A new bistro near Pigalle serving dishes like roasted cod with fennel bulb carbonara or calf’s liver with onions and roasted garlic. Lunch for 18€ and dinner menus for 25€ and 32€.
Ingredient fetishists will appreciate Sven Chartier’s reverence for product, and devotees of natural wines will love Ewan Lemoigne’s list. The ingredients may be local, but there are nordic influences at play, too, both in the look of the place and in the pristine cooking, which borders — and sometimes crosses into — austerity. Warning: complaints about the service have been circulating…
Yves Camdeborde’s beloved bistro, once neo and now classic. Book months in advance for weeknight, no-choice dinner, or just queue up at lunch or weekends for the so-called “brasserie menu”, a free-for-all that can feel a bit like a tourist zoo at times. At worst, it’s sloppy and hectic. At best, it’s delicious.
Book many weeks in advance for a seat at this fantastic table d’hotes, run by a young American couple in their apartment near Palais Royal. Ten courses, including bubbly and wine pairings. OCTOBER 2011: Hidden Kitchen has closed, but you can find the pair at their new venture, Verjus.
Gregory Marchand’s market cooking, honed during well-documented stints abroad, lives up to the hype. His house-smoked fish, which often appears as one of two starters on the regularly changing 38€ menu, is a revelation. As for getting in, it’s getting easier: Marchand has added a second dinner seating (but is no longer serving lunch), so your chances at night have just doubled.
Brash, Basque, and belly-filling, a meal at l’Ami Jean can be coma-inducing. Reserve in advance, and plan on walking home.
Pierre Jancou is alive and well, back in Paris, militant passion intact, doing what he does best: Offering the very best products, prepared “sans chi chi,” (his words), and natural wines.
Franck Baranger’s modern bistro near Pigalle is turning out dishes like celery root soup, oyster tartare, and a standout côte de cochon. Two courses at lunch for 17€, three at dinner for 32€.
A salade landaise served as a spring roll, mini croissants with truffles and ham, sardine rillettes, crisp polenta with smoked duck: This new address from Julien Duboué of Afaria serves up a lengthy list of creative tapas for gourmand grazing.
You’ll be surrounded by an array of tempting products if you decide to lunch at this charming canal-side épicerie. On the menu: Comforting classics, fresh salads, and a worthy brunch of salmon rillettes and scrambled eggs. Under 20 euros if you order a formule, a bit more à la carte.
Deep in the heart of boboland, another epicerie-cum-restaurant ristorante. Shop the selection of high-quality Italian products, or reserve a table for lunch or dinner, when owner Alessandra Pietrini serves dishes like gnocchi with lamb, fried monkfish, and almond semifreddo.
Good ingredients in the hands of a passionate chef make this Latin Quarter address a favorite, at least among those who have heard of it. The 16 euro lunch menu is a steal; dinner is far less criminal.
This Sentier address offers a streamlined menu of contemporary cooking, with global accents, and (comme il faut, these days) natural wines.
“Cook globally, source locally” could be the motto of Les Grandes Tables. Chef Fabrice Biasiolo’s menu draws from world traditions, but the ingredients are French, organic, sustainable…you get the idea. The reviews are mixed. Quirky historical bonus: Le 104 (a cultural center) is housed in what used to be the public morgue.
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