Tag Archives: good for game

Au Petit Marguery

A delightfully unmodernized table, especially good in game season, when you’ll find roast partridge, grouse, wild duck, and lièvre à la royale. Finish with the Grand Marnier soufflé.

Practical information

Address: 9 boulevard de Port Royal, 75013
Nearest transport: Gobelins (7)
Hours: Monday-Saturday, lunch and dinner; Sunday, dinner only.
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 43 31 58 59
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, bistro
Website

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2009) “…what most Americans (including ourselves) must consider ‘the’ quintessential French/Paris restaurant – red velvet banquettes, brass fixtures, waiters in black and white…They had three kinds of game today, including lievre royale and grouse…generous and most excellent…”

Le Figaro (2007) “Lièvre à la royale: plaisir vampire. Soufflé Grand Marnier: incontournable…”

A la Biche au Bois by Barbra Austin

A la Biche au Bois

You’ll find hearty cocottes at this neighborhood favorite, accompanied by piles of purée or frites. Finish with ripe cheese and a gigantic ile flottante, and then roll home.

Practical information

Address: 45 avenue Ledru-Rollin, 75012
Nearest transport: Gare de Lyon (1, 14, RER A)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday; closed Monday lunch.
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 43 34 38
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

A Tabula (2014) “Au programme : nappes épaisses, lourds couverts dans une ambiance mi populaire-mi bourgeoise. Comptez une vingtaine d’euros pour un menu qui fait la part belle aux terrines, rilettes, gibiers en saison, coq au vin, andouillette… Une jolie adresse dont on ferait volontiers sa cantine.”

David Lebovitz (2010) “…hearty and honest French fare….a very respectable Coq au vin. In the dinged-up casserole, you’ll need to drag the spoon through the thick, dark sauce to pluck out a piece of chicken…The fries are some of the best in Paris.”

John Talbott (2009) “…our friend had coq au vin that was about as good as I’ve had since Chez Rene’s went south, and I reveled in the thickly sliced almost raw biche (cooked to my liking despite no instructions) with a rich sauce and a chestnut puree and a ton of (so so) frites…”

Barbra Austin (2009) “What it is:  A neighborhood restaurant between the Gare de Lyon and Bastille serving generous portions of hearty, traditional dishes, heavy on the game, with deep bowls of potato purée and piles of frites. What it’s not: expensive…”

Chez Grenouille by Meg Zimbeck

Chez Grenouille

An address for old school charcuterie and meat of all kinds.

Practical information

Address: 52 rue Blanche, 75009
Nearest transport: Trinité (12) or Liege (13)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday-Friday; dinner only on Saturday; closed Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 42 81 34 07
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: market-based cooking, good for game , nose to tail eating, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2010) ” Though the quality of the meal was much better-than-average overall…this is a very sad spot in which to have a meal.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “…house-made terrines and high cholesterol…”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “ouvert par…Alexis Blanchard, qui a pris avec lui tous ses prix, de meilleur boudin, pied de porc à la cassine, tête pressée, terrine, ouvre ses entrailles pour vous donner le meilleur de ce qui serait presque considéré comme impolitiquement correct aujourd’hui…

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2010) “… Les végétariens détalent, les autres se régalent.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “Les quatre syllabes de « charcuterie » auraient suffi…les ris, les tripes, la tourte, les terrines, la gueule de veau gribiche, la queue de bœuf…”

John Talbott (2010) “… a great idea in pretty much of a culinary desert.”

 

 

La Cerisaie by Barbra Austin

La Cerisaie

Closet-sized La Cerisaie serves southwestern cuisine. Foie gras abounds.

Practical information

Address: 70 boulevard Edgar-Quinet, 75014
Nearest transport: Montparnasse-Bienvenüe (4, 6, 12, 13) or Edgar Quinet (6)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 20 98 98
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: French, Southwestern

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2012) “…still has an astonishingly comprehensive carte plus 4 specials; something for everyone…We argued among ourselves as to who got the best starter; all were superb…desserts were terrific as well…”

Barbra Austin (2009) “… started with the chestnut soup and an oeuf cocotte in porcini cream, a rich shot of earth and cholesterol with tiny buttery croutons.  I ordered the palombe and my friend had the Parmentier de civiet de sanglier…The food is rich but chef Cyrill Lalanne dishes it up judiciously, opting neither to kill his diners with excess nor charge them excessively for the privilege…”

TimeOut “Nothing about La Cerisaie’s unprepossessing red façade hints at the talent that lurks inside…”

Figaroscope (2008) “À peine plus de vingt couverts, un cadre qui se laisse oublier, l’essentiel se jouant davantage ici dans l’assiette que dans la déco…”