Tag Archives: nose to tail eating

Le Repaire de Cartouche by Meg Zimbeck

Le Repaire de Cartouche

Chef Rodolphe Paquin continues to gets high marks for simple, hearty food and massive wine list. In May 2014, he transformed the lower dining room (entrance on rue Amelot) into a wine bar specializing in terrines and small plates to accompany.

Practical information

Address: 8 boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, 75011
Nearest transport: St. Sebastian Froissart (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 47 00 25 86
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

Jérôme Berger – l’Express (2009) “…ce troquet ‘tradi’ sert sur un plateau le gibier, en saison s’il vous plaît. Pas avant ni après…”

David Lebovitz (2009) “…it’s sad to see the dining room staff not take pride in the food they were offering, and not do even a halfway-decent job serving it. It’s especially unfortunate when the kitchen is working so hard to make such great food…”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “I’ve had several complaints about the service at Le Repaire de Cartouche and also at Mon Vieil Ami, and so I’m putting both restaurants on a watch list…”

Barbra Austin (2009) “Fungi popped up all over the menu…Tiny mousserons were piled atop a tender veal loin.  Minced champignons in mustard and cream sauced a venison chop…A roasted pheasant breast was handily upstaged by the mix of diced cèpes and cabbage that accompanied it…”

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bistrot paul bert tarte tatin

Bistrot Paul Bert

The menu at this perennial favorite is seasonally-minded, and a carnivore’s paradise. Not for the faint of heart, or appetite.

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 18 rue Paul Bert, 75011
Nearest transport: Faidherbe-Chaligny (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 72 24 01
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2011) “…rapport simple au produit et ce culte de la gourmandise. Même soin apporté à la terrine de campagne maison qu’aux envolées plus fines (pigeon rôti et petits légumes ; lotte au gingembre…) et aux incontournables, dont le mythique paris-brest.”

Bruno Verjus (2011) “Ici l’on tâte et gâte le gourmand. Alors dérive et file le temps au gré de nourritures terrestres. Les desserts, par leurs énormes tailles créent un rapport d’enfance – tendre prodigalité. Du bon, du très bon, du généreux, un véritable bis trop.”

Patricia Wells (2010) “Last night at one of my favorite little places –Le  Bistrot Paul Bert in the 11th — I adored the addition of thinly sliced raw green asparagus. I’ve always preferred to braise my asparagus, but the earthy flavors of these raw veggies changed my mind!… Worth the journey, for sure.”

David Lebovitz (2010) “…it’s hard to go wrong with anything here. You can order from the fixed price menu or split a Côte de Boeuf (steak for two, which they will not cook further than medium-rare), which includes house made frites.”

Meg Zimbeck via Girls’ Guide to Paris (2010) “For those who are sincere in their desire to taste classic bistro fare, there are few places better than Le Bistrot Paul Bert.”

Alexander Lobrano via David Lebovitz (2009) “This crowded and very popular place is one of my favorite bistros in Paris…”

Barbra Austin (2009) “This one is on many people’s list of favorites, including mine…”

François Simon “Un de mes adresses préférées. Gourmand, puissant avec une carte des vins à perdre la nacre de vos yeux…”

Dorie Greenspan (2008) “…one of my hands-down favorite bistros…”

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Maison David by John Talbott

Maison David

Squeeze into this tiny butcher shop for lunch and watch owner Michel Kalifa in action.

Practical information

Address: 6 rue des Ecouffes, 75004
Nearest transport: Saint Paul (1)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Monday; lunch other days, 1-3 p.m. Dinner available for private parties only.
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 01 42 78 15 76
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Jewish
Special attributes: nose to tail eating, good for solo dining, open Sunday

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2011) “A tiny place, a short plexiglass counter with all sorts of meats and herring and gravlax… 4-5 spots on which to set a piece of coldcut, a glass of wine or a plate….Go? If you’re two, don’t mind standing, chatting and stuffing yourself with great meat – be my guest!”

Le Fooding (2011) “une irréductible et fantaisiste boucherie casher-friendly attend les carnassiers avec une formule ‘Dégustation-debout-au-comptoir-du-maître-artisan-boucher-charcutier.”

 

 

 

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Chez Grenouille by Meg Zimbeck

Chez Grenouille

An address for old school charcuterie and meat of all kinds.

Practical information

Address: 52 rue Blanche, 75009
Nearest transport: Trinité (12) or Liege (13)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday-Friday; dinner only on Saturday; closed Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 42 81 34 07
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: market-based cooking, good for game , nose to tail eating, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2010) ” Though the quality of the meal was much better-than-average overall…this is a very sad spot in which to have a meal.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “…house-made terrines and high cholesterol…”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “ouvert par…Alexis Blanchard, qui a pris avec lui tous ses prix, de meilleur boudin, pied de porc à la cassine, tête pressée, terrine, ouvre ses entrailles pour vous donner le meilleur de ce qui serait presque considéré comme impolitiquement correct aujourd’hui…

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2010) “… Les végétariens détalent, les autres se régalent.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “Les quatre syllabes de « charcuterie » auraient suffi…les ris, les tripes, la tourte, les terrines, la gueule de veau gribiche, la queue de bœuf…”

John Talbott (2010) “… a great idea in pretty much of a culinary desert.”

 

 

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ribouldingueviabarbraaustin

Ribouldingue

Le Ribouldingue is not for the faint of heart, but for those who want to eat it. Heart, that is. And bones and liver and tongue and kidney.

Practical information

Address: 10 rue St. Julien le Pauvre, 75005
Nearest transport: St. Michel (4, RER B, C)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
Telephone: 01 46 33 98 80
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, nose to tail eating

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2011) “…tete de veau with gribiche sauce…veal kidneys with potatoes dauphinoise – both delicious.”

Bruno Verjus (2011) “Tétines, cervelle, ris, moelle, rognon, langue, coeur, … Le monde intérieur en pièces détachées et rissolées…des abats parfaits et digestes…”

Le Figaro (2009) “…adeptes des abats hauts en saveur…la salade de tétines croustillantes, les pieds de cochon en parmentier, la langue de veau en carpaccio, l’os à moelle rôti…”

Le Fooding “Ris de veau, tétine de vache, queue de bœuf et pied de cochon méritaient bien cet élégant – quoique exigu – boudoir gourmand pour se livrer en toute intimité…”

Barbra Austin (2008) “Ribouldingue specializes in offal and odd parts. Tongue, kidney, liver, brain, you name it. Squeamish types can order the beef cheeks and be perfectly happy…”

Chrisoscope (2007) “…Cervelle d’agneau fondante à souhait, comme dans mes souvenirs d’enfance, cachés au fond de la mienne (de petite cervelle), servie avec des gousses d’ail, des petites patates et quelques capres avec leur tige. Un régal! Pain de campagne très bon, trop bon!…”

 

 

 

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