Book many weeks in advance for a seat at this fantastic table d’hotes, run by a young American couple in their apartment near Palais Royal. Ten courses, including bubbly and wine pairings. OCTOBER 2011: Hidden Kitchen has closed, but you can find the pair at their new venture, Verjus.
Brash, Basque, and belly-filling, a meal at l’Ami Jean can be coma-inducing. Reserve in advance, and plan on walking home.
After leaving his post at the rococo, subterranean Konfidential, Gagnaire- and Adria-alum Akrame Benallal has resurfaced with a sleek, eponymous restaurant in the 16th, where he continues to serve up his creative, globally-influenced cooking in a no-choice menu format. Weekday lunch formules at 25€ and 35€, otherwise 45€ and 55€ for four or five courses, respectively.
There’s no menu at Konfidential, hidden in a 15th century cave below a boutique hotel of the same name, only the whim and skill of chef Akrame Benallal, who has worked for Pierre Gagnaire and Ferran Adria. Konsider yourself warned/informed. UPDATE (April 2011): Chef Benallal has moved on to open Akrame.
Reserve well in advance for a seat at the counter where you, and a handful of other lucky ducks, can watch Kyoto chef Eichi Edakuni prepare a modern Japanese feast before your eyes. The no-choice, 8-10 course menu is 45€, easily augmented with something from the extensive sake list.
“Challenging” might be an apt word for La Bigarrade. For one thing, it remains one of the most difficult reservations to secure. But more than that, young chef Christophe Pelé’s cuisine is experimental and spare, sometimes audaciously minimalist. Many love it, others are not convinced.
Bring some friends to share a bottle and a copper pot bubbling with Bertrand Bluy’s market-inspired dish of the day. The fixed menu offers great value but no choices – those looking for variety should turn their attention to the impressive wine shelf.
Giovanni Passerini’s modern market cooking at Rino reflects his Mediterranean heritage and, to no small degree, his experience working for Petter NIlsson at nearby La Gazzetta. One of the most discussed tables when it opened in spring of 2010.
Cédric Casanova works with olive growers in western Sicily to produce a dozen or so superb oils, available at this closet of a shop along with other Sicilian specialties. One table for five is available for lunch or dinner featuring these products, but you’ll have to call far in advance if you want it to be yours.
By day, Olivier Camus runs one of the most respected caves of natural wine in the city. In the evenings, it becomes a table d’hôte. A Wed-Sat prix-fixe dinner offers four no-choice courses for 31.50€, and Sunday nights are à la carte.
Here’s the situation: You can only reserve for the first seating at Le Chateaubriand. After that, you’ll have to wait in line with everyone else for a stab at Iñaki Aizpitarte’s unique (that’s putting it mildly), 50€ menu, a parade of forgotten vegetables, fish, and meat (some raw, some cooked) that landed the restaurant on San Pellegrino’s 50 Best list last year.
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- La Tache 1962 on Our Guide to Paris: BigarradeNot in 2012, but I promised to do so when they have the Coutume coffee. Which they will be tasting monday I...
- Meg on Our Guide to Paris: BigarradeYou make a compelling case, my dear Tache. Have you been back to l'Astrance lately? It's been ages since I read anything...
- Meg from Paris by Mouth on Restaurant Radar: Paris food news & reviewsDear GP, Thanks for taking the time to respond, and I will gladly accept your word when you tell us that you...
- Gilles Pudlowski on Restaurant Radar: Paris food news & reviewsSorry... for you, but I'have payed the bill at the marvelous Albion and I was guested by a friend at Fish. But,...
- Steve Zimmerman on Our Guide to Paris: A la Biche au BoisI'm commenting on my own comment. We returned to Paris in Sept. 2011, dined at Biche twice. Still the same wonderful food...
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