The man behind the curtain in this white-on-white, Kubrick-esque space in the new Mandarin Oriental is molecular master Thierry Marx. Lunch menu, 70€; dinner, 145€ or 180€.
After leaving his post at the rococo, subterranean Konfidential, Gagnaire- and Adria-alum Akrame Benallal has resurfaced with a sleek, eponymous restaurant in the 16th, where he continues to serve up his creative, globally-influenced cooking in a no-choice menu format. Weekday lunch formules at 25€ and 35€, otherwise 45€ and 55€ for four or five courses, respectively.
Happy Plates
- Thierry Richard adores Café de Mars, a “luminous” corner bistro near the Eiffel Tower where the seasonal, southern-accented food is “sans chichi” but “imaginative,” the service “young and affable” and you can get out the door for about 20€. [Chroniques du Plaisir]
- Buffalo mozzarella direct from small producers, vino naturale, Sicilian olive oils…Bruno Verjus calls Italian cheese peddler/épicerie/caviste Mmmozza a “mmmust go.” [Food Intelligence]
The neo-classical pavillion off the Champs-Elysées that houses Ledoyen is owned by the city of Paris, which seems to make sense given that this is one of the city’s oldest and most grand restaurants.
Pierre Gagnaire is widely regarded as one of the city’s most creative culinary wizards.
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A Year in the Mouth
