Tag Archives: market-based cooking

la cantine de quentin photo meg zimbeck

La Cantine de Quentin

You’ll be surrounded by an array of tempting products if you decide to lunch at this canal-side épicerie. Bottles to go, too.

Practical information

Address: 52 rue Bichat, 75010
Nearest transport: Jacques Bonsergent (5)
Hours: Lunch only, Tuesday-Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 42 02 40 32
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

Meg Zimbeck (2010) “Come here for comforting French classics and some serious eye candy—walls that are lined with hundreds of bottles and tasty takeaway food products.”

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Le Chateaubriand by Meg Zimbeck

Le Chateaubriand

You can only reserve for the first seating at Le Chateaubriand. After that, you’ll have to wait in line with everyone else for a stab at Iñaki Aizpitarte’s unique menu, a parade of forgotten vegetables, fish, and meat (some raw, some cooked) that landed the restaurant on San Pellegrino’s 50 Best list last year.

Practical information

Address: 129 Avenue Parmentier, 75011
Nearest transport: Goncourt (11)
Hours: Dinner only, Closed Sunday, Closed Monday
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 43 57 45 95
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French

Reviews of interest

Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “Inaki Aizpitarte, basque bondissant, autodidacte malicieux…continue d’avancer à sa manière ludique et précise…il faut être au moins une fois. Et où le plaisir est dans l’assiette.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “The colors are odd and bold and there’s something painterly about the presentation…There’s a lightness to this food that I appreciate, particularly in summer.  And I like the way the ingredients retain their integrity…the end result can be oddly austere and occasionally jarring.”

Meg Zimbeck (2009) “…the dish names are deceptively simple.  For example, ‘tranche de boeuf, aubergine, faiselle’…Like most of Iñaki’s creations, it was a surprising combination of elements that I would never dream of putting together…”

Food Snob (2009) “This modern, cosmopolitan theme is in stark contrast to the very restaurant wherein it resides: contemporary cooking in a classic bistro; colourful food within sombre walls…”

Food & Wine (2009) “…radical reconstructions of classic French dishes (foie gras served in miso soup)—all marvelously incongruous…”

Le Fooding “…des plats qui sont meilleurs que d’autres, des jours où Iñaki excelle, d’autres où le plat n’a pas collé au Basque, et du monde, beaucoup de monde.  Nous, on adore!”

François Simon (2007) “…une table encensée par la presse…”

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Aux Deux Amis

A truly mixed crowd packs this Oberkampf wine bar, for natural wine and small plates.

Practical information

Address: 45 rue Oberkampf, 75011
Nearest transport: Oberkampf (5, 9)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 58 30 38 13
Average price for lunch:  10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Small plates & tapas

Reviews of interest

Isabelle Legeron (2014) “…crowded, jovial joint. The extensive list is entirely natural, with bottles bought directly from growers, and by-the-glass options are written up on old mirrors around the place.”

Bruno Verjus (2011) “Quelques betteraves croquantes assaisonnée de Gouda, des poireaux de fourneaux pas blaireaux…Et toujours, le meilleur spot pour prendre un verre le soir.”

Chroniques du Plaisir (2010) “Mais la surprise est dans l’assiette. On vous y sert une cuisine de produits, peu sophistiquée mais respectueuse, maligne et rigoureusement sélectionnée…D’autant plus que le liquide a du répondant (superbe Macon-Villages Domaine Valette frais et parfumé).”

Meg Zimbeck (2010) “…plates of food that look simple, are made with foodie approved ingredients (Thiebault veggies), and taste a little like love.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “A bargain prix-fix lunch gives way to a tapas-style dinner…white asparagus swimming in piquant olive oil; a burrata that could barely contain itself; beets with cod liver…and a plate of sweetbreads…”

John Talbott (2010) “…a real throwback bar/cafe…Incredibly good products, cooked well and simply – with no bullshit, at reasonable prices.”

Bruno Verjus (2010) “Petit café comptoir bénéficiant d’une agréable terrasse…la liste des vins nature couvre une vigneronne géographie du bon goût…Quelques tapas et autres pintxos … “

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bistrot paul bert tarte tatin

Bistrot Paul Bert

The menu at this perennial favorite is seasonally-minded, and a carnivore’s paradise. Not for the faint of heart, or appetite.

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 18 rue Paul Bert, 75011
Nearest transport: Faidherbe-Chaligny (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 72 24 01
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2011) “…rapport simple au produit et ce culte de la gourmandise. Même soin apporté à la terrine de campagne maison qu’aux envolées plus fines (pigeon rôti et petits légumes ; lotte au gingembre…) et aux incontournables, dont le mythique paris-brest.”

Bruno Verjus (2011) “Ici l’on tâte et gâte le gourmand. Alors dérive et file le temps au gré de nourritures terrestres. Les desserts, par leurs énormes tailles créent un rapport d’enfance – tendre prodigalité. Du bon, du très bon, du généreux, un véritable bis trop.”

Patricia Wells (2010) “Last night at one of my favorite little places –Le  Bistrot Paul Bert in the 11th — I adored the addition of thinly sliced raw green asparagus. I’ve always preferred to braise my asparagus, but the earthy flavors of these raw veggies changed my mind!… Worth the journey, for sure.”

David Lebovitz (2010) “…it’s hard to go wrong with anything here. You can order from the fixed price menu or split a Côte de Boeuf (steak for two, which they will not cook further than medium-rare), which includes house made frites.”

Meg Zimbeck via Girls’ Guide to Paris (2010) “For those who are sincere in their desire to taste classic bistro fare, there are few places better than Le Bistrot Paul Bert.”

Alexander Lobrano via David Lebovitz (2009) “This crowded and very popular place is one of my favorite bistros in Paris…”

Barbra Austin (2009) “This one is on many people’s list of favorites, including mine…”

François Simon “Un de mes adresses préférées. Gourmand, puissant avec une carte des vins à perdre la nacre de vos yeux…”

Dorie Greenspan (2008) “…one of my hands-down favorite bistros…”

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Chez Grenouille by Meg Zimbeck

Chez Grenouille

An address for old school charcuterie and meat of all kinds.

Practical information

Address: 52 rue Blanche, 75009
Nearest transport: Trinité (12) or Liege (13)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday-Friday; dinner only on Saturday; closed Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 42 81 34 07
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: market-based cooking, good for game , nose to tail eating, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2010) ” Though the quality of the meal was much better-than-average overall…this is a very sad spot in which to have a meal.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “…house-made terrines and high cholesterol…”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “ouvert par…Alexis Blanchard, qui a pris avec lui tous ses prix, de meilleur boudin, pied de porc à la cassine, tête pressée, terrine, ouvre ses entrailles pour vous donner le meilleur de ce qui serait presque considéré comme impolitiquement correct aujourd’hui…

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2010) “… Les végétariens détalent, les autres se régalent.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “Les quatre syllabes de « charcuterie » auraient suffi…les ris, les tripes, la tourte, les terrines, la gueule de veau gribiche, la queue de bœuf…”

John Talbott (2010) “… a great idea in pretty much of a culinary desert.”

 

 

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Claude Colliot by Meg Zimbeck

Claude Colliot

This self-taught modernist chef’s signature dishes include an oyster sorbet, chicken cooked with licorice root, and a “larme” (tear) of chocolate.

Practical information

Address: 40 rue des Blancs-Manteaux, 75004
Nearest transport: Hotel de Ville (1) or Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 71 55 45
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

Philippe Toinard (2013) “Pour le bœuf grillé ou le filet d’orphie (poisson de mer ressemblant à une anguille), Claude Colliot les présente prédécoupés accompagnés de ce qui fait la signature de sa cuisine, une fleur de capucine par-ci, des radis ronds et des carottes multicolores par-là sans oublier de la poudre d’olives noires, quelques herbes et des jus de cuisson dont il a le secret. Une idée plutôt convaincante.”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “Lotte champêtre (avec son champ de fleurs parfumées), réduction sauce soja, huile de sésame et d’autres choses et compotée de pommes. Servi à côté, le bol de légumes du moment encore croquants, navets, carottes…c’est délicieux, parfumé, gracieux.”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “Cette cuisine simple en apparence camoufle dans ses entrailles bien des subtilités…”

François Régis-Gaudry in l’Express (2010) “Sous l’apparente candeur de ces exercices de juxtaposition se profile en réalité un doigté hors pair pour les ricochets de saveurs, les puzzles de couleurs et la balance des goûts.”

Emmanuel Rubin in Le Figaro (2009) “…entre les beaux murs d’un intérieur very Marais, Colliot signe et soigne une cuisine de mouvement, technique sans être démonstrative, droit au but et au brut du produit.”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “…the meal started, and quite well, since the service here is outstanding…Then our first courses arrived, and conversation stalled as we worked very hard to understand them…”

John Talbott (2009) “simple sounding maraichier starter (I recoil – simple market veggies from Colliot, oh no), sorry, it was incredible, simple-sounding, complexly-made, my, oh my… scallops…were among the best I’ve ever had…”

 

 

 

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Les Affranchis by John Talbott

Les Affranchis

A bistro near Pigalle serving dishes like roasted cod with fennel bulb carbonara or calf’s liver with onions and roasted garlic.

Practical information

Address: 5 rue Henri Monnier, 75009
Nearest transport: Pigalle (2, 12)
Hours: Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday; Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 45 26 26 30
Website
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, French bistro
Special attributes: market-based cooking, prix-fixe

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “The renewel of the neighborhood bistro in Paris has now reached a rather glorious full gallop. To be sure, you’re not likely to find a rock-of-ages coq au vin or blanquette de veau at a place like Les Affranchis… but instead, bright, light, reasonably priced and intelligently inventive contemporary French cooking.”

Charles Patin O’Coohoon for L’Express (2011) “Dans une ambiance vintage, nanar au mur et phonographe au comptoir, il envoie, sans casser les codes, une jolie cuisine néobistrotière. Sur l’ardoise, le lard et les marrons sont immergés sous le panais… et le maigre, rôti, sur son beurre basilic-citron, en impose tout autant devant le crémeux de fenouil.”

John Talbott (2011) “Another fine neighborhood bistrot that was packed to the gills with locals.”

Emmanuel Rubin for Le Figaro (2011) “Pleine forme pour le quartier avec ce néobistrot lancé par un frais binôme jouant l’ardoise habile, la cuisine d’entrain et la belle petite manière appliquée à des recettes qui n’en ont pas l’air mais qui, l’air de rien, emballent les bonnes mines du bas Pigalle.”

 

 

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l'Arpège by Meg Zimbeck

L’Arpège

Alain Passard spins turnips into gold at this vegecentric (but not vegetarian) three star restaurant.

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 84 rue de Varenne, 75007
Nearest transport: Varenne (13)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Closed Saturday
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 47 05 09 06
Website
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, superior wine list, exceptional desserts, renowned chef, vegetarian options, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Patricia Wells (2011) “A big disappointment, once again. We sampled the 120 euro garden luncheon, and Passard turns out to be a real Johnny one note in the potager…course after monotonous, unimaginative course turned out a little more than I could bear of carrots, beets, turnips, onions. Dish after dish I kept waiting for Passard to finish the sentence. But he never did.”

François Simon (2010) “…Passard…cultive lui-même ses légumes non loin de Paris, travaille le thème dans tous les sens, son restaurant est sans doute l’un des meilleurs observatoires sur le thème.”

Sophie Brissaud (2009) “…le poème végétal d’Alain Passard s’élève désormais avec une délicatesse infinie, une maîtrise arrivée au stade du jeu permanent.”

Ulterior Epicure (2009) “…Rarely does a chef cook vegetables well. Even scarcer is a chef who can cook vegetables well AND do something interesting with them…Passard does both, and more.”

Food Snob (2009) “…there is Passard’s panache and flair, his creative and culinary genius to contend with. This is most keenly felt via his valuable vegetables.”

 

 

 

 

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Dans les Landes by Meg Zimbeck

Dans Les Landes

A salade landaise served as a spring roll, mini croissants with truffles and ham, sardine rillettes, crisp polenta with smoked duck: this wine bar with a terrasse serves a lengthy list of creative tapas for gourmand grazing, plus well-priced wines. Note: Julien Duboué sold Dans les Landes in July 2014 to open a new place near the Bourse. We haven’t yet returned to try Dans les Landes under the new management. 

Practical information

Address: 119 bis rue Monge, 75005
Nearest transport: Censier-Daubenton (7)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 45 87 06 00
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Wine bar / small plates / tapas
Special attributes: small plates, market-based cooking, good for groups, good for solo dining, continuous all-day service, open Monday, terrasse

Reviews of interest

Hipsters in Paris (2013) “Chipirones, duck hearts, potted boudin noir, deep fried Camembert, generous charcuterie plates and crunchy croquettes are just some of the dishes you will see on the chalkboard menu. And they are far, far more generous than their pricing suggests, a welcome departure from anorexic share plates that tend to go hand in hand with ‘wine bars’. Food coma for under €25 per head.”

John Talbott (2013) “New (sort of) but great (really) menu.”

Sophie Brissaud (2012) “C’est toujours agréable de s’asseoir au zinc pour boire un petit verre (cette fois, un tursan rouge bien croquant) et grignoter les dernières nouveautés proposées par Julien. Tout est délicieux…Certaines tapas valent bien la traversée de Paris.”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “Among its other attractions, and they’re many, Dans Les Landes is a very friendly place…deep fried chipirons (baby squid), baby clams with chick peas and avocado, the best little barbecued pork ribs I’ve ever eaten in Paris…and doubtless a dish or two that I don’t remember.”

François-Régis Gaudry for L’Express (2011) “On ne l’a pas vue venir, celle-là. On aurait même eu du mal à la prendre au sérieux, si on était tombé dessus par hasard, avec son air de néo-brasserie fêtarde pour sorbonnards en mal de sangria et son écran plat hurlant le dernier Bayonne-Stade français…. Il y a forcément un chef, un vrai, derrière cette tournée ripailleuse.”

Barbra Austin – Girls’ Guide to Paris (2011) “This place is best enjoyed with a group around one of the high communal tables. The small plates are actually fairly generous…croquettes of polenta with smoked duck, fantastic finger food. Chipirons (baby squid, also fried) were served in a wooden clog…There are plenty of wines by the glass to wash all of this down.”

Aaron Ayscough (2011) “As befits a meal consisting mostly of salty drunk food, we tore into the wine list. DansLes Landes’ is what I would classify as an eminently tolerable wine list. It’s fairly priced, with quite a few good selections, and maintains an admirable focus on wines from the southwest, an area that gets consistently overlooked on most decent wine lists.”

Patricia Wells (2011) “…full of varied tapas-style tastes from France’s southwest, including meaty grilled quail breasts; tender fried chipirions (baby squid) sprinkled with a touch of sweet pepper…Sip a glass of white Irouleguy, and enjoy!”

Sébastien Demorand (2011) “…rafale de bouchées impeccables (chipirons frits d’enfer, délicatement servis — mais oui — dans un sabot, rouleau de printemps de salade landaise et vinaigrette truffée, travers de porc confits puis laqués avec une sauce barbecue géante…), et en partant, une certitude: ce Camdeborde junior va mettre le feu au quartier.”

John Talbott (2011) “…a long chalkboard of tapas…daily specials…and an awesome list of desserts.”

 

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sergent recruteur dining room

Le Sergent Recruteur

Michel Bras’ protégé Antonin Bonnet has taken over the former tourist trap near Notre Dame and transformed the space into a sleeker, chicer dining experience. Diners fly blind sans menu but can expect high quality local products.

Practical information

Address: 41 rue Saint-Louis-en Ile, 75004
Nearest transport: Pont Marie (7)
Hours: Dinner Tuesday-Saturday, Lunch on Friday & Saturday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 54 75 42
Website
Average price for lunch: 50-100€
Average price for dinner: more than 100€
Style of cuisine: modern French
Special attributes: no choice menu, vegetarian options, market based cooking

Reviews of interest

Mark Bittman (2013) “Le Sergent Recruteur is splendidly located in the heart of Île St.-Louis; it’s swank, stylish and expensive and is loved by many. It’s also full of surprises, and the service is brilliant, but I did not think that the food delivered.”

François Simon (2013) “Nous étions au bar tranquillement à picorer une feuille de jambon, un soupir de viande, un baquet de vin rubis. Il y avait là comme une félicité rare à frôler l’excellence sans y succomber, déguster sans ressortir empaqueté ; pouvoir s’arrêter de manger comme l’on souhaite, accélérer soudainement. Deviser, dévisser puis partir lorsque les épidermes sont alertes. C’est cela la gastronomie d’aujourd’hui à Paris comme dans les grandes villes : alterner le haut plaisir et le plus simple et ce, dans une même adresse.”

John Talbott (2013) “Then came one of the best product seared scallops of my life with a carrot puree and a simply lovely bouillon/sauce; razor clams atop green al dente asparagus; and a nice piece of daurade with cauliflower heart.  Again, inventive, refreshing and interesting.”

Caroline Mignot (2013) “Produits triés sur le volet, vision pertinente, cuisine qui saisit son époque au vol, un goût de trop peu pour moi.”

Nicholas Lander (2013) “There is no menu in the restaurant. Instead, the staff engagingly ask for any intolerances or dislikes, and then list one or two of the more significant courses that night….My wife, much impressed by a fairly priced wine list of sensible length that includes, in her opinion, exciting producers from Italy, Germany, Greece, and Spain, chose a 2010 St-Joseph, Chemin Faisant, La Ferme des Sept Lunes.”

Le Fooding (2012) “Les comestibles tavernomiques collent au terroir parisien : œuf de Rambouillet, sirop d’angélique, noix fraîche, crème fouettée et oxalis. Ultra-technique et chromatique galantine de lapin rex du Poitou, foie gras, neige de pistache et gelée rubis de Banyuls. Les chairs limoneuses du mulet noir fleurissent à l’acidulé petit-lait du divin beurre ; potimarron et courge spaghetti en îlot réconfortent.”

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “Going on three hours now, we decided to cut things short, too, and concluded with an excellent fresh fig tart with vanilla ice cream. The bill for this meal ran over 300 Euros, which was rather heart-breaking, since it inevitably invited comparison to all of the other places we might have gone instead for a better and more enjoyable meal. Aside from the excruciatingly slow and disorganized service, the problem with this place you see is that the chef is more interested in showing off his culinary prowess, such as it is–and he does have talent, than he is in creating a sincerely memorable evening for his clientele.”

 

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Racines by Meg Zimbeck

Racines

Founding chef Pierre Jancou has moved on, but the roots remain. New chef Renaud Marcille is bringing a touch of elegance to the product-driven, market cooking, served, as always, with natural wine, inside the city’s oldest covered passage.

Practical information

Address: 8 passage des Panoramas, 75002
Nearest transport: Grands Boulevards (8,9)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Closed Saturday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 40 13 06 41
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, French bistro
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, open Monday

Reviews of interest

François-Régis Gaudry (2012) “Fouettée au sang neuf de Renaud Marcille, trentenaire arrivé cet été après 4 ans comme sous-chef chez Alain Senderens et quelques saisons en tant que chef de partie au Meurice. Le petit gars en a suffisamment sous le capot pour piloter du bout des doigts une assiette bistrotière dans l’esprit originel du lieu, tout en mettant des coups d’accélérateur à vous décrocher la mâchoire. Deux plats, deux sensations fortes.”

Chrisos (2011) “Je garde un bon souvenir de mon chapon, même si les légumes sont trop beurrés…Le reste n’était pas mal, mais pas marquant…Ce n’est pas désagréable, mais c’est cher pour ce que c’est.”

Food Intelligence (2011) “La patte agile de ce chef, nouveau venu, dans le monde de la cuisine “nature” apporte quelques reliefs aussi inattendus que bienvenus.”

Food Intelligence (2010) “David Lanher le nouveau propriétaire du Racines vient de s’adjoindre les services de Nicolas Gauduin en cuisine. 26 ans à peine, pour cet ancien de l’Arpège, du Laurent et du Divellec. Il pratique une cuisine de belle qualité ou les produits (réputation de cette maison de cuisine) sont travaillés en humilité et avec gourmandises.”

The Guardian (2010) “…evangelical about vins naturels.”

Thierry Richard (2010) “Pierre Jancou a cédé son affaire pour filer sous d’autres soleils, mais l’équipe est restée et tient la maison solidement arrimée à son excellente réputation…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2009) “Nouvelle équipe pour cette cave à manger mais toujours une bobine très jadis et naguère, des fioles militant le vin nature, une popote brut de terroir, un accueil plus ou moins épidermique, une addition pas franchement popu et l’impassible allant du passage des Panos. On aime encore !”

David Lebovitz (2008) “…one of the best places I’ve eaten in Paris in a long time.”

 

 

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Hidden Kitchen

Hidden Kitchen (Closed)

Book many weeks in advance for a seat at this fantastic table d’hotes, run by a young American couple in their apartment near Palais Royal. 100€ for ten courses, including bubbly and wine pairings. OCTOBER 2011: Hidden Kitchen is now closed, but you can find the pair at their new venture Verjus.

Practical information

Address: 75001
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Contact: e-mail hkreservations@gmail.com
Website

Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: American
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, no-choice menu, communal table
Type of crowd: foodies, tourists
Interior: elegant & luxe
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • Le Figaro (2011) “Une quinzaine de convives venus partager un menu-dégustation (10 petits plats bouchées) épousant l’harmonie mets-vins. Plutôt chic, anglophone et visiblement succesfull puisque l’agenda affiche complet jusqu’à la mi-septembre.”
  • The New York Times (2010) “For the proprietors, being out of public view and restricting access offers greater autonomy and much more intimacy with clients. In this private Paris, discretion is valued over ostentation, and a family-like atmosphere is appreciated far more than mass appeal.”
  • Meg Zimbeck (2009) “Reserve well in advance for an inspired dinner, free-flowing wine and the chance to make new friends in a beautiful Parisian apartment.”
  • David Lebovitz (2009) “… impeccably fresh, and inventive.”
  • Travel + Leisure (2008) “The professional chefs from Seattle used their knife skills, and delicious market ingredients, to make new friends in a foreign city. Some 10,000 dinners later, their social circle could fill a small arrondissement.”
  • Food & Wine (2008) “After just 18 months, their dining atelier, which is also their apartment, has seen hundreds of diners, resulting in exponential expansion of their social circle—and buzz.  Dinners, which start with an aperitif and end with petit fours presented in a silver jewel box, are as artful as they are delicious.”
  • Clotilde Dusoulier (2007) “…a highly promising dinner, each dish tastefully plated, well balanced, and clean-flavored, projecting an energy that, to me, epitomizes contemporary American cuisine.”

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L'Hédoniste by Barbra Austin

L’Hédoniste

NOW CLOSED This Sentier address offers a streamlined menu of contemporary cooking, with global accents, and (comme il faut, these days) natural wines.

Practical information

Address: 14 rue Léopold Bellan, 75002
Nearest transport: Sentier (3)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 40 26 87 33
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a33ccbde98639f850&ll=48.866806,2.345989&spn=0.006931,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes:
Type of crowd: foodies, neighborhood locals
Interior: polished & modern
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

NOW CLOSED

  • John Talbott (2012) “… the welcome is still just as warm and the offerings are still quite appealing…”
  • Caroline Mignot (2011) “Les prix pardi ! 28,50 € la formule déjeuner (entrée-plat ou plat-dessert, 35 € les 3), certes gourmande et raffinée (vous verrez), mais à midi, ça peut refroidir.”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2011) “…first courses were delicious…green asparagus served with fava beans and a plump ravioli filled with creamy goat cheese… ‘tataki’ (thin slices) of beef with a light sauce of reduced beef jus and beets…clams in a gently briny bouillon spiked by galanga…All three dishes showed off the kitchen’s cosmopolitan imagination and precise cooking skills….Given the excellent quality of the cooking, the friendly service, and the reasonable prices here, this is an address I’ve already been back to two more times, and one at which I expect to become a regular…”
  • François Simon (2011) “En entrée, un céviche puis des saint jacques avec radis et navets. Ce fut un vrai bonheur précis et enlevé. Ce genre d’adresse sur laquelle vous vous retournez dans la rue. Hautement recommandable.”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2011) “L’une des heureuses surprises du moment, où, selon le désormais classique refrain du «rien dans le décor, tout dans l’assiette», une épatante sève de cuisine en vertu bistrotière parvient à faire oublier une salle veule, ingrate, dépourvue de toute gaieté.”
  • Barbra Austin via Girls’ Guide to Paris (2011) “This contemporary bistro may not justify a trip across town but is a great choice after a day strolling around Montorgueil or les Halles.”
  • John Talbott (2010) “If Chicago is Sinatra’s kind of town, L’Hedoniste is my kind of restaurant/bistro – inventive cooking in a neat setting with reasonable prices.  This is the find of 2011.”
  • Chrisoscope(2010) “…hautement recommandable…de belles assiettes réalisées par un chef, Sébastien Dubrulle, qui a déjà fait ses preuves et confirme son talent. En salle, un jeune restaurateur, Arthur Pétillault, et une jeune femme aimable, Kathleen Mayer, qui connaissent très bien leurs sujets…”

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Le 104

Les Grandes Tables du 104

The open kitchen food hall of the 104 cultural center, housed in what used to be the public morgue.

Practical information

Address: 5 rue Curial, 75019
Nearest transport: Riquet (7)
Hours: Closed Monday
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 01 40 37 10 07
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.fr/maps/ms?hl=fr&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a352a0327d572604a&ll=48.889699,2.37136&spn=0.006927,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Fusion
Special attributes: market-based cooking, good for groups, good for solo dining, open Sunday
Type of crowd: hipsters, foodies, bobos, neighborhood locals
Interior: polished & modern
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • François-Régis Gaudry – l’Express (2010) “Au sujet de mon dîner de hier soir, je me demande encore ce qu’il y avait à sauver… Le décor loftien peut-être, avec ses supensions industrielles et son enchêtrement de gros tuyaux au plafond ; les prix ras le béton, aussi. Pour le reste, je suis bien obligé de cocher les cases « bof », voire carrément  »beurk »”
  • John Talbott (2010) “Great menu; 28 E for dinner and weekends, 17 E for weekday lunches for three dishes and the menu changes regularly….razor clams and squid with potatoes and piquillos and a mushroom soup with combawa (yah we had to ask too – sort of Pacific Ocean limes) and veggies – both were simply delicious.”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “Bonne pâte un peu paumée, perdue dans l’environnement, déracinée, du moins malhabile à concilier la sève rustique et le sens de la plastique. Le propos est sincère, le ticket peu dispendieux mais on a ici ce sentiment d’une gastronomie comme subventionnée.”

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Zinc Caius by Brett Corbin

Zinc Caïus

Now closed. 

Reviews of interest 

(Now closed)

  • Barbra Austin (2010) “…a meal here is just as memorable as one served by its sophisticated sibling.”
  • Le Figaro (2010) “Dans ce cadre mimi tout plein, une ardoise qui s’acoquine aux meilleurs produits…”
  • Phyllis Flick (2009) “It’s too bad that every neighbourhood doesn’t have a restaurant like Jean Marc Notelet’s recently-opened, pocket-sized bistro, Zinc Caius.”
  • John Talbott (2009) “…two of us had the slab of beef (entrecote) which…was terrific, and a tartare of beef with polenta frites (warning to all the ships at sea – me, the great mashed potato ignoramus and polenta hater, loved both such versions here.)”
  • Caroline Mignot (2009) “L’ardoise est blanchie de 2, 3 entrées, à peine plus de plats et de quelques desserts, tout fait envie, tout est piqué de gourmandise.”
  • Le Fooding “Où déjeuner un samedi à 14 heures du côté de l’Etoile ? Au Zinc Caïus pardi!”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it to parisbymouth@gmail.com.

 

 

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Passage 53 by Meg Zimbeck

Passage 53

An absolute favorite

Chef Shinishi Sato and his Japanese team make precise, poetic use of pristine French ingredients, and have recently earned a second Michelin star.

Practical information

Address: 53 passage des Panoramas, 75002
Nearest transport: Grands Boulevards (8,9)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 42 33 04 35
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, superior wine list

Reviews of interest

Bruno Verjus (2011) “Les mets ouatés, sans ostentation, paraissent sur table et comblent le palais de leurs saveurs éclatantes, précises en diable et virevoltantes…Un must eat absolu.”

Gilles Pudlowski (2010) Aux fourneaux, le rigoureux Sato Shinishi… compose, avec une toute jeune équipe 100% japonaise, triée sur le volet, des menus au bouche à oreille, réalisant une cuisine de création et de saison très française, mais avec une légèreté, une finesse et une ferveur toute nippones.” And again, here: “Un exemple de plat végétal, vif, léger et frais comme l’air du temps: des navets bancs, avec une fine gelé?e de concombre, un émincé? de mini concombres crus parfum?és aux oignons. Un poème, un clin d’oeil du jardin, un souffle d’air.”

Francois Simon (2010) “En salle, le service est dirigé par un grand garçon épanoui Guillaume Guedj. En cuisine, il y a là une vraie colonie de japonais dirigés par le vif-argent Shinichi Sato (ex Astrance, ex- Mugaritz) , samouraï s’amourant de la France et de ses produits. Touches elliptiques, sensées pour un repas apaisant de saveurs poétiques.”

Meg Zimbeck (2009) “Star ingredients do not themselves make a meal. In other provenance-crazed restaurants (les Fines Gueules, Racines, Cou de Poule…) they turn in a solid and respectable performance. Under the direction of P53’s chef, they shine. Ballsy combos, complimented by near-perfect technique, coax the best from each element.

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “I found the service mannered and the cooking pleasant but timid and rather self-conscious… Overall our six or seven course tasting menu lacked real passion and was way overpriced at 65 Euros. So would I go again? Probably not.”

John Talbott (2009) “…a degustation menu at lunch for 45 Euros…We had it with great pleasure.”

Caroline Mignot (2009) “Des viandes de chez Hugo Desnoyer (la pointure des bouchers), des vins naturels et un traitement simple des produits, jusque là tout va bien…”

François Simon (2009) “C’était impeccable le premier soir. Allez y.”

 

 

 

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La Bigarrade by Meg Zimbeck

Bigarrade

Chef Christophe Pélé sold and left Bigarrade in early 2012. Chef Yasuhiro Kanayama has taken over, to much acclaim.

Practical information

Address: 106 rue Nollet, 75017
Nearest transport: Brochant (13)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Saturday; lunch, Tuesday-Friday; Closed Saturday, closed Sunday
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 42 26 01 02
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a35f6216bf46121b0&ll=48.88897,2.318319&spn=0.006927,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 50-99€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, no-choice menu, open Monday
Type of crowd: foodies
Interior: polished & modern
Atmosphere: formal

Reviews of interest

  • Alexander Lobrano (2012) “…superb…Though compatible with Pele’s approach, Kanayama’s cooking is actually much subtler and even more quietly provocative when it comes to sensual contrasts of texture, as seen in a sublime little dish of lobster with grilled banana in lemon-verbena foam…La Bigarrade remains an urgently well-recommended…”
  • John Talbott (2012) “it’s a “forced” or “surprise” menu and the plates (with identifying announcements in French or English) roll out one after another…A strawberry/foie gras concoction, marinated fish with microtomed cauliflower, razor clams with petit pois and apricots…barbue with carrots and orange slices, veal with cabbage…Go? Goodness yes.”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012 – new chef) “…microcompositions tellement graciles…Tout est très soigné, précis, méticuleux, sûrement cérébral et peut-être plein de sentiment, seulement voilà, on ne peut s’interdire cette impression de manger la bouche en cul-de-poule…”
  • Bruno Verjus (2011) “Ici réside l’âme de la cuisine. La précision, le ballet de la gestuelle du chef, l’intelligence des mets, des saveurs, me laissent à chaque fois sans voix et presque sans mot… Du génie à l’état pur!”
  • Meg Zimbeck (2010) “…deflating and befuddled. It was cluttered and careless, like a teenager’s MySpace page that uses seven different fonts. We were subjected, over and over again, to pairings that made absolutely no sense.”
  • Thierry Richard (2009) “Belle, étonnante, subtile et sacrément bien maîtrisée la cuisine de Christophe Pelé est un ravissement.”
  • John Talbott (2008) “…it didn’t come off for any of us as over a 5/10 meal… It is often said that Bigarrade is the “new Spring”, but we think it is not.”
  • François Simon (2008) “…franchement, c’est brillant.”

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Le Bistrot du 20ème by John Talbott

Le Bistrot du 20e

An old-fashioned bistro, open every day.

Practical information

Address: 203 ave Gambetta, 75020
Nearest transport: St. Fargeau (3bis)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 40 31 86 07
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.fr/maps/ms?hl=fr&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a3525ae0d9757d69c&ll=48.873231,2.40478&spn=0.00693,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, open Sunday, open Monday
Type of crowd: neighborhood locals
Interior: quirky & playful
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • John Talbott (2010) “…old bistro cooking with modern sensibilities…”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2010) “…quelques plats débonnaires parviennent à incarner en amusant l’estomac dans un quartier régulièrement inscrit aux appétits absents.”

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Chez Michel by Meg Zimbeck

Chez Michel

This Breton bistrominique near the Gare du Nord serves a four course feast featuring dishes that are baked in a massive dining room oven.

  An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 10 rue de Belzunce, 75010
Nearest transport: Poissonière (7)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 44 53 06 20
Average price for lunch: 50-100€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, Breton
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, good for game, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Aaron Ayscough (2013) “It’s in a fine groove right now, having attained an effortless sweet-spot consisting of informal service, an idiosyncratic, well-priced wine list, and a menu rendered exotic for its unswerving devotion to Bretonne country-cooking.”

Patricia Wells (2011) “…impeccable ingredients, some of the best baked-on-premises bread in town…and a blackboard menu that’s so varied, every diner should find something to satisfy…the downside: While Chez Michel used to be known for its well-priced menus, I was shocked to see the 50-euro price tag on the blackboard menu…”

Meg Zimbeck (2011) “The new oven enables Breton to collect and use the crazy delicious jus as condiment. There’s a flagrant drizzle of these roasting juices atop his starter of scrambled, truffled eggs, but their profoundly comforting flavor permeates other dishes as well.”

Bruno Verjus (2011) “Petite soupe de poisson, en mise en bouche, pour les embruns du feu frais safran. Ormeau grillé, ail, persil et racines à la texture délicate et tendre. Lotte au feu du four en croûte feuilletée. Une gourmandise d’un autre temps. L’on en vient à rêver de vagues et de grains s’abattant sur ce Paris en manque d’iode.”

Meg Zimbeck (2010) “My fourth visit on a frozen December evening was nearly perfect…A moderate eater can be perfectly happy with the standard three-course €32 menu. A gastronomic god…can splurge on rare and expensive treats and spend more than €160…”

Jerome Berger- L’Express (2009) “L’authenticité se lit sur les murs de cette maison… Côté assiette, cela donne un lièvre à la royale dont les filets sont juste rosés à la minute…”

 

 

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