Sweet Teeth
- Adam defends one of the neglected middle children of the Ladurée pastry family, delighting in the textural contrasts of the Harmonie. “Sticky, chewy, lightly dry shell vs. buttery crème vs. bursting fruits. All are at odds and yet so beautifully in-tune – like the curious clothing selections of the American hipster. Those neon yellow Chuck Taylors, skin-tight acid-washed jeans, and seafoam green glasses really DO go together . . . somehow.” [Paris Pâtisseries]
Upcoming Events
- After their recent 100% Végétal event, Omnivore is returning to tackle the hog. The 100% Cochon dinner on Monday April 11th will feature Julien Duboué (Afaria, Dans les Landes), Sébastien de la Borde, and a whole lotta pig parts. The €35 price includes a glass of bubbles to begin. Reservations here.
Happy Plates
- The hand-thrown noodles and spicy “crevettes touchant le ciel” at Les Pâte Vivantes make Patricia Wells kiss the sky. [Patricia Wells]
A salade landaise served as a spring roll, mini croissants with truffles and ham, sardine rillettes, crisp polenta with smoked duck: This new address from Julien Duboué of Afaria serves up a lengthy list of creative tapas for gourmand grazing.
Happy Plates
- Caroline Mignot takes a crack at Le Casse Noix, praising the generosity, simplicity and sincerity of the 32€ lunch menu. The grilled Iberian pork with a side tartiflette sounds like a delicious prelude to a nap. “A good deal for the neighborhood” around the Eiffel Tower, she rightly notes. [Table à Découvert]
- Sébastien Demorand advises the yum and the slurp at Dans les Landes, the place from Julien Duboué (Afaria), aka “Camdeborde, Jr.” Lacquered short ribs, fried squid and other tapas from 20-40€. [Cuit-Cuit]
Julien Duboué serves up bold Basque flavors at this modern bistro in the 15th.
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A Year in the Mouth
