Taste: Squid and split peas
Restaurant: Le Verre Volé
Photo: Barbra Austin
More: Taste of Paris photo series
Judging by the listings in our own Guide to Paris, at least half of Paris restaurants are closed on Sunday. Visitors to Paris, including veteran restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila, are continually confounded by the number of closed doors on dimanche. To help our readers find options that are open, we created [...]
- Meg Z loves the “fresh tasting classic French cuisine” at Café des Musées: A “silky confit de canard with white beans…a perfectly cooked piece of turbot with Provençal veggies,” and, once, “a kilo of unadulterated cherries.” BUT her last visit was marred by “a dining room full of Anglos and a staff who seemed hugely annoyed by that fact.” Sounds like their current vacation came in the nick of time. [Meg Zimbeck]
Happy Plates
- Following Bruno Verjus, François-Régis Gaudry takes his turn at watching Demorand eat pork. “Regarde-moi cette charpie comme c’est beau… (Il met en bouche) l’assaisonnement est musclé, mordant. En bouche, tu vois, c’est grassouillet mais pas trop…” This latest episode (in what we hope will become a reality series) takes place at Le Verre Volé. [Et Toque!]
Hells No
- In his review of La Fidélité, Mr Lung asks “why bother trying to mix hipness and gastronomy in Paris, the city has been cursed for eons with the evil deeds of the likes of the Costes family, serving lab-made tasteless, chefless, shameless food to a blind crowd?” and then skewers André for worsening the situation… [Mr Lung]
Down the Hatch
- Aaron Ayscough visits the Renaissance des Appellations biodynamic wine tasting and stains his teeth with the wines of Nicolas Joly and other Steiner devotees. [Not Drinking Poison in Paris]
- Stuart Smith, in his latest post “Why I Resent Biodynamic Farming!” explains that vintners like Joly are trying to belittle him, divide the industry for marketing purposes, and that he didn’t want to go to their stupid party anyway. [Biodynamics is a Hoax]
- The Chinese government, which doesn’t give a Year of the Rat’s ass about any of this biodynamic stuff, has just purchased a château in Bordeaux and is setting up its own distribution network to ensure the supply from its favorite French wine region. [Wine Spectator]
This Verre Volé location is only a wine shop. For info on the resto – where you can also buy bottles – go here.
A bare bones room lined with shelves of natural wines, a tiny kitchen turning out simple and dishes; this doesn’t immediately feel like the kind of place a person would cross town for. And yet many do. Booking is imperative.
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