le Repaire de Cartouche

Chef Rodolphe Paquin continues to gets high marks for simple, hearty food and massive wine list. In May 2014, he transformed the lower dining room (entrance on rue Amelot) into a wine bar specializing in terrines and small plates to accompany.

Practical information

Address: 8 boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, 75011
Nearest transport: St. Sebastian Froissart (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 47 00 25 86
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

Jérôme Berger – l’Express (2009) “…ce troquet ‘tradi’ sert sur un plateau le gibier, en saison s’il vous plaît. Pas avant ni après…”

David Lebovitz (2009) “…it’s sad to see the dining room staff not take pride in the food they were offering, and not do even a halfway-decent job serving it. It’s especially unfortunate when the kitchen is working so hard to make such great food…”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “I’ve had several complaints about the service at Le Repaire de Cartouche and also at Mon Vieil Ami, and so I’m putting both restaurants on a watch list…”

Barbra Austin (2009) “Fungi popped up all over the menu…Tiny mousserons were piled atop a tender veal loin.  Minced champignons in mustard and cream sauced a venison chop…A roasted pheasant breast was handily upstaged by the mix of diced cèpes and cabbage that accompanied it…”

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Philou by Meg Zimbeck

Philou

Chef Philippe Damas is showcasing the season’s best ingredients (porcinis, partridges) at this bistro near the Canal Saint-Martin.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 12 avenue Richerand, 75010
Nearest transport: Jacques Bonsergent (5)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 42 38 00 13
Average price for lunch: 20-34 €
Average price for dinner: 20-34 €
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, comfort food, good for game, outdoor dining

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2011) “Des plats de marché bien accompagnés…Pas de régime mineur, c’est enlevé de l’entrée au dessert, avec un service efficace qui maîtrise ses tablées.”

Aaron Ayscough (2011) “…a winningly sharp, modern bistro…while all the other criteria for success are certainly in place – well-priced natural wines, a solid market menu, the nearby canal – it was the engaged, reactive service that was the runaway highlight of a recent meal there.”

Patricia Wells (2011) “Damas offers old-time ingredients – like pig’s cheeks and calf’s liver – and serves them up with a simplicity and freshness that is thoroughly appealing.”

Alexander Lobrano (2010) “If this bistro was in my neighborhood in the 9th, I’d eat here all the time. One way or another, it finds a solid place on my to-go list, especially since it’s also a very good buy.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “…a fantastic chef-owned bistro offering good seasonal cooking at very reasonable prices…A generous sauté of early cepes, well-seasoned and brightened with herbs and a splash of vinegar justified its supplemental charge…crisp skinned chicken was almost upstaged by the accompanying girolles…”

John Talbott (2010) “One is always looking in vain for good places near the terribly branche Canal St Martin since the late, great Garance closed and this could well be it.”

Bruno Verjus (2010) “Philippe, dit Philou est l’ami des produits et des vignerons…Les plats et dessert régalent et osent le classicisme avec un tartare bien troussé, un délicieux poulet rôti ou un rare baba au rhum…”

 

 

 

 

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Chez Grenouille by Meg Zimbeck

Chez Grenouille

An address for old school charcuterie and meat of all kinds.

Practical information

Address: 52 rue Blanche, 75009
Nearest transport: Trinité (12) or Liege (13)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday-Friday; dinner only on Saturday; closed Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 42 81 34 07
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: market-based cooking, good for game , nose to tail eating, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2010) ” Though the quality of the meal was much better-than-average overall…this is a very sad spot in which to have a meal.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “…house-made terrines and high cholesterol…”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “ouvert par…Alexis Blanchard, qui a pris avec lui tous ses prix, de meilleur boudin, pied de porc à la cassine, tête pressée, terrine, ouvre ses entrailles pour vous donner le meilleur de ce qui serait presque considéré comme impolitiquement correct aujourd’hui…

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2010) “… Les végétariens détalent, les autres se régalent.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “Les quatre syllabes de « charcuterie » auraient suffi…les ris, les tripes, la tourte, les terrines, la gueule de veau gribiche, la queue de bœuf…”

John Talbott (2010) “… a great idea in pretty much of a culinary desert.”

 

 

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Chez Michel by Meg Zimbeck

Chez Michel

This Breton bistrominique near the Gare du Nord serves a four course feast featuring dishes that are baked in a massive dining room oven.

  An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 10 rue de Belzunce, 75010
Nearest transport: Poissonière (7)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 44 53 06 20
Average price for lunch: 50-100€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, Breton
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, good for game, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Aaron Ayscough (2013) “It’s in a fine groove right now, having attained an effortless sweet-spot consisting of informal service, an idiosyncratic, well-priced wine list, and a menu rendered exotic for its unswerving devotion to Bretonne country-cooking.”

Patricia Wells (2011) “…impeccable ingredients, some of the best baked-on-premises bread in town…and a blackboard menu that’s so varied, every diner should find something to satisfy…the downside: While Chez Michel used to be known for its well-priced menus, I was shocked to see the 50-euro price tag on the blackboard menu…”

Meg Zimbeck (2011) “The new oven enables Breton to collect and use the crazy delicious jus as condiment. There’s a flagrant drizzle of these roasting juices atop his starter of scrambled, truffled eggs, but their profoundly comforting flavor permeates other dishes as well.”

Bruno Verjus (2011) “Petite soupe de poisson, en mise en bouche, pour les embruns du feu frais safran. Ormeau grillé, ail, persil et racines à la texture délicate et tendre. Lotte au feu du four en croûte feuilletée. Une gourmandise d’un autre temps. L’on en vient à rêver de vagues et de grains s’abattant sur ce Paris en manque d’iode.”

Meg Zimbeck (2010) “My fourth visit on a frozen December evening was nearly perfect…A moderate eater can be perfectly happy with the standard three-course €32 menu. A gastronomic god…can splurge on rare and expensive treats and spend more than €160…”

Jerome Berger- L’Express (2009) “L’authenticité se lit sur les murs de cette maison… Côté assiette, cela donne un lièvre à la royale dont les filets sont juste rosés à la minute…”

 

 

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Bistro Volnay by Barbra Austin

Bistro Volnay

Heavy silver, plush carpeting, and swanky art deco decor give the Volnay plenty of adult sophistication.

Practical information

Address: 8 rue Volney, 75002
Nearest transport: Opéra (3, 7, 8 )
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 61 06 65
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, French bistro
Special attributes: prix-fixe, excellent cheese course, good for game, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2012) “…ce bistrot d’élite valse régulièrement avec les chefs. En espérant donc que se maintienne le petit dernier, puisé au filon nippon, ancien de l’excellent Stella Maris et fameux de maîtrise dans son genre néoclassique.”

John Talbott (2012) “…The place still looks lovely with its 1932 lights over the bar, deep interior and bright ambiance…petit pois soup…salmon confited with citrus fruit…foie gras with dried fruit chutney…pigs’ feet, parmesan and cured ham; all were great.”

JohnTalbott (2010) “…started with three of the finest scallops I’ve ever had; I had a soup of millions of shellfish reduced to a delicious creamy smooth soup…We had two classic desserts, both of which were perfect: a Grand Marnier souffle and crepes with Grand Marnier.”

Alexander Lobrano (2010) “Aside from Dufroux’s very good contemporary French bistro cooking…what I love about this place is that it proves that hip young Parisians really do know and like good food beyond the identikit menus at the Costes Brothers tentacular empire.”

Barbra Austin via Girls’ Guide to Paris (2010) “good enough to visit regularly and elegant enough for a special occasion.”

John Talbott (2010) “The Bistro Volnay is a place I’ve been to 3 times in as many years under 3 different chefs…”I approached the place with trepidation – fancy entry, all suits and ties and all men, most (around us) speaking English, an imposing menu, with hefty supplements for anything not on the “menu.”

François Simon – Le Figaro (2010) “…un bistrot que nous avions adoré lors de son lancement…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “…une vraie belle allure de bistrot qui tamise en volumes contemporains le Paris des années 1920-1930-1940…”

John Talbott (2009) “There was nothing wrong, just nothing really great.”

 

 

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La Cerisaie by Barbra Austin

La Cerisaie

Closet-sized La Cerisaie serves southwestern cuisine. Foie gras abounds.

Practical information

Address: 70 boulevard Edgar-Quinet, 75014
Nearest transport: Montparnasse-Bienvenüe (4, 6, 12, 13) or Edgar Quinet (6)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 20 98 98
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: French, Southwestern

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2012) “…still has an astonishingly comprehensive carte plus 4 specials; something for everyone…We argued among ourselves as to who got the best starter; all were superb…desserts were terrific as well…”

Barbra Austin (2009) “… started with the chestnut soup and an oeuf cocotte in porcini cream, a rich shot of earth and cholesterol with tiny buttery croutons.  I ordered the palombe and my friend had the Parmentier de civiet de sanglier…The food is rich but chef Cyrill Lalanne dishes it up judiciously, opting neither to kill his diners with excess nor charge them excessively for the privilege…”

TimeOut “Nothing about La Cerisaie’s unprepossessing red façade hints at the talent that lurks inside…”

Figaroscope (2008) “À peine plus de vingt couverts, un cadre qui se laisse oublier, l’essentiel se jouant davantage ici dans l’assiette que dans la déco…”

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