- Alexander Lobrano struggles to find something nice to say about Camélia, the ‘second’ table of the just opened Mandarin Oriental hotel. An “earthy, old-fashioned and profoundly Gallic” beef terrine is impeccable, but everything else merits either faint praise or disdain. He leaves with a bill of €200 and questions about what a ‘second’ restaurant in a luxury hotel should really be. [Hungry for Paris]
- Aaron Ayscough takes a passing swipe at the recent wave of articles about Mexican restaurants in Paris, then visits Itacate - one of the more passable joints – to review their vino Mexicano. The L.A. Cetto 2009 Chenin tastes like old nothing – “no acid, flimsy inexpressive fruit, just a generalised wine-ishness. But this sort of thing is less a wine than a Jarritos-like product, just meant to add atmosphere.” [Not Drinking Poison in Paris]
Happy Plates
- “Qu’est-ce que c’est bon,” says Caroline Mignot about the linguine with shrimp and zucchini at Caffe dei Cioppi, an address perhaps best appreciated in warm weather, when “the terrace is prettily put to use on the little paved passage.” For what it’s worth, the Italian friend she was dining with proclaimed the pasta “almost as good” as her own. [Table à Découvert]
N’Importe Quoi
- It has come to our attention that there exists a bacon-scented cologne for men, called, naturally, Bacon, and available in Classic or Gold versions. It’s the work of a company called Fargginay, which is supposedly named after a Parisian butcher who believed the smell of bacon had mood-enhancing properties. This is either and elaborate and belated April fools hoax or a sign of the apocalypse. [Eater]
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A Year in the Mouth
