Address: 56 Passage des Panoramas, 75002
Nearest transport: Grands Boulevards (8, 9)
Hours: Dinner Mon-Sat (closed Sun)
Reservations: not accepted
Telephone: 01 44 82 00 62
Average price for dinner: €10-19
Style of cuisine: Japanese
Our weekly roundup of Paris restaurant news, including reviews of newcomers Gyoza Bar, La Cantine du Troquet Dupleix, and Coq Rico, notes on the wine bars Verjus, Aux Verres de Contact, Le Dauphin and Le Pas Sage, plus a visit to Sur Mesure by Thierry Marx.
Aaron Ayscough encounters “filthy-risky” wine and horse tartare at Aux Deux Amis, Bruno Verjus calls Passage 53 a must-eat, and Gaudry reveals that Cédric Cassanova is set to open two new places. These stories, plus dumb cupcakes and murky ravioli in today’s Bite…
Happy Plates
- After two trips to Candelaria in one week, Camille reports on the “best tacos this side of Juarez,” the excellent corn tostada, and the promise of pastor in the very near future. She managed to remember these details after a visit to the semi-hidden cocktail bar in the back, where she indulged in the “dangerously drinkable” Guêpe Verte before doing tequila body shots on the bar*. [Croque Camille] For a more detailed behind-the-scenes look at Candelaria from the fella who designed the bar and a lot of its furniture, check out Adrian Rubi-Dentzel’s post at Trail of Crumbs.
- Talbott tries out Kei and, while he finds some of Kobayashi’s dishes to be overly ethereal and over his head, he raves about the crispy-skinned sea bass with truffled salsify and the veal with baby spinach and 1/2 of a single Noirmoutier potato. He says he’ll be back (for the other tater half?) [John Talbott's Paris]

Photo Bruno Verjus (Food Intelligence)
Michelin Guide France 2011
The Michelin Guide has just announced its annual star shower, with the following changes for Paris restos:
- New 3* designations: none. This is the first year since 1992 without any new three-star restaurants. Le Cinq was rumored to be a contender, but will remain a 2* for at least one more year.
- New 2* designations: Passage 53, L’Atelier Etoile de Joël Robuchon, and Jean-François Piège.
- New 1* designations: Frédéric Simonin, Les Ambassadeurs, Le Baudelaire, Sensing, Antoine, and Le Fourchette de Printemps.
- Deletions: La Table de Joël Robuchon (now closed) and Montparnasse 25.
Gilles Pudlowski names his Best of the Year (everything from chefs to cheesemongers), Emmanuel Rubin finds melancholy and silence at Le Grand B, two more critics sing the praises of Le Pantruche, and Alec Lobrano samples the pleasure-giving art of dim sum at Yoom.
Outside, it’s the city’s oldest covered passage. Inside, it’s some of this city’s most forward-thinking cuisine. Chef Shinishi Sato and his Japanese team make precise, poetic use of pristine French ingredients (Desnoyer, Thiébault, Bordier…) and have recently earned a second Michelin star.
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