- After eighteen months of meticulously documenting the work of Paris pastry chefs, Adam has finally had a pastry created in his honor – L’Ami Caouette at Un Dimanche à Paris. As a nod to Adam’s American heritage, Quentin Bailly incorporated peanut butter into an otherwise very apricot dessert. He then topped it with a tiny clitoris. [Paris Pâtisseries]
- Alan Richman reveals an important new trend called bistronomy and credits Daniel Rose with starting the revolution. Other gems within this epic 5,500 word essay about Paris dining: the rue de Nil (where Frenchie sits) is “creepy.” Basque culture is “quirky.” Senderens is a “bistro”. L’Agrume is “new”. And the euro, that arrogant currency, is “overblown”. [GQ]
- John Talbott is careful not to bump his head on the exposed beams at the old-school L’Auberge Café, where an entrecôte with fries and pig’s foot terrine “sound ordinary; they were anything but.” [John Talbott's Paris]
- Meg revisits L’Agrume and finds that “nothing had changed. Except the fact that we were now surrounded by English speakers,” which she attributes to a NYT piece that ran last year. “It should not be a destination for food-minded visitors to Paris,” she says (emphasis hers), adding that “smoked mozzarella with Roma tomatoes and basil oil is not something that people cross the ocean to eat.” [Meg Zimbeck]
This contemporary bistro was seriously hyped in its early days, thanks in part to the 37€, five-course menu and a young chef with a great resumé, and perhaps novelty of a middle-of-nowhere location, deep in the fifth. One to consider if you’re in the neighborhood.
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A Year in the Mouth
