It’s truffle season in Paris, and the knobby tubers are turning up on restaurant menus all over town. Most people, however, don’t know their Alba from their elbow, and can’t understand why a kilo of fungus might sell (at December’s Artcurial auction) for 1,913€. To broaden our knowledge about this luxe ingredient, we turned to truffle maven Patricia Wells, author of the new book Simply Truffles.