Tag Archives: pâtisserie

Sébastien Gaudard

Sébastien Gaudard, formerly of Delicabar — has taken over this longstanding rue des Martyrs pâtisserie, where he’s sticking with the classics.

Practical information

Address: 22 rue des Martyrs, 75009
Nearest transport: Notre Dame de Lorette (12)
Hours: Tuesday-Friday, 10am-8pm; Saturday, 9am-8pm; Sunday, 9am-2pm; closed Monday
Telephone: 01 71 18 24 70

Reviews of interest

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2012) “Son projet est aussi modeste qu’ambitieux : redonner vie aux gâteaux Vieille France, aux entremets Trente Glorieuses, à tous ces desserts qui l’ont fait saliver dans la boulangerie-pâtisserie de ses parents : les puits d’amour, le paris-brest, le mussipontain…”

La Pâtisserie by Cyril Lignac

Across from his bistro Le Chardenoux, media-loving chef Cyril Lignac now has a pâtisserie in his roster.

Practical information

Address: 24 rue Paul Bert, 75011
Nearest transport: Faidherbe – Chaligny (8) or Charonne (9)
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 7am-8pm; closed Monday
Telephone: 01 43 72 74 88

Additional locations

Address: 2 rue de Chaillot, 75016
Nearest transport: Alma-Marceau (9)
Hours: Closed Tuesdays; Open Monday and Wednesday-Saturday from 7:30am-8pm
Telephone: 01 47 20 64 51

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2014) #3 madeleine in Paris

Caroline Mignot (2014) “Cyril Lignac… m’a très gentiment fait parvenir une nouveauté: le Croc’Noisettes. Un gâteau qui m’évoque l’Armoricain de mon enfance qui se situait entre crème au beurre, noisette et meringue collante aux noisettes… Entre la ganache montée au gianduja aux accents de noisettes et à la légèreté d’une crème mousseuse (les grosses boules de couleur beige) et la fine feuille de chocolat poudrée de beige posée sur le dessus, se cache un pur praliné très croustillant.”

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2012) “…la tarte aux framboises  de la Pâtisserie by Cyril Lignac,…ce fut un régal à l’unanimité…. En bouche, tout se mélange dans une harmonie parfaite…”

David Lebovitz (2012) “…excellent croissants…beautifully crisp slender baguettes…The tarte citron looks like a tasty puzzle, with carefully-piped dollops of lemon custard topped with little disks of lemony sugar. Éclairs are stuffed with gianduja, a mixture of dark milk chocolate and hazelnut cream, and macarons get dusted with fine crumbs of Speculoos…”

Un Dimanche à Paris

This chocolatier and pâtisserie is run by Pierre Cluizel of the renowned chocolate-making family. The chocolate theme continues in the attached restaurant and cocktail lounge.

Practical information

Address: 4-6-8 cour du Commerce St. André, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 56 81 18 18
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

Forrest Collins (2011) “All of their cocktails include chocolate and are served slightly warmer than usual to allow appreciation of its flavor in the drink… Mikael determines customers’ likes and dislikes to create custom cocktails based on their tastes…an interesting deviation from the standard cocktail fare for sophisticated sippers with a sweet tooth.”

Paris Pâtisseries (2011) “I’ve grown a little addicted to Un Dimanche à Paris…get yourself a Choux Pistache. It’s creamy. It’s fruity. It’s delicious.”

David Lebovitz (2011) “The line up of little pastries were lovely. A small, gooey chocolate disk topped with a moist puddle of ganache, a petit éclair filled with chocolate, a pistachio macaron (made by someone a little too enthusiastic with the food coloring), and a perfect, tangy little lemon tartlet topped with a kiss of crunchy meringue.”

François Simon (2011) “Le brunch à 35 euros. Sur la carte, il est drôlement attrayant avec un ruissellement de pâtisseries (madeleine, éclair, gâteau au chocolat), de pains, de yaourt, jus de fruit, boisson chaude et omelette au saumon mariné…En fait…C’est un brunch pour lilliputien avec ces fameuses séquences allusives propres à la gastronomie. Le désir par le manque, l’attirance de l’absence, c’est un genre.”

Photo via Un Dimanche à Paris’ Facebook

Jacques Genin has stopped making pastry

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Today at Jacques Genin, atop the glass case which previously held his precious desserts, there was a sign. It read (I paraphrase) “chocolate is my first love… I want to give it my full attention… from this day forward, no more pastry.”

I had a visceral reaction to this news. My mouth went dry. My brain started rewinding through all of the desserts I had enjoyed in this room. A long-forgotten Sara McLachlan song crept up to provide the soundtrack as I considered: no more tarte tatin with the crackly burnt sugar top. No staggeringly priced wild strawberry tart to save up for in late Spring. Tarts with honey walnut, chocolate ganache, perfect raspberry, and LEMON. Oh God, that lemon tart, with variations like rosemary, tarragon and basil! And what about that towering, almost too-tall Paris-Brest with whole toasted hazelnuts spackled on top? Or his éclairs, shiny as a mirror and a different species altogether from the soggy grocery store éclairs of my youth?

Practically speaking, all is not lost. It will still be possible to have a made-to-order millefeuille in the salon. One can order larger desserts (for four or more people) in advance. And of course, the chocolates, caramels and pâtes des fruits will carry on.

However, the individual pastries that I have hysterically mourned are now on hold. Why? Word on the street is that Genin lost his sous-chef and many other hands on his pastry-making team. Rather than put out inferior pastry, he’s narrowing the focus for a time. And this breakup (because that’s what it feels like) may not be permanent, according to the last lines of his letter:

“Que les aficianados ne désespèrent pas ! La pâtisserie n’a pas dit son dernier mot. Gageons qu’elle saura, comme les rêves, réapparaître.”

“But do not despair! The pastry has not uttered its last word. I’m betting that she, like other dreams, will someday reappear.”

Update January 27, 2013: Genin is throwing us a bone, making one daily pastry in addition to the millefeuille. Phyllis Flick reported that she spotted the lemon tart last week.

The 2011 Bûches de Noël

We’re counting down the days until Christmas with a new Bûche de Noël every morning. We’ve also created this Bûche It video for those who want to dance along.

Today’s Bûche du Jour:

Bûche December 25: Crispy dark chocolate praline with a mousse and ganache made from Madagascar chocolate (Millot) on a chewy almond cookie base.

SourcePierre Hermé (90€ for 10/12 people)

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Bûche December 24: “Le Sapin” with caramelized almonds, orange rinds and raisins, all covered in chocolate.

SourcePatrick Roger (35€ for a 14cm tree)

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Bûche December 23: “Bûche Empereur” with coffee and mandarine orange, Moka Sidamo coffee cream, and Périgord walnut cream on a chewy walnut cookie base.

SourcePain de Sucre (32€ for 4 people; 48€ for 6 people; 64€ for 8 people)

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Bûche December 21: The “Bûche Boule de Noël” is composed of pear cream and chestnut mousse on a chewy dark chocolate cookie base.

SourceLadurée (77€ for 6/8 people)

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Bûche December 22: “Letter to Santa” cake with almond dacquoise, Madagascar vanilla mousse and a chocolate praline heart. Gluten free!

Source: (78€ for 8 people)

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Bûche December 20: “La Bûche d’Yquem” is covered in gold leaf, scented with réglisse (licorice) and has a heart of dried apricot, lemon and hazelnut.

Source: Le Meurice (96€ for 5/6 people)

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Bûche December 19: “La Bûche Clémentine de Corse” with a crème brûlée scented with vanilla and clementine, enrobed by chestnut cream and decorated with clementine segments and candied clementine.

Source: Christophe Felder for the Publicis Drugstore (39€ for 6 people)

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Bûche December 18: “Bûche Lenôtre par Sempé” A creamy almond dacquoise, raspberry jelly, crispy praline and chocolate mousse.

Source: (125€ for 8-10 people)

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Bûche December 17: “Buche Equinoxe” with light Bourbon vanilla cream and salted butter caramel on a speculoos cookie base.

Source: La Pâtisserie by Cyril Lignac (40€ for 6/8 people)

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Bûche December 16: “Bûche Léopard” with dark chocolate mousse from Ghana (68% cacao) and coffee crème brûlée.

SourceEric Kayser (48€ for 6 people)

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Bûche December 15: “Snow Choc” with mango and candied lemon with whipped white chocolate cream covered in vanilla marzipan.

SourceFauchon (90€ for 6 people)

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Bûche December 14: “Extrêmement Ludique” with salted butter caramel, caramel cream, and dark chocolate mousse on a cookie base, all enrobed in caramel glaçage.

SourceChristophe Roussel (22€ for 4 people; 33€ for 6 people)

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Bûche December 13: “Monts et Merveilles” with praline mousse studded with caramelized hazelnuts, topped with hazelnut meringue.

SourceArnaud Lahrer (51€ for 6 people)

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Bûche December 12: “Bûche Violette” with white chocolate and vanilla mousse perfumed by violet.

SourceDominique Saibron (24€ for 4 people; 47€ for 12 people)

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Bûche December 11: “Merveilleuse fruitée” with wild strawberry and a mousse of Madagascar chocolate.

SourceMichel Cluizel (54€ for 6 people)

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Bûche December 10: The cake on the left features dark chocolate from Cuba, caramel panacotta, almond nougatine upon a chocolate hazelnut cookie base. The cake on the right has white chocolate, lime, and pistachio nougatine.

SourcePierre Marcolini (30€ for 4 people; 45€ for 6 people)

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Bûche December 9: “Contes de Noël” by Christophe Michalak with Corsican mandarine marmalade and semi-sweet ganache on an almond cookie base, all wrapped in marzipan.

SourceLa Plaza Athénée (125€ for 8 people)

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Bûche December 8: “Ombre et Lumière” with pure Venezuelan (Sur Del Lago) chocolate mousse upon a chewy chocolate cookie base.

SourcePierre Hermé (125€ for 10/12 people)

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Bûche December 7: The “bûche drapée” has hazelnut dacquoise with both milk & dark chocolate mousse upon an almond cookie with cherry compote and raspberry gelée.

SourceJean-Paul Hévin (34€ for 6 people; 44€ for 8 people)

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Bûche December 6: Chestnut dacquoise with black current cream, chestnut paste & candied chestnuts

SourceDes Gateaux et du Pain (38€ for 4 people; 68€ for 8 people)

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Bûche December 5: “Voie Lactée” with hazelnut dacquoise, caramel & chocolate

SourceUn Dimanche à Paris (38€)

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Bûche December 4: “Infuzzz” with dark chocolate with chewy cookies and a compote with citrus and Bourbon vanilla

Source: Richart (30€ for 3/4 people; 40€ for 5/6 people)

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Bûche December 3: “Eclat d’or” with light marscapone cream, praline, chocolate rice krispies, & dark chocolate cream

Source: Dalloyau (72€ for 6 people)

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Bûche December 2: “Magie de Paris” with 22 carat gold covering the dark chocolate Paris monuments. The cake inside the cage is dark chocolate mousse with Bourbon vanilla cream, cherry compote and sacher cookie on a base of marzipan with cherry pulp.

Source: La Maison du Chocolat (119€ for 6-8 people)

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Bûche December 1: “Bûche Or Noir” with an almond cookie base, caramelized hazelnuts, buckwheat scented dark chocolate mousse and caramelized pecan & vanilla mousse.

Source: Café Pouchkine (49€ for 6 people)

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