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The Daily Bite: The pleasures of pain

By On May 19, 2011
  • The Fig has baked up a bundle of bread content this week. First, a handy who’s who of Paris bakers, with profiles of eight of the city’s best boulangers — not quite enough for a calendar — from Appolonia Poilâne and her family legacy to the “petits buns” of Gontran Cherrier (ahem), to Christophe Vasseur and his “pain des amis”. [Le Figaro]
  • François-Régis Gaudry is “having some difficulty joining the collective ‘Eureka’” around newcomer Braisenville, a Spanish-ish spot where almost everything is grilled. He likes the ceviche of sardines and the sweetbreads, but the thinly sliced beef was “luke warm, even cold, and limp,” and the vegetables, under the “scandinavo-passardienne” influence, are “clearly not cooked enough.” Dessert? “Ca fait pschittt à la première cuillérée,” which doesn’t mean what you might think it does, but isn’t much better. [Et Toque!]
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The Daily Bite: Rats, Can (of Whiskey), RAP

By On January 19, 2011

Trends

  • The vermin are back. Paris’ préfecture de Police has reported a significant increase in the number of complaints about rats, which are estimated by exterminators to number six million in the metropolitan area. [eVous]

Happy Plates

  • Emmanuel Rubin gives (out of 4) to Le Pantruche and praises the same dish – coddled egg on a bed of baby leeks – that Alec Lobrano loved last week [Le Figaro]. Pudlo offers a photo of the egg in question and calls Le Pantruche “cheap, fun, fresh, and well done.” [Gilles Pudlowski]
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Our Guide to Paris: La Bodeguita du IVème

By On December 26, 2010

This laid-back, (loosely) Spanish-themed natural wine bar serves up natural wines and small plates in a barely decorated space on an old street near Les Halles. Wines to go, too.

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Taste of Paris: Pork rainbow

By On September 1, 2010

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