Ho ho ho! We hope that you’ve enjoyed counting down the days before Christmas with a new Bûche de Noël every morning. Our final cake, boasting edible fungus and a silver saw, comes from Pierre Hermé. Happy holidays, everyone!
Gerard Mulot offers a visual feast of grand cakes and tarts, tiny and tempting petit-fours, chocolates worthy of their own boutique, a case of savory prepared foods, and good baguettes to boot. One stop shopping, à la Parisienne.
This new bakery sells only one thing, and (hallelujah) it isn’t cupcakes or macarons. No, Popelini — named for the Italian cook who supposedly invented pâte à choux — sells cream puffs. Tiny, adorable cream puffs.
Sweet Teeth
- Adam defends one of the neglected middle children of the Ladurée pastry family, delighting in the textural contrasts of the Harmonie. “Sticky, chewy, lightly dry shell vs. buttery crème vs. bursting fruits. All are at odds and yet so beautifully in-tune – like the curious clothing selections of the American hipster. Those neon yellow Chuck Taylors, skin-tight acid-washed jeans, and seafoam green glasses really DO go together . . . somehow.” [Paris Pâtisseries]
Upcoming Events
- After their recent 100% Végétal event, Omnivore is returning to tackle the hog. The 100% Cochon dinner on Monday April 11th will feature Julien Duboué (Afaria, Dans les Landes), Sébastien de la Borde, and a whole lotta pig parts. The €35 price includes a glass of bubbles to begin. Reservations here.
Happy Plates
- Pudlo says that you’d have to be deaf, dumb, or blind – probably all three – to not appreciate the “good, splendid, magnificent” (plus 12 more adjectives) cooking of Japanese “virtuoso” chef Kei Kobayashi. Reading between the lines, I think he likes it. [Gilles Pudlowski]
Sweet Teeth
- Paris’ newest pastry fetishist devotes 550 words and more than a million pixels to le Divin, an overlooked raspberry gem from Ladurée. “The net effect is no less than a pastry dreamworld of flavors and sensations.” I want some of whatever he and Pudlo are smoking. [Paris Pâtisseries]
This wildly creative pastry shop is known for, among other things, a line of multicolored marshmallows, square-shaped tarts, use of unusual flavors (there might be rosemary sticking out of your gateau), and a baba that receives its dose of rum from a hypodermic needle. There’s bread, too, if you’re just looking for a baguette.
Pascal Guerreau now runs this longstanding bakery, pastry, and chocolate shop.
A hit since it opened in fall of 2009, this modern and playful pastry shop has won raves for its Paris-Brest. The rue du Bac location is take-away only, but in the 16th you’ll find a full-service tea salon with outdoor seating. A dream, indeed.
Madman Jacques Genin started the made-to-order millefeuille craze, but that’s only one reason to visit his chic haut-Marais shop and tea salon. Some others? The chocolates, the caramels, the éclairs, the tarte au citron, the…sigh.
Make a pot of mint tea or strong black coffee and bite into these fragrant, sticky-sweet Algerian pastries.
The “bread” part of Bread & Roses is a lovely range of organic loaves. The rest of it is an English-accented lunch spot and tea salon featuring fresh tarts (savory and sweet), sandwiches, and lively salads, plus flaky scones, serious cheesecake, and a few grocery items, including Marmite. What you won’t find are any bargains.
Nineteenth century Russian nobles spoke French, but the French pastries at this salon de thé in the Printemps department store have a Russian accent. A kvass-spiked Paris-Moscou replaces the Paris-Brest, and a Charlotte becomes Charlotka in the hands of chef Emmanuel Ryon, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France. There are macarons, too, bien sur.
Our illustrious group of contributing advisors and the judges of Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris agree that Gosselin produces one of the best baguettes in Paris (#2 and #5 respectively). The pastries are gorgeous, too.
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A Year in the Mouth
