Thank the baby Jesus and those three kings who traveled to meet him, it’s time again for the galette des rois! Our local experts have selected their favorite sources for the Kings’ Cake in Paris and crowned their own royalty, beginning with Christophe Vasseur of Du Pain et Des Idées.
Aaron Ayscough on the good new Verre Volé, François Simon on the good old Beurre Noisette, Bruno Verjus on the bad old Café de Flore, and Adam Wayda with another high-calorie pastry post. These and other stories in today’s Bite…
- Patricia Wells has no love for Cyril Lignac. Of her recent meal at Chardenoux des Pres, she says “Every dish was a disaster, void of taste, texture, personality.” She also suspects that the “chipirons” (pictured) were actually the much cheaper cuttlefish. [Patricia Wells]
- Even our gentle Bruno struggles with Aux Verres de Contact Aux Verres de Contact. After being seated at a “rickety” table and paying an “onerous” sum for food that was “neither good nor bad,” he asks himself: “À quoi cela rime d’ouvrir un restaurant, un de plus, qui n’apporte rien à la cause de la cuisine et de la gastronomie.” In other words: Why bother? [Food Intelligence]
- The Frenchie wine bar is open, yo. More soon.
- Patricia Wells says that Laurent is “the sort of rare restaurant that makes Paris Paris,” with its historic setting, a 30,000 bottle cellar, and “dishes made in heaven.” The 85€ lunch, she says, “is hard to beat in terms of value and pure pleasure.” [Patricia Wells]
- Pudlo revisits Goumard, which was a runner up in our consideration of Five Great spots for oysters, and finds it to be more relaxed and affordable now. Oh, and also: the seafood spot is now also serving meat. [Gilles Pudlowski]
- Adam admits to bouts of bipolar disorder brought on by the consumption of Tanzanian chocolate, and prescribes H&V’s Hugo Arabica to anyone who might be experiencing similar symptoms. “If I were just eating Tanzanian cacao by itself, I’d be sitting there saying, “I can taste all the high and low notes, but where’s the rest? What’s happening in my mouth?!” And with this piece, instead of feeling like my tongue is going insane, the coffee comes to the rescue.” [Paris Patisseries]
Happy Plates
- Despite worries about balky service and some trouble in discerning the chef’s own signature, Alec Lobrano says the new restaurant Kei “evidences a serious generational renewal in Paris’s gastronomic landscape–now it’s not only the city’s bistros that are being rebooted for a new century, but it’s gray-flannel tables as well.” [Hungry for Paris]
- Pudlo visits Les Bistronomes, cites Demorand for his wordplay, and praises the pigs’ foot parmentier (see also Rubin, Talbott). He does wonder, though, if Demorand’s term “bistronomy” applies in a place where à la carte prices can reach €60 at dinner. [Gilles Pudlowski]
Happy Plates
- Alexander Lobrano has a budding crush on Le Pantruche, recalling coddled eggs and salt cod, foie gras, and feathered caps. His soufflé fell flat and the rice pudding was soggy, but he still gives the new bistro a B+. He also raves over the Shanghai style grilled dumplings at Q-TEA. [Hungry for Paris]
- Patricia Wells‘ latest review, which promises “a calming Zen moment,” may cause you to cancel your next spa day in favor of lunch at Toyo. [Patricia Wells]
Pastry chef Hugues Pouget gives classic and seasonal flavors dueling personalities – the innovative Hugo and more classic Victor – in this sleek boutique. Macarons, chocolates, and breakfast treats are on offer, too.
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A Year in the Mouth
