Tag Archives: no-choice menu

Hidden Kitchen

Hidden Kitchen (Closed)

Book many weeks in advance for a seat at this fantastic table d’hotes, run by a young American couple in their apartment near Palais Royal. 100€ for ten courses, including bubbly and wine pairings. OCTOBER 2011: Hidden Kitchen is now closed, but you can find the pair at their new venture Verjus.

Practical information

Address: 75001
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Contact: e-mail hkreservations@gmail.com
Website

Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: American
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, no-choice menu, communal table
Type of crowd: foodies, tourists
Interior: elegant & luxe
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • Le Figaro (2011) “Une quinzaine de convives venus partager un menu-dégustation (10 petits plats bouchées) épousant l’harmonie mets-vins. Plutôt chic, anglophone et visiblement succesfull puisque l’agenda affiche complet jusqu’à la mi-septembre.”
  • The New York Times (2010) “For the proprietors, being out of public view and restricting access offers greater autonomy and much more intimacy with clients. In this private Paris, discretion is valued over ostentation, and a family-like atmosphere is appreciated far more than mass appeal.”
  • Meg Zimbeck (2009) “Reserve well in advance for an inspired dinner, free-flowing wine and the chance to make new friends in a beautiful Parisian apartment.”
  • David Lebovitz (2009) “… impeccably fresh, and inventive.”
  • Travel + Leisure (2008) “The professional chefs from Seattle used their knife skills, and delicious market ingredients, to make new friends in a foreign city. Some 10,000 dinners later, their social circle could fill a small arrondissement.”
  • Food & Wine (2008) “After just 18 months, their dining atelier, which is also their apartment, has seen hundreds of diners, resulting in exponential expansion of their social circle—and buzz.  Dinners, which start with an aperitif and end with petit fours presented in a silver jewel box, are as artful as they are delicious.”
  • Clotilde Dusoulier (2007) “…a highly promising dinner, each dish tastefully plated, well balanced, and clean-flavored, projecting an energy that, to me, epitomizes contemporary American cuisine.”

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Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

Konfidential

Konfidential

There’s no menu at Konfidential, hidden in a 15th century cave below a boutique hotel of the same name, only the whim and skill of chef Akrame Benallal, who has worked for Pierre Gagnaire and Ferran Adria. Konsider yourself warned/informed. UPDATE (April 2011): Chef Benallal has moved on to open Akrame.

Practical information

Address: 64 rue de l’Arbre Sec, 75001
Nearest transport: Louvre-Rivoli (1)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 53 34 40 40
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a33adc407a643c91c&ll=48.861519,2.342564&spn=0.006931,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, no-choice menu, open Monday
Type of crowd: suits, style hounds
Interior: elegant & luxe
Atmosphere: romantic

Reviews of interest

  • Alexander Lobrano (2010) “…our first course–finely sliced scallops in a light seafood bouillon with toasted rice grains…a delicate and very pleasant dish…This was a menu that had been dexterously designed to encourage romance…if you’re shopping a venue for an amusing tete a tete meal with good food, you might like this place…”
  • François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2010) “Un grand talent, caché dans une petite cave…Il n’y a pas grand monde pour faire l’effort de descendre dans cette petite cave aveugle et voûtée pas franchement engageante, avec ses velours beigeasses, ses sets de table dorés, son mobilier néorococo un peu cheap et son feu de cheminée sur écran plat…Akrame Benallal fait l’effet d’un naufragé sur une île déserte qui fait des grands signes face à l’horizon dans l’espoir qu’on le repère.”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “Il y a quelque chose de gentiment schizo dans cette table qui, à trop se voir planquée (en cave, sous les pierres voûtées d’un petit hôtel boudoir), se cherche une contenance en surjouant des menus surprises un poil fardés…”

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Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

La Bigarrade by Meg Zimbeck

Bigarrade

Chef Christophe Pélé sold and left Bigarrade in early 2012. Chef Yasuhiro Kanayama has taken over, to much acclaim.

Practical information

Address: 106 rue Nollet, 75017
Nearest transport: Brochant (13)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Saturday; lunch, Tuesday-Friday; Closed Saturday, closed Sunday
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 42 26 01 02
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a35f6216bf46121b0&ll=48.88897,2.318319&spn=0.006927,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 50-99€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, no-choice menu, open Monday
Type of crowd: foodies
Interior: polished & modern
Atmosphere: formal

Reviews of interest

  • Alexander Lobrano (2012) “…superb…Though compatible with Pele’s approach, Kanayama’s cooking is actually much subtler and even more quietly provocative when it comes to sensual contrasts of texture, as seen in a sublime little dish of lobster with grilled banana in lemon-verbena foam…La Bigarrade remains an urgently well-recommended…”
  • John Talbott (2012) “it’s a “forced” or “surprise” menu and the plates (with identifying announcements in French or English) roll out one after another…A strawberry/foie gras concoction, marinated fish with microtomed cauliflower, razor clams with petit pois and apricots…barbue with carrots and orange slices, veal with cabbage…Go? Goodness yes.”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012 – new chef) “…microcompositions tellement graciles…Tout est très soigné, précis, méticuleux, sûrement cérébral et peut-être plein de sentiment, seulement voilà, on ne peut s’interdire cette impression de manger la bouche en cul-de-poule…”
  • Bruno Verjus (2011) “Ici réside l’âme de la cuisine. La précision, le ballet de la gestuelle du chef, l’intelligence des mets, des saveurs, me laissent à chaque fois sans voix et presque sans mot… Du génie à l’état pur!”
  • Meg Zimbeck (2010) “…deflating and befuddled. It was cluttered and careless, like a teenager’s MySpace page that uses seven different fonts. We were subjected, over and over again, to pairings that made absolutely no sense.”
  • Thierry Richard (2009) “Belle, étonnante, subtile et sacrément bien maîtrisée la cuisine de Christophe Pelé est un ravissement.”
  • John Talbott (2008) “…it didn’t come off for any of us as over a 5/10 meal… It is often said that Bigarrade is the “new Spring”, but we think it is not.”
  • François Simon (2008) “…franchement, c’est brillant.”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

Rino by Meg Zimbeck

Rino (CLOSED)

Giovanni Passerini made a name for Rino with his modern market cooking and handmade pastas. He sold Rino in late 2013. NOW CLOSED

Practical information

Address: 46 rue Trousseau 75011 – NOW CLOSED

[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a3c90f83e2b8a9549&ll=48.852546,2.379141&spn=0.013865,0.038581&z=15 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.

Reviews of interest

  • François Simon (2010) “…une table agréable et valeureuse.”
  • Barbra Austin (2010) “a parade of very pretty plates… a fantastic escabeche of rouget with white asparagus…sardine ravioli in fennel consommé…a thick, trembling cut of cod with pil pil sauce..”
  • Meg Zimbeck (2010) “I was delighted…There’s something really fun about looking at a menu and having no idea about the taste of the proposed dishes.”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2010) “Simple, sincere, delicious, intense, this was one of the best meals I’ve eaten in a longtime…”
  • Phyllis Flick (2010) “…daring market-based cuisine is light without the use of heavy sauces, using the best of seasonal ingredients including stunning vegetables…”
  • John Talbott (2010) “Great fish, wonderful chef and waitstaff, otherwise OK.”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “Une cuisine d’entre slam et ring, tout à la fois énergique, dans l’élan, dans l’influx, épatante à jongler entre le naturel et le juteux…”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.