Happy Plates

• Alexander Lobrano confronts and enjoys his second-ever pigs’ foot at Citronelle & Galang, the new Vietnamese restaurant from the team behind Au Coin des Gourmets. He says he’ll be back often for the excellent rouleaux de douze legumes (veggie rolls) and chicken in fresh ginger sauce. [Hungry for Paris]

• Bruno Verjus salutes the “rêve gougère“ made by the bakery Bouché in the Place Monge. Measuring 11cm in diameter, stuffed with Comté cheese and sporting a manly stubble of whole grains, this is about as butch as pâte à choux can get. [Food Intelligence]

Sweet Teeth

• David Lebovitz, who isn’t one to rely on superlatives, says that the kouglof at Vandermeersch is “one of the all-time best things I’ve ever eaten, anywhere.” This bakery on the outskirts of the 12th makes the yeasted cakes only on the weekends (and maybe also on Friday) but D-Leb says says “you will not taste anything better in Paris.” The mayor’s office is organizing crowd control for the coming weekend as a result of this declaration. [David Lebovitz]