It’s that time of year again: time for us to appreciate the variety and beauty of wild animals… with our mouths. Time to taste of the bunny, the bambi, the boar, and the buckshot. Bite down carefully, and bite here, at the following selection of game-savvy restaurants preferred by our gang of contributing advisors.
You’ll find hearty classics at this bustling neighborhood spot. Start with oeufs-mayonnaise, celery root remoulade, or a housemade terrine. Continue with a cast iron casserole of Coq-au-vin or wild boar with chestnuts, accompanied by piles of purée or frites. Finish with ripe cheese and a gigantic ile flottante. Roll home.
Chef Philippe Damas is showcasing the season’s best ingredients (porcinis, partridges) at this this beautiful new bistro near the Canal Saint-Martin. An affordable prix-fixe menu with interesting and inexpensive wines.
A delightfully unmodernized table, especially good in game season, when you’ll find roast partridge, grouse, wild duck, and lièvre à la royale. Finish with the Grand Marnier soufflé. Lunch menus at 23 and 26€, dinner at 30€ and 35€.
An address for old school charcuterie and meat of all kinds, sorely in need of redecoration.
This Breton bistrominique near the Gare du Nord serves a four-course feast featuring dishes that are baked in a massive dining room oven. A bit pricey, as far as homey bistros go, but worth the splurge.
It’s definitely a bistro, but the heavy silver, plush carpeting, and swanky art deco decor — not to mentioned the crepes that are flamed tableside — give the Volnay plenty of adult sophistication. Solo diners might enjoy dining at one of the comfortable bar seats.
Closet-sized La Cerisaie serves southwestern cuisine, meaning you can have a side of foie gras with your foie gras, and that your baba will be with Armagnac instead of rum.
L’Epigramme was taken over by new owners in the fall of 2010. It remains one of the more reasonably priced bistros in the neighborhood, but reviews of the food have been mixed.
Chef Rodolphe Paquin gets high marks for his hearty, seasonal cooking and massive wine list. The service, however, has gotten mixed reviews.
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A Year in the Mouth
