Aux Verres de Contact is an annex of the well-regarded Jadis, where Guillaume Délage has won acclaim for his researched, old-meets-new bistro cooking. But: This is not quite that.
- A lesser critic would say that Bertrand Grébaut is hot. Alec Lobrano says that his cooking style evokes the just-awakened sensuality depicted by Colette in The Ripening Seed…
- John Talbott gives Le Grand B a big F-U after receiving hard pink tomatoes (in September) and a tasteless pile of roasted bird…
- Jérôme Berger says that Aux Verres de Contact is toothless and too expensive…
- Rosa Jackson chokes up when she tastes the hot chocolate with oyster emulsion at Jean-Paul Hévin…
- Pudlo tests the new chef at Agapé, Rubin disses Delage at Aux Verres de Contact, and Coohoon calls Top Chef semi-finalist Brice Morvent a future heavyweight…
- Alexander Lobrano heaps more praise on wine bar Au Passage, loving the service — “this crew really seems to enjoy what they do and in sharing it,” — and the menu of “delicious cameos of James Henry’s fertile culinary imagination.” Aux Verres de Contact, on the other hand, leaves him lukewarm: Service was “distracted and absent minded,” and “seventeen euros seemed like an awful lot of money for a couple of fried eggs with ratatouille and a few slices of smoked tuna.” [Alexander Lobrano]
Hearsay
- Guillaume Delage, the chef behind Jadis, has something new in the works. Aux Verres de Contact will open in April in the 6th and will feature, as the name suggests, a menu based around the wine. [Cuit-Cuit]
Happy Plates
- How nice that Patricia Wells, who has written a best-selling book
about Italian cookery, also loves the truffle cream pizza from Al Taglio. “The crust is thick and airy, the kind of chewy, long-rise dough my Italian mother used to make…” I didn’t need her seal of approval to justify my addiction, but it helps. [Patricia Wells]
- François Simon says that Isami (which seems to have escaped Nidra’s notice, see below) is without a doubt still the best sushi restaurant in Paris. [Simon Says]
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