Tag Archives: market-based cooking

bistrot paul bert tarte tatin

Bistrot Paul Bert

The menu at this perennial favorite is seasonally-minded, and a carnivore’s paradise. Not for the faint of heart, or appetite.

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 18 rue Paul Bert, 75011
Nearest transport: Faidherbe-Chaligny (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 72 24 01
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2011) “…rapport simple au produit et ce culte de la gourmandise. Même soin apporté à la terrine de campagne maison qu’aux envolées plus fines (pigeon rôti et petits légumes ; lotte au gingembre…) et aux incontournables, dont le mythique paris-brest.”

Bruno Verjus (2011) “Ici l’on tâte et gâte le gourmand. Alors dérive et file le temps au gré de nourritures terrestres. Les desserts, par leurs énormes tailles créent un rapport d’enfance – tendre prodigalité. Du bon, du très bon, du généreux, un véritable bis trop.”

Patricia Wells (2010) “Last night at one of my favorite little places –Le  Bistrot Paul Bert in the 11th — I adored the addition of thinly sliced raw green asparagus. I’ve always preferred to braise my asparagus, but the earthy flavors of these raw veggies changed my mind!… Worth the journey, for sure.”

David Lebovitz (2010) “…it’s hard to go wrong with anything here. You can order from the fixed price menu or split a Côte de Boeuf (steak for two, which they will not cook further than medium-rare), which includes house made frites.”

Meg Zimbeck via Girls’ Guide to Paris (2010) “For those who are sincere in their desire to taste classic bistro fare, there are few places better than Le Bistrot Paul Bert.”

Alexander Lobrano via David Lebovitz (2009) “This crowded and very popular place is one of my favorite bistros in Paris…”

Barbra Austin (2009) “This one is on many people’s list of favorites, including mine…”

François Simon “Un de mes adresses préférées. Gourmand, puissant avec une carte des vins à perdre la nacre de vos yeux…”

Dorie Greenspan (2008) “…one of my hands-down favorite bistros…”

Chez Grenouille by Meg Zimbeck

Chez Grenouille

An address for old school charcuterie and meat of all kinds.

Practical information

Address: 52 rue Blanche, 75009
Nearest transport: Trinité (12) or Liege (13)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday-Friday; dinner only on Saturday; closed Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 42 81 34 07
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: market-based cooking, good for game , nose to tail eating, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2010) ” Though the quality of the meal was much better-than-average overall…this is a very sad spot in which to have a meal.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “…house-made terrines and high cholesterol…”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “ouvert par…Alexis Blanchard, qui a pris avec lui tous ses prix, de meilleur boudin, pied de porc à la cassine, tête pressée, terrine, ouvre ses entrailles pour vous donner le meilleur de ce qui serait presque considéré comme impolitiquement correct aujourd’hui…

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2010) “… Les végétariens détalent, les autres se régalent.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “Les quatre syllabes de « charcuterie » auraient suffi…les ris, les tripes, la tourte, les terrines, la gueule de veau gribiche, la queue de bœuf…”

John Talbott (2010) “… a great idea in pretty much of a culinary desert.”

 

 

Claude Colliot by Meg Zimbeck

Claude Colliot

This self-taught modernist chef’s signature dishes include an oyster sorbet, chicken cooked with licorice root, and a “larme” (tear) of chocolate.

Practical information

Address: 40 rue des Blancs-Manteaux, 75004
Nearest transport: Hotel de Ville (1) or Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 71 55 45
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

Philippe Toinard (2013) “Pour le bœuf grillé ou le filet d’orphie (poisson de mer ressemblant à une anguille), Claude Colliot les présente prédécoupés accompagnés de ce qui fait la signature de sa cuisine, une fleur de capucine par-ci, des radis ronds et des carottes multicolores par-là sans oublier de la poudre d’olives noires, quelques herbes et des jus de cuisson dont il a le secret. Une idée plutôt convaincante.”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “Lotte champêtre (avec son champ de fleurs parfumées), réduction sauce soja, huile de sésame et d’autres choses et compotée de pommes. Servi à côté, le bol de légumes du moment encore croquants, navets, carottes…c’est délicieux, parfumé, gracieux.”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “Cette cuisine simple en apparence camoufle dans ses entrailles bien des subtilités…”

François Régis-Gaudry in l’Express (2010) “Sous l’apparente candeur de ces exercices de juxtaposition se profile en réalité un doigté hors pair pour les ricochets de saveurs, les puzzles de couleurs et la balance des goûts.”

Emmanuel Rubin in Le Figaro (2009) “…entre les beaux murs d’un intérieur very Marais, Colliot signe et soigne une cuisine de mouvement, technique sans être démonstrative, droit au but et au brut du produit.”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “…the meal started, and quite well, since the service here is outstanding…Then our first courses arrived, and conversation stalled as we worked very hard to understand them…”

John Talbott (2009) “simple sounding maraichier starter (I recoil – simple market veggies from Colliot, oh no), sorry, it was incredible, simple-sounding, complexly-made, my, oh my… scallops…were among the best I’ve ever had…”

 

 

 

Les Affranchis by John Talbott

Les Affranchis

A bistro near Pigalle serving dishes like roasted cod with fennel bulb carbonara or calf’s liver with onions and roasted garlic.

Practical information

Address: 5 rue Henri Monnier, 75009
Nearest transport: Pigalle (2, 12)
Hours: Lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday; Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 45 26 26 30
Website
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, French bistro
Special attributes: market-based cooking, prix-fixe

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “The renewel of the neighborhood bistro in Paris has now reached a rather glorious full gallop. To be sure, you’re not likely to find a rock-of-ages coq au vin or blanquette de veau at a place like Les Affranchis… but instead, bright, light, reasonably priced and intelligently inventive contemporary French cooking.”

Charles Patin O’Coohoon for L’Express (2011) “Dans une ambiance vintage, nanar au mur et phonographe au comptoir, il envoie, sans casser les codes, une jolie cuisine néobistrotière. Sur l’ardoise, le lard et les marrons sont immergés sous le panais… et le maigre, rôti, sur son beurre basilic-citron, en impose tout autant devant le crémeux de fenouil.”

John Talbott (2011) “Another fine neighborhood bistrot that was packed to the gills with locals.”

Emmanuel Rubin for Le Figaro (2011) “Pleine forme pour le quartier avec ce néobistrot lancé par un frais binôme jouant l’ardoise habile, la cuisine d’entrain et la belle petite manière appliquée à des recettes qui n’en ont pas l’air mais qui, l’air de rien, emballent les bonnes mines du bas Pigalle.”

 

 

sergent recruteur dining room

Le Sergent Recruteur

Michel Bras’ protégé Antonin Bonnet has taken over the former tourist trap near Notre Dame and transformed the space into a sleeker, chicer dining experience. Diners fly blind sans menu but can expect high quality local products.

Practical information

Address: 41 rue Saint-Louis-en Ile, 75004
Nearest transport: Pont Marie (7)
Hours: Dinner Tuesday-Saturday, Lunch on Friday & Saturday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 54 75 42
Website
Average price for lunch: 50-100€
Average price for dinner: more than 100€
Style of cuisine: modern French
Special attributes: no choice menu, vegetarian options, market based cooking

Reviews of interest

Mark Bittman (2013) “Le Sergent Recruteur is splendidly located in the heart of Île St.-Louis; it’s swank, stylish and expensive and is loved by many. It’s also full of surprises, and the service is brilliant, but I did not think that the food delivered.”

François Simon (2013) “Nous étions au bar tranquillement à picorer une feuille de jambon, un soupir de viande, un baquet de vin rubis. Il y avait là comme une félicité rare à frôler l’excellence sans y succomber, déguster sans ressortir empaqueté ; pouvoir s’arrêter de manger comme l’on souhaite, accélérer soudainement. Deviser, dévisser puis partir lorsque les épidermes sont alertes. C’est cela la gastronomie d’aujourd’hui à Paris comme dans les grandes villes : alterner le haut plaisir et le plus simple et ce, dans une même adresse.”

John Talbott (2013) “Then came one of the best product seared scallops of my life with a carrot puree and a simply lovely bouillon/sauce; razor clams atop green al dente asparagus; and a nice piece of daurade with cauliflower heart.  Again, inventive, refreshing and interesting.”

Caroline Mignot (2013) “Produits triés sur le volet, vision pertinente, cuisine qui saisit son époque au vol, un goût de trop peu pour moi.”

Nicholas Lander (2013) “There is no menu in the restaurant. Instead, the staff engagingly ask for any intolerances or dislikes, and then list one or two of the more significant courses that night….My wife, much impressed by a fairly priced wine list of sensible length that includes, in her opinion, exciting producers from Italy, Germany, Greece, and Spain, chose a 2010 St-Joseph, Chemin Faisant, La Ferme des Sept Lunes.”

Le Fooding (2012) “Les comestibles tavernomiques collent au terroir parisien : œuf de Rambouillet, sirop d’angélique, noix fraîche, crème fouettée et oxalis. Ultra-technique et chromatique galantine de lapin rex du Poitou, foie gras, neige de pistache et gelée rubis de Banyuls. Les chairs limoneuses du mulet noir fleurissent à l’acidulé petit-lait du divin beurre ; potimarron et courge spaghetti en îlot réconfortent.”

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “Going on three hours now, we decided to cut things short, too, and concluded with an excellent fresh fig tart with vanilla ice cream. The bill for this meal ran over 300 Euros, which was rather heart-breaking, since it inevitably invited comparison to all of the other places we might have gone instead for a better and more enjoyable meal. Aside from the excruciatingly slow and disorganized service, the problem with this place you see is that the chef is more interested in showing off his culinary prowess, such as it is–and he does have talent, than he is in creating a sincerely memorable evening for his clientele.”

 

Hidden Kitchen

Hidden Kitchen (Closed)

Book many weeks in advance for a seat at this fantastic table d’hotes, run by a young American couple in their apartment near Palais Royal. 100€ for ten courses, including bubbly and wine pairings. OCTOBER 2011: Hidden Kitchen is now closed, but you can find the pair at their new venture Verjus.

Practical information

Address: 75001
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Contact: e-mail hkreservations@gmail.com
Website

Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: American
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, no-choice menu, communal table
Type of crowd: foodies, tourists
Interior: elegant & luxe
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • Le Figaro (2011) “Une quinzaine de convives venus partager un menu-dégustation (10 petits plats bouchées) épousant l’harmonie mets-vins. Plutôt chic, anglophone et visiblement succesfull puisque l’agenda affiche complet jusqu’à la mi-septembre.”
  • The New York Times (2010) “For the proprietors, being out of public view and restricting access offers greater autonomy and much more intimacy with clients. In this private Paris, discretion is valued over ostentation, and a family-like atmosphere is appreciated far more than mass appeal.”
  • Meg Zimbeck (2009) “Reserve well in advance for an inspired dinner, free-flowing wine and the chance to make new friends in a beautiful Parisian apartment.”
  • David Lebovitz (2009) “… impeccably fresh, and inventive.”
  • Travel + Leisure (2008) “The professional chefs from Seattle used their knife skills, and delicious market ingredients, to make new friends in a foreign city. Some 10,000 dinners later, their social circle could fill a small arrondissement.”
  • Food & Wine (2008) “After just 18 months, their dining atelier, which is also their apartment, has seen hundreds of diners, resulting in exponential expansion of their social circle—and buzz.  Dinners, which start with an aperitif and end with petit fours presented in a silver jewel box, are as artful as they are delicious.”
  • Clotilde Dusoulier (2007) “…a highly promising dinner, each dish tastefully plated, well balanced, and clean-flavored, projecting an energy that, to me, epitomizes contemporary American cuisine.”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

L'Hédoniste by Barbra Austin

L’Hédoniste

NOW CLOSED This Sentier address offers a streamlined menu of contemporary cooking, with global accents, and (comme il faut, these days) natural wines.

Practical information

Address: 14 rue Léopold Bellan, 75002
Nearest transport: Sentier (3)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 40 26 87 33
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a33ccbde98639f850&ll=48.866806,2.345989&spn=0.006931,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes:
Type of crowd: foodies, neighborhood locals
Interior: polished & modern
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

NOW CLOSED

  • John Talbott (2012) “… the welcome is still just as warm and the offerings are still quite appealing…”
  • Caroline Mignot (2011) “Les prix pardi ! 28,50 € la formule déjeuner (entrée-plat ou plat-dessert, 35 € les 3), certes gourmande et raffinée (vous verrez), mais à midi, ça peut refroidir.”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2011) “…first courses were delicious…green asparagus served with fava beans and a plump ravioli filled with creamy goat cheese… ‘tataki’ (thin slices) of beef with a light sauce of reduced beef jus and beets…clams in a gently briny bouillon spiked by galanga…All three dishes showed off the kitchen’s cosmopolitan imagination and precise cooking skills….Given the excellent quality of the cooking, the friendly service, and the reasonable prices here, this is an address I’ve already been back to two more times, and one at which I expect to become a regular…”
  • François Simon (2011) “En entrée, un céviche puis des saint jacques avec radis et navets. Ce fut un vrai bonheur précis et enlevé. Ce genre d’adresse sur laquelle vous vous retournez dans la rue. Hautement recommandable.”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2011) “L’une des heureuses surprises du moment, où, selon le désormais classique refrain du «rien dans le décor, tout dans l’assiette», une épatante sève de cuisine en vertu bistrotière parvient à faire oublier une salle veule, ingrate, dépourvue de toute gaieté.”
  • Barbra Austin via Girls’ Guide to Paris (2011) “This contemporary bistro may not justify a trip across town but is a great choice after a day strolling around Montorgueil or les Halles.”
  • John Talbott (2010) “If Chicago is Sinatra’s kind of town, L’Hedoniste is my kind of restaurant/bistro – inventive cooking in a neat setting with reasonable prices.  This is the find of 2011.”
  • Chrisoscope(2010) “…hautement recommandable…de belles assiettes réalisées par un chef, Sébastien Dubrulle, qui a déjà fait ses preuves et confirme son talent. En salle, un jeune restaurateur, Arthur Pétillault, et une jeune femme aimable, Kathleen Mayer, qui connaissent très bien leurs sujets…”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

Le 104

Les Grandes Tables du 104

The open kitchen food hall of the 104 cultural center, housed in what used to be the public morgue.

Practical information

Address: 5 rue Curial, 75019
Nearest transport: Riquet (7)
Hours: Closed Monday
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 01 40 37 10 07
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.fr/maps/ms?hl=fr&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a352a0327d572604a&ll=48.889699,2.37136&spn=0.006927,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Fusion
Special attributes: market-based cooking, good for groups, good for solo dining, open Sunday
Type of crowd: hipsters, foodies, bobos, neighborhood locals
Interior: polished & modern
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • François-Régis Gaudry – l’Express (2010) “Au sujet de mon dîner de hier soir, je me demande encore ce qu’il y avait à sauver… Le décor loftien peut-être, avec ses supensions industrielles et son enchêtrement de gros tuyaux au plafond ; les prix ras le béton, aussi. Pour le reste, je suis bien obligé de cocher les cases « bof », voire carrément  »beurk »”
  • John Talbott (2010) “Great menu; 28 E for dinner and weekends, 17 E for weekday lunches for three dishes and the menu changes regularly….razor clams and squid with potatoes and piquillos and a mushroom soup with combawa (yah we had to ask too – sort of Pacific Ocean limes) and veggies – both were simply delicious.”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “Bonne pâte un peu paumée, perdue dans l’environnement, déracinée, du moins malhabile à concilier la sève rustique et le sens de la plastique. Le propos est sincère, le ticket peu dispendieux mais on a ici ce sentiment d’une gastronomie comme subventionnée.”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

Zinc Caius by Brett Corbin

Zinc Caïus

Now closed. 

Reviews of interest 

(Now closed)

  • Barbra Austin (2010) “…a meal here is just as memorable as one served by its sophisticated sibling.”
  • Le Figaro (2010) “Dans ce cadre mimi tout plein, une ardoise qui s’acoquine aux meilleurs produits…”
  • Phyllis Flick (2009) “It’s too bad that every neighbourhood doesn’t have a restaurant like Jean Marc Notelet’s recently-opened, pocket-sized bistro, Zinc Caius.”
  • John Talbott (2009) “…two of us had the slab of beef (entrecote) which…was terrific, and a tartare of beef with polenta frites (warning to all the ships at sea – me, the great mashed potato ignoramus and polenta hater, loved both such versions here.)”
  • Caroline Mignot (2009) “L’ardoise est blanchie de 2, 3 entrées, à peine plus de plats et de quelques desserts, tout fait envie, tout est piqué de gourmandise.”
  • Le Fooding “Où déjeuner un samedi à 14 heures du côté de l’Etoile ? Au Zinc Caïus pardi!”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it to parisbymouth@gmail.com.

 

 

La Bigarrade by Meg Zimbeck

Bigarrade

Chef Christophe Pélé sold and left Bigarrade in early 2012. Chef Yasuhiro Kanayama has taken over, to much acclaim.

Practical information

Address: 106 rue Nollet, 75017
Nearest transport: Brochant (13)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Saturday; lunch, Tuesday-Friday; Closed Saturday, closed Sunday
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 42 26 01 02
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a35f6216bf46121b0&ll=48.88897,2.318319&spn=0.006927,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 50-99€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, no-choice menu, open Monday
Type of crowd: foodies
Interior: polished & modern
Atmosphere: formal

Reviews of interest

  • Alexander Lobrano (2012) “…superb…Though compatible with Pele’s approach, Kanayama’s cooking is actually much subtler and even more quietly provocative when it comes to sensual contrasts of texture, as seen in a sublime little dish of lobster with grilled banana in lemon-verbena foam…La Bigarrade remains an urgently well-recommended…”
  • John Talbott (2012) “it’s a “forced” or “surprise” menu and the plates (with identifying announcements in French or English) roll out one after another…A strawberry/foie gras concoction, marinated fish with microtomed cauliflower, razor clams with petit pois and apricots…barbue with carrots and orange slices, veal with cabbage…Go? Goodness yes.”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012 – new chef) “…microcompositions tellement graciles…Tout est très soigné, précis, méticuleux, sûrement cérébral et peut-être plein de sentiment, seulement voilà, on ne peut s’interdire cette impression de manger la bouche en cul-de-poule…”
  • Bruno Verjus (2011) “Ici réside l’âme de la cuisine. La précision, le ballet de la gestuelle du chef, l’intelligence des mets, des saveurs, me laissent à chaque fois sans voix et presque sans mot… Du génie à l’état pur!”
  • Meg Zimbeck (2010) “…deflating and befuddled. It was cluttered and careless, like a teenager’s MySpace page that uses seven different fonts. We were subjected, over and over again, to pairings that made absolutely no sense.”
  • Thierry Richard (2009) “Belle, étonnante, subtile et sacrément bien maîtrisée la cuisine de Christophe Pelé est un ravissement.”
  • John Talbott (2008) “…it didn’t come off for any of us as over a 5/10 meal… It is often said that Bigarrade is the “new Spring”, but we think it is not.”
  • François Simon (2008) “…franchement, c’est brillant.”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

Le Bistrot du 20ème by John Talbott

Le Bistrot du 20e

An old-fashioned bistro, open every day.

Practical information

Address: 203 ave Gambetta, 75020
Nearest transport: St. Fargeau (3bis)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 40 31 86 07
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.fr/maps/ms?hl=fr&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a3525ae0d9757d69c&ll=48.873231,2.40478&spn=0.00693,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, open Sunday, open Monday
Type of crowd: neighborhood locals
Interior: quirky & playful
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • John Talbott (2010) “…old bistro cooking with modern sensibilities…”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2010) “…quelques plats débonnaires parviennent à incarner en amusant l’estomac dans un quartier régulièrement inscrit aux appétits absents.”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.